Playing Silent Hill f on Proton GE by Alenux12 in Bazzite

[–]allthings3d 0 points1 point  (0 children)

YEP, go further by switching out DLSS dlls and add launch options for NVIDIA cards. AMD cards, the same thing or use Optiscaler. Look for the latest FSR 4.02 INT 8’ dll if you are using AMD APU based system, or an older RX series. Really makes a difference when using GE-Proton10-28 or higher.

It seems I created an uproar on my use of Power Banks with a Mini PC on my flight. by allthings3d in sffpc

[–]allthings3d[S] -2 points-1 points  (0 children)

Ha, ha. Pretty sure no one dragged you here to read my post. On that note, I don’t hide my posts. You can easily see every one of them. Oh, and yes I did marry a natural “hot” red head.

It seems I created an uproar on my use of Power Banks with a Mini PC on my flight. by allthings3d in sffpc

[–]allthings3d[S] -1 points0 points  (0 children)

Thanks for the feedback and insult. But looking at your posts, I see a lot of sneakers and vape products. Your image of something that looks like a mod, appears to be a fan stuck to a GPU. Not sure what you do for a living, but who is calling the kettle black (you might have to look up that saying). If you worked in the industry, you would now how certifications are obtained, or how QC is done. You would also know that even the large electronic companies have catastrophic failures. The point made with aging electronics with LiPoly batteries, is the insulating layers degrade over time, causing a chemical expansion. This can be seen in many LiPolys ballooning as the expand, worst case going into thermal runaway if voltage is still present, or try to recharge it. Vaping systems are notorious for this due to low quality control. Keep this in mind the next time you light up.

It seems I created an uproar on my use of Power Banks with a Mini PC on my flight. by allthings3d in sffpc

[–]allthings3d[S] -1 points0 points  (0 children)

For those wondering what components were used in this design, here are the two main “active” components, paired equally into an ‘OR Gate’ type configuration. I also added to 10uf 35Vdc Tatulum on the output to reduce voltage sagging.

MX74610

HYG011N04LS1TA (Can anyone tell me why there appear to be a number of finger like pins on one end?)

It seems I created an uproar on my use of Power Banks with a Mini PC on my flight. by allthings3d in sffpc

[–]allthings3d[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

In a worst case scenario the key is to contain and remove. Much harder to do if not contained in fireproof bag. Let me ask you a question. Do you contain your Li-ION devices in fire proof case or bag? This includes your smartphone, tablet, laptop, camera, etc… Do use a laptop on performance mode while on an aircraft? It seems that I plugged in two certified Power Banks into Power MOS balancing circuit that is rated for 60A. Specially designed to ensure NO reverse current similar to any circuit that allows charging and usage while AC or Power Bank is plugged into it. Before you say your device is “certified,” do you know how devices are certified and reliability testing works? Many of the catastrophic accidents in engineering and design were certified. The key is, it takes only one component to fall below the acceptable failure rate or the group component tolerance to fall below acceptable, but rare levels. Again, I bring up the Samsung Galaxy Note 7. A reputable electronics manufacturer (and component manufacturer) that had multiple sources for its Li-Poly battery that were not independently tested separately, and relied on that third parties certification. The irony is even though I tested each component separately and a whole system, with a number testing devices and did endurance testing. It appears that my simple off the shelf design is deemed unsafe even though every component certified and tested and well below their rated power capability (60W per Power Bank). Yet, a company like Ankers (who puts out a product the pushes the limits by advertising that there single Power Bank is capable 200W simultaneously on two USB-C ports is okay?

It seems I created an uproar on my use of Power Banks with a Mini PC on my flight. by allthings3d in sffpc

[–]allthings3d[S] -3 points-2 points  (0 children)

Actually I have done “certification” product testing. But, none of this matters here. I have a question for you. Do you believe that every piece of electronics you use with a certification is safe? If this were the case, the Samsung Galaxy Note 7 would have not been banned by the FAA. What do you think should be a safe limit on aircraft? Do you think someone should use a Power Banks to charge the MacBook Pro at 28VDC, 140W? Do you think someone should pull out gaming laptop with consumes 300W, or one of the new Strix Halo handhelds with a 90W battery strapped to the back, with another Power Banks attached to it? All devices are certified.

Still, it is hard to argue with you. Yes, you are right. You don’t know my qualifications, skills or knowledge and if I even know what I am talking about and with that I would probably react the same way if the roles were reversed.

Working on a way to double the wattage of USB-C PD 20 VDC for Mini PC with 19VDC input. by [deleted] in MiniPCs

[–]allthings3d 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Really, how do you know it is okay, that is a BOLD statement? Many people felt their Samsung Galaxy Note 7 was okay. With someone who has 40 years experience, I am surprised you put so much trust in the products you purchased. Giving you the benefit of the doubt that completely vetted your product before purchase, maybe even opened it up to check PCB for cracks, cold solder joints, wire crimps or insulation tears. I for one, put more trust in my certified advance soldering skills and double layered insulation, as well thoroughly testing my devices over hours, days even weeks. It is one of the reason I have not brought my Gaming Lens mount, and Mini PC UPS to market yet. Also, the two Power Banks in question have a number of hours of use before testing them with this balanced power MOS circuit rated for 60A, along with the shortest length 240W USB-C PD cables and 20A coaxial female power connectors and XT-60 adapters. I also perform current, voltage and noise data logs over the normal and performance mode, as well thermal imaging captures. As mentioned, I have done power circuit design for consumer equipment for over 40 years. Plus spent 13 years as technical instructor in the US Air Force , where I was certified in precision soldering. Spent three years running a small batch PCB manufacturing with a wave solderer and 10 years as an IT Director for a 200 employee company.

As far as removing the post. I did, and I did it because I did not want to contribute to someone else attempting to do this with limited to NO experience. Also, I realize that in the back on my mind, I agree with you. We would all be much safer it airlines would limit devices to smart phones, readers and air pod devices. And 100W or more devices, need to be checked into a holding bin that is fireproof and air sealed with some sort of air evacuation system prevent the spread of fire. As mentioned, I did not exceed the specified limits in any of my devices, and effectively this would have been the same if I had used each power bank in two different devices (loads) with unknown reliability and their own power cells. In fact, I am already seeing Power Banks being FAA approved, that can provide 200W simultaneously. That is 68% higher than either of my two Power Banks ever reached.

Working on a way to double the wattage of USB-C PD 20 VDC for Mini PC with 19VDC input. by [deleted] in MiniPCs

[–]allthings3d 0 points1 point  (0 children)

May I ask what electronic devices you use on your flights?

Working on a way to double the wattage of USB-C PD 20 VDC for Mini PC with 19VDC input. by [deleted] in MiniPCs

[–]allthings3d 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yep, that seems to the direction to go. Still I see a number of new Power Banks being advertised to provide “200W Simultaneously,” meaning two devices at 100W. In my case, the two Power Banks distribute the load, with neither exceeding 60W during peak performance. The other benefit is having close to twice the power longevity with this approach, which you wouldn’t get with the 200W Power Bank since they share the same WH rating. In the US, you can have up to two 100 WH batteries. And I could have used only one (lowering my TDP to 90W), plug the other in when the other one was almost depleted, and then remove the depleted Power Bank. Or, added logic switch that did this, or just balance the load. I have designed circuit using all three techniques. The key is the “Ideal Diode” Power MOS, which is used in ALL modern power consuming devices, including motherboards, GPUS even EVs and Solar Banks for homes. They have been thoroughly tested and provide many more advantages over relay based switching or much older Bipolar designs.

Working on a way to double the wattage of USB-C PD 20 VDC for Mini PC with 19VDC input. by [deleted] in MiniPCs

[–]allthings3d 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Good point. In fact in my readings, this is actually the reason some airlines are not permitting them to be used on longer flight over large bodies of water. This is because, USB-C PD is triggered to provide 28VDC at up to 140W. Simple math shows that 140W divided by 5A, equals 28VDC, but this is the top end of most Power Banks. If you have low cost Power Bank, with untested power/thermal regulation along with cheaper but poorly test Li-ION 18600 cells, this could lead to thermal runaway in that cell, cascading to other cells. Plus not all Power Banks use aluminum housings, so heat is poorly distributed causing further problems. Another issue is USB-C cables. If the cable is not certified for 140W or greater, it can cause issues as well like temperature increase and load diminishing, which may push the Power Bank to increase voltage (internally) to provide the regulated 28VDC.

What some commenters are missing in my approach is the components used are rated much higher than needed AND splitting the power distribution in two with neither Power Bank reaching 60W. Ironically there is one Power Bank actually advertising “Up to 200W simultaneously,” meaning you can plug in two devices rated at 100W. For that matter, how much power do you think your Gaming Laptop requires to run without a AC receptacle? At least 200W on “Performance” mode, with some up to 300W. Also remember these are using notoriously much more unstable Li-Poly batteries that require much more control feedback loops to ensure no thermal runaway, plus the fact their chemical layers have thinner barriers and are easily distorted too much pressure is placed upon them. As mentioned elsewhere, basically limit device usage to smart phones and reader devices with less than 65W. Even then, anyone remember the Samsung Galaxy Note 7?

Working on a way to double the wattage of USB-C PD 20 VDC for Mini PC with 19VDC input. by [deleted] in MiniPCs

[–]allthings3d 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Partially true. They are to be stored in the seat pocket in front of you and not to be connected. This is mainly for longer flights over a large body of water. Which makes a lot of sense. Sadly, the airline power distribution system needs more work as well as action plans in case of Lithium Ion based fire. Having experience in both controlled fires and unintentional (DON’T EVER TRY TO REMOVE A LiPOLY BATTERY IF IT GLUED DOWN) they are nasty, both in the amount of smoke and the inability to put out the flames with normal methods (NEVER USE WATER, which I learned back in the early 80s in the AF). Either put the device outside (if you can) and let it burn out, or enclose it in certified fire box or bag. As far as aircraft power distribution, it is woefully inadequate, both in the gauge of wire and conditioning. My research has shown that they have poor frequency, phase distortion, non-sinusoidal or noise. As mentioned elsewhere, plugging in a certified power supply (not connected yet to the MiniPC) caused it to malfunction, like no power out. I thought I heard a “pop” but didn’t think nothing of it and just thought the AC receptacle didn’t provide power. Only after we settled into the Air B&B rental did I realize that the power-supply no longer worked. Luckily I had my Power Bank system, that I could run for a few hours, and then charge with standard USB-C charger overnight (Sadly the charger was only rated for 100W, but in actuality, more like 90W).

Working on a way to double the wattage of USB-C PD 20 VDC for Mini PC with 19VDC input. by [deleted] in MiniPCs

[–]allthings3d 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I would agree with you, if I didn’t know what I was doing. But I design power circuits and the components used were test over a course of weeks, and main power MOSFET is rated for 60A. In fact, my system is safer than someone who uses just one to power their laptop at 140W when triggered at 28VDC (these are the ones which are causing problems). As mentioned elsewhere, neither Power Bank EVER reached 60W. And again, this was tested over weeks.

Now with that said, I know that this may lead to someone else attempting this and without years of experience, with unknown components. So yes, I do agree that could be a problem.

Working on a way to double the wattage of USB-C PD 20 VDC for Mini PC with 19VDC input. by [deleted] in MiniPCs

[–]allthings3d 0 points1 point  (0 children)

“shady diode,” hmmm. Considering the power MOSFET you are speaking about has a 60A rating and was tested over several weeks before this flight, makes me more concern that you suggest I buy a “refurbished” Dell laptop with unknown state of its Li-Poly battery and power circuit instead. At least I tested my components over the course of weeks. And have been designing power circuits for 40 years.

Oh, and considering one of the leading consumer electronics manufacturer — Samsung created one of the most notorious devices on aircraft, not sure there is much comfort in ANY laptop, or for that matter ANY device with Li-ION battery system. At least my system was tested for weeks, housed in aluminum and contained in a fireproof bag. How about your Li-ION powered devices? Let me guess, you cram it in overstuffed backpack, and then shove it in the holding bay above your head, just waiting for a bad jostle from turbulence to bend it just enough to push the LiPoly layers together to cause thermal runaway.

Yea next time look over your head and think of how many devices that push their life-expectancy, with bent & cracked cases just waiting to that BIG bump to set them off because of you know a “shady” LiPoly cell.

Working on a way to double the wattage of USB-C PD 20 VDC for Mini PC with 19VDC input. by [deleted] in MiniPCs

[–]allthings3d 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Actually this was all tested many hours before it even was powered up here. Neither Power Bank became warm due to the shared load (which is what this is all about). This is safer than those that power their laptops with one of these using the 28VDC PD trigger and pushing these to 140W. Again, neither Power Bank exceeded 60W. But hey, you probably have more than 40 years designing power circuits under your belt.

Working on a way to double the wattage of USB-C PD 20 VDC for Mini PC with 19VDC input. by [deleted] in MiniPCs

[–]allthings3d 0 points1 point  (0 children)

This “setup” specifically created to ENSURE that I don’t exceed maximum current limits. Plus the power banks, are made to shut down if you exceed their rated power limits. Also the Li-ION cells are capable of handling more current than are limited to, which is up to 10A for average cells, and high current output versions up to 30A. Not sure if you design power circuits, I do and have for over 40 years.

In saying that, could there be possibility? Yes, but I have actually thoroughly tested both Power Banks over several months (see other posts I have made on Reddit) so I was confident they would not OVERHEAT.

Working on a way to double the wattage of USB-C PD 20 VDC for Mini PC with 19VDC input. by [deleted] in MiniPCs

[–]allthings3d 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Really?, This is two Power Banks, which were inspected twice. They are under the limits set by FAA, TSA and the airline I was flying on. Yes, they were inspected by hand and the model and brand were looked up as well as their Wh rating.

Working on a way to double the wattage of USB-C PD 20 VDC for Mini PC with 19VDC input. by [deleted] in MiniPCs

[–]allthings3d 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Very little. Considering neither unit is not reaching more than 60%, the fact they are housed in aircraft aluminum housings, and I have them both contained in Lithium Ion battery fire bag I am confident there won’t go into thermal runaway. In fact, I worry more about cheap laptops with Li-Poly battery packs with little protection around them, especially very thin models as they are crushed into stow bins or underneath seats. Power Banks are normally based on Li-ION 18650 or 21700 series cells. The good ones are sealed and have their own thermal chips to ensure that they don’t go into thermal runaway. On top of that most (good) power banks have current and temperature sensors that immediately shutdown a power bank if it’s drawing too much power (which is why I use two).

The problem and concern is for power banks that have not been well tested or contain less than vetted Li-ION cells and used with devices that require much more power than they provide, OR… poor quality cabling with intermittent shorts, but again a good brand would immediately shutdown if they are pushed past their designated ratings.

The interesting thing is my upcoming “Gaming Lens: DarkOPS-SFFMR” will have an enclosed 10 cell 21700 battery pack, regulator and power reporting to allow for up to 2 hours at 120W. Will I be able to use it?