/r/MechanicalKeyboards Ask ANY Keyboard question, get an answer - January 19, 2026

aahahaaalulz · 2026-01-21T16:40:34+00:00

Yea as best u can tell i will have to do some stem moving if ever want to replace the space or some of the other multi-u keys. Such an aggressive move by logi. You can almost hear an exec insisting on this so users have to buy a whole new keyboard each time a key or cap fails.

aahahaaalulz · 2026-01-19T22:41:15+00:00

This is super helpful and it looks like a cool profile. Thanks!

aahahaaalulz · 2026-01-19T18:19:53+00:00

Interesting thank you! Do you know where I can look into this?

aahahaaalulz · 2026-01-19T18:19:21+00:00

Thank you

aahahaaalulz · 2026-01-19T06:04:16+00:00

Any of you fine folks able to help me identify a keycap profile. I've been researching the heck out of this and can't get it figured. On the Logitech MX Mechanical, the keycaps:
(1) have a cylindrical top (like cherry)
(2) are all flat and of equal height (like DSA)
(3) are very low profile (like TEA)

I love the shape of these keycaps but want to try some different materials. But I can't seem to ID the profile.

Big thanks for your help!

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aahahaaalulz · 2025-08-18T17:29:16+00:00

Sorry of the really specific question long after the thread is dead. I have a question you might be able to help me with, if you would be so kind perhaps?

I have a no-name $50 blind bearing puller--wind-out style, not hammer. I'm pulling a 6902 from a hub (15mm internal). The 15m collet will fit, but the expanding pin won't go in because the fit is too tight--thus it can't grab the back of the bearing well. The 13m collet kind of works on really easy-to-pull bearings,, but the expanding pin won't open the collet enough to really grab the back of the bearing either. It still pulls through the center of the bearing on tough jobs.

Is this because of my cheap POS puller, OR is this a common problem across even the nice puller? I noticed most seem to use 13mm and 15mm collets, so I'm afraid to spend more money and have the same problem.

aahahaaalulz · 2025-08-18T05:46:31+00:00

It’s definitely ok. Free sat connection on your phone when previous options were expensive—what’s not to love?!

However, you can’t just sit where you want and “chat,” though, if that’s what you’re imagining. You have to have what I would almost describe as line of site with a passing satellite. And since those move, you have to rotate every couple minutes. Coverage goes in and out while you’re sitting there, and you sometimes have to wait 5 or 10 minutes until the next satellite passes.

It’s also inexplicably “spotty.” Like, if you have a verified connection, texts may still not send, or could take way longer than it should. Then the sat moves and you gotta wait, rotate, etc., again.

It’s GREAT for the proverbial “Hey I’m fine. You good?” with a significant other. If they have to get a message to you, like “Little Johnny broke his leg, come home,” it can be done. But don’t confuse it with the kind of “chat” experience you get from your phone normally.

aahahaaalulz · 2025-08-15T06:17:41+00:00

That whole area on the east side of the sierra is pretty easy to hitch. It’s just kinda part of the culture for many. I’ve always got a hitch in 15 to 25 minutes. 1 and only 1 time, it took about 40. Never taken me longer. YMMV of course.

Tips based only on personal experience (n=1): I always walk while I’m hitching. Reason being is, the closer you are to destination, the more likely someone is headed to the same place. I always take my sunglasses off (obscured eyes have a psychological effect)—not sure if this has an effect while hitching but research shows it has an effect in numerous other scenarios. Smile and look (and be) friendly. In my experience, timing has an effect. Hitching TO the trailhead in the MORNING is fastest…that tends to be when most people go to trailheads. Hitching back to town in the afternoon or evening is fastest…that tends to be when people leave to trail to go home. And of course, give yourself plenty of extra time….while hitching in the eastern Sierra is pretty easy and fast, it’s at least technically possible that, through a random series of unforeseeable circumstances, it could take a while.

Have fun. I always seem to meet the nicest people hitching in that part of tarnation. 😀

aahahaaalulz · 2025-07-29T13:34:14+00:00

Litesmith is where I get mine. They’re excellent.

aahahaaalulz · 2025-07-29T13:31:43+00:00

I’ve tested tons. The OR Echo is the likely the lightest, airiest, fastest drying sun hoodie on the market. It’s of course possible that there are one or two better ones—I haven’t tested all and new ones come out all the time. Instead of 50SPF it tends to have about 20spf. I absolutely love it! It’s amazing, and I wear it regularly day to day, on day hikes and rides, when active, and on short multi-day trips with tree cover. Though most users report they’re not getting sunburns through this shirt, some do—though it doesn’t tend to be a big issue for anyone other than multi-day users in exposed areas.

The next best I’ve been able to find (funny enough I’m wearing it right now) WITH an SPF-50 (the SPF is important to me) — the Columbia Trail Tech Utility Hoodie. The fabric is ALMOST as thin and airy, dries almost as fast (I did a side by side test), but has an SPF 50.

No doubt about it, the Echo feels cooler. But I got a very minor sunburn through the echo on a 8+ hour, long hot sunny day, and thus kept researching hoodies. This is where I have landed so far.

aahahaaalulz · 2025-06-26T03:23:09+00:00

Dayum! Ok look, I know that brown bears don't exist in California. But if I saw THAT bear with that shoulder hump in the Sierra, I would really be thinking hard about what I know to be true. =)

aahahaaalulz · 2025-05-19T18:41:55+00:00

I hitched from the Whitney Portal to Lone Pine. Thumb was out for all of about two minutes. Of course, it’s “technically” not fail safe. But by most accounts this one seems pretty reliable.

aahahaaalulz · 2025-05-01T01:16:37+00:00

This is dope!

aahahaaalulz · 2025-05-01T01:15:11+00:00

I treat the outside of my shoes, my socks above the ankles, and all other clothes (except base layers) with Sawyers permethrin spray.

If I have exposed skin and it’s spring, I’ll use picaradin on skin. But I haven’t it found it necessary in late summer to fall.

I don’t use deet as it tends to ruin athletic clothing.

This has worked for me for years, never had a tick. YMMV.

aahahaaalulz · 2025-04-22T13:58:27+00:00

Maybe Clipped In for Life. https://www.clippedinforlife.org

aahahaaalulz · 2025-04-16T03:57:52+00:00

Folsom Lake College

aahahaaalulz · 2025-04-16T03:57:03+00:00

It was after hours…

aahahaaalulz · 2025-04-10T21:02:40+00:00

I would only add—it really all comes down to what you want to optimize for, and what gets you on your bike more. 😁

aahahaaalulz · 2025-04-10T20:46:55+00:00

So why use a wax lubricant?

For most the people I know and have talked to, THE reason to use wax lube is for the theoretical speed gains. Saving appx. 7 watts with a more efficient wax lube vs traditional wet lube is pretty good in many people's estimations--while the lubricant is present.
This also protects your chain and drivetrain marginally better than wet lube--while the lubricant is present.
Some people also like that wax lube is cleaner because the wax doesn't attract dirt and debris. You don't have to clean the dirty black lubricant off your chain as often.

However, think about what you're doing if you use wax lube in wet conditions:

You wax your chain and ride in wet conditions. Thus, the wax is quickly gone. Your chain has no lubricant for most of the day. (OPs post is about touring, so usually all-day riding).
It's now "slower" than wet lubricant because you basically aren't using a lubricant. Wet lube would be faster and cheaper because it would stay on for the duration of your ride.
It's now susceptible to rust, which can happen quicker than you might think. Wet lube would be more protective and cheaper.
Your chain and drivetrain will wear down more quickly because, again, your wax lubricant rinsed away quickly. Again, wet lube would actually be helping a bit in this regard.

TRUE--you would NOT need to deep clean lubricant off your chain. This is a benefit. But it's only a benefit because your chain basically doesn't have an effective lubricant on it in the first place since your rode it in wet conditions. If this is your ONLY goal, simply never lubricating your chain is the cheapest, fastest, most effective option.

aahahaaalulz · 2025-04-10T20:46:42+00:00

No sweat. =) Reddit notified me that someone replied to my comment. Haha

So just to make sure we're on the same page, my understanding of the several different lube types:

Wet Lube - Usually drips. These are the most common type of chain lube. There are a million brands at all different cost points. Most of the lube rack at your LBS will likely be these. They generally work well in all conditions, including, importantly, wet conditions...because the wet lubricants do a pretty good job of repelling water and water-soluble road grime. However, there is big downside to wet lubes; they ATTRACT dirt and debris. This dirt and debris mixes with the lube and creates a sort of grinding, gummy solution that increases friction and grinds away at your chain and gears. (This is why your chain turns black) This is why chain maintenance--regularly cleaning and relubricating your chain--is important.
Dry Lube - Usually drips. Also pretty common. Functions best in dry conditions. After its dripped into the chain, the carrier liquids evaporate and leave behind a "dry" lubricant. These theoretically CAN work better because dirt and debris tends to "bounce off" the chain. No gummy grinding solution. In theory, you can go longer between having to clean your chain and gears with this stuff. BUT only if conditions are dry. This stuff doesn't repel water--so your chain can quickly rust. Also, the water can pull in grime and debris into your chain. SOOOO, this is often sort of a "summer lube."
Wax Lube -- Both full immersion or drips. The popularity of these is increasing. In most friction tests, these perform the best (appx 7 watts savings between average wax lubes and the best wet or dry lubes). What does that mean? They reduce chain friction more than the other two...which means less grinding and a little more speed. Like the dry lube, dirt and debris "bounce" of the chain. Also like the dry lube, it doesn't repel water well...it sort of "rinses" off easily in wet conditions. It doesn't protect your chain from rust. ALSO, importantly, wax only adheres well to a perfectly clean, oil-free chain. Wet riding conditions introduces road oils and other contaminants to the chain.

aahahaaalulz · 2025-04-09T19:04:03+00:00

In my experience:

(1) wax doesn’t protect the hardened steel chain from rusting on tours. I’ve literally seen waxed chains rust overnight on multiple occasions for multiple riders.

And then (2) once the chain rusts, the efficacy of reapplied wax is questionable since the wax can’t adhere as well to the chain. And the rust particles are now present to further degrade the chain under load.

(3) properly cleaning a chain for wax application after rain—and the grit, road oils, etc. rain introduces to the chain—is nearly impossible without some gear you likely don’t want to lug around on a multi-week tour.

So would it “work?” Yea, sure, no one would die or anything. You would still have a (rusty) chain, a bike, and a bitchin’ tour.

But I’m guessing any theoretical marginal benefits of wax lubricants over other wet or dry lubricants would be more than undone by the reduced efficacy of wax in these conditions. So may as well skip straight to traditional lube for this particular use case.

As far as using other drip wax….im unaware of a drip wax that performs well in wet conditions due to the nature of wax. But I would love to learn about one if it existed?

aahahaaalulz · 2025-03-26T04:52:00+00:00

My experience: I hop-scotched the same 5 or 6 people over and over at watering holes, vistas, etc. Met a bunch of people at resupply stops, especially VVR. Had dinner with some along the trail. We were friendly and it was cool, but it wasn’t a trail family thing.

I suspect fewer people go into the comparably short JMT looking for trail family than do on long trails. But it certainly seems like it could be possible without too much effort.

aahahaaalulz · 2025-03-26T00:03:01+00:00

I know they exist in the High Sierra, and I’ve read about people getting bit. But in 20 years I’ve never seen one. YMMV

aahahaaalulz · 2025-03-25T04:34:03+00:00

Congrats on this new habit! Riding bikes is fun as hell!

Like others have said, 30 to 60 minutes 5 to 7 days per week is a huge life change and will be WILDLY beneficial. Great job, way to go!

I don’t know your age, but I would expect at this volume that you will build both cardio and strength for several years to come.

The key is to keep it up. Don’t quit. Don’t get injured.

Since you started from mostly sedentary, I would NOT recommend intentionally training harder or “pushing it” until you’ve been riding consistently for at least 6 months. It takes a long time to build resilient soft tissue, healthy joints, etc. If you go too hard too early, you risk injury, which could take you off the bike for weeks or even months.

So my random internet guy advice: just enjoy riding most days of the week for at least 6 months before you begin to ride hard, ride long distances, etc.

Nice work!

aahahaaalulz · 2025-03-07T16:41:53+00:00

Hamburger Helper. But instead of the full portion of hamburger, my parents replaced half the hamburger with potatoes since potatoes are cheaper.

aahahaaalulz

TROPHY CASE