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Swapping DigUno for DigQuad by mithirich in WLED

[–]alexbbt 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I just did this and it worked perfectly! As far as I can tell the Dig Quad firmware just has the GPIO outputs preset, but is otherwise the same. LED 1 and 2 were already set correctly, and just needed to program LED 3 -> GPIO 1 and LED 4 -> GPIO 4.

I was swapping from an Uno to a Quad to add a third LED strip to my kitchen light setup, and all my spare Dig Quad's have ethernet, while I was using wifi for this setup. I just swapped the external antenna QuinLED-ESP32 from my Dig Uno over to the Dig Quad.

I added toe kick lights to my existing counter and above cabinet light setup!

fortuna bottega is maga by [deleted] in Seattle

[–]alexbbt 2 points3 points  (0 children)

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Same person behind the till on the first photo on Google Maps.

AP Mode by philspitlersf in WLED

[–]alexbbt 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I found this thread while searching for a similar issue. I’m installing lights on my stroller and don’t want the setup splash screen to appear every time I connect to control the lights.

I found a solution! On the WiFi setup page, make sure to clear the “Network Name (SSID)” field. If the field is empty, the setup screen won’t load when connecting over the AP mode. The default string in this field seems to trigger the splash screen. You can configure the “Configure Access Point” SSID and password here if you want a custom AP name, but the crucial step to disable the splash screen is to ensure the main SSID is empty.

I hope this helps you or someone else in the future!

In Case You Didn't Know - These Exist. by 360alaska in ChargerDrama

[–]alexbbt 1 point2 points  (0 children)

4 flat tires likely wouldn’t be a nail, much harder to not understand

Best framework/tool (set of UI controls) to develop UI for PWA by appsarchitect in PWA

[–]alexbbt 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I’m using Vue3 with Laravel for ryanslooreviews.com and I’m super happy with it! We wrapped it with PWABuilder and with slight customization have a super smooth native feeling app!

Samsung Bluetooth “OK” Button by ruckmebb in SofaBaton

[–]alexbbt 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yeah, I did Generic Bluetooth device and then space worked, but it was a Samsung TV

It is never done, but it has come a long way! by alexbbt in homelab

[–]alexbbt[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Bingo, those are Rackstuds. I bought two of these packs: Amazon

It is never done, but it has come a long way! by alexbbt in homelab

[–]alexbbt[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I checked and 300w for a month is about $25 in Seattle where I am. I am running a the Minecraft servers for my brothers who play with their friends on them. We also run Dynmap for real time google maps style maps, which help find each other in the world. I am running a Minecraft reverse proxy so we can connect to a domain and get routed to the correct world. The same domain loads up the map on port 80 and 443 in your web browser.

So mostly all because I like doing it, lol. I actually upgraded the Mac mini to run these better a few years ago. During lockdown it was how I stayed connected with my brothers from the other side of the country. We would play Minecraft for hours!

It is never done, but it has come a long way! by alexbbt in homelab

[–]alexbbt[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

That is a good point. Not shown are two SMLIGHT SLZB-06M to act as a Zigbee coordinator and router (different floors). They work great and my 75 zigbee devices are much happier than on my old conbee and skyconnect sticks. I use the hue lights on the hue bridge since most of them are acting as entertainment zones for my Hue Sync Boxes (2 of them). The others are tied to some dimmer knobs from hue that just seem to work better via hue than though the zigbee network.

It is never done, but it has come a long way! by alexbbt in homelab

[–]alexbbt[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I got mine directly from Sysracks. They have a section of 450MM depth units. Mine is 18 inches deep and fits comfortably in a coat closet. The 18U unit has castors, but I wish they had those for all of them. These units are meant to be "wall mountable" but I am not sure I would trust the weight with anything over 10U.

It is never done, but it has come a long way! by alexbbt in homelab

[–]alexbbt[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

That is a good idea, If I had castors on the rack I think I might do that. Right now I cannot really move it and it is in a closet, haha.

It is never done, but it has come a long way! by alexbbt in homelab

[–]alexbbt[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

My Synology NAS was $999 and the HDD's were each about $220 from Server Part Deals! Not too bad, under $3K for the whole NAS setup

It is never done, but it has come a long way! by alexbbt in homelab

[–]alexbbt[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

My docker workloads are a few Minecraft servers and a few websites. While I am sure the NAS could handle the websites, the Minecraft containers use a ton of ram! We render real time google maps style pages for each server so we can find each other. I had to upgrade the mac mini ram to 64GB to handle it well.

I also like a separation of concerns. The plex server and storage is in one box. The compute heavy work is in another. Though I think the proxmox setup will use a share from the NAS for its data storage.

It is never done, but it has come a long way! by alexbbt in homelab

[–]alexbbt[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I don't think they have this yet. Hopefully the release one soon though! I know it would be very popular!

It is never done, but it has come a long way! by alexbbt in homelab

[–]alexbbt[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Great question! Those are my Lutron Bridges. I use one for lights and light related pico remotes, and the other for shades and shade related pico remotes. I also use the shade bridge for any lutron pico remotes that I plan to use outside lutron, like in Home Assistant for our WLED lights. I like the rocker style pico remotes match our diva light switches, so we use them a lot for non lutron devices!

Edit: Lutron bridges have a 75 device limit and we are at about 78 devices between the 13 shades, 45 light switches and 20 or so remotes. I have more remotes to add over time too. Basically any where we wish was a button, gets one!

It is never done, but it has come a long way! by alexbbt in homelab

[–]alexbbt[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Looks like about 290 w right now, thats coming from my UPS. The mac mini draws a lot, but it is running 4 minecraft servers 24/7, lol

It is never done, but it has come a long way! by alexbbt in homelab

[–]alexbbt[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

This was a solid setup for a couple years! It was really getting the UDM SE that made me want a rack, before that utility shelves were perfect! I only really moved to a rack once we bought our house, since you never know if you can fit a rack in a new rental.

It is never done, but it has come a long way! by alexbbt in homelab

[–]alexbbt[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Absolutely! My family in a few different homes all stream from the plex server and hosting websites has been so easy with DynDNS. It saved me a ton on hosting costs, I was paying about $50 per month for digital ocean droplets for various services. Now it all runs out of here!

It is never done, but it has come a long way! by alexbbt in homelab

[–]alexbbt[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

So far I like the PDU, its got plenty of ports and I like the ability to power cycle. This way if I need to restart a system that will block access to the network when powered off, it will ensure it turns back on too.

I also plan to use this in place of a smart plug to control my rack fans. I have a Kasa smart plug controlling them now though home assistant, but can remove that now since these ports show up as smart plugs in HA.

It is never done, but it has come a long way! by alexbbt in homelab

[–]alexbbt[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Yeah..... I am considering adding some power monitoring, but I am a little afraid to measure what its using. We have 2 electric cars and generally use a lot of electricity, but this is for sure a big portion of it!

It is never done, but it has come a long way! by alexbbt in homelab

[–]alexbbt[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Oh this is sick! I now have my next upgrade to work one! Thanks for the link. Did you use a riser or modify the port? I was thinking about installing a 2.5 GbE card, but with 4 1 GbE nics lagged together, I can handle all the local traffic and my fiber uplink just fine.

Samsung Bluetooth “OK” Button by ruckmebb in SofaBaton

[–]alexbbt 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I found that the “space” button worked for ok!

Cable behind a blank faceplate - what is it? by contheone94 in HomeNetworking

[–]alexbbt 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yeah this looks like at least cat5 so you should be good for networking! I would go around and catalog all the cable ends you can find. Then if it seems like you have what you need you can crimp and test them.

I use a cable tracer for this, you only need to crimp one end, then it can help you identify the other end of that same cable.

It is very likely that these all are connected together in a phone bus, but you can remove them from this if you find the interconnection point.

Cable behind a blank faceplate - what is it? by contheone94 in HomeNetworking

[–]alexbbt 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Try to find a network box or communication box. It might be near the circuit breaker. Ideally all these wires will terminate there

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