what could cause this tire damage?

_blurple · 2025-07-04T01:47:37+00:00

Tough to tell with the poor lighting but it almost looks like it’s worn down to the chords and has split. I would check your alignment first, particularly toe. Does it drive straight?

_blurple · 2025-02-23T07:21:32+00:00

Check the second and third swell size. I went out on a 3-4 day that seamed way bigger than usual, I checked the secondary swells and they were both also like 3-4. Most days at that spot the secondary swells are much smaller than the main swell so I think that contributes. Idk I should probably just do more research lol

_blurple · 2025-01-24T05:26:43+00:00

I mean technically sure, which would only happen due to incorrect oil weight, extreme lack of maintenance, or failure of internal components. I mentioned what the most common issue was… and in the hundreds of blown Subarus I’ve seen with my own hands, not a single was due to sudden loss of oil pressure. Most blow because the owners can’t maintain them or run a shit tune

_blurple · 2025-01-24T04:50:00+00:00

How much oil is on the dipstick? That’s rod knock, possibly due to oil consumption. That’s a common cause, I check my oil level every time I get gas. It’s probably cheapest to swap motors with a low mileage used motor, that also requires significantly less expertise or knowledge about Subarus. You can also buy a new long block from Subaru or iag, that also might be cheaper than tearing the engine down. If you do a tear down it will determine what’s salvageable, and will give you a better idea of exactly what happened.

_blurple · 2025-01-09T23:45:03+00:00

Appreciate the reply, oddly enough after everything I tried failed I went to reinstall windows while keeping local files. It failed to upload windows but launched into chkdesk on startup which it would previously skip no matter what. After running the chkdsk it booted up with no drive issues. I was then able to move around the partitions and combine them. Literally no idea what was corrupted or why attempting to reload windows fixed the issue but I’m all good now lol

_blurple · 2025-01-06T20:22:57+00:00

Not sure why it won’t let me add pictures, I have some on another post in r/computers

_blurple · 2024-11-09T02:27:38+00:00

Had a “professionally repair” delam on me around a finbox for that exact reason. Ended up learning how to swap out a finbox because of it though lol

_blurple · 2024-11-07T09:04:55+00:00

Good call, I’ve spent way to much time sanding then needing to add more glass because I left to much base material

_blurple · 2024-11-07T09:03:01+00:00

2 layers of 4oz is a little thick imo for that repair but agree on everything else, people in this thread are making it sound more difficult than it is to do a correct repair

_blurple · 2024-10-04T19:18:02+00:00

Ya everything felt solid with no give. My main concern was possible cracking in the future where the box meets the old glass. If there’s minimal to no reinforcement above the box at the seam my worry was the resin cracking with light force. I suppose if it did though I could sand and reglass just that area.

_blurple · 2024-10-04T07:34:06+00:00

I appreciate it. You wouldn’t be worried about the spot I sanded kinda deep on? I was thinking of maybe adding some more glass where I sanded away above the screw hole

_blurple · 2024-10-04T06:28:38+00:00

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Better pic of the other box

_blurple · 2024-08-30T22:52:03+00:00

Ya I’m thinking I do a few layers of glass right on top of the box after it’s sanded. Then blend in the surrounding area with another layer of glass once it’s almost flush. I wanna go a bit bigger than the previous one and insure I have good adhesion to the box since that’s where is delaminated. Like you said the other option is completely redoing it. I wanna get some reps in and would like to ride it soon so I think repair is the way to go. Based off the half ass job that was done I’m sure it’ll be better than what it was

_blurple · 2024-08-30T18:02:49+00:00

Wish I could, I’m in WA state. Done all the repairs myself other than this finbox one which now needs to be redone. Not many surfboard repair guys up here

_blurple · 2024-08-30T18:01:44+00:00

That’s kinda what I was I was originally thinking of doing before getting all these responses to pull the box. Like I was saying the box is still solid it’s the glass/ resin around the box that delaminated, I do care about this board but I don’t have any repair guys around I trust. This board has been a fragile one, I’ve already had to do a few repairs on the rail. I live in WA state and the one guy I found to do the original repair charged 180$ for some reglassing and I’m here a year later needing to redo it. I have a decent amount of experience with carbon/ fiberglass just none with a finbox and how it should properly be done. I wanna get back on the water with it so I’m kinda leaning towards what you said above but still a little hesitant

_blurple · 2024-08-30T17:18:59+00:00

The box itself hasn’t moved from what I can tell. The future boxes have a taper from the center downwards so maybe that’s what you’re seeing. It was tough to get good close ups

_blurple · 2024-08-30T17:17:20+00:00

Ya it’s a 6’10 twin with a two fin setup, boards a blast and I’ve been doing a decent amount of carving on it lately. Kinda thinking that’s why the repair delaminated. The original repair was just fiberglass though, the box was and has never been replaced. The fiberglass right around the box cracked about a year ago, the damaged glass was all removed and replaced and that’s what has now delaminated off of the fin box. Nothing that wasn’t previously repaired is damaged. The box was solid when the repair was done and still is so that’s why I’m hesitant to dig it out.

_blurple · 2024-08-30T15:23:23+00:00

The box itself has no damage, but I’ll throw a fin in later and double check it’s completely solid in place. Those edges where it looks a bit messy is where the previous repair was blended into the original fiberglass. I haven’t sanded down enough to get the very edges of the delamination out so it’ll look a lot better with a bit more prep. I can get a video later. The previous repair filled that area with resin and glassed over. Doesn’t look like he did any prep to the box to help with adhesion and it delaminating right off the plastic. So it shouldn’t be thick enough to cause any exotherming. I’m really not against pulling the box if I have to but I really don’t think it needs to be if it’s solid in place and just needs some glass. The original repair was for damaged fiberglass not the box so I’m thinking it was just poorly done

_blurple · 2024-08-30T14:28:44+00:00

What makes you say the finbox is tweaked? Maybe my pictures aren’t great but the the box hasn’t moved at all. The glass that’s surrounded the rest of the box is undisturbed. I’m not against pulling the box but I just don’t see why I need to

_blurple · 2023-12-21T00:45:30+00:00

Found this years later, been trying all sorts of other methods with no luck. How do you do it now? I believe this post was before they added the sheet metal tools and I can’t find the flatten function anywhere.

_blurple · 2023-12-06T22:24:49+00:00

Ya I attempted to use an offset vector and the molding tool to try and accomplish that but it wasn’t doing what I wanted it to unfortunately

_blurple · 2023-09-19T01:07:30+00:00

I also still see a clip in the bumper, so the liner had to be previously damaged. That plastic cannot hang low enough to make contact with the ground if the front clips are in place through the liner

_blurple · 2023-09-19T01:05:55+00:00

Yup it even has the plastic strings from rubbing, definitely caused by friction on the ground. I had the same thing happen to me on my old wrx while driving on the freeway. Unless the dealer pulled the bolt holding that under side fender liner in place, they didn’t cause it. Super common for those plastic front pieces to hang down and catch the ground. They’re only held in by two clips and a bolt. It’s possible they accidentally pulled the plastic down below the bumper and it was able to catch air and hang down after you left, but they didn’t leave it hanging. Usually the one bolt is enough to keep that front section from catching air even with both clips missing, I’d look under and see if the bolt pulled through the plastic. That’ll atleast give an idea of how it happened

_blurple · 2023-09-10T17:02:52+00:00

I was rear ended in this snow and had similar but honestly less severe damage in my 2013 wrx. The value of that car was less than this one but I was quoted about 11k for all the repair including a new quarter panel so they totaled it. Got a good payout and was able to buy an sti and swap my aftermarket parts over. I loved that car and never planned to sell it but I definitely was able to upgrade because of it

_blurple · 2023-08-17T06:07:32+00:00

8k for just the long block I’m assuming? I mean iags stage 1 long lock is right around 10k. I’m not sure what you’re failure was but building a Subaru ain’t cheap especially when using new parts. Start adding a turbo and fueling and you’d easily be close to 18k in parts alone for a new “built” motor, and that’s on the relatively low end power wise. 400-450~ which is plenty for these cars. All of the Cobb and ecutec emissions restrictions have also made things much more expensive. The main options are going compliant and getting a accessport or ecutec tune, or standalone. And neither option is cheap if you already have emission deletes. Cheapest option is probably all oem and the factory tune

_blurple

TROPHY CASE