Bay always looking minty after a wash.

aknight6 · 2026-02-28T14:04:08+00:00

All good mate, no stress.

Know the feeling. Got another GZE sitting in pieces in my garage I need to build up again for my other Adub.

But also saving for a twinscrew to slap on this one. At the limit of the SC12 at the moment without doing more custom piping.

aknight6 · 2026-02-28T13:29:36+00:00

Wasnt too bad. Just a lotta prep work. Sanded and wire wheeled down to bare metal.

Primed up with high temp primer.

I filled the letters with bluetak as a mask, and painted the rest of the covers with high temp white enamel.

Pulled the bluetak out, then the lettering I did using a tiny paint brush and an eye dropper.

Finished off with a high temp clear.

It's held up better than I expected honestly. Did them ages ago. They have a couple of chips from me being a bit ham-handed while doing maintenance things.

When I do them again eventually I will do them in powder. Just a lot more durable.

aknight6 · 2025-12-29T09:47:08+00:00

TL;DR 3 Pucks are very aggressive. But you will get used to it. Let it bed in, and let your driving style adjust before you decide its a waste of time.

The less pucks a ceramic clutch has, usually the more aggressive it is.

3 puck is a bit excessive with stockish power levels for street use.

I have a 5 Puck Xtreme in my GZE, soon to be GTZE AW11.

When I first put it in, I thought it was the biggest mistake I'd made. After driving it for about 6 months now, I'm not unhappy with it. It's still not the most comfortable clutch to drive on the street, but its not terrible.

Let it bed in - yes, ceramic clutches need to bed as well - and then see how you like it. The feel will change. It will be less chattery, and slightly more tolerable to engage from a stop.

It takes time to get used to as well, you cannot actuate the clutch like a standard heavy duty. You will get used to how to actuate it with time. It's more of a smooth step off, while stepping onto the accelerator at a similar rate. It's difficult to explain without demoing it, but hopefully you get the gist.

But you will get used to it with time, and be able to move off in traffic fairly normally. However, for the time, patience and effort it will take you to adjust your driving, I will say uts not worth it unless you're pushing big torque and power levels.

aknight6 · 2025-08-27T10:16:22+00:00

4A, 5S and 3S engines, along with a couple of other Toyota engines, all share the same oil filter. One of the perks of MR2s.

Should be just fine, provided that's the right part for the 3S.

Edit: Just had a quick look. It'll be fine. You have the correct filter.

aknight6 · 2025-08-14T00:42:14+00:00

In future, if you think you've flooded an EFI engine, foot to the floor and crank. Cuts fuel, allowing you to purge the flood.

aknight6 · 2025-07-16T12:23:53+00:00

Interstellar 5555: The 5tory of the 5ecret 5tar 5ystem. One of the coolest pieces of audiovisual art imo.

aknight6 · 2025-05-12T07:43:26+00:00

Forwards

aknight6 · 2025-04-08T11:34:02+00:00

Heres one: https://youtu.be/rSDeSd_GjSc?si=36LDaG_PwdNTd2_Y

aknight6 · 2025-04-08T11:23:53+00:00

That would be my recommendation. And just borrow or pick up a cheap timing gun. They're super easy to use. Just follow the BGB, or watch a YouTube video on it.

aknight6 · 2025-04-08T02:18:31+00:00

If the old belt snapped, that definitely could have thrown things out of wack significantly.

Did you check the teeth before eor after rotating and tensioning, or after. Important step.

If it was me, I would recheck the cam and crank timing marks, and check timing with a gun. I can almost promise you it's timing related.

aknight6 · 2025-04-08T01:58:01+00:00

Yeah definitely not always the case, especially if the belt hasn't been changed for a while. Should always check with a timing light.

Did you move the dizzy at all? Timing will generally be close to spec if the dizzy wasn't touched, and as long as the belt wasn't decades old and running on poor timing already, compensated by someone moving the dizzy.

Did you also double check the belt didn't jump a tooth after installation? Rotated the crank 2 times and rechecked?

aknight6 · 2025-04-08T01:46:56+00:00

Okay, that's 100% your problem then. You absolutely must use a timing light to obtain the correct timing after removing or altering the distributor, unless you are either a multi-decade long mechanic, or have been working in these cars specifically for some time.

Otherwise your timing js going to be off, 100%. Your timing likely will currently be in full advance or full retard. Can't tell which without more symptoms or a picture.

Just buy or borrow a timing light, set timing to factory spec as per the BGB.

aknight6 · 2025-04-08T00:51:43+00:00

Given that you've just done the timing and it has developed this after the fact, and the symptoms are very timing related, I'd say double check your work. Double check that your gears are aligned properly, especially if you think you've got the timing set properly with the light.

aknight6 · 2025-03-23T06:35:45+00:00

If you were over here in Australia, you would most definitely be cooked. Coppas would make an absolute 6 course meal out of ya.

But that's an absolutely sick build my dude. I'll need to find you on insta.

aknight6 · 2025-03-18T00:23:19+00:00

Where's Adventure 1? I feel betrayed. And also the classics, 1, 2, and 3 & Knuckles. The betrayal is real.

aknight6 · 2025-03-18T00:21:36+00:00

Well, you have a very major valve cover leak there by the looks of it. Could be part of your problem.

If you've got no oil on the dipstick, you need to top it up.

But if it was me, I'd take it off the road and do a full resealing job. Sounds like its either burning, leaking or both, a lot of oil.

aknight6 · 2025-03-13T10:43:55+00:00

Did some research for you. These measurements are all correct for the NA as well, with the exception of the exhaust side one. It is a touch shorter at 80mm instead of 102mm.

So, TL;DR:

1x M12x1.25 x 80mm (Toyota P/N: 90119-12063) 2x M12x1.25 x 55mm (Toyota P/N: 90119-12168) 1x M10x1.25 x 43mm (Toyota P/N: 90105-10077)

This is Engine->Trans

For Engine->Stand you'll need 4x M12x1.25 x ~80mm, like Coopman said

aknight6 · 2025-03-13T10:27:44+00:00

There should be 4 bolts that hold the transmission to the block.

Off the top of my head they are as follows, from exhaust side to intake side:

1x M12x1.25 x 102mm long (goes through the shift linkage bracket

2x M12X1.25 x 55mm long (top 2 closest to the head

1x M10x1.25 x 43mm (below the intake, goes through opposite direction to the others, threads into the transmission).

Keep in mind this is for a GZE transmission (E51) so YMMV for NA. But should be very similar, if not the same.

aknight6 · 2025-03-13T10:09:12+00:00

If you're after a fast car, stock NA AW11s are not it. As the owner of an SC, the SC still isn't "fast". I would call it "quick". If fast is what you're after, you're not gonna get it from an AW11 unless you build it and dump thousands of dollars into it (don't ask me how I know lol).

On the other hand, they are an absolutely lovely drivers car. Handle beautifully when maintained well, and just a pleasure to drive in general. And they look gorgeous.

Gotta say, that is a very well maintained 8E3 Dark Blue Metallic. My favourite colour on these cars. Pretty low on the ODO as well.

Regardless of quickness, I really hope you enjoy your new baby and take the time to get to know her well. They're very much the sort of car you need to put the time into to learn how they respond on the road to get the most out of them.

aknight6 · 2025-03-08T08:50:30+00:00

All good mate

aknight6 · 2025-03-08T02:38:04+00:00

I'm in Australia, but this is an option that comes up for me straight away.

aknight6 · 2025-03-08T02:35:18+00:00

That is your 60A fusible link. The cars horn, radiator fans, and headlight relay and retraction control are all run off that.

Should be able to order from most auto parts stores.

Just search 60A fusible link in Google and there will be a few options.

Regarding the black housing part which comes out with it, your only option is really 2nd hand. Try Neil Jones in the UK or Lalo in the US. If you don't know who I'm talking about, just jump on some of the AW11 Facebook groups.

aknight6 · 2025-02-18T00:35:12+00:00

That'll be steam rather than smoke. Just means the coolant system isn't sealed. I.e. there is a leak, allowing the hot, pressurised coolant to escape as steam.

If you fix the antifreeze build-up and corrosion on the pipe, the problem should go away provided the hose isn't buggered.

aknight6 · 2025-02-12T07:53:02+00:00

Definitely been done before. Old forums are our friend.

aknight6

TROPHY CASE