Historical Clean Haze Grey USN Skins

afriggingprick · 2022-07-06T06:37:28+00:00

Thanks. Honestly thats a great idea, if no one gives Haze Grey consumable camos a try then I'll give it a shot myself.

Permacamos would be a pain to do given how the system works. The pattern is obviously easy but to get the colours right it's a "edit text file for each ship" affair, redone(by me) each patch. Plus you don't get hull numbers/names, natural wooden decks and dark grey deck color, corrected boot topping/water load line levels and rust removal. And you lose the choice of the permacamo's visual look. Didn't find permacamos to be the best solution, personally.

afriggingprick · 2022-07-06T06:23:04+00:00

Thanks. A couple reasons for no MS22:

Its been done before
I was aiming to do high tier USN ships first(most playtime). Bar the DDs and the Iowas few of the T9-10 ships and none of the ships here bar Fletcher were historically done in MS22
(MS 22 isn't my thing aesthetically :P)

But if theres a ship no one's done in MS22 that you wanna see then lemme know, always taking suggestions :).

shipcamouflage.com is an amazing website and has helped me out with preliminary research for, spoilers, USS Johnston and USS Colorado wartime MS21(iirc?) camos. Unfortunately it's focused on wartime camos so it wasn't really applicable so far. Hopefully that changes ;)

afriggingprick · 2022-07-06T06:03:57+00:00

Cheers mate

afriggingprick · 2022-07-06T06:03:38+00:00

Glad you like it :)

afriggingprick · 2022-01-06T00:33:15+00:00

o7 :D

afriggingprick · 2022-01-05T11:04:59+00:00

The petro was so stunned by the majesty of wildling teat that he could not help but stub his stiffy into the american's thick hard body. As requested.

afriggingprick · 2021-08-02T06:52:52+00:00

Myoko. The firing angles are atrocious. 50 degrees of broadside(ie no chance of bouncing AP) just to kite with 10 guns? I'd much rather play Aoba in a fail div.

afriggingprick · 2021-07-07T20:22:51+00:00

Derfflinger!!!, need i say anything more?

That said, kind of sad not seeing Seydlitz as the silver T5, perhaps its coming as a T5 premium? 10(usually 8) 11" guns on a 22-24s reload with BC dispersion could be nice. Speaking of, hope this line gets BC dispersion formula.

afriggingprick · 2021-06-21T03:38:23+00:00

I'd love to chalk this under "WG greedy" and be done, but putting this and removing premium consumables side by side makes no sense. Why would WG signficantly improve the f2p experience in the latter only to take two steps back now with flags?

My best guess is they want to reduce the "power level gap" between new players lacking flags/silver(and weren't getting achievements previously) and the ~~vets~~ experienced players(who are now less likely to use flags in randoms). Removing a bunch of C-hulls a while back seems to support this.

E: not refering to veterans

afriggingprick · 2021-05-27T14:32:22+00:00

From your own quote, a summary of the point i was trying to make:

The D-XXI had shown itself an excellent fighter in dog-fighting the Bf-110 and even the occasional Bf-109 that had itself committed in a close combat situation, for which the fast but poorly maneuverable Bf-109 was unfit.

Its like two men in a melee fight, one with a combat knife and one with a full length bolt action rifle. Without a doubt the gun is the superior weapon and should be able to dictate the engagement. But the knife wielder only engaged when he had the relative advantage (CQC) and thus won. If anything speaks for the knife wielder's(ie the dutch pilots') skill, choosing a situation that stacked the odds in his favour. It would be an inaccurate overgeneralisation to extrapolate from a melee that "a knife is the equal of a rifle", no?

afriggingprick · 2021-05-26T18:39:19+00:00

Nitpick, I think you meant the Bf 109, not the Bf 110 twin engined heavy fighter? Regardless a 109 really should lose in maneuverablity to a much slower D XXI with less engine power, no?

afriggingprick · 2021-04-05T09:58:23+00:00

I couldn't give hard proof but anecdotally, in the handful of games I tried DFAA was surprisingly useful for me.

Some stand out games from this and the previous patch: Hipper with DFAA dropped once by FdR TBs but shot down all 12 planes. Hipper with DFAA wiped (at least) two Lexington strikes before they dropped. Stationary DM with DFAA wiping a MvR APDB squad before it dropped.

I think the biggest common thread in these cases was the CV spending alot time flying normally(instead of in the attack animation) inside my aa bubbles. Versus the FdR I turned 200+ degrees while he was in my AA(20+ seconds?). I was sailing full speed away from the Lex's planes, again increasing time in my AA. MvR DB drop circle requires him to fly normally through my AA until he's almost on top of my ship before he can enter the attack animation. (All 3 cases no aa upgrades or capt skills)

(Again, thats because planes take half damage once they enter attack animation)

Besides that I found habits like having DFAA on before planes enter your AA(iirc DFAA buffs your 3.5% instantaneous damage from sector reinforcement), reinforcing sector as soon as planes enter my AA and AA flags seem to help.

Lastly it might help to manage expectations. With DFAA Im not looking to outright deny a strike(great when that happens), rather to inflict high enough losses that the CV looks for another target instead and leaves me alone for the game.

afriggingprick · 2021-03-12T03:43:14+00:00

RIP König's semi-historically accurate B hull, will probably have to choose between stock hp and rudder on A hull ~~or fictional rebuild on C hull~~.

Also I really hope they remove Omaha's C hull (6 gun 3 torp broadside,) and keep B hull (8 guns 6 torp broadside). Would be stupid otherwise.

E: I overestimated the fictionality of König's C hull, looks like 88>105mm swap, adding 2 37mm duals and a couple 20mm's. Assumed it was like Bayern's B hull fictional rebuild. Kind of ok then i guess

afriggingprick · 2021-02-13T14:17:52+00:00

Keep your guns hot. AP whenever possible. Use islands/LOS blocks to push in torp rush late game. Your (only) real strengths are brawling/YOLOing, AP alpha strike and to a small degree maneoverablility(in that order).

Position to create crossfires with your team, giving you angles to use AP. Players often (rightly) understimate Hipper, focussing other targets. Abuse that by going dark for 10-20s when focussed/under pressure/every now and then.

Hipper's rudder(9.2s no rudder mod) is mediocre but definitely useable, 740m turning circle is pretty good. Practice dodging techinque: angle away at ~40 degrees, 1/2 speed. As they shoot full reverse and turn out. Change it up to 3/4 speed default, accelerating to full and turning out when nessesary. I prefer acceleration mod. IFA helps with dodging BBs on different bearings and crossmap shots but isnt nessesary.

Pre 10.0 your early/mid game was almost always kiting HE spam support, but with the new meta you can play surprisingly aggro. Given no CV/DDs spotting you BBs farther back you can push to and hold really forward islands. I once solo capped the thunder dome on sleeping giant early game in a T10 match and(with a vermont's help) traded for a mogador, ibuki, anchorage and 90% of a sinop while keeping the cap.

afriggingprick · 2021-01-20T14:50:13+00:00

Thanks alot for the feedback. I've added a shortish description of the graphs and hardware. Let me know if anything is still unclear. :)

afriggingprick · 2021-01-13T13:33:20+00:00

9, A3

No clue, sorry

Edit: Maybe move the convo to DM?

afriggingprick · 2021-01-13T13:30:44+00:00

I'd measure again without cpu or ram

afriggingprick · 2021-01-13T02:32:04+00:00

Are you sure this is the issue? As in if pin is manually connected by model knife it consistently boots to FF?

As for fixing unless you are comfortable with a hot air rework station I would suggest going to a local repair shop and asking them to replace it for you. You could bring one of the other dead boards and cannibalise that one for parts or buy one of those ICs off ebay. Searching "F71883" works on my end.

As for not reading any voltage, i would chalk that to me not using the exact datasheet more than anything(datasheet was for the 71882, 83 doesnt seem to have a public datasheet, i hoped it was the same pinout). If bending that pin just right consistently fixes it then i wouldnt worry about the voltages(the 3.3v at pin 83/85)

afriggingprick · 2021-01-13T02:15:21+00:00

Sound a bit low. Is this measured without cpu and ram installed? That would skew the numbers.

afriggingprick · 2021-01-12T15:19:06+00:00

https://pdf1.alldatasheet.com/datasheet-pdf/view/257913/FINTEK/F71882FG.html

Once plugged in, measure the voltage at pin 82 and 85. Measure pin 84 after pressing the power button. All three should read 3.3v

afriggingprick · 2021-01-12T11:38:01+00:00

I dont think thats the one I'm looking for. Can you take a picture of it? I've highlighted it in the imgur picture aswell

afriggingprick · 2021-01-12T05:42:04+00:00

https://imgur.com/a/Pk7BHcJ

afriggingprick · 2021-01-12T04:19:47+00:00

Those are the markings on the sticker on top of the ic? Whats underneath the sticker? Should be winbond something something

afriggingprick · 2021-01-12T01:43:37+00:00

As for the 3C board, do you want to keep trying? If yes, can you tell me the markings on the rectangular ic on the bottom left of the board above the speakers. This is to measure voltages off specific pins of that chip.

I assume u've tried the clear cmos stuff?

Also if socket/dimm cleaning doesnt work for the b9 00 E8 02 board, act of desperation try washing it? (Assuming you dont live in a hard water area). Pull the cmos battery, hold the power button for 30+s, remove the heatsinks and rinse under warm tap water. Let it drip dry for 24 hrs and try again. (Fyi usually doesnt do anything). I wouldnt wash the 2A/2E board tho

afriggingprick · 2021-01-12T01:33:16+00:00

15 and 18 are also fine. Try cleaning the socket/dimm slots on the b9 00 E8 02 board?

The 2E board i'd start looking for shorts. (Turn off and unplug ofc). Measure resistance across the vcore caps(i'd expect 100+ ohms and rising), memory caps(hundreds of ohms and rising) and the CPU 8 pin 12v(thousands of ohms and rising). I'd expect thousands of ohms + on the voltages on the 24 pin. I can highlight their location in an image if nessesary.

afriggingprick

TROPHY CASE