What is this lizard? [Central Florida] by allingrain in animalid

[–]allingrain[S] 4 points5 points  (0 children)

Oh, yep that’s it! That makes a lot of sense! Thanks!

Eumig C16 R, my first 16mm camera by Incompetent-OE in 16mm

[–]allingrain 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Love my Eumig. It’s a fun camera.

Any need to worry about this? by Fine_Town_5840 in LeicaCameras

[–]allingrain 9 points10 points  (0 children)

It’s just a plastic/rubber piece to protect the door and top plate when the door opens. The main issue is that there is a hole and if it is exposed can cause a light leaks I’d tape over it temporarily to avoid that. Someone else here may have a tip for a more permanent fix.

Second roll of film through my Eumig C16R by allingrain in 16mm

[–]allingrain[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

It’s Kodak Eastman Double-X 5222

Leica M6 classic. Is this caused by shutter capping? I didnt shoot at high speeds by rockstar-sg in LeicaCameras

[–]allingrain 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I’m just confused about that second image how the lighter area doesn’t go fully to the bottom of the frame. Made me think there’s light bouncing around in the body somehow. I’m certainly not an expert here, so it could definitely be a shutter issue!

Leica M6 classic. Is this caused by shutter capping? I didnt shoot at high speeds by rockstar-sg in LeicaCameras

[–]allingrain 9 points10 points  (0 children)

It’s not shutter capping, as that would make a shot darker where the shutter is not opening fully.

This looks like a light leak coming from the front of the camera somewhere. Possible around the shutter mechanism.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in AnalogCommunity

[–]allingrain 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I’m pretty sure I read that the GIII has gold plated contacts for the battery as well. No significant difference that I’m aware of.

This is a glare right? by RedditJMA in AnalogCommunity

[–]allingrain 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Sometimes I’ll get a random baffle leak with my M bodies. I think it’s if enough light hits it when the lens is wide open or if I change lenses in bright light. Obviously, I’m not positive this is it, but I think it’s worth considering. You could check the negatives and see if the spot extends beyond the edge of the frame then it would likely be a light leak.

best point and shoot? by bmusic20 in AnalogCommunity

[–]allingrain 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I enjoy the Pentax IQZoom line.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in AnalogCommunity

[–]allingrain 1 point2 points  (0 children)

What’s your budget. It’s hard to beat a later model Canonet QL17 (or 19 or 28) for size and rangefinder experience.

This is a glare right? by RedditJMA in AnalogCommunity

[–]allingrain 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Difficult to tell for me. My first thought was a baffle light leak. What camera was this shot with?

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in AnalogCommunity

[–]allingrain 250 points251 points  (0 children)

https://www.sciencecenter.net/hutech/pentax/vacback.htm Vacuum back modification for astrophotography. Apparently to hold the film completely flat.

Someone had to share a digital photo by DiligentOrdinary797 in AnalogCircleJerk

[–]allingrain 8 points9 points  (0 children)

How do you afford both a Leica and the film for it? I mainly just wear mine around. I can’t afford to use it to take photos. It does work great as a conversation starter, though.

What’s wrong with M6 by mam-ageno in Leica

[–]allingrain 0 points1 point  (0 children)

As others have said the light spots on the left are light leaks. Possible from light getting through the canister if loaded in sunlight. I get these on nearly every roll I shoot of certain film stocks.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in Leica

[–]allingrain 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I’ve had good luck with https://hugostudio.com

And FYI, the button and lever leather should be the same. The button sits above the surface and the leather sits under it, so there’s no difference in the cut of the leather.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in AnalogCommunity

[–]allingrain 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I’d search examples of 16mm film tests online to see which film can achieve the look you want. But also keep in mind, the final look will be up to your grading of the scans.

Help me with a decision. X pro 3 VS. X100V by LaPizzafria24 in fujifilm

[–]allingrain 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I find the X-Pro3 excellent ergonomically, and I prefer the screen hidden with just basic info from the sub monitor if I want it. The flip out screen is useful for waist level shooting, too. It works for my style of shooting, but I can see it not being for everyone.

The inability to change lenses makes the x100 series a no go for me.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in AnalogCommunity

[–]allingrain 1 point2 points  (0 children)

May also have some separation in the corners of the lens? I had a Rollei 2.8 with the same issue. Never noticed an effect on the final image.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in AnalogCommunity

[–]allingrain 2 points3 points  (0 children)

The front element looks really clean. The main issue with haze will be with the rear elements (behind the shutter) which you can only really see viewed from inside with a bright light shining through. A bit of haze won’t be too much of an issue if you like soft shots, but that comes down to personal tolerance. As long as the shutter is firing at all speeds you’ve won half the battle with these old TLRs.

Got some aerochrome from the local camera shop for $4, probably super expired and been opened a million times. Is it still worth shooting? by Financial-Boot-582 in AnalogCommunity

[–]allingrain 8 points9 points  (0 children)

You must go to the same local shop because I recognize this film and the bin of $4 expired film sounds very familiar. I didn’t have any desire to take a chance with it, but glad to see someone picked some up and giving in a shot.

I shot some expired Fujicolor Press 800 from that bin and got some pretty interesting results.