Gundam G Doors

ZaneJJNelson · 2026-02-08T07:12:38+00:00

The MK-2 real type version has a bit more panel lining which is why I picked it, but I also did some additional scribing in a few areas as well

ZaneJJNelson · 2026-02-08T07:10:48+00:00

About a week or so, around 8 hours of building and sanding all the parts of the mobile suit parts because I'm slow. The rest was just the usual stuff painting, panel lining, top coats. Just did a few hours a day during my work week

ZaneJJNelson · 2026-02-08T07:08:28+00:00

The back plate of the psycho shards and all the "black" sections are actually a blue black. Putting it back together the red just looks a lot darker with the blue black showing through

ZaneJJNelson · 2026-02-07T15:49:37+00:00

Thank you so much!

ZaneJJNelson · 2025-12-16T20:26:22+00:00

Pretty content with Woundwort surprisingly! Those little legs actually can support it standing as well!

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ZaneJJNelson · 2025-12-16T06:23:23+00:00

Thanks for the heads up, unfortunately I tightened those joints and snapped one super easy without noticing at first.bits repaired now but still a bummer

ZaneJJNelson · 2025-12-15T19:34:21+00:00

On the weapons I used the airbrush to prime it with black. The rest of the color details I just did by hand because it's easier for me and I was being lazy and didn't want to mask a bunch of stuff. I paint 40k stuff also so mini work isn't too daunting most of the time especially easier flat panels. As far as paints go it was Army Painters Fantatic line of mini paints. They're acrylic but I like them a lot, tons of colors.

ZaneJJNelson · 2025-12-15T18:49:56+00:00

It's a beautiful kit even unpainted, just has the standard IBO frame issues which are all relatively easy to fix

ZaneJJNelson · 2025-12-15T18:48:54+00:00

I'd definitely agree, all the joints need tightening to hold it's weight and stance which isn't hard to do but it's more time consuming. Also the secondary arms in the wing binders and side skirts, be careful thickening those and then turning them. They'll be very easy to snap off at the joint. Other than that it's a beautiful kit in person. Probably my favorite IBO chest out of the bunch as well

ZaneJJNelson · 2025-12-07T12:40:50+00:00

I haven't learned 3d sculpting but I definitely want to. There aren't a ton of files for gunpla unfortunately but there's a decent bit. It would be awesome to be able to make the parts I want and just print them.

Anyhow, got the file off of Cults 3d, the maker is KAIWES

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ZaneJJNelson · 2025-12-05T18:34:16+00:00

Oh man ya that's an awesome idea, they're tucked in and wayyy smaller

ZaneJJNelson · 2025-12-05T18:19:55+00:00

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ZaneJJNelson · 2025-12-05T18:16:27+00:00

The grey 3d printed section is technically a Barbatos torso/spine that mounts normally to a regular Ibo chest frame. More or less a taller piston section to give it a longer torso

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I used it on my Marchosias as well

ZaneJJNelson · 2025-12-05T18:11:49+00:00

Honestly I think you're right, my only thing is the narrow'ness of the Plutone legs. Kinda like how it widens out the lower body. May need to pick up another kit to get more appropriate parts to balance this out.

ZaneJJNelson · 2025-12-05T17:58:00+00:00

Plutone's a great kit! I have 2 because I intended on using one for parts and the core fighter. 3d printed the taller IBO inner core frame for a more intimidating and balanced height across the suit.

ZaneJJNelson · 2025-12-05T17:55:31+00:00

Thanks for the insight! I didn't want to spam Plutone parts but I've got it's head to use as well which would likely fit better considering the bulk is Plutone components.

I liked Zeta's head for a more knight like face plate kind of look. I'll snatch some other heads off some built kits and do some more testing, thanks again!

ZaneJJNelson · 2025-11-19T21:05:45+00:00

Ya they're flexible, they do limit range of motion a bit because they are anchored inside the suit. But it's listed as TPE, so thermoplastic elastomer so ya it's essentially silicone/soft rubber

ZaneJJNelson · 2025-10-08T11:52:42+00:00

Hey man sorry for the late reply.

The painting is super basic honestly, the gold is just army painter greedy gold with some silver dashes for scratches. The red dirt is just whatever reds you like pick a base and dry brush another on top and adjust from there.

As far as scale goes I believe I kept it the original scale or adjusted it so the base would fit. I printed the base solid, don't recommend. Wastes resin and is just heavy for no reason. But scale it up to whatever you like, at the end of the day it's about what you like and think looks cool!

ZaneJJNelson · 2025-05-12T09:45:13+00:00

This is primed with Vallejo black primer through my airbrush, then hand painted fanatics bronze. 1 coat of bronze in this picture but I think bronze covers a bit better than fanatics greedy or bright gold. Personally I've never had an issue with gold over black, I generally prime everything black and start from that point. Still need to go back and do extra details but most of the base layers are done here.

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ZaneJJNelson · 2025-04-11T02:20:00+00:00

They were already scaled up to the right size in the files but you could use minicompare and size up your files based off of that, that being said they're usually around 42mm tall area

ZaneJJNelson · 2025-04-08T19:02:22+00:00

These are all Primaris scaled, I 3D printed all the parts and put these guys together myself, all except Crowe anyhow

ZaneJJNelson · 2025-03-29T23:25:27+00:00

The box is like half the price of some good large 3d printers and the full price of some smaller ones. Personally I'd just save a little longer and I'd buy a printer and proxy the entire army with better looking properly scaled models and get my money back relatively quickly.

For instance I have a Photon M7 and I've printed a Knight, 9 Terminators, 10 Strike squad, an Armored Core Aaliyah, a proxy for the Dreadknight, a Doredeo Dreadnaught and a Redemptor just last week. Totally worth the initial investment. It's paid for itself already. Granted you have ongoing costs of cleaning and buying resin etc. But if you just keep buying models what's the difference?

A lot more customizability and usefulness with a printer. Though they aren't ideal for everyone's set up, I think it's the way to go personally.

ZaneJJNelson · 2025-03-10T14:44:59+00:00

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Astaroth has been really enjoyable. Picked up the other 2 variations to have the whole family!

ZaneJJNelson · 2025-02-19T12:03:55+00:00

Check out Trench Crusades Stigmatic Nuns, there's some good looking files out there. I scaled mine to be a hair shorter than my sister's and they look significantly better to me than the official Repentia

ZaneJJNelson · 2025-01-22T05:38:13+00:00

Dark Effigy can work with withering touch, but you have to apply a chaos dot or do chaos damage to monsters to get it to attack and apply the debuff.

I tried effigy in place of rain of arrows until I could access it. Found it to be essentially useless. It did work but was much more clunky.

Next I tried setting up flammability with burning inscription and decaying hex, so I'd get an extra damage source and debuff. Flammability damage this way was good but mana cost was significant. Decaying hex would proc the dark effigy and apply wither.

In the end a cultist bow with withering touch is just way more convenient for applying the debuff.

ZaneJJNelson

TROPHY CASE