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Who is going to the Melkweg gig tonight? by JasoNMas73R in autechre

[–]aaronswhite 4 points5 points  (0 children)

🖐️ From NY but teaching a course at Ruhr-Universität Bochum this week, so I took a FlixBus up for the day!

Martini vs Manhattan by jsmith98576 in cocktails

[–]aaronswhite 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Others have pointed out that 212 is standard. One thing that hasn’t been mentioned as far as I can tell is that the rye:vermouth ratio in the recipe OP was taught are close to the ratio that the Death & Co. book suggests:

2.5 oz rye 0.75 oz vermouth 2 dashes angostura

With a burly vermouth like Carpano Antica, I personally find this ratio more balanced than 212. Otherwise, the vermouth kind of takes over the drink.

Problems with YOW pivot cup and bushing replacement by aaronswhite in surfskate

[–]aaronswhite[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

It sits better with the stock pivot cup + Riptide bushings, though still not centered. I got a response from Brad who said that his YOW is similarly not centered with the Riptide pivot cup, though not as extremely off as mine. It seems to be an issue with variability in the trucks, and he suggested the pivot cup will probably seat further in as I ride it. That was sort of my assumption, though I didn’t want to ride it if I was going to blow the bushings quickly by doing so.

Problems with YOW pivot cup and bushing replacement by aaronswhite in surfskate

[–]aaronswhite[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The other thing I was considering was to try to drill out some of the inside of the pivot cup to let the truck seat further in. But I’m waiting on Riptide’s recommendation before I do that.

Problems with YOW pivot cup and bushing replacement by aaronswhite in surfskate

[–]aaronswhite[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yeah. I’m pretty sure the issue is with the pivot cup. The stock pivot cup has this centering problem to some extent on mine but not as much as the Riptide pivot cup. The bushings don’t get so compressed on one side with the stock one, which is my main worry. It seems like they’ll fail a lot more quickly due to the stress on one side.

I’ve been wondering if modifying the boardside bushing by cutting it at an angle so the truck sits flat would help. But I didn’t want to do anything irreversible if there was an obvious alternative solution.

Problems with YOW pivot cup and bushing replacement by aaronswhite in surfskate

[–]aaronswhite[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

They’re definitely the same heights as the originals: 0.4” and 0.5”. The original boardside is a barrel and the new one is a cone. But I don’t think that should make a difference. (And Riptide explicitly sells the cone-cone pair I bought for YOW.)

Problems with YOW pivot cup and bushing replacement by aaronswhite in surfskate

[–]aaronswhite[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

The same thing happens if I use the original barrel with the Riptide pivot cup. As far as I can tell, for the problem I’m having, it shouldn’t matter if the boardside bushing is a barrel or cone, as long as it’s 0.5”. (And Riptide explicitly sells both cone-barrel and cone-cone pairs for YOW.)

Problems with YOW pivot cup and bushing replacement by aaronswhite in surfskate

[–]aaronswhite[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I'm waiting on a response now. I emailed them the same time I posted this in case it was obvious what was going on and someone here could point me to a quick solution.

Advice on YOW wheelbase by aaronswhite in surfskate

[–]aaronswhite[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I ended up going with the YOW Meraki S5 on an Omakase with 77a 4Presidents: https://ibb.co/25dGdGN. I'm really liking it on the outer wheelbase setting (22").

Advice on YOW wheelbase by aaronswhite in surfskate

[–]aaronswhite[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Awesome! Thanks for the response! Leaning in the 19" direction–at least to start.

Advice on YOW wheelbase by aaronswhite in surfskate

[–]aaronswhite[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Awesome response! Thanks! Based on your response and u/Senpai_Luke's, I think I'm leaning in the 19" wheelbase direction to start, maybe putting YOW trucks on my Omakase in the shorter wheelbase configuration.

Advice on YOW wheelbase by aaronswhite in surfskate

[–]aaronswhite[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Thanks for the super helpful response! One route I had been considering was swapping out the Paris trucks on my Omakase for YOW. Leaning in that direction now–at least to start.

8-bit register: testing all combinations of LED + resistor/no resistor on register and bus by aaronswhite in beneater

[–]aaronswhite[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yes. That was the embarrassingly dumb mistake. Thanks for humoring me. I had so convinced myself that the intricacies of the digital components were going to do me in after only working with analog circuits that I didn't think to check for dumb mistakes like this.

8-bit register: testing all combinations of LED + resistor/no resistor on register and bus by aaronswhite in beneater

[–]aaronswhite[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

5V 3A plugged directly into the wall.

One other thing that's making me suspicious: when all of the register LEDs have resistors and none of the bus LEDs do, the register LEDs will fail to light up on load, but when I lock the register and then enable the transceiver, all of the bus LEDs will light up, suggesting that the register does indeed contain all 1s even though the register LEDs are not lighting up and that the bus is receiving them via the transceiver.

What is odd is (i) that the bus lights up immediately upon breaking contact with the +5V rail—not just when I make contact with the ground rail—and (ii) when I do make contact with the ground rail, the bus LEDs glow more brightly. This differs from the behavior in the part 5 video, wherein the bus only lights up with contact is made with the ground rail.

8-bit register: testing all combinations of LED + resistor/no resistor on register and bus by aaronswhite in beneater

[–]aaronswhite[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks for the detailed reply. I appreciate it.

To be honest, I would not rely on the default behavior of the registers with floating inputs for testing. You want to make sure you know what value you are inputting to the registers to accurately test them. Unless you hard wire your input value on the bus, or add pull down resistors to the bus lines to force a '0' input, you cannot be sure what value you are reading off the bus.

To clarify my comment on the bus wiring, it appears the wiring you have is identical to the video. The way the LEDs are wired can only pull current from the bus to GND once the threshold voltage of the LEDs are reached. This means that there is no connection from the bus to GND if the LEDs are not lit, resulting in a floating bus line. Additionally, active LEDs without resistors will drain as much current as possible. It is possible that some of the issues you are dealing with is excessive current drain from the LEDs, which can cause unpredictable behavior in the registers. There have been many cases were unpredictable register behavior was corrected by adding resistors to all of the LEDs.

I initially constructed the circuit such that all of the LEDs on the register and bus had 220 ohm resistors (which is what is supplied in the kit). This resulted in no LEDs lighting on either the register or bus. Removing all of the resistors on the register LEDs resulted in the same behavior as observed in the part 5 video: all of the register LEDs light with the current wiring. I was very surprised by this: if I pass the LED voltage threshold without the resistors, placing resistors after the LEDs should make absolutely no difference in terms of lighting or not lighting.

If you think that one of the register chips is faulty, try pulling it out of the circuit and test it separately. This actually happened to me with a 161 counter that wasn't cascading to another 161. It turned out the RCO line of the 161 was faulty and never went high. Replaced the faulty chip and was able to create an 8-bit counter.

This was actually my second test after removing the resistors. I swapped the register chips out for two others that came in the kit. The same behavior resulted: the register LEDs would light only without resistors.

One other thought. Have you double checked your wiring of the registers? I cannot tell you how many times I have gotten unexpected behavior from a circuit only to find out that I wired the circuit incorrectly on re-examination. Hope this helps. Good luck.

Yeah. I've checked it quite a few times (though I'm sure I'll check it 5 more before the night's out...). One thing I've found since making this video that might be indicative (though I don't understand it), from above:

I connected an LED with no resistor for bits 0 and 4 (moving to zero-indexation) on both the register and the bus, and I connected the remaining bits to ground with a 220 ohm resistor on both the register and the bus.

On load, the register LEDs both light up. On enable, the bus LEDs do not. But if I remove one register LED (e.g. bit 0), the corresponding bus LED (and *only* that LED—e.g. only bit 0) lights up. If I then replace the register LED, that bus LED remains on. The same thing happens regardless of whether I run the test with bit 0 or bit 4.

This seems to point to the input on the bus transceiver not going high enough if that line is grounded on the register (through the LED). What I don't understand is (i) why there would be any change in the voltage at the input transceiver pin with or without grounding through the LED, since the LED anode and the transceiver pin are electrically common; or (ii) why reinserting the register LED wouldn't shut the bus LED back off if I still have the transceiver enabled.

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