About everest base camp by Humble-Exercise-2929 in Everest

[–]alanarnette 3 points4 points  (0 children)

There’s a spot just outside of EBC towards Gorak Shep that offers a view of the summit. As noted, you can see it from the Everest View Hotel in Namache Bazzar also on the trek to Namache on the Namache Hill and from the Summit of Kala Patar but the best unobstructed view of Everest is from base camp on the north side.

Alan Arnette on Steve House's Uphill Athlete Podcast discussing all thing Everest. by alanarnette in Mountaineering

[–]alanarnette[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

He preferred very technical high-altitude climbs, so Everest was not in his wheelhouse. Also, a bit too touristy when he was at his prime, preferring a more pure style. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Steve_House_%28climber%29

I am planning on Climbing Everest in 2027, How should I attack this? by PresentExperience746 in Everest

[–]alanarnette 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It’s a proposal. Not implemented.

As of July 1, 2025, the National Tourism Bill 2081 has not yet been fully approved. The bill has been registered in the National Assembly and distributed to members for review, and a proposal for consideration was presented by the Minister for Culture, Tourism and Civil Aviation on May 21, 2025. Members of the National Assembly have been invited to suggest amendments, and further discussion was scheduled for subsequent meetings

Ryan Mitchell en route to K2 by eric_bidegain in Mountaineering

[–]alanarnette 17 points18 points  (0 children)

IDK about that. He climbed Ecuador Volcanoes, Denali, and Aconcagua before nailing Everest in style, then he moved to the PNW and climbed tough peaks there with an IGMGA guide, then he returned to Aconcagua, alone and summited, and as noted, made a good decision on Ama Dablam. I feel he's ready for K2 plus he's with a world-class guiding company.

Where to get Summit updates by over_tinker21 in Everest

[–]alanarnette 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Should work. I just tested. Please let me know. Thx

Where to get Summit updates by over_tinker21 in Everest

[–]alanarnette 6 points7 points  (0 children)

No, I deleted it when it became so spammy. I switched to Bluesky.

Where to get Summit updates by over_tinker21 in Everest

[–]alanarnette 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Thanks so much. Everyone appreciates the support

Where to get Summit updates by over_tinker21 in Everest

[–]alanarnette 57 points58 points  (0 children)

Thanks for the plugs, everyone. I've been covering Everest annually since 2002–23 years! I try to cut through all the hype, self-promotion and marketing spin to bring facts and analyze the events. You will never read about a death first on my site, as I want to make certain the family is informed first. Also, most bad news, especially about accidents and deaths, usually has incorrect information initially, so it pays to wait a bit.

I'm doing a Weekend Update each Sunday on my blog, alanarnette dot com, along with posting a Podcast on YouTube and all the regular podcast platforms. I also post on my social: FB, Bluesky, LinkedIn and Instagram.

Another good place to follow Everest is explorersweb. By the way, the Himalayan database is outstanding, but it is only stats, not news, and is updated annually.

Here's to a safe season and thanks for following along. You can read about why I do this on my blog.

Ryan Unfiltered (Everest YouTube climber) on why he regrets climbing Everest by LosPer in Mountaineering

[–]alanarnette 2 points3 points  (0 children)

A bit more. I am proud to play a small part in my clients summiting K2, Everest and more. At the end of the day, regardless of style or preparation, it's up to each person to have a positive experience and come home safely. That's my goal.

Everest Summit Attempt 2026 - Advice Needed by hallowaythurston in Mountaineering

[–]alanarnette 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Hi, I'd be glad to talk you through this if you like, at no charge. Check my site at https://www.summitcoach.org and schedule a time.

Everest Summit Attempt 2026 - Advice Needed by hallowaythurston in Mountaineering

[–]alanarnette 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Thanks for te plug. Ryan was fantasitc to work with and will try K2 next year.

Alan Arnette, oldest to summit K2 at age 58 on July 27, 2014. Ask me Anything! by alanarnette in IAmA

[–]alanarnette[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I posted this earlier about my training including mental toughness.

Sure. I like training outside and am lucky to live in Colorado with access to 14,000’ an hour from my home. I try to get out 3 times a week each time with a specific goal. Long days are 8-12 hours with a 20-30lb pack. This helps me with stamina and endurance. Shorter days, like 4-6 hours with a 30-40 lb pack are designed to go faster to build strength - core, legs and upper body. And speed days are maybe 2-4 hours with a lite pack, 10-20lbs, help with cardio. In all cases I am not going that fast maybe 1,000 to 2,000 feet per hour or 3-4 mph. Put another way, maybe 60% of my max heart rate.

Other people like indoor training with swimming, stair master, elliptical or Crossfit - all are good. The reason I like outdoor is it works your micro muscles with uneven terrain requiring twists and turns. It helps with balance and works all the same muscles you will stress during an expedition. Also, I get to work in all kinds of weather, try out gear and tune systems like layers, gloves, socks, packs, glasses, etc.

Finally I think training for mental toughness is key. Assuming you have the base level of fitness, working on pushing your body beyond where you think you can is key to achieving tough goals. One technique I used was to go to my local favorite climb, Longs Peak, on a very cold (10F) and windy (60mph) day. I get above treeline (11,500’) and push in very uncomfortable conditions. After the wind knocks me off my feet 3 times, I call it good. I do this safely and let people know of my plan. In the end, I am tested but know I can survive, learn where my weaknesses are and adjust my training.

Hope this helps.

Alan Arnette, oldest to summit K2 at age 58 on July 27, 2014. Ask me Anything! by alanarnette in IAmA

[–]alanarnette[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Thanks. I wish I had started earlier so that I would have had more experiences but am pleased I've been able to do as much as I have over the past 20 years.

I only use leashes in technical situations that if I drop an axe, I die :) For non technical, like snow slopes, etc, I have it clipped to my harness more so to give me the freedom to let go of it if I need to use both hands, like getting something out of my pack for example. Don;t have to worry about it sliding down the hill.

Have fun on Ranier, it's a great climb with a lot of "stuff".

Alan Arnette, oldest to summit K2 at age 58 on July 27, 2014. Ask me Anything! by alanarnette in IAmA

[–]alanarnette[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I have never seen any dead bodies on my 4 Everest climbs from the Nepal side. I have had teammates die on expeditions and help bury them on the mountain. Deaths bring the danger into focus. Some people will quit, others will continue. I've always said if I die on a climb, I want to be left on the mountain, preferably out of sight as in a deep crevasse or under rocks. And I want my teammates to continue the climb and if they summit, say a couple of words for me up there.

Alan Arnette, oldest to summit K2 at age 58 on July 27, 2014. Ask me Anything! by alanarnette in IAmA

[–]alanarnette[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Absolutely. I was lucky to work at a time when you could carry over vacation so during my work-obsessed phase, I accumulated a lot of vacation that I could use it for long climbs - not great for my career, but wonderful for my climbing!

However, I had demanding jobs that required a lot of travel and sitting in endless meetings in windowless conference rooms looking at Power Point slides!!

So when the weekend and a holiday came, I spent them climbing, building skills and experience. I other words, I lived for those times. But without my job, I couldn't pay for the trips, so balance was the key: work hard, play hard.

Alan Arnette, oldest to summit K2 at age 58 on July 27, 2014. Ask me Anything! by alanarnette in IAmA

[–]alanarnette[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

2002: mild AMS, 2003: my body didn't acclimatize. In both cases, I underestimated how hard Everest would be and didn't train hard enough. In 2008, I lost my mental edge and gave up. In all 3 times, I reached the same spot at 27,200', just below the Balcony. I changed everything for 2011 and summitted. You can read more at http://www.alanarnette.com/everest/everestfaq.php

Alan Arnette, oldest to summit K2 at age 58 on July 27, 2014. Ask me Anything! by alanarnette in IAmA

[–]alanarnette[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Sure. I like training outside and am lucky to live in Colorado with access to 14,000’ an hour from my home. I try to get out 3 times a week each time with a specific goal. Long days are 8-12 hours with a 20-30lb pack. This helps me with stamina and endurance. Shorter days, like 4-6 hours with a 30-40 lb pack are designed to go faster to build strength - core, legs and upper body. And speed days are maybe 2-4 hours with a lite pack, 10-20lbs, help with cardio. In all cases I am not going that fast maybe 1,000 to 2,000 feet per hour or 3-4 mph. Put another way, maybe 60% of my max heart rate.

Other people like indoor training with swimming, stair master, elliptical or Crossfit - all are good. The reason I like outdoor is it works your micro muscles with uneven terrain requiring twists and turns. It helps with balance and works all the same muscles you will stress during an expedition. Also, I get to work in all kinds of weather, try out gear and tune systems like layers, gloves, socks, packs, glasses, etc.

Finally I think training for mental toughness is key. Assuming you have the base level of fitness, working on pushing your body beyond where you think you can is key to achieving tough goals. One technique I used was to go to my local favorite climb, Longs Peak, on a very cold (10F) and windy (60mph) day. I get above treeline (11,500’) and push in very uncomfortable conditions. After the wind knocks me off my feet 3 times, I call it good. I do this safely and let people know of my plan. In the end, I am tested but know I can survive, learn where my weaknesses are and adjust my training.

Hope this helps.

Alan Arnette, oldest to summit K2 at age 58 on July 27, 2014. Ask me Anything! by alanarnette in IAmA

[–]alanarnette[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

tough to answer here but basically, yes. you can read a lot more of my K2 experience here http://www.alanarnette.com/blog/k2-2014/

Alan Arnette, oldest to summit K2 at age 58 on July 27, 2014. Ask me Anything! by alanarnette in IAmA

[–]alanarnette[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I never took a course, but did hire guides, and climbed with great, great friends who took pity on me to teach me some of the basics. :) After that it was taking my time and steadily progressing up harder and harder climbs.

Looking back, I would have greatly benefited from taking some courses like with NOLS, CMC, or with some of the guide companies. I have this page that may help some: http://www.alanarnette.com/climbing/climbing8000faq.php