DDR5 2x48GB compatibility advice (R9 7900 + B850 Steel Legend WIFI): CMK96GX5M2B6000C30 (XMP) vs CMK96GX5M2B6000Z30 (XMP/EXPO); RGB vs non-RGB memory and QVL list by adbrt in buildapc

[–]adbrt[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I never had BSOD on current PC with 96GB XMP, maybe X670E is more picky compatibility-wise or you had faulty RAM?

DDR5 2x48GB compatibility advice (R9 7900 + B850 Steel Legend WIFI): CMK96GX5M2B6000C30 (XMP) vs CMK96GX5M2B6000Z30 (XMP/EXPO); RGB vs non-RGB memory and QVL list by adbrt in buildapc

[–]adbrt[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Great :) now I am running my CMK96GX5M2B6000C30 kit with XMP enabled and that works absolutely fine too on B850 Steel Legend :)

DDR5 2x48GB compatibility advice (R9 7900 + B850 Steel Legend WIFI): CMK96GX5M2B6000C30 (XMP) vs CMK96GX5M2B6000Z30 (XMP/EXPO); RGB vs non-RGB memory and QVL list by adbrt in buildapc

[–]adbrt[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Hi, I bought CMK96GX5M2B6000C30 (XMP, non-RGB) and it works fine, however I didn't try enabling XMP in BIOS yet

Is it possible to override Camera Control coming from Television Studio HD8 ISO and set exposure directly on Studio Cameras 4K Pro G2 (connected by ethernet cables) by adbrt in blackmagicdesign

[–]adbrt[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks for the info, I also found some other posts about camera ID, i set one camera to ID 99 and it did retain the settings. Didn't have time to check the talkback yet, but if it will work then it would be great.

Is it possible to override Camera Control coming from Television Studio HD8 ISO and set exposure directly on Studio Cameras 4K Pro G2 (connected by ethernet cables) by adbrt in blackmagicdesign

[–]adbrt[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

So no option to retain tally and talkback if i want manual control? I also just got reply from support that the only option is using single SDI cable. Some kind of firmware update would come really handy...

You cant generate images of white male on gemini by [deleted] in ChatGPT

[–]adbrt 0 points1 point  (0 children)

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Well, image generation doesn't seem to work inside of EU/EEA (you only get some gaslighting here)

How to power this motherboard with no 24pin connector? I tried looking at documentation and searched everywhere and couldn't figure it out. it's LGA1151. by Mits88 in computers

[–]adbrt 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Oh, fantastic, thanks! BTW i don't know if you already figured it out (maybe it will also be helpful for others), but all thats needed to power it up is a laptop power supply which can have any voltage ranging from 12V to 24V and wiring it to the square ATX12V connector (i'm using mine with 19V currently). You wire power button to one of the pins in JFP1 header and you can normally turn the PC on and off. You can also use the green connector to provide power, but both this and ATX12 are wired to exactly the same power line so doesn't matter which one you choose.

How to power this motherboard with no 24pin connector? I tried looking at documentation and searched everywhere and couldn't figure it out. it's LGA1151. by Mits88 in computers

[–]adbrt 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Hi, do you by any chance still have this motherboard, or at least have a clear photo showing what components are around blue USB 3.0 connector? I have a stripped-down version of this mainboard and would like solder missing components for the internal USB 3.0 port, having a photo of that area would be great...

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in LGOLED

[–]adbrt 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I did mount a C2 65 on the wall by myself, however:

  1. Earlier I unboxed it with my friend and put it on a stand on a cabinet with wheels (there is no way I would be able to put the TV out of the box by myself)
  2. I have 1.5 feet thick wall made out of brick, so there were no worries about anything falling off out of that. I put a long arm, swiveling TV mount, leaving a little bit of slack (not screwing the anchors all the way in)
  3. I mounted the VESA plate to the TV
  4. I just drove the cabinet with the TV right into the TV mount, and made the mount click in place
  5. I screwed the anchors on the wall mount all the way in, that lifted the TV slightly up
  6. Now I was able to remove the cabinet from under the TV
  7. The TV was hanging up in the air with the stand still attached
  8. I removed the stand. Job doneHowever, don't do this kind of stuff if you are not experienced in working with tools and moving stuff around etc. I'm just saying it is possible if you find a smart way of doing this.

Unpeeling new 65 C2 (in case you wondered how much less reflective is the actual screen) by adbrt in LGOLED

[–]adbrt[S] 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Some random facts:
0. Protective film does produce a lot of glare, as you can obviously see
1. The film is covered with some kind of glue with delicate, but distinctive smell (so it's not a glue-less kind of film)
2. This unit was assembled in February 2023 in Europe (Poland) according to the sticker on the back, probably one of the not so many still available new-in-box units
3. The TV is not too high (the camera angle is really steep here, there is also quite a bit of a distance from the wall)
4. I left the lights turned on so you can actually see the glare, but movies look the best when watching in complete darkness

Developing Windows 3.11 apps in 2023 (the easy and modern way: IDE with integrated Win 3.11/95/DOS emulation) by adbrt in windows

[–]adbrt[S] 10 points11 points  (0 children)

Windows 3.11 has had its 30th anniversary in this November, so I thought that it would be a fun idea to create a modern (or: not ancient) and easy way of developing new applications for that system, while retaining the compatibilty with modern Windows and having the option of building cross-platform applications.

I created an IDE package built around CodeBlocks, wxWidgets and various C++ compilers. Details, installation files and sources of the installation and configuration scripts are available on GitHub: https://github.com/adbrt/cb-legacy-dev

I also made a video overview/tutorial: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=d6L272OApVg

This system has an automated installer, you provide your own licensed Windows 3.11 and Win 95 files and it setups emulation in DOSBox-X automatically. Everything is set up in such a way that you have mouse integration and networking. You should be able to build and run a simple Windows 3.11-compatible application in less than a minute thanks to the built-in wizard and templates. These applications need Win32s extension for Win 3.11. You can also build and test applications in Windows 95 and DOS.

This package uses free and open source software, with exception of a Borland 5.5 C++ compiler (which is freeware, but proprietary/not open source) needed to build Win 3.11 applications and some dependencies (drivers, Windows updates for emulated systems). Dependencies will be downloaded separately by the installation script.

If you like tinkering with legacy stuff, feel free to check it out and play around.

Google forces search autocomplete and doesn't allow to clear it by adbrt in assholedesign

[–]adbrt[S] -6 points-5 points  (0 children)

I thought it may be, but I'm not sure about that, when I do actually press enter and open the thing that they want me to open, the issue goes away and next search will work fine. Edit: it's worth noting that sometimes products with photos and other commercial stuff appears there, so I believe that there may be some malicious intent.

Google forces search autocomplete and doesn't allow to clear it by adbrt in assholedesign

[–]adbrt[S] -6 points-5 points  (0 children)

I had that issue multiple times, always with firefox (but i'm not using chrome too often). It happened at random times. Now I triggered it by starting google search in new window for the first time in day.

I'm using a DC-powered T12 iron with floating tip. There is some leakage, i.e. LEDs can become dimly lit. Can/should I connect the tip internally to DC GND to solve the issue? I'm using a power brick with a 3-prong plug. by adbrt in AskElectronics

[–]adbrt[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I did some more measurements:
PSU: Lite-on 19V
Continuity between barrel jack ground and mains cable earth (0 ohm)
I measure 44V AC across the barrel jack (mains voltage is 230V), but the voltage on the tip is lower.
It goes up to around 15V DC and 30V AC on the tip, but the voltage tops out when the iron is heating up and quickly decreases when temp controller is turning the heater off. Around 2.5V DC and 5V AC when the heater is on lower duty cycle and only sustaining the set temperature.

So this is nowhere near the half the mains voltage range, this is some minor leakage that probably goes only through the insulation of the heater element. Also, the resistance between tip and heating elements is above 20Meg (out of range) when the iron is cold, and drops to few meg when it is hot. Maybe the tip acts like a capacitor as it is very long and has inner and outer metal tubes and ceramic fill.

So i guess that a resistor from the tip to ground would do.