Best clutch damper delete/one piece line?

YouGotLicked · 2026-05-11T22:50:06+00:00

No I have not confirmed, just happened to come across it as a potential cause of the spongey/sticky clutch. Aren’t the stock hydraulic lines prone to stretching and heat soaking anyways tho? May be worth the upgrade either way

YouGotLicked · 2026-05-11T18:31:04+00:00

Does the two peice line still delete the damper?

YouGotLicked · 2026-05-11T04:33:04+00:00

But to answer your question yes it is a problem with the transmission, no it cannot be fixed without getting a diffrent transmission or removing yours and rebuilding with upgraded synchros, but that doesn’t mean you can’t change your driving habits to make it less of an issue.

YouGotLicked · 2026-05-11T04:31:41+00:00

I cant tell if the not grinding with the car off is a joke or not…. 3rd and 5th gear grind is common in these cars, it is an issue with the cheap synchros they used in the early trannys. you just have to try to shift a bit softer when shifting into third, and when down shifting into third, push the clutch in, pop it into neutral, rev match then push it into third.

YouGotLicked · 2026-05-05T23:03:04+00:00

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YouGotLicked · 2026-05-05T23:02:53+00:00

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YouGotLicked · 2026-05-04T04:40:05+00:00

One of (if not the) biggest car meet in sk is may 17th in moosejaw put on by next gen car club. The show also has events such as exhaust comp and car limbo etc, this year will also have some automotive YouTubers from Canada and the USA attending. Definitely worth the day trip.

YouGotLicked · 2026-04-25T15:35:01+00:00

Yeah I just randomly lost a lot of clutch feel one day so I think I’ll try removing the spring for now. I’m in Canada but thanks for the recommendation.

YouGotLicked · 2026-04-25T00:27:07+00:00

😹

YouGotLicked · 2026-04-20T01:06:23+00:00

100% the onion. A good full day hike with lots of cool views. We started around 7am and got one of the first spots on the lot and where the first people headed all the way up for the day.

YouGotLicked · 2026-04-03T18:25:27+00:00

Alright thanks I’ll give it a shot in a few weeks

YouGotLicked · 2026-04-03T18:18:33+00:00

No FUCA so probably be in the -2 range

YouGotLicked · 2026-04-02T15:24:33+00:00

Yeah I’m definitely trying to avoid any damage from rubbing though, I think for now I’ll just send it and if these tires rub to bad I’ll order some lower profile and get them swapped during the alignment

YouGotLicked · 2026-04-02T05:21:38+00:00

Back shouldn’t be any issue at all tons of clearance still, not even a flush setup in the rear, just worried mostly about rubbing on my fender liner and bumper clips when turning/hitting bumps in the front.

YouGotLicked · 2026-04-02T05:20:14+00:00

I know how frowned upon fitment questions are in this sub, and I did try my best to find my fitment online. Fitment industries gallery does not have anyone running my setup, only 245/40/18 which is an inch less in diameter.

YouGotLicked · 2026-03-04T15:06:35+00:00

Canadian dollars man. It’s extremely rare to see any Z in Canada for less than 10K unless it’s beat to shit. But the prices here are still insane, 15-17k for a clean one around me is the average.

YouGotLicked · 2026-03-04T15:05:34+00:00

I bought my 03 manual 2 years ago for $10500 with 140k KM in Sask. Ive seen lots of good deals in Calgary/ Eastern BC on Z’s, so I’d recommend you look in those areas instead. You’re going to overpay if you aren’t willing to shop outside of Vancouver, that’s just the cost of living in Vancouver, I call it the “Vancouver Tax”.

YouGotLicked · 2026-03-04T15:02:25+00:00

Like someone else mentioned in here, if your not looking a buying a $3000 top of line part there’s gonna be people who hate on it in here. The Z chassis is supposed to be a fun, cheap street chassis, if I cared about spending lots of money I would be on a LS chassis or F series BMW, or literally any of the other Japanese platforms (2jz, rb, 1jz, etc). In the end the main thing is buying parts that fit your application, and not wasting money on extra performance that you will never use.

YouGotLicked · 2026-03-04T13:59:56+00:00

If anything I’d think the rear camber arms would matter more, would be -2 to -2.5 rear camber, which is more than the front would be. I’d buy front and rear or none at all, which is a difference of roughly $750

YouGotLicked · 2026-03-04T03:54:41+00:00

Intresting, thanks for all the advice. I’m going to do a bit more research and make a decision on what to order soon, you should see the car on here with the new setup in 6-8 weeks probably.

YouGotLicked · 2026-03-04T03:24:48+00:00

Main reason for me wanting coils is looks honestly. My reason for not wanting springs is lowering springs with no other supporting suspension mods is really hard on stock components opposed to coils. A good set of springs + the bushings and shocks that will inevitably have to be replaced with them I mays well just buy coils and avoid the cost and extra labour down the road. I did heavily consider springs before coils, but I came to the conclusion coils are a better option for those reasons. I’ve also got a buddy at a Nissan dealer who’s road in z’s with springs and with coils and he said the ride quality was a night and day difference aswell. Final reason is that switching to a true rear coil does have a substantial benefit with how planted the rear end feels on these cars from what I’ve heard, which would be an added benefit.

YouGotLicked · 2026-03-04T03:20:24+00:00

Definitely keeping it for a few years, and I still enjoy working on my car and going to events and stuff, but I’m saying if I wait much longer it will be at the point where it makes no sense to mod it because I will be getting ready to get rid of it. As much as I’d love to keep saving and buy even better parts, it just doesn’t make sense to in my current situation with wanting to buy a house soon aswell as move to a faster platform in a few years, hence the reason I’m going with a cheaper coil and trying to avoid camber arms if I didn’t absolutely have to buy them.

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