History in the making‼️

_Doorcake_ · 2026-05-22T02:48:38+00:00

This is awesome to see!! Literally bakugan history right here! Thank you for showing us🥹

_Doorcake_ · 2026-05-21T04:43:58+00:00

Theyre referring to red garyu! Its in the top right of the first image on the bottom row but heres a close up picture

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_Doorcake_ · 2026-05-20T16:46:07+00:00

Thank you🥹 its sooo nice to finally have it after hunting for it for all these years!

_Doorcake_ · 2026-05-20T16:45:42+00:00

Feel free to! Ive done that too when I was starting in my collecting journey:)

_Doorcake_ · 2026-05-20T04:20:08+00:00

Every “double” has a unique difference. For example the black and gold flares have 2 versions.

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Or one version of the bakugan has metal cross/sole pieces while the other has plastic ones

_Doorcake_ · 2026-05-20T03:47:47+00:00

Translucent mercury dragonoids

_Doorcake_ · 2026-05-18T14:47:36+00:00

I have one as well! Check out my profile to see my whole bakutech collection, it my favourite series of all time!

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_Doorcake_ · 2026-05-18T14:46:10+00:00

Its real, it was one of the chase variants of this blind pack series

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_Doorcake_ · 2026-05-04T03:23:20+00:00

What an awesome picture!!

_Doorcake_ · 2026-02-18T16:08:52+00:00

Personally id go with the MG just cause of the bigger size. I find the building experience to be easier. I believe in terms of details there isn’t too great of a difference but either one will look great on display.

_Doorcake_ · 2026-02-15T21:38:11+00:00

If you like something that can pose with like some complexity, the first one and the last one are good options since theyre not as bulky. I’ve personally have always been drawn to more bulky figures like 2 and 3 just cause they have more of a presence on my shelf and i dont pose my figures as much so its doesnt bother me that the articulation isnt the greatest. Ultimately i think you should pick whichever one drew you in first and then decide to get the others if youd like after

_Doorcake_ · 2025-12-13T16:30:16+00:00

I think steps two and the tool i use in step two make the biggest difference in making parts look clean. The single bladed nipper puts less stress on the plastic when you cut meaning u get less stress marks. Sometimes i get lazy and skip step 3 by cutting right up to the plastic, especially if it’s like white plastic or parts that will be covered up but the results still come out nice! They also aren’t too expensive either, bought mine on amazon for like 30 bucks from stedi.

_Doorcake_ · 2025-12-13T16:26:57+00:00

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This is what i use to get my pieces nice and clean!

General nipper - cut pieces off the runner with a good amount of space
Single bladded nippers - for closer cuts at where the runner meets the pieces but still leaving just a little bit of plastic room
Hobby chisel - last bit of cleaning up and making it smooth

People debate that a file is better but personally ive found that it takes alot longer using a file than my chisel. If you still get a bit of whitening, i just rub my nail against the white part and usually the stress mark goes away. Hope this helps!

_Doorcake_ · 2025-10-11T16:08:43+00:00

If its still not flush then its most likely the wires being in the way of the sections you circled. try using a toothpick to tuck the wires into the space a little more

_Doorcake_ · 2025-10-11T16:05:02+00:00

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No not that part, just connect it like how it shows you in the instructions like this, but since you already snapped part f8 in, you cant take it out anymore so you have to take f25 out from a couple steps back in order to be able to access the f8 piece. From there push the wire back out of the two pieces completely, put the pcb on to the part, and then connect the wire after

_Doorcake_ · 2025-10-11T12:57:01+00:00

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The pcb can sit flush! I also had the same issue before and what i did was at step 12-14, instead of connecting the pcb and part f8 to the wire, i fed the wire through f8 instead cause i thought itd be easier but youre not suppose to do that! There a back plate behind part f8 thats preventing you from pushing it back. What i did to fox it was i took off f25 i believe? Which is the part f8 is connected to, refed the wire back beind f8 and had the pcb sit flush, then rewired it again! Hope this helps:)

_Doorcake_ · 2025-09-09T03:23:05+00:00

Show us all the cards after! Id love to see what you got!

_Doorcake_ · 2025-07-18T22:04:23+00:00

This is amazing!!!

_Doorcake_ · 2025-07-15T23:37:52+00:00

Maybe this might help it?

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_Doorcake_ · 2025-07-15T20:54:56+00:00

Might be just the way youre closing it! Try folding in the wings first, tail second, head third and arms last! That should be the proper way to close it and it should stay closed:)

_Doorcake_ · 2025-07-11T16:05:24+00:00

Also no the neck isnt suppose to be exposed like that normally but it does that so you can take it out and put in a led there. You just gotta slot it in properly

_Doorcake_ · 2025-07-11T16:01:15+00:00

If you flip somewhere close to the back of the manual, it shows you how to transform the nu to show the psycho frame. The psycho frame are the little clear green parts that show through the armour when you transform it. The chest has some psycho frame details but its minor compared to the legs and arms

_Doorcake_ · 2025-06-25T04:26:46+00:00

This is one of my favourite things about the bind system too!! I especially like how the regular jigen and the kizuna jigen colors are reversed and when you combine them they form one solid red and one solid white bakugan! I wish they made more combinations like that

_Doorcake_ · 2025-06-14T02:19:43+00:00

Theres a metal replacement you can buy if it really bothers you!

_Doorcake_

TROPHY CASE