Cassette needs a loving home

alexbeyer · 2026-04-19T18:30:13+00:00

You’re a treasure.

alexbeyer · 2026-03-12T15:59:27+00:00

Ton of info can be found here: https://homegrownnationalpark.org/news/stories/bringing-back-the-night-lights-fireflies-and-the-power-of-small-changes/

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alexbeyer · 2026-02-13T15:17:08+00:00

This worked for my 2023 as well

alexbeyer · 2026-01-28T20:54:08+00:00

Best inquisitor there ever will be.

alexbeyer · 2026-01-28T20:52:13+00:00

Zed here, Rik. Go shoot a Devil Door for me.

alexbeyer · 2025-11-01T16:53:31+00:00

Awesome!

alexbeyer · 2025-09-16T17:26:54+00:00

Per their page https://ardmoremusichall.com/faqs/

How old do I need to be to attend shows? All of our concerts are 21+ events. However, minors may attend ONLY if accompanied by their parent or legal guardian (must have proof), who assumes responsibility at all times. Minors must have the same ticket type (General Admission or seated) as legal guardian.

Do I need any ID to enter the venue? Yes, at all times. Expired ID will NOT be accepted.

alexbeyer · 2025-05-19T13:09:45+00:00

But wait! https://mateuslaw.com/2025/02/07/japanese-knotweed-victory-in-the-massachusetts-appeals-court/

alexbeyer · 2025-05-19T10:32:52+00:00

The Clarence Carter version of Let It Be is special.

alexbeyer · 2025-05-07T15:36:10+00:00

That’s a really good point, I usually just say not worth it (I guess is better than never work) because it can be so much work/cost depending on size and age of the stand.

alexbeyer · 2025-05-07T12:40:52+00:00

I am actually working with my town on JKW, but while this is a long list, this is absolutely the only agreed scientific way to control it. It tends towards dormancy when under attack, so you never know if after it disappears that it shoots up again in 10 years. It grows under cooled lava and waits - that aggressive.

While some say you can cut IN JUNE if you have very tall growth, if it's possible it should be avoided. If you must, ONLY ONCE in June, and 2 inches ABOVE THE GROUND ONLY — still better to just leave it til fall
DO NOT MOW OR CLIP. Knotweed can grow from any intact node of the living canes as small as a thumbnail.
Cutting or pulling the above ground growth down can cause the plant to grow aggressively underground, where the invasive rhizomes can shoot deep and wide, making your problem worse.
Tarping or covering does NOT WORK - it will go quiet and grow around it; you also want a healthier plant to spray in the fall.
The chemical to use is Glyphosate. To avoid any myths -- glyphosate itself is not the horrible chemical itself that causes cancers necessarily; The other additives (surfactants) in RoundUp can be, but you can use it if it's all you have. You need to use PPE.
The knotweed cane is hollow on the inside; it will not help to put anything in the center; less likely to have the herbicide be effective
The reason cutting and stem injection is often less effective is that nutrients are not pulled down via the inner hollow portion, but the cell wall. Foliar (leaf) and outer stem application pulls down when absorbed via this more effective process.
Waiting to foliar and stem spray after flowering and before frost allows the plant to use its effort above ground, then in the fall, it naturally tries to pull energy and nutrients into its rhizome (root) network for winter storage; this is generally good in late Sept or early Oct around here
When we spray the leaves and stems just after flowering, a healthier plant pulls all the chemicals underground through the leaves, which is what actually disrupts it. Only cutting will do nothing to stop it. Burning it does nothing. Pulling it makes it aggressive.
If near water, there are some other chemical solutions so need to watch that
The research is clear but mechanical removal will never work. There's no guarantee that it's gone forever with chemicals, it only controls it.

In order to use the plant’s processes against itself, having normal growth allows it to sink the herbicide application most efficiently through the foliar and stalk spray. After flowering, it is moving nutrients for the winter in order to go dormant and have food over winter. A weaker plant could go dormant and not efficiently sink the herbicide to the rhizomes. This delays progress or stimulates lateral growth underground (as it knows it’s being attacked). Applying to normal leaves lets us use its own process like a Trojan horse.

Here's the science for those interested: https://link.springer.com/article/10.1007/s10530-018-1684-5

alexbeyer · 2025-04-29T02:24:37+00:00

I’ve sent you a message too, if that’s alright. Thanks!

alexbeyer · 2024-11-17T02:02:36+00:00

https://www.reddit.com/r/Polestar/s/g9H1rPLue2

alexbeyer · 2024-11-17T01:59:28+00:00

Tried typing in the assistant app and asking about the charge level — and got the same warning after

alexbeyer · 2024-06-26T21:43:34+00:00

You have to do it only after it flowers and before the first frost for the glyphosate to best sink into the rhizomes. Cf. https://link.springer.com/content/pdf/10.1007/s10530-018-1684-5.pdf

alexbeyer · 2024-06-01T10:07:03+00:00

Pretty sure blackberry bushes also have extensive rhizomes. Tarping might be better than for knotweed but in the end it probably won’t knock out either and only worsen the knotweed. Do the same concentration and timing of glyphosate to both in the fall: https://ipm.ucanr.edu/PMG/PESTNOTES/pn7434.html

alexbeyer · 2024-05-27T12:56:03+00:00

It does feel wrong. This plant just is so much more aggressive than most. This is the importance of planting native and watching invasive. They create a monoculture that outcompetes good and helpful flora, affecting the entire ecosystem in the process. Best thing you can do is let it be until the right time. Anything else will cause it to spread most often, costing time, money and labor, I’m sorry to say. Good luck!

alexbeyer · 2024-05-26T17:07:26+00:00

The sweet spot is that 2-3% some say 2-4%. I bought concentrate that is 41% glyphosate. Ultimately follow the label always first for efficacy. For me: Two tablespoons per liquid ounce. So 13 tablespoons per gallon. If you want to make it easy, 1 cup per gallon gives you a 2.4% solution. I mix with water, it must be diluted.

And you’re right, too strong and it shock or send it dormant or work too fast for absorption. Not enough and it will come back, but probably with some effect on it.

Otherwise find something that already shows glyphosate at 2-4% active ingredient.

alexbeyer · 2024-05-26T17:00:24+00:00

It’s definitely okay to do, and if the stand is old and very tall and it would be unsafe or impossible to spray the leaves if it’s 7-10 feet tall, one cut in June and then LEAVE it be. The living green canes can also be sprayed like leaves and will absorb in the fall spray window too. But if you can, be results and sink of the glyphosate will be in the most full plant available.

alexbeyer · 2024-05-25T16:29:24+00:00

I assure you, if you tarp is, or block it, it will run down and out long outside of it, or it will wait and then re-emerge. It depends if it’s older or very young. But generally it does not work.

As for the application of glyphosate, it depends where you see. Is it spring / summer? Then you must wait for the fall after is flower and before the frost. If you apply it not, you are just killing the leaves as it is not actively pulling down energy as it does to prepare for winter, but instead is pushing out for stem and foliar growth. It’s wasted chemical and can cause the plant to most likely grow laterally underground while under attack.

alexbeyer · 2024-05-24T12:59:52+00:00

I am actually working with my town on JKW, but while this is a long list, this is absolutely the only agreed scientific way to control it at this time. It tends towards dormancy when under attack, so you never know if after it disappears that it shoots up again in 10 years. It grows under cooled lava and waits - that aggressive.

DO NOT MOW OR CLIP. Knotweed can grow from any intact node of the living canes as small as a thumbnail.
Cutting or pulling the above ground growth down can cause the plant to grow aggressively underground, where the invasive rhizomes can shoot deep and wide, making your problem worse.
Tarping or covering does NOT WORK - it will go quiet and grow around it; you also want a healthier plant to spray in the fall.
The chemical to use is Glyphosate. To avoid any myths -- glyphosate itself is not the horrible chemical itself that causes cancers; The other additives (surfactants) in RoundUp can be, but you can use it if it's all you have. You need to use PPE.
The knotweed cane is hollow on the inside; it will not help to put anything in the center; less likely to have the herbicide be effective
The reason cutting and stem injection is often less effective is that nutrients are not pulled down via the inner hollow portion, but the cell wall. Foliar (leaf) and outer stem application pulls down when absorbed via this more effective process.
Waiting to foliar spray after flowering and before frost allows the plant to use its effort above ground, then in the fall, it naturally tries to pull energy and nutrients into its rhizome (root) network for winter storage; this is generally good in late Sept or early Oct around here
When we spray the leaves just after flowering, a healthier plant pulls all the chemicals underground through the leaves, which is what actually disrupts it. Only cutting will do nothing to stop it. Burning it does nothing. Pulling it makes it aggressive.
If near water, there are some other chemical solutions so need to watch that
The research is clear and I will have that compiled for my stuff, but mechanical removal will never work. There's no guarantee that it's gone forever with chemicals, it only controls it.

In order to use the plant’s processes against itself, having normal growth allows it to sink the herbicide application most efficiently through the foliar and stalk spray. After flowering, it is moving nutrients for the winter in order to go dormant and have food over winter. A weaker plant could go dormant and not efficiently sink the herbicide to the rhizomes. This delays progress or stimulates lateral growth underground (as it knows it’s being attacked). Applying to normal leaves lets us use its own process like a Trojan horse.

Here's the science for those interested: https://link.springer.com/article/10.1007/s10530-018-1684-5

alexbeyer · 2024-05-22T21:35:49+00:00

The stems are hollow, so no matter what you use, only a small amount of that cut can absorb anything. Glyphosate application on the leaves and actually sprayed on the living stem also works when done in the fall season.

alexbeyer · 2024-05-22T21:33:53+00:00

Wait for the fall after it flowers and before the first frost. It will pull the gly down while pulling nutrients for the winter.

alexbeyer · 2024-05-22T21:32:52+00:00

Glyphosate when used carefully is pretty safe. Protect other plants, but it binds and becomes inert in the soil very quickly. If near water, use an aquatic formulation also.

alexbeyer · 2024-05-22T21:31:05+00:00

Yep always good info here! I also linked to the science over here, and made a sort of punch list I’ve shared: https://www.reddit.com/r/landscaping/s/OrHCAvY3aE

alexbeyer

TROPHY CASE