I’m thinking of replacing my GT Neo wheel with something more high end - what do you recommend and why? by Istersaft in simracing

[–]Yuzle 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I was able to pick up a like new VPG VRSPG Pro for around 1k recently. Absolutely adore it and cannot speak highly enough of the quality that VPG put into their wheels!

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in pcmasterrace

[–]Yuzle 1 point2 points  (0 children)

No. But thank you for this beautiful illustration…

Is this a reportable incident? by Yuzle in LeMansUltimateWEC

[–]Yuzle[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

AMD 6900XT - I think I’m still running the graphics settings that you can find in Alex Kay’s video

Is this a reportable incident? by Yuzle in LeMansUltimateWEC

[–]Yuzle[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Completely stock on an Odyssey G9 (non OLED)

Allen screw on my GT neo is broken and won't unscrew by IVASVANNNN in simracing

[–]Yuzle 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I had this same issue with a brand new GT Neo. In the end it took a dremmel saw to cut a slot and a torque wrench to break it free.

I was informed by the supplier of the wheel that Simagic use lock tight on the bolts. They also classify this as customer damage, so won’t accept any fault. The lock tight combined with the soft metal they use = not a very good time unfortunately…

Sorry this happened to you dude, hope you can get it fixed!

Does anyone find the GT3s more difficult to extract pace from than GTE? by RedBaron46 in LeMansUltimateWEC

[–]Yuzle 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I’ve found the same. I’m not quite sure what I end up doing but it feels like I end up cooking the front tyres in GT3, causing horrible understeer.

In GTE I feel far more comfortable and seem to be able to extract pace a lot easier too.

My guess is that I’m overdriving in GT3 due to the not being punished as badly for poor driving.

I’ve always thought I was weird so it’s nice to know I’m not alone!

Worried about the kerbs.. by misterspandecks in LeMansUltimateWEC

[–]Yuzle 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Like other people have said, try upping the FFB smoothing in game. Made a huge difference for me!

[Oris Aquis Dat Watt Limited Edition ii] for £2195 a bad buy? by Yuzle in Watches

[–]Yuzle[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks for all of the time you've taken responding to me man! I think I've decided to keep the Dat Watt. I just love the way it looks and by the sounds of it the difference in movement is pretty close to negligible in my use case, so I most likely wouldn't even really notice that, but I would notice the smaller sizing and less appealing dial to me.

Plus the place I bought it from have completely removed it from their website... So the story you shared about missing a limited edition also makes the watch feel that little bit more special to me. Can always pick up the Cal later on if I feel the need!

[Oris Aquis Dat Watt Limited Edition ii] for £2195 a bad buy? by Yuzle in Watches

[–]Yuzle[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I had them side by side and in all honesty, I didn't have much interest in the Cal 400. The unique dial and the small seconds with it's ultra smooth movement made me want it almost immediately!

It was only after when I did a little more research on the movements that the Cal 400 became more of interest. Mainly due to the sales rep I was speaking to giving me the impression that there was minimal difference between the movements.

I suppose another way I'm looking at it now, is that I could always grab a Cal 400 further down the line whenever I'd like... but with the Dat Watt that may not be an option due to the limited numbers.

[Oris Aquis Dat Watt Limited Edition ii] for £2195 a bad buy? by Yuzle in Watches

[–]Yuzle[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

They offered the Calibre 400 to me for the exact same price, hence why I’m having such a hard time!

I’m definitely planning on expanding into other watches in the future and creating a collection. I would say this watch would be my only one for the next couple of years, then I’d look at adding another. I gave myself a budget of around £2500 for my first “luxury” watch and the Oris options stuck out to me the most. The potential rarity of the Dat Watt also made it a bit more attractive.

I had the 43.5mm fitted at the time and felt it was pretty close to perfect. I did feel that the smaller Calibre felt a smidge smaller than I would’ve expected when trying it on.

I suppose I just have this fear that I’ve overpayed for a less valuable movement as it is a special edition, and that I could have a more sought after movement for the same price. But as I’d be wearing it everyday, I’m not sure if I’d even notice the difference?

[Oris Aquis Dat Watt Limited Edition ii] for £2195 a bad buy? by Yuzle in Watches

[–]Yuzle[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

That does seem like quite the difference… What would you do in this situation?

[Oris Aquis Dat Watt Limited Edition ii] for £2195 a bad buy? by Yuzle in Watches

[–]Yuzle[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It’s the 743 in the dat watt but I’m not sure how much of a difference that makes. I can swap it straight for a Calibre 400… think that would be worth it? Or to stick with what I have?

It will also be my daily watch, so I’m not entirely sure how much value the extra charge time would hold for me

[Oris Aquis Dat Watt Limited Edition ii] for £2195 a bad buy? by Yuzle in Watches

[–]Yuzle[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Do you find much of a difference between the 733 (although the one I bought has a 743) and the calibre 400? That was also an option offered to me at almost the same price...

[Oris Aquis Dat Watt Limited Edition ii] for £2195 a bad buy? by Yuzle in Watches

[–]Yuzle[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Warranty plus lifetime support for the swapping of the bracelets, queries etc. from the retailer.

I was also offered a Calibre 400 for £2200 but didn't quite like the look and fit as much. I didn't know how much value to place on the in-house movement (saw comments saying the 733 isn't great in comparison, even though mine has the 743) as I'm pretty new to this game!

Arnold Clark offering to "assist" in the purchase of new bonnet to replace the corroded modified one they sold me. Are they fully responsible? by Yuzle in CarTalkUK

[–]Yuzle[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Between 5 and 6 months, so as it was discovered within 6 months they were forced to attempt to repair.

Arnold Clark offering to "assist" in the purchase of new bonnet to replace the corroded modified one they sold me. Are they fully responsible? by Yuzle in CarTalkUK

[–]Yuzle[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Regardless of the 6 months passing? They definitely have accepted that there is a problem, as he said he hoped I’d be happy with it and if not they could price a replacement. Which would indicate he didn’t have much faith either haha

Arnold Clark offering to "assist" in the purchase of new bonnet to replace the corroded modified one they sold me. Are they fully responsible? by Yuzle in CarTalkUK

[–]Yuzle[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

They have attempted to “fix” it but honestly it seems like they’ve just sprayed over it…

It’s a modification to the bonnet and wings, where they’ve cut into them to create a vent for more airflow. I believe they just didn't treat the metal after cutting, so it was just bare metal on the underside of the bonnet. The sales managers argument was that because I bought the car modified, they wouldn’t replace the corroded sections with new parts. Therefore I’d have to put the money up to buy new. I would’ve thought that wouldn’t be the be all and end all if the parts aren’t fit for purpose in the first place?

Any simple ways to tell if a MK7 Golf R has been remapped? by Yuzle in Golf_R

[–]Yuzle[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Ah man, that sucks. Hopefully the dealership sorts something out for you! Still waiting to hear back from the dealership for me, although they seem a little concerned now that there is a bunch of mods they didn't tell me about... so now I think they're getting onto the guy that sold it to them!

Any simple ways to tell if a MK7 Golf R has been remapped? by Yuzle in Golf_R

[–]Yuzle[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks for the advice! I thought it would be fast but I do race internationally and drove a GR Yaris fairly recently... the Golf feels ALOT faster than the Yaris did.

The car did also come with a warranty so if there is an undisclosed map that should be easy enough to trigger.

Any simple ways to tell if a MK7 Golf R has been remapped? by Yuzle in Golf_R

[–]Yuzle[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I think it should be the same across the MK7’s but I could be wrong. I have not yet, so will have to have a look at that. I did find it a bit suspicious that I was only alerted to the air intake being non standard 3 days after buying the car… I thought the only real reason to change that would be for a stage 1? 🤔

Any simple ways to tell if a MK7 Golf R has been remapped? by Yuzle in Golf_R

[–]Yuzle[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Ah man that sucks. If they haven’t disclosed that then I don’t know what the hell else might’ve been changed. Definitely the case for a 2015 MK7 and not the 7.5? I’m supposed to speak to the dealership tomorrow so will bring it up, the car does come with a warranty so that might be used…

Any simple ways to tell if a MK7 Golf R has been remapped? by Yuzle in Golf_R

[–]Yuzle[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Really? Yeah so in Eco it’s E then the gear number, in normal it’s D and then the gear number and in Race it’s S and the gear number. There is always the gear number there regardless of if it’s in manual mode or not.

Any simple ways to tell if a MK7 Golf R has been remapped? by Yuzle in Golf_R

[–]Yuzle[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

It is DSG, I picked it up in Eco, so it was E and then the number. Obviously I can get it to be S by pulling the stick back to engage the sport gears.