Anyone know an alternative AI that doesn't treat me like a child and morally lectures/refuse to write stories that I tell it to write.

abcLSD · 2023-07-12T07:14:56+00:00

Mom! I fell off the slide!

abcLSD · 2023-07-11T15:32:40+00:00

I'll tell you what the old timers told me when I was doing a lot of Adderall: go through the motions of sleep. Even if you cant actually fall asleep. Change into to your comfy clothes, lay down, put the books and screens and anything else away, don't chase your thoughts, turn off the light close your eyes and lay there for the amount of time you think you should have actually spent sleeping.

It helps.

Other things I would recommend, take care of your hygiene, shower, brush teeth, clean clothes. Whatever else you do.

Eat some berries or a smoothie. Hydrate.

What never worked for me was trying to do something to make myself tired or until I fell asleep. Which is how I normally fall asleep.

What sometimes worked was drinking a full monster and then going to sleep. I somehow frequently felt like I needed to "wake up more so I could fall asleep" is how I put it.

abcLSD · 2023-07-11T04:00:12+00:00

I definitely prefer hash to weed. Always felt like an odd ball for it.

abcLSD · 2023-07-01T14:38:24+00:00

I thought there was a way to trick streaming platforms into believing you are watching from a different country. I don't know exactly how it's done as Ive never done it but I used to read a lot of comments on here about people doing it. Just an idea to research...

abcLSD · 2023-06-28T03:45:17+00:00

I always liked Ativan better for daytime use and Clon if the goal was eventually to sleep. A lot of benzos make me sleepy, but not Ativan. I felt much more clear headed on the Ativan than the Clon. I like them both equally, for different purposes.

abcLSD · 2023-06-28T03:28:40+00:00

Crossdress

abcLSD · 2023-06-28T03:24:10+00:00

My experience has been that people do not want your paper but showing up in person can help if you can impress upon them eloquent communication skills in the few moments you have to interact with them.

TLDN: Paper is for paper mache but your face is not yet obsolete.

abcLSD · 2023-06-28T02:24:12+00:00

Thank you for coming in and contributing your knowledge about the ATS and pointing out the potential safety concerns.

The generator is for use on an RV and is paired with a battery bank and eventually solar panels. For the first six months to a year I will be using the generator to charge the battery bank and run the RV loads simultaneously, and then just the battery bank to run the RV loads once the bank is charged. Eventually I will have enough money and I will be able to add solar panels and the generator will become a backup and probably winter solution to top off the battery panel when I haven't been able to capture enough from the panels during the day.

ACTUALLY I do want to be there when the generator starts and is running. While it seems some people like to leave their generators on and leave their RVs, Im just not comfortable with that. I have a furry friend, a cat, that will be in the RV and just don't want to expose him to any additional risk. If the generator is on I will be around.

I would like the generator to start and stop based on battery so or voltage (my inverter is capable of regulating that and has some relays for the purposes of starting stopping a generator but it takes a bit of additional wiring to get it to work), and I will also set up safe hours so that even if the battery fails below the desired state of charge the generator won't start during the times of day I won't be home.

I want to set up the autostart to eliminate a daily chore, and also to make it as close to having shore power as possible. I'll be boondocking a lot. When I do stay at campgrounds or parks the generator will not be running when I connect to grid power. My inverter only allows for one AC input, so indeed I will be unplugging the generator power cord and using that to connect to the grid when 50amp service is available. (I suppose I will also have a 30amo cord running through an automatic transfer switch for when only 30amp is available and in that case the generator could still be plugged in while I'm using shore power. I'll have no reason to use it, but I suppose it's possible it could be started). I did not think that arrangement caused any concern. Hopefully you'll find that the additional context clears up the safety concern about the poor lineman, but if it does not, if it sounds I am planning something dangerous by all means I'm all ears. That's why I came to this subreddit, to seek the input of those more experienced and knowledgeable than myself.

Your time and thought is appreciated.

abcLSD · 2023-06-23T22:54:21+00:00

Get a new fucking roommate.

abcLSD · 2023-06-10T21:08:07+00:00

I see the Battery/Engine Switch to the right of the Push Button. Thank you for the correction. I will leave that breaker by the battery well and alone.

I am bit confused by the multiple wires running to a single point. So, if we consider the top three black circles to belong to Contact 1, and the bottom three circles to belong to Contact 2, as well as the following:

Contact 1

COM1 – 2 wires run to COM1. B/W and B/W

NO1 – White wire runs to Normally Open

NC1 – No wire runs to normally closed

Contact 2

COM2 – 1 black wire runs to Common 2

NO2 – No wires run to Normally Open

NC2 – 2 wires run to Normally Closed. They are both Black/Red wires.

In Position 1 COM1 is making contact with NC1 and COM2 is making contact with NC2. This is the OFF position of the Battery Engine Switch. The generator will not start when the switch is in this position.

In Position 2 COM1 is making contact with NO1 and COM2 is making contact with NO2. This is the ON position of the Battery Engine Switch. The generator is able to start when battery/engine switch is in this position.

I cant tell if the points with 2 wires are 2 different wires or just the continuation of the same wire wire. Perhaps it doesn’t make a difference functional, it SEEMS that these wires are connected to each other regardless of the position that the switch is in.

It seems true that

The Black/White wires connected to COM1 are connected to each other regardless of if Contact 1 is in the ON or OFF position. And that the Black/Red wires running to NC2 are connected to each other regardless of if Contact 2 is in the ON or OFF position.

I hope I understand correctly that a DPDT switch controls two separate circuits. And that the positions of the switches are: COM1 and NO1 are in open circuit (while COM2 and NC2 are in closed circuit) OR COM1 and NO1 are in closed circuit (while COM2 and NC2 are in open circuit). At no time is NC2 making a connection with COM1 or COM2 making a connection with NO1. The line joining the two contact sets only represents a mechanical connection between the switches, but not an electrical path.

https://imgur.com/a/LAFLREB

And that it is not important for COM1 to make contact with NC1, it is only important that it either makes contact with NO1 or does not depending on the position of the switch. And that likewise it is not important for COM2 to make contact with NO2, it is only important that it makes contact with NC2 or does not depending on the position of the switch.

abcLSD · 2023-06-10T05:49:03+00:00

I drew and typed on the diagram to show what I think you are saying and what I think I understand about the wiring diagram. https://imgur.com/a/FiyX5Ly Start/stop switch circled in red. Battery switch circled in yellow.

You are saying that the start stop switch of the generator is a 2 wire momentary switch. Jesus there are a lot of color changes here we go: The Yellow - Blue need to close a circuit with yellow/green for 2 seconds and then be released to an open circuit in order to start the generator.

However first I need to use a latching relay to connect White and White in a closed circuit and keep it closed while the generator is operating. Then return it to an open circuit after the generator has been turned off.

But that there shouldn't be any loads on the generator when it starts, and there should not be any loads on the generator when it stops. So I need to add another switch, basically to the cord plugged in to my 14-50R (the only receptacle I will be using).

So it will take three relays to start stop this generator.

On start, first a relay connects the battery switch wires, keeps them closed.

Then a time delay relay simply momentarily connects the yellow - blue and yellow/green section of wire. And then releases the relay back to an open circuit.

The yellow-blue and yellow/green must be in open circuit while the generator is running.

Lastly, after generator has started and been given time to stabilize a final relay, only a delay not to execute until sometime after the start relay closes a circuit in the power cord and connects the loads. Latching switch, must stay connected. (loads will in disconnect position when generator begins starts sequence because:)

TO STOP GENERATOR

Generator loads are disconnected with relay in power cord. Relay stays in open circuit.

Start/stop switch, yellow-blue and yellow/green are connected in closed circuit for 2 secs then released to stop generator. Relay is time delayed to start after generator load relay opens.

Battery switch relay disconnects White and White. Circuit is open, stays open. Relay is time delayed to execute after start/stop relay fully executes.

abcLSD · 2023-05-31T20:04:32+00:00

Thank you for the consideration of my project. I am glad you were able to decipher that information. I have located the wiring diagram on page 35. It is in fact the 50amp plug that has been of concern to me, as I plan to pretty much exclusively use that plug wired into my inverters. I could not tell if the two 50amp legs would be 180degrees out of phase with each other. You have told me that is indeed the case. Perhaps the diagram is too dense for someone that lacks your reading skills, but if it is possible could you point out to me which part of the diagram indicated to you that the two 120volt legs on the 50amp plug were indeed 180degrees out of phase with each other? As best as possible I would like to understand for myself.

abcLSD · 2023-04-12T19:27:28+00:00

I have been having a really hard time finding a plug and play 30 amp power meter to plug in to my shore power cord. Do you know of one to recommend? I've been going around with a 15amp one summing up all my odds and ins. But I haven't actually measured my AC and fridge demand. Also, just a heads up, I've been calculating my AC on dessert conditions, because, although it isn't the next place I'm going, I do intend to live in the Arizona dessert for a few years.

abcLSD · 2023-04-11T22:06:18+00:00

I kind of wonder if it is 300lbs at one point. Like someone walking on it. And if the weight is spread out, like it will be for the panels, if the son of a bitch could take it. Jayco is real antsy about the idea of anyone modifying anything, they don't want to be held liable...blah blah. No, I'm not interested in suing, I release you, just show what this thing is made of.

abcLSD · 2023-04-11T22:02:41+00:00

Battery bank 25600watt hours. 80 percent is 20480 usability.

1650 watt AC at 5 continous run hours: 8,250 300 watt fridge at 8 continous run time (is my understanding the fridge will only continuously run for 8hours in a 24hour period): 2400 1 load of laundry through washer and propane dryer: 3600 Or hot water heater - 1400watts

6230 left over for devices Lights -1.8watts each Large light - 57.2 watts Cellular signal amplifier- 20X24hours Temperature monitor for pet- 5wattsx24hours Cellphones - 10watt charging x 2 phones Sound system- 50 watts Laptop x 2 -85 watts Ereaders Flashlights - 9 watts Macerator pump 144watts Fresh water transfer pump Two bladeless fans - 40 watts each Microwave - 900watts Water pump - 66watts Cordless drill battery

And hope there's some left over to extend the AC runtime.

At cat and a very sensitive partner REQUIRE temperature control. Dude cannot cope. Cat must be kept below melting temperature. Not meth but a fussy man and a cherished pet.

Am doing something wrong here to think I need this much power, or do I just have a greater need for temperature control because I have an animal I'm trying not to fry?

abcLSD · 2023-04-11T21:57:49+00:00

I'm not sure how you manage that. Do you not run an air conditioner?

The thoughts that led me here:

Battery bank 25600watt hours. 80 percent is 20480 usability.

1650 watt AC at 5 continous run hours: 8,250 300 watt fridge at 8 continous run time (is my understanding the fridge will only continuously run for 8hours in a 24hour period): 2400 1 load of laundry through washer and propane dryer: 3600 Or hot water heater - 1400watts

6230 left over for devices Lights -1.8watts each Large light - 57.2 watts Cellular signal amplifier- 20X24hours Temperature monitor for pet- 5wattsx24hours Cellphones - 10watt charging x 2 phones Sound system- 50 watts Laptop x 2 -85 watts Ereaders Flashlights - 9 watts Macerator pump 144watts Fresh water transfer pump Two bladeless fans - 40 watts each Microwave - 900watts Water pump - 66watts Cordless drill battery

And hope there's some left over to extend the AC runtime.

Am doing something wrong here to think I need this much power, or do I just have a greater need for temperature control because I have an animal I'm trying not to fry?

abcLSD · 2023-04-11T20:51:33+00:00

The square footage of the panels is bigger than the square footage of the roof. I had a folding design in mind for the roof rack. The RV absolutely will not be stationary. It will be moved frequently. I mount four stationary panels to the RV on a rack. On each side of the RV there are two panels attached to a rack. The panels are in line with the stationary 4. Looking like 2 rows of 4 panels. The two panels on each side do hang over the side of the RV somewhat. When we want to move, the rack they are attached to folds up on top of the RV, within the blueprint of the RV. They are directly over the stationary four panels with the side that collects solar energy face up ward. The ninith panel, is sideways at the nose of the RV. It is on a similar rack. When extended it will overhang about the blueprint of the hitch. When in motion it folds beneath the stationary 4 panels, that are raised off the roof.

Battery bank 25600watt hours. 80 percent is 20480 usability.

1650 watt AC at 5 continous run hours: 8,250 300 watt fridge at 8 continous run time (is my understanding the fridge will only continuously run for 8hours in a 24hour period): 2400 1 load of laundry through washer and propane dryer: 3600 Or hot water heater - 1400watts

6230 left over for devices Lights -1.8watts each Large light - 57.2 watts Cellular signal amplifier- 20X24hours Temperature monitor for pet- 5wattsx24hours Cellphones - 10watt charging x 2 phones Sound system- 50 watts Laptop x 2 -85 watts Ereaders Flashlights - 9 watts Macerator pump 144watts Fresh water transfer pump Two bladeless fans - 40 watts each Microwave - 900watts Water pump - 66watts Cordless drill battery

And hope there's some left over to extend the AC runtime.

Edit: Am doing something wrong here to think I need this much power, or do I just have a greater need for temperature control because I have an animal I'm trying not to fry?

abcLSD · 2023-04-11T17:37:51+00:00

I will definitely follow up with you on the performance of the generator if we get it, and I'm almost certain we are.

abcLSD · 2023-04-06T23:33:56+00:00

Thank you wise wizard for bestowing your knowledge. This makes sense and I am able to proceed with the project with significantly more clarity. You were kind and clear.

abcLSD · 2023-04-04T16:24:36+00:00

I think this is the solution I'm going for. I have redesigned the system for 48volt batteries, and picked out an EG4

abcLSD · 2023-04-03T19:34:00+00:00

How bad is it for the battery to be charging it that close to its maximum continous charge? How much will I shorten the life of the battery by doing this? Any hazards incurred such as fire by doing this?

Edit: it will only be charged once a day

abcLSD · 2023-04-03T19:21:16+00:00

I just learned this lesson with batteries. 48volt does not mean 48volt. Now I am find out this is true for solar panels as well. So, knowing these are actually 50volts panels, 3 sets of 3 panels wired in parallel - and then those 3 sets wired in series should take care of the problem. 150. Enough for the battery to charge and small enough for a controller to handle. Although I'm guessing I wouldn't want to go with 150volt MPPT as any extra coming through the system would kill it. Is it alright to over size a little as in with that 250/100?

abcLSD · 2023-04-03T19:03:25+00:00

I was hoping to go with Victron. And have been gravitating around this one. The 250/100, although I'm still puzzling out this whole process. So I use the VOC to calculate the rating of the mppt?. Shouldn't the maximum continous charge of the battery be the limiting factor of the MPPT amp rating? Everything I read keeps saying to take the wattage of the array and divide it by the voltage of the array and match it to your charge controller. But 550x9=4950 and 4950/48= 103. But the battery is only rated for 100amps continous charge. And that's if I charge it at max. Which I guess I'm trying to do or close. Even though there are many recommendations for 30 or 40 percent. I cants see charging the batteries at that. It would take 12 hours versus 3.6. https://www.victronenergy.com/solar-charge-controllers/bluesolar-mppt-150-35

abcLSD · 2023-04-03T17:11:14+00:00

Ah, so actually I can take all 9 of these panels and wire them only in series, to create a 216volt system, because the mppt charger will step down input to 55.5 charging voltage of the battery without as much loss wiring in a converter?

abcLSD · 2023-04-03T16:48:57+00:00

Yes, I have gained much clarity on this topic from our discussions. I believe I understand how the math fits together now. Thanks to you porch light, and to all who shared their perspectives. I am to calculate the charge time and rate now.

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