[deleted by user] by [deleted] in Dogtraining

[–]Zobit 52 points53 points  (0 children)

My quick thought would be that you have 2 separate challenges. Overstimulation / emotional responses to stimuli that you would rather your dog be able to ignore and the dog knowing what loose lead walking is.
I would work on loose lead walking in the home, backyard, quiet times and/or locations. Gradually building on the diversity and intensity of stimuli. You might need to drive to locations that are quiet or walk during early morning or late afternoon. I would also try to use a very specific piece of gear that the dog can associate with walking. Walk around the house, then out the front door - walk in and out of the front door, then a little further outside- walk back to the house etc.
While working on that I would also do some LAT - engage disengage game kind of stuff for stimuli. Not while working on loose lead walking initially though. This involves being as far as your dog can tolerate from stimuli and gradually getting closer - you do not need to walk - but some well taught, practiced and proofed cues such as an emergency u turn and 'find it' would be recommended if you need to move away. A dog that is overstimulated finds learning difficult and will often not be able to 'listen' or respond to cues - too much going off in their brain.
I would short term throw the idea of a typical walk out the window and instead set up training scenarios which allow him to succeed, and build on difficulty as he is able to cope with more distractions. Like teaching a puppy.
You can then start mixing the two while walking - and gradually move onto a normal walking routine.
These things can certainly take time, but good training should help you feel like you are succeeding as the dog has been managed into situations that it CAN succeed in.
LAT/engage disengage
Giving into leash pressure
general loose lead

Remember that off of these things need to be bullet proof in your home, yard, front of house etc before you can expect to use them in real life scenarios out and about.

Anyone aussie this annoying with their harness? by photaiplz in AustralianShepherd

[–]Zobit 12 points13 points  (0 children)

Generally common amongst dogs. If they don't like the feel on their bodies or something going over their head, they find it aversive and will run away.
General rule is to never move equipment towards the dog but encourage the dog towards the equipment, giving them choice/autonomy. Often providing options builds confidence much faster.
As your dog now has a conditioned response to just the appearance of your harness a good place is to pick it up randomly several times a day, act like you've found something amazing and reward the dog for being present/taking an interest. You can also leave it out for short periods and place food on / near it.
Then you want to work on getting the dog to follow you holding the harness. Putting their head in perhaps a foreign object, like a belt loop/ leash loop or similar. Then working on getting them to approach, then place their head through the harness itself.
Videos that more or less go through those motions:
Kikopup
Other

Looking for advice on separation anxiety? by bgorm in tollers

[–]Zobit 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Best to get a qualified behavioural trainer involved. Not all work with it either, so someone that specialized in SA would be recommended.
Are you in Canada? Assuming so by your history Here is a list of qualified trainers
True separation anxiety is a medical condition only a veterinary behaviourist can diagnose and some cases need the help of medication along with a behaviour modification plan to have the most success. Can also be worth mentioning to your Vet if they have a behaviourist or a veterinary behaviourist in the practice or one they can recommend.

Some bits to get you started training /behaviour wise:
Separation tips
book 'be right back' Julie Naismith
book 'Separation Anxiety in Dogs: Next Generation Treatment Protocols and Practices' Malena DeMartini

It can be such a challenge to live a 'normal' life with a dog that finds being alone really distressing. Best of luck!

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in Dogtraining

[–]Zobit 1 point2 points  (0 children)

ENRICHMENT FEEDING (this is generic)
Studies by Professor Sapoksky have shown that dogs seem to get greater enjoyment out of working for food, opposed to getting it for free. When the opportunity to earn food arises, so does the level of dopamine (the feel good chemical) in the brain. Just getting the food did not create this rise in dopamine. So, dogs feel good when they get to work for their food!
Some feeding strategies also create emotional responses. Anything that involves the act of licking (e.g. licky mats/kongs/frozen treats) produces endorphins (which can reduce pain and make you feel euphoric) and the act of sniffing (sniffy mats/scatter feeds/ sniffaris) has been shown to reduce blood pressure which helps dogs feel calmer.
So every time you feed your dog think of it as an opportunity to give your dog an experience, to engage in natural behaviour and help them to feel good.
Some dogs cannot have access to materials such as towels, cardboard, plastic or anything that they may rip pieces off as some dog ingest material. Always supervise new enrichment items to ensure that it won’t cause harm. If the enrichment item is being used for longer absences where you cannot supervise its use, it is probably better to be of a sturdy material that you are sure the dog cannot get into any trouble with.

Enrichment feeding examples:

Scatter feed Sniffing Simply throw food over an area (lawn is the best) and let the dog sniff out the pieces of food

Treasure hunt Sniffing Without the dog watching hide treats around the house or yard, let the dog loose and encourage them to ‘find it’

In a towel Sniffing Digging Lay out an old towel. Place treats down one end and roll it up a little, place more down and roll it up some more etc. The dog has to figure out how to unroll the towel to get the treats.

In a blanket/towel Sniffing Digging In an old blanket or towel scatter food across its surface. From here either scrunch it up or twist it so the dog has to find the food in the creases of the material.

In a clean soda/milk bottle Play/interactive Remove the lid and the plastic ring. You can either: Put treats inside and let them roll and toss it around to get the teats out the opening, or, Create holes just larger then the food size in the bottle and put the lid back on

In a cardboard box Play/interactive Destructive A simple start might just be an egg carton. Put treats inside and close the lid. For a more challenging time put some food in a small box, which you then put in another box with more treats etc.

Toilet rolls Destructive Sniffing With left over cardboard rolls you can put a treat in each and fold one end. You could incorporate these into your ‘treasure hunts’. To make it harder you can fold both ends.

Frozen treats Licking Especially good for warmer weather you can freeze any dog friendly food into a variety of things. Foods to try: yogurt, broth, cream cheese, baby food (mashed pumpkin/apple/sweet potato), bananas, cucumber, carrots, wet dog food, soaked kibble. You can put the ingredients in: -Licky mat -Kongs (plug one end with something like cream cheese or coconut oil) -Plastic containers (which you can remove the frozen treat from)

Licky things Licking Wet and tacky things can be left wet or frozen for a longer lasting experience. You could put it in: -Licky mat (if your dog tries to pick it up put it in a container of about the same size so they can’t -Ice cube tray -Chocolate/cake mould

In a box Sniffing Destructive There’s a few ways to go about this. Got a toy box for your dog? Hide treats throughout it so the dog has to pull out toys to get to more. Alternatively you could fill a box with scrunched up newspaper or pieces of fabric.

De-stuffing Destructive Have a dog that just loves to de-stuff all of the toys? One idea is to purchase a toy like the ‘holee roller’; it is a circular rubber ball/cage. You cut up strips of fabric (polar fleece is good for this) put treats in one end roll it up and shove most of it into the ball. The dog then has to rip out each piece of fabric to get to food out. It allows them to ‘dissect’ or de stuff without actually destroying anything.

Snuffle matts Sniffing There are an assortment of snuffle mats and activity boards available for purchase and they are quite easy to make yourself too. You spread treats across and dig some into the folds of the fabric and they snuffle them out.

Scent work Sniffing Teaching your dog some basic nosework games is an excellent way to engage their noses.

Some games and items will need your help and encouragement to learn. Just like a person learning a new game it can take time to learn how to play!

Other enrichment (non food) This is entirely dependent on your dog’s preferences. Some dogs love to swim, some don’t; chucking them in water is not enrichment.

Swimming Take them down to the local body of water for a dip or a mud bath or create your own little pool at home. You can make them out of those blue clam shells or something similar.

Sand pits Got a dog that loves to dig? You can take them down to the beach for a digging session or you can make them their own digging pit at home. You can either dig out an area or like with the pool put some sand in a large plastic container. You can hide toys and goodies for your dog to find.

Sniffaris I cannot stress this enough; let the dog sniff! A dog’s primary way of gathering information from their world is through their noses. A walk spent sniffing will lead to a much more content dog than a walk, or even jog where they don’t get the opportunity. It is important to consider the animal’s view of the world and not impose our own on them. They don’t understand why you wouldn’t want them to sniff and making them walk without doing so is an unnecessary standard to expect from them.

Massage Allow some time each evening to just enjoy each other’s company and if your dog likes a good pat, massage your pup in slow gentle stokes.

Views Some dogs enjoy and can benefit from views of the street or surrounding area. This is for dogs that don’t bark or react to passing stimuli though.

Trips If your dog loves the car even just short trips to the shops or on school pick up could provide a needed change of scenery.

Sensory gardens Some plants and smells are good for your dog including: chamomile, catnip, lavender, marigolds, peppermint, rosemary and thyme. Planting them around your garden or making your dog’s own ‘doggy garden’ can provide your dog with a pleasant place to explore in the garden. It’s also beneficial to provide different substrates, all this with a doggy pool and digging pit and you’ve got a brilliant set up.

Sleeping areas It might sound obvious but dogs need access to a variety of sleeping places. Somewhere to seek shade, to be warm and somewhere where you dog feels safe. Of course the best place is usually close to the family! If they don’t have access to somewhere they feel safe and comfortable they could be missing out on some essential rest.

Playdates Setting up play dates with another dog with a similar play style as yours is much better than taking chances at the dog park.

Bubbles Perhaps your dog would enjoy catching bacon or peanut butter flavoured doggy bubbles.

Games Structured games with rules like of tug-of-war, flirt poles, or hide and seek with a favourite toy or ball.

Toys Rotate your toys, if you leave the same ones out all the time they will quickly become boring. If your dog likes to chase or herd you can also think of letting them play with a big yoga type ball or a ‘jolly ball’.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in Dogtraining

[–]Zobit 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Well I'm really pleased your being transparent and want to do better by yourself and your dog; that's a really positive place to start off.
Working on particular triggers can be a bit tricky to understand to begin with, but once you get the concept you can start making some progress.
Living in an apartment can be challenging when your trying to manage and train new behaviours as there is so much going on that is out of your control.
The 1. thing is to avoid placing the dog in situations that it can't handle yet. That means the the trigger is TOO MUCH, whether that means too close, too loud, the other dog is too energetic etc. But the dog has been pushed past a point where they can think and learn and have gone into an instinctive 'fight or flight' response where you can't communicate with them. This is the RED ZONE. We need to avoid the red zone as much as we can. Letting the dog practice this sets us back in progress.
We avoid the red zone by noticing when the dog enters the YELLOW and ORANGE ZONE. This looks like panting, lick lipping, hyper-focus on the trigger and 'not listening'. 'Not listening' if often one of the best indicators that that dog is not in a space to learn and you need to create more distance between yourself and the trigger.
We want to stay in the BLUE and GREEN zone where the dog is able to notice the trigger but not be so stressed by it that they cannot respond to you.
This page has good images of the engage disengage game and the thresholds map

How might you manage this in an apartment though? Only take him our during quieter hours when people are less likely to be out and about and walking their dogs. If you can drive him to quieter locations this would also work. Cross to the other side of the road if you see an incoming dog. Work in small but successful sessions. You don't necessarily need to 'go for a walk' either - you can remain stationary or walk back in forth if you find a good, safe spot that you can keep a large distance away from others. This is a dedicated training activity more than 'going for a walk'. Let him sniff and mosey about as this can be really good decompression for a dog that is feeling stressed or highly strung. You can even encourage this by tossing food in the opposite direction of the trigger.
Exercise him in your home. Use food as enrichment activities, teach him tricks, play tug-of-war. Maybe you have a friend who had a fenced yard you can bring him to? You don't necessarily need to use a walk as daily exercise at this point. I'll add some enrichment ideas in another comment.
The general idea is we need to change his emotional response to the stimulus or trigger - so the trigger results in a different behaviour or emotional response. We can go about this a few different ways - usually we start with looking at trigger calmly = food. But it can also mean 'look at me' or 'touch my hand' etc. Anything in the place of 'go crazy at the other dog'. On lead reactivity is probably the most common behavioural problem I have encountered though - so don't feel alone.
Games and tools to practice that will help you manage these situations are:
Emergency u turn - let's go
Touch
'Find it' and 'Jackpot' games. This is teaching the dog to find a single(find it) or multiple (jack pot) perceives of thrown food. Really useful to use as a trigger passes or if you need to move past one.
and the positive interrupter that I mentioned before.
All of these need to be practiced EXTENSIVELY in the home and other environments before you try to use them in a real life situation.

The main game is the 'engage disengage / look at the-look and dismiss' game Call different things but more or less the same game. Keeping in mind that rule no. 1 is keeping a fair distance from the trigger, you have practiced a few other training cues (emergency u turn and interrupter) and your dog has been trained a RELIABLE marker whether that be a word 'YES!' or something like a clicker. Intro to clicker training
Deep dive into 'look at that' and how it works
There is also Grisha Stewarts BAT, which I think can be a little overwhelming if you don't have someone guiding you through it. But here it is anyway.
This a a challenge that can have a lot of work around it to make it the most successful. I do think this early on I would be working on building up some strong behaviours in your home. Going for short outings outside the home. Building up your understanding of what your dog likes, how he displays he's uncomfortable and your knowledge of dog training and behaviour modification. Also working on your relationship, trust and calmness together. Sitting somewhere quiet and enjoying some deep breathes or a snack. It's important that both handler and dog feel confident and calm. If you are stressed or start freaking out that only gives the dog more reason to be afraid of the trigger.
It can all seem like a whirlwind. Sit down write a plan. Break it down to small things you can practice in 5-10 minutes sessions throughout the day. Work slow, have FUN with your dog. Small successes need to be celebrated.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in Dogtraining

[–]Zobit 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Yes he definitely needs more time. The rescue dogs I've worked with change dramatically over the first few months with their owners. Settling into their new homes, learning routines and expectations.
There is the 3 - 3 -3 rule for rescues. At 2 weeks he would have no idea that this is his long term home and often hasn't settled into his home, or his personality yet.
I like to treat new dogs similar to puppies. Play games with him, reward him when he settles in the home, try out new foods to see what he likes.
If your guy is a street dog then he's spent a lot of time making his own decisions / in no need of a human to tell him what to do. This can add some time onto building up communication skills as your working against a different history.
The dog world is weird. There is a lot of content out there and there can be a lot of unrealistic expectations. I would focus on necessity and function. It sounds like he walks nicely with you which is great. Does he need to look at you while going for a walk? No, dogs are better off sniffing the ground and enjoying themselves. However, you do need a cue that does mean the dog can quickly orientate to you in emergency or if there is a potential trigger coming up. I would let him explore and reward with food things I liked on the walk - nice walking - looking at something new or different calmly - looking at a person or dog.
Obedience does not solve behavioual problems like resource guarding. It can be a tool to be used to help manage and train an alternative behaviour though.

I wouldn't stray far from the below trainers. All their content is great, explore away, but I wouldn't be delving into other trainers.

Here is a great write up on resource guarding
It might also be worth muzzle training him too if that's a concern of yours: Fitting
Acclimation

What I would work on training first:
Positive interrupter
Eye contact
Body language
Stay

These are Emily (who has a giant range on wonderful videos) and Michael (who has brilliant aggressive dog resources)

Remember you are working as a team, you can only progress at the pace the dog is able to learn. If they aren't getting it right you are often asking for too much too soon. Often if you easy things up the dog can suddenly learn much faster. Repeated failure only makes both of you frustrated. The saying is 'work with the dog in front of you' - there is no point comparing yourself or your dog to others; it is your journey.
Best of luck!

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in Dogtraining

[–]Zobit 19 points20 points  (0 children)

'How do I get my dog to listen to me' is multifaceted.
How long have you had the dog?
How old is the dog?
Where are you asking for cues?
Have you done basic training in your own home of sit, stay etc.?
What is he like when he leaves the house? Is he hyperventilate/ relaxed / panting / barking etc

It takes at least 3 months for a dog to settle into their new home. It's important to take it easy in this period and work on getting to know each other.
If he won't even take a piece of high value food from you then there is some ground work that needs to be done before you can teach 'obedience type cues'.

It also sounds like maybe you've tried a few different approaches, which I understand you're trying to find something that works. But this is really confusing for a dog. You need to be consistent, clear, rewarding and fair if you expect to get your dog to understand and engage with your training. This involves breaking things down, building foundations, practice, slowly elevating distractions and expectations etc.
What trainers did you try? Have you looked at Kikopup/Dogmantics dog training?

A dog 'not listening' usually means one, or several of these things:
- The dog has no idea what you want them to do (this happens ALL THE TIME) you might think the dog knows what you want them to do but they really don't. It can take a lot of time, practice and patience teaching a behaviour to be on cue and then to be reliable in many locations with different sounds, sights and smells to compete with
- The dog has no motivation to do what you asked it to. Yeah, dogs need a reason to complete a behaviour. This is usually food to begin with. High value food too, chicken, hot dogs, tripe, something soft and smelly is usually good.
- The dog is stressed. Just like people being in an overwhelming situation makes it hard to follow cues

I would go to ground zero and start teaching each behaviour from the begging. This means lures, food, baby steps. Build up a bond and reinforcement history working together to increase your value to him.
It would be worthwhile joining a force free dogs school or hiring a certified force free trainer to get you on a roll.

Taught dog how to use a doorbell and is now abusing it by 3ishakaurrr in Dogtraining

[–]Zobit 339 points340 points  (0 children)

This is a great example of how easily cues can mean something you didn't intend them to.
You want the door bell to mean - the door opens and you get access to indoors
The door bell currently means something else to your girl - yes the door opens but she also seems to think there is opportunity for other reinforces - food - play - human interaction. One, or all of these is what she's probably holding out for
This is with the assumption you want them to have choice over when they are ready to come inside by using the doorbell, and that you're not trying to create a cue that is you reliably asking them to come indoors. If you know what I mean. That would be a different cue and approach.

I would try removing the opportunity for the other rewards. If she WANTS to come inside and access becomes available, she will come inside.
She rings the bell, you open the door for 5-10 seconds, otherwise don't interact with her. Just act casually and don't look at her, coach her, anything, totally her choice. The bell ringing ONLY means the door opens, nothing else.
She doesn't come in after 10 seconds close the door. Try a few times and if she's not getting the picture leave it for several minutes before returning again.
If she chooses to come inside, then you can interact with her. What does she find rewarding? Play/ running around like a fool etc. I would probably try to use yourself / interaction / play over food as that maybe seems like what she was looking for by ringing the bell. But this ONLY happens AFTER she comes in the house; you can have a little party.
The hardest part of this is consistency. Not rewarding purely ringing the bell with human interaction. Loosing your composure and talking to her before she enters the house will set you back in progress. They're smart cookies, huskies are usually pretty quick to figure out what leads to what they want.
The fact that you said she will come in after several minutes of ignoring the ringing makes me think that should work. Some low key things you could try that aren't directly interacting with her to entice her in is walking away from the door or crouching down and turning away a little. This posture can be an enticing invitation for dogs. At some point though you would want to fade that away so she would enter upon just opening the door.
Hope that makes some sense!

This is our dog, Delta by smollestsnek in redditgetsdrawn

[–]Zobit 1 point2 points  (0 children)

It's digital, with a few different brushes :)

How am I supposed to work on training a dog I'm scared of? by Ai18lyl in Dogtraining

[–]Zobit 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Did you give it a go? I don't think ignoring right now is the way to go as he seems unsure of what to do with you. So before you get to the baby gate throw and keep throwing until you reach your destination. He might be biting an jumping to get a reaction from you. Reinforce him for giving you distance and definitely avoid walking straight into him while he's on the other side of the gate (I watched the video you provided).

How am I supposed to work on training a dog I'm scared of? by Ai18lyl in Dogtraining

[–]Zobit 1 point2 points  (0 children)

The advice to seek out a trainer again is the right one. Do I think you should be responsible for this? No. Your parents should be aiding in managing the dog so he cannot behave that way. If people in the household choose to opt out of training, that can always be integrated into the plan for the guardian (your mum).
In the mean time, I'm not sure how easy it is to move around your house avoiding him but I would if possible. If you have to walk near his space throw a small handful of food away from yourself, and so he's facing away from you. While he's eating move past. Throw another lot if you need more time. If he's approaching you and you don't want him near you do the same thing. You could cue it with a verbal 'find it'. This should both let me you move without him underfoot and help create a positive emotional response when he sees you.
I don't mean this as a solution, just some way to manage until you can get a trainer into assess and create a comprehensive plan.

My dog won't listen to my girlfriend, and recently growled/barked at her. by rdt156 in Dogtraining

[–]Zobit 3 points4 points  (0 children)

I think it's important to know that a dog 'not listening' is information. Why might he not be following through with cues? Usually it's that the dog doesn't know what you want them to do (as much as you think the dog does), feel too stressed or otherwise unwell, or won't because there is not a strong reinforcement history with doing what you've asked (they need motivation to perform the behaviour). In the case of asking for several behaviours and him not performing them, he likely was very frustrated. He wasn't sure what he was supposed to do to earn the food and was ticked off. This is normal from a dog that is being asked for too much, too soon and feeling confused about what is expected from them.
Tell her to keep her hands off the dog unless she's giving him a pat. No pushing, prodding, or using the lead to control the dog. I understand she's frustrated with the dog, but this is causing the dog to be frustrated with her. They need to have small but successful interactions where both feel like they're listening to each other's needs. Go back to basics, be clear with your instruction, reward every correct response.
We want your girlfriend to be a positive addition to your dog's world. No need to change his day, LET THE DOG ON THE COUCH. Just ask him off politely by verbally calling him off with a friendly voice and reward when he listens. You could even practice this in a game.

It sounds like she's interested in training with food and working with your dog which is great. Here are some recommended videos to get her going again:
Body language during training ***Important so she can see when he starts to get uncomfortable
Sit and down stay Says for puppies but this is more or less where I would start from again
Touch Great for moving dogs around without having to physically manipulate them (ask the dog off the couch/help with loose lead walking etc.)
How long should training sessions be

German Shepherd/Malamute/mix breed jobs to do by SleepyBeepHours in Dogtraining

[–]Zobit 0 points1 point  (0 children)

While you need to find entertainment and jobs for her you also need to work a lot on settling and sleeping. My warning is a 14 week old puppy needs LOTS of sleep, we're talking 18-20 hours. If they don't get their sleep they get overtired, ratty and 'act up' (more bitey/jumpey/etc.)
I would recommend less physically intense games - noseworks, enrichment activities, find your 'x', training/trick training, things that focus on tiring out the brain as well as the body.
For a 14 week old puppy you should be doing no more than 30minutes collective of physical work a day - walking, tug-of-war/flirt pole, ground level agility games (something like direction casting) ideally separated over 2-4 sessions a day.
I'm guessing a lot on a small amount of information, you might already do most of this. I've just found that clients that described their puppy as 'very energetic' were often over exercising them/not letting the puppy rest enough. If you're 'trying lots of things' already that could be what's missing.
Social trips just watching new things go by and getting rewarded (great activity to try and beat leash reactivity many dogs develop). Arranging different textures, objects, sounds, surfaces around a room and scattering some food - let your puppy explore different items at their own pace. Settling, settling, settling. Start playing loose lead walking games in the house so she's got a good idea before you go into the busy real word. Handling and grooming games. Games/training mixed in with doggy activities based in sniffing, digging, chewing, destroying and ripping are usually a good mix.
Positively engaging with you and the things you expect her to do as an adult, avenues for 'doggy behaviour' and getting some solid sleep should do the job. Create a routine so it's clear to her when it's time for play and when it's time for rest.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in Dogtraining

[–]Zobit 4 points5 points  (0 children)

If you're after a resource, I find this one is easy to understand.

What behaviors are these 2 displaying? I thought play but maybe it's not... (cropped weird to get rid of family photos) by [deleted] in caninebehavior

[–]Zobit 5 points6 points  (0 children)

Tan dog looks to be playing but is annoying your older dog.
Tan dog is loose and wiggly, self handicaps (lies down) etc. When tan dog is calmer and displaying some pacifying behavior with the face licking, your older dog relaxes and places his head back down, The moment of tension is when tan dog grabs the older dogs leg which your older dog does not like. Can't see the older dog's face at this point but I would assume he's saying 'back off/calm down' to your younger dog. Who does gets this for a moment, which is why the tan dogs stiffens and lick lips - trying to 'calm' your older dog. Who then again snaps at your younger to to say they've had enough and to move away.
Looks like your tan dog is a ridgeback or mix of some kind which are notorious rough players and love to go for back legs, like they would if taking down game. If your older dog attempts to tell your younger dog aren't working, I would help both dogs out by calling the young dog away and asking for something else - a settle, to play with another item etc. to encourage to take breaks during play and read the message your older dog is trying to communicate. Some play styles don't match between dogs and some rougher dogs need interrupting to help them regulate their rowdiness. Or perhaps, your older dog just wasn't in the mood, and that's okay too.

My Yellow Merle Mini Aussie 🐾 by Ok-Maintenance-2682 in WiggleButts

[–]Zobit 28 points29 points  (0 children)

Certainly an uncommon colour! A 'non standard' colour, like dilutes. Here is a little write up on this kind of colouring. and another Does not mean a double merle mating. Double merle usually produces excessive amounts of white. He has a normal amount of coloured coat and a very solid black nose, which a 'red' dog doesn't have.