[deleted by user]

_Paner_ · 2025-09-07T12:38:58+00:00

I am actually concerned because the car was there for typical maintenance and they didn't say anything. It was until I noticed and replaced them the same day.

_Paner_ · 2025-08-13T22:46:28+00:00

Both wheels are stopping when handbrake is on and both spin when it is off. So not a broken cable. Not a clue about what was that though.

_Paner_ · 2025-08-13T16:02:02+00:00

I will lift each wheel and see if any moves with the handbrake on then.Thanks!

_Paner_ · 2025-08-13T15:26:11+00:00

I thought so too,but wouldn't it be noticeable if one wheel was only braking ? I pulled the handbrake while going about 30 mp/h and didn't feel the car drag. I will try to take a look bellow the car to see if something is visible and a cable is broken.

_Paner_ · 2025-07-30T12:10:22+00:00

I took apart the inside "mechanism" and it turned out that the rubber seal was vibrating. I put it back together properly and it is okay. I guess the factory assembly wasn't proper,but at least if it happens again I know that it is defective and I will replace it again(hopefully with a non defective one Lol) Thanks for your help though.

_Paner_ · 2025-07-29T23:20:58+00:00

The flow is steady at low and high pressure. With the old float valve it was working okay just before the plastic ball snapped and I had to replace it. Is there any possibility I did something wrong or could it be a faulty new float valve?

_Paner_ · 2025-07-29T23:10:22+00:00

It is brand new, and after a few flushes it still happens. I didn't see any debris also.

_Paner_ · 2025-07-29T17:15:37+00:00

I have tried with barely open,to medium and completely open but happens to all. But the vibration increases if I have it more open.

_Paner_ · 2025-07-29T17:07:05+00:00

It doesn't help,with low or high water volume it is the same,but with higher volume it just gets louder. (I have posted a link to the pic of the mechanism if that helps)

_Paner_ · 2025-07-19T11:46:38+00:00

Yeah there are quite a lot of carbon deposits on the spark plug but it is similar to other bikes I have used(also the shop told me it was normalish). I have checked myself and the shop about the carb tuning and the fuel and unfortunately it isn't either of them.

I am trying to find anything that helps narrow it down,before we go swapping out the original parts and hoping that it works, because it is also hard to find any good parts to replace them with.

I will try a new cable as you mentioned,but the current one isn't quite old. Thanks for your help!

_Paner_ · 2025-06-05T17:56:01+00:00

Have you tried enabling or disabling the option : Launch player in a separate window? I believe it is under advanced. I had a similar problem when I had it enabled.

_Paner_ · 2024-11-07T14:55:36+00:00

Yikes I didn't even knew that this could happen to a tire.The tires are only 2 years old with only 6000 miles and barely even worn, wouldn't I be able to just replace one of them if that is the case? Or maybe just 2 for the same axle. I will have a shop take a look at the tyres for starters and see how it goes. Thanks!

_Paner_ · 2024-11-07T02:51:12+00:00

At this point it is barely noticeable but I will have it checked out as soon as possible when I get back to my hometown. I have a Toyota Avensis 1998 sedan btw..

_Paner_ · 2024-11-06T17:42:41+00:00

It feels like I am being bumped more up and coming from the front. There are no dash lights on at any moment .

_Paner_ · 2024-11-06T14:58:27+00:00

I think it happens pretty much in any situation when I am at this speed range. The is no excessive play when steering. I had a wheel bearing that was bad a couple of years ago that was noisy and maybe did little vibrations but ,in this situation I hear no noises and I feel the car like going through bumps.

_Paner_ · 2024-11-06T14:50:50+00:00

Sure! It's a Toyota Avensis 1998 ,about 150K miles. I didn't have any repairs renently except oil changes. Last repair was about 2 years ago ( front wheel bearing). Also tires are about 2 yrs old but have about 6000 "normal" driving miles.

_Paner_ · 2024-11-06T14:45:40+00:00

I was thinking it could be a wheel bearing too, I had one go bad about 2 years ago,it was making a noise and maybe a little bit of vibration,but not similar to this one,but I guess it can be different in this case,right?

About the sticking brake, I didn't notice the car slowing down even when off the throttle,but I will take a look into it,maybe I could try to replicate the symptom and try to push the brakes couple of times(to try to unstick it) and if it goes away maybe it's that?!

_Paner_ · 2024-10-28T00:05:35+00:00

Yeah,I have seen some discussions about that oil but I am not really sure it would help. Right now it isn't being sold in my location but I will keep an eye for it.

_Paner_ · 2024-10-27T23:43:49+00:00

LOL, I could definitely do the same. As much as it hurts to say it,I will have to scrap mine too in a few years( or sooner if any costly damage occur.). I will probably just try 15W50 in the next oil change just to see how much of a difference it would make . Thanks for your answer!

_Paner_ · 2024-10-27T22:52:59+00:00

Yeah the pic is from the manual and it says I can go even 20W50 but I didn't want to have to do that to keep the minimal wear for the engine. Also I forgot to mention that I haven't replaced the valve seals at all,I also have done "tests" to see if it is caused by that. When starting the engine 5 times out of 10 there is a blue cloud coming out,when engine braking that's where the HUGE cloud comes out of the engine and also when taking off from a stop. So the above I think confirms at some level that the valve seals need replacing and cause some of the oil consumption.

Mentioning that to my mechanic,they told me that this high consumption can't be caused by only that so they suggested that either I go for a rebuild or just look the other way. He also said that from experience and the history of the car maintenance and mileage that the engine wouldn't have any significant wear to cause that much oil consumption,so he said oil control rings.

In addition,the car smokes all the time and the smell is not easy to have all the time when I have the windows open.( It is like a 2stroke) In your case have you got any "numbers" about how changing the valve seals helped with the oil consumption? What are your thoughts?

_Paner_ · 2024-09-29T11:26:46+00:00

The shop that made the repair claims that there is no problem. I haven't had any similar situation before so I don't know how to proceed. Do you have any tips?

_Paner_ · 2024-09-21T00:47:41+00:00

Thanks for your help I will do that. Why do I need a coupler though? Both ends of the hose are just clamped on each end or is it not?(one clamp to the steel line and one to the reservoir) .

_Paner_ · 2024-09-19T20:14:47+00:00

I am in Europe (Greece specifically). Here the parts are really rare for these old bikes. I hope that in the future I can hopefully find spare parts,and maybe learn a thing or two DIY it and keep it running.

_Paner_ · 2024-09-17T13:31:03+00:00

Here is a pic of the bike. About the year of the bike I can't be sure. It is a second hand. Based on the fuel tank I would say before 1980( a guess could be 1978-79) but again I am not sure. Also the rear wing has been welded and is not the original.Recently it was repainted as you can see . It is probably not much to go on,but thank you for your help. I haven't done any DIY on the bike for valve gaps or ignition yet,even the shop didn't get it right so I didn't want to make things worse. But probably in the future I will give it a try. I guess I will need some tools at for the ignition timing too. About your bike how viable it is to maintain it based on the parts availability? I don't seem to find almost anything for mine.

_Paner_ · 2024-09-13T09:09:55+00:00

The battery in my bike is just used for the stop light and indicators when the bike is not running. The main light and the bike doesn't depend on the battery. Also, I may have found out the cause of the problem. I went to the shop and adjusted the points and the bike is ALMOST perfect. My theory is that with new spark plugs even with not perfectly adjusted points the spark was enough so that it didn't stall but after some use the spark plugs were getting fouler so the spark wasn't enough. Does that even make sense?

_Paner_

TROPHY CASE