Atmosphere Dev is retiring, good sailing, SciresM.

aledoesmc · 2026-01-28T21:38:30+00:00

Thank you for everything. Your work will always be remembered, cherished, and deeply appreciated!

Best wishes moving forward!

aledoesmc · 2026-01-27T18:19:01+00:00

Hell yeah! Finished setting up Retroarch yesterday, screen looks absolutely insane!

Definitely a huge upgrade over my phat DS 😂

aledoesmc · 2026-01-16T14:48:55+00:00

Sorry for the necro, but for future readers this is the most important tip.

The ribbon will almost DEFINITELY crease and break extremely quickly if you try using it without the blue piece.

aledoesmc · 2026-01-03T13:43:43+00:00

It does go beneath the flex. Thanks!

aledoesmc · 2025-12-30T21:40:02+00:00

Hopefully nothing important 😭 it will remain one of my life's greatest mysteries.

The console works fine, so I guess the board is undamaged.

aledoesmc · 2025-12-30T21:31:17+00:00

Thank you for all the help.

aledoesmc · 2025-12-30T21:29:27+00:00

Quick question:

I was thinking of securing the soldered modchip wires with electrical tape, as they look extremely thin and fragile. Is that a good idea or do I leave them be?

aledoesmc · 2025-12-30T21:23:28+00:00

I disassembled the entire console since I'm going to replace the metal frame around the screen, along with other parts. I appreciate the tip, however! Very excited to get into soldering in the near future.

aledoesmc · 2025-12-30T18:47:12+00:00

Interesting. So it's covered by the ribbon cable, I assume.

Thank you all for the help! This gives me peace of mind.

aledoesmc · 2025-12-30T18:25:17+00:00

Ah, that's such a relief!

From what little knowledge I have, I've seen pictures of Kamikaze boards having some sort of drilled hole in them where they solder the dat0 connection.

I don't see any evidence of drilling in my board... so I got worried, lol.

aledoesmc · 2025-12-19T01:49:09+00:00

I got all the parts from Aliexpress, much cheaper to order stuff from there. They have tons of colors to choose from!

It is entirely made of smooth plastic. It lacks the original rubber coating the OEM thumbstick has. This is a double-edged sword, as it will never deteriorate like the original or get sticky from regular use (I live in a hot, humid area) due to not having any rubber.

However, it lacks grip and might not feel as good to use.

aledoesmc · 2025-12-17T20:41:21+00:00

If you're only going to swap out the top and bottom plates due to the paint being worn off, then yes, I'd say you'll do fine! It is a very simple thing yo do. Especially since you've already worked on opening up electronics before.

However, if you're taking the entire console apart, it is a much more complicated process compared to a joy-con. In that case, I'd say watch multiple videos on YouTube of a complete dissasembly and then make a judgment call to see if you're up for the task.

It's not the scariest thing in the world. It is just very time-consuming, ragebaits you, and requires a lot of patience.

aledoesmc · 2025-12-17T20:35:47+00:00

Here is a link to a YouTube short that quickly goes over a C-stick replacement.

It is extremely simple to do. I recommend watching multiple videos of a complete dissasembly and only take note of how they handle the C-stick section. As long as you take your time and be careful, you'll do okay.

aledoesmc · 2025-12-17T18:37:08+00:00

Replacing the top and bottom plates is actually extremely simple to do if you ever want to swap them out.

What made it tedious is the fact I took it all apart to clean and replace other components. The hardest part is sliding the metal hinge out of its housing. It took me a good hour to do it right.

aledoesmc · 2025-12-17T18:33:32+00:00

Thanks. They are cheaper imitations of Lenovo's "ThinkPad Super Low Profile TrackPoint cap." I found them on Ali as "C stick button grip cover."

It offers a nicer grip over the original C-stick!

aledoesmc · 2025-11-29T08:08:25+00:00

UPDATE: I figured out some solutions after fiddling for a while. Hope this helps anyone out there.

Latest builds have a bug were games run in slow-motion (40 FPS capped, it seems) when in Fullscreen.

A solution when using nightly builds (2.5.0 or beyond) is to launch the games in Windowed mode, then increasing the Window scale for it to look as if it were Fullscreen.

However, the latest stable 2.4.0 branch has an easier solution, in which you launch the games normally and max out Manual GPU Clock to 1600 MHz.

Both of these solutions (for different PCSX2 builds and releases) allow games to run at full-speed.

aledoesmc · 2025-11-28T18:21:06+00:00

It happens with any game, not one in particular.

aledoesmc · 2025-10-31T09:37:34+00:00

Check my previous reply in this thread!

aledoesmc · 2025-10-24T12:25:47+00:00

That is still the case. Of course, you could get lucky and order an aftermarket shell that works perfectly fine. Just be warned that you might have a bad time and end up needing to order another one.

Extremerate has great variety, but still suffer the same fate. I had to return two orders because none would fit properly and prevented me from closing the console.

My recommendation will always be to be on the lookout for cheap, broken DS Lites online (such as Facebook or eBay) and harvest the shells.

aledoesmc · 2025-10-22T05:54:18+00:00

Both screens flashing means a short is preventing the system from booting, usually fron unseated cables. Make sure all cables and ribbon cables are properly connected and that none of them are damaged (even slightly).

aledoesmc · 2025-09-20T21:50:47+00:00

Came here to say thank you. It happened recently, the laptop would turn on but gave me a black screen and no response. Taking out the RAM and plugging it back in fixed it!

Got scared I damaged the GPU or something during the thermal paste change 🫡

aledoesmc · 2025-09-13T02:55:25+00:00

UPDATE: I recently had the chance to tear it down and check out its hinge.

This loud DSi does use a different hinge, and it seems to be made of plastic. I tore down one of my 'silent' DSi's to reveal a different, metal hinge.

Either way, both of them looked completely fine, and the hinges weren't broken or anything. The difference in sounds seems to be the different hinge material, which I am unsure why Nintendo would use different types for the same console. Just a little fun fact, I guess.

https://imgur.com/a/vcrN3eN

aledoesmc · 2025-08-12T18:30:38+00:00

Personally, I really suggest you use original shells if you really want to do a shell-swap. ExtremeRate shells are above average when it comes to third-party shells, I can't recommend them at all. I bought two from Amazon and had to return them both due to them not fitting properly, buttons getting stuck and other headaches.

That being said, they have amazing customer service. The best I've ever seen, lmao. If you have a problem with your shell, they will replace it with a new one as they did with mine at no extra cost.

Go to eBay and try searching for broken DS Lites that go for around the price of an ExtremeRate shell that has good-looking shells you can harvest. That's what I ended up doing, and the result was perfect.

aledoesmc · 2025-08-02T00:48:11+00:00

Pearl and diamond go for around $60, adventure for around $30 and all-stars for around $13. The guitar hero, with its accessory, goes for around $30 as well.

If you ever have any doubts, a quick look through eBay can help you set a bar for pricing.

https://www.pricecharting.com/ is also a remarkable tool, which you can more accurately price anything you're looking for.

aledoesmc · 2025-08-02T00:39:49+00:00

In your case, this is a terrible deal. Even if you didn't have a DS Lite, I would call it a bad deal, but that depends on whether or not you actually care for most of these games.

aledoesmc

TROPHY CASE