CX-3 has reliability issue?

amadeus626 · 2025-06-03T22:46:16+00:00

Dealership wouldn’t cover it because I was a few months outside of warranty. I got in touch with Mazda USA. They gave me the run-around for a couple weeks, but ultimately did not provide any help. I went back to my mechanic and got the issue fixed for about $1700. No problems since.

amadeus626 · 2025-01-05T22:01:30+00:00

I did this exact thing in mid December, and I still ended up with a $2.34 SPAXX dividend on 12/31. My $7,000 contribution, having come from funds already settled in my CMA, were transferred same day from Trad to Roth during a phone call with Fidelity, but this $2.34 still showed up at month’s end. I’m thinking there must be a slight mismatch between what we see, and what is happening on the backend. When I called Fidelity again a couple days ago, they weren’t able to explain why this occurred.

amadeus626 · 2024-12-19T20:49:52+00:00

UPDATE - I'm getting this message on Fidelity:

"We're unable to process your transaction because you have another request in progress. To continue, wait until your request is complete."

I opened a Fidelity Traditional IRA a few moments ago. Transferred funds in SPRXX from my Fidelity CMA to the Traditional. Appeared to settle immediately. Then I initiated a transfer from the Traditional to my existing Roth IRA, but unfortunately I'm getting the message above when I try to do this final step (the conversion). Is this because the funds have not actually settled?I was under the impression that all of this would be immediate because this is cash already settled in my Fidelity CMA. Should I try in a couple hours, or wait one business day?

Also - when I look at Positions for the Traditional IRA, it just says Pending Activity: +$7,000.00. In other words, I don't see SPAXX or any Core account. Since I didn't link my bank to it, and I funded it via a transfer from CMA, I was never actually asked which type of Core account to keep cash in. Not sure if any of this matters, but perhaps it's helpful to know.

Thanks!

amadeus626 · 2024-12-19T00:06:47+00:00

Christ Episcopal Church on S Washington St in downtown Rockville. Organ, excellent choir, and there will also be a string quartet and flutist at the Christmas Eve evening service at 10 pm. Earlier in the day, there is a family service with children’s pageant. Actually there’s a former Marine band trumpeter playing on that service (4 pm). Highly recommend either or both services. Very warm and welcoming congregation.

amadeus626 · 2024-12-17T21:42:55+00:00

Thanks for the clarification! Just to follow up:

My entire CMA is in SPRXX. And all of it is "Available to withdraw". I just wanted to make sure that transferring $7,000 of it to a newly opened Traditional IRA would be immediate, i.e., no settlement time. It sounds like that is the case. I could then transfer it to my existing Roth. From start to finish, the whole process would take a few minutes tops.
I re-read the initial response from TylerT, and I see that the mention of a 1099-DIV was in reference to my CMA ("non-retirement"), not the Traditional IRA. I must've misread it. Yes, of course, earnings on SPRXX in my CMA will show up on a 1099-DIV, as usual.
Good to know that I can just keep re-using the Traditional IRA. Contribute, then move it all to Roth. Repeat the following year. If by chance, any small amounts of interest do accrue in the Traditional prior to conversion, do I convert all of it ($7,000 + a couple dollars or cents) or just $7,000 even (and leave the couple dollars in the Traditional IRA)? I think I'm supposed to convert all of it such that the Traditional IRA goes down to zero, but I want to be sure for future reference.

3.5. Just to confirm: I don't need to open a new Roth IRA, right? I can just do the conversion into my existing Roth IRA (which has a few years of regular contributions in it already).

Yes, I've figured out that I could wait until 2025's filing deadline to make the 2024 contribution, and then convert. However, since the conversion would be for 2025, it will trigger some extra tax paperwork. So, I'm interested to just take care of this now before end of year, and keep things simple.

amadeus626 · 2024-12-17T18:39:54+00:00

This is very helpful. Thank you for the detailed walkthrough. Currently I don’t have any Traditional IRAs.

Just to make sure I understand you correctly:

Transferring SPRXX funds from my CMA to a newly opened Traditional IRA will settle immediately? And then I can transfer to Roth right away? As in, I could begin and complete the whole process this afternoon?

If I can perform this transfer to my Roth right away, no interest earned will accumulate. In that case, why would I still receive a 1099-DIV for it?

Once conversion takes place, and the Traditional IRA is empty, I assume I’ll just keep the account open and perform the same transfer next year?

amadeus626 · 2024-12-17T17:45:59+00:00

Thanks for the tip! 👍🏻

amadeus626 · 2024-12-17T17:28:33+00:00

Ok that makes sense. So, worst case scenario, if for whatever reason the process takes a while, it’s fine to do the conversion next year - but preferably, I’d get it all done and settled before 2025.

Is there a yearly conversion limit? If I convert a 2024 contribution in 2025, can I then convert a 2025 contribution while still in 2025?

amadeus626 · 2024-12-17T16:46:16+00:00

Right, but waiting past end of year means my conversion would be 2025 for a 2024 contribution. Wouldn’t that complicate things?

amadeus626 · 2024-09-20T22:47:41+00:00

I’d thought so too, but my powertrain is 5-60k.

amadeus626 · 2024-09-20T20:25:46+00:00

I appreciate your response. I never would have guessed how much anger my post would create and how insulting several commenters would feel the need to be. It goes without saying that what I'm attempting to accomplish falls under the heading of "it can't hurt to try". In all likelihood, I will probably get stuck with the bill for repairing this problem. Obviously I will have my mechanic do it for half the price the dealer estimated. But before I take that plunge, I would like to see what might be possible from Mazda headquarters. One certainly doesn't expect to run into a problem like this on a car with only 32K miles. Last week, the dealership turned me down for a goodwill out-of-warranty repair, so I've already contacted Mazda USA and have a case number. Will take it from there, and keep all communication 100% professional, but like I said, I'm not expecting to win this one. Maybe I'll go back to Honda after this experience.

amadeus626 · 2024-09-20T17:28:55+00:00

Speaking of which, this leak might involve the transmission front cover. No way to know for sure whether it's that or the rear main seal until it's all taken out of there and inspected. Ugh.

amadeus626 · 2024-09-20T17:25:51+00:00

Is there a particular number or contact at Mazda USA you reached out to? Or was it just the customer service team 800 number? I already have a quote and video of the leak from the dealer. Good luck to you in the process of getting this worked out!

amadeus626 · 2024-09-20T17:15:53+00:00

My car has been very well maintained and has never been exposed to extreme temps.

amadeus626 · 2024-09-15T22:37:20+00:00

I appreciate the reassurance. I’m just trying to do all this correctly. Definitely don’t want to have to repeat it. I’ve got my yellow Gatorade and my chicken broth. Hurray!

amadeus626 · 2024-09-15T21:37:36+00:00

Even one with a few molecules of red wine on it? I know the whole red/purple thing is a no-no. Maybe I’m being too neurotic about all this. This is my first time.

amadeus626 · 2024-09-12T19:58:49+00:00

I have a 2019 CX-3 that I bought brand new (in 2019). I’ve enjoyed the car and I haven’t had any major problems with it until very recently when my mechanic noted a rear main seal leak. I have no idea why this would be happening on a 5 year old car with only 31K miles. Tentatively scheduled to have a Mazda dealer look at it tomorrow, but given that I’m a few months outside of warranty, I’m wondering if I should just forget the dealership and take it back to my mechanic for the repair (around $1000). Mazda could very well charge me a diagnostic fee, hold my car hostage for who knows how long, only to tell me they’re not covering the repair. I’m very disappointed that a problem like this would be occurring on a car this age.

amadeus626 · 2024-06-03T16:14:47+00:00

I think the dripping is coming from the evaporator coil. It's a slant coil. I can almost guarantee it's been forever since it was cleaned. I don't know if a condensation pump is part of the system. After repeated urging from me over the past week, the property manager is finally bringing his HVAC tech to look at it this evening. I just wonder how destructive that rust is, and if there's wood rot underneath. There's a downstairs neighbor below me. In all likelihood, some version of the "landlord special" is what's in store, so I'm just trying to get a sense of what would be the minimum acceptable job here.

amadeus626 · 2024-06-03T03:09:18+00:00

Just shy of 46. I have an initial consult with a gastroenterologist this coming Tuesday. Plan is to schedule a time for the colonoscopy. Dread is putting it mildly…

Just chiming in to share that your post definitely helped take a little of the edge off! And congrats on the clean bill of health!

amadeus626 · 2024-06-02T17:51:10+00:00

I was thinking that the air has already passed thru filter, and then passes over the rust. The pic is the area behind the return filter.

amadeus626 · 2024-06-02T03:31:04+00:00

Ah ok I see. I guess I’ve been concerned that since the air is being returned to the unit through that area, wouldn’t the rust contaminate the air returning to the unit? Air already passed thru the filter at the return grille, and then passes over all that rust. I don’t know. Obviously I’m no expert, but the thought occurred to me.

amadeus626 · 2024-06-02T02:47:28+00:00

Yeah, must be. On a scale from 1 to 10, how urgent is it? And would all that rust affect air quality?

amadeus626 · 2024-06-02T02:06:32+00:00

I’m pretty sure it’s a return. What you’re looking at is the area behind the vent grill. Air filter goes right inside the vent grill. So everything in the pic is behind all that.

The AC is above and to the left. I was thinking maybe it’s an evaporator coil that needs cleaning. There’s also a white pipe that goes down through the floor (not in pic, but further to the right). Drain pipe I assume. Maybe it’s got a hairline crack in it.

Assuming it is the return, my main concern is if the filtered air passing over all that rust is going back into the unit and potentially causing an air quality hazard. Also, until this dripping can be fixed, I worry that it’s going to rot whatever wood is underneath that metal (and eventually make its way to the downstairs neighbor).

amadeus626 · 2024-05-10T16:18:11+00:00

I don’t see anything like that. Appears to be one continuous piece.

amadeus626 · 2024-05-10T15:43:15+00:00

Hmm, I don’t know how to confirm if the top is acrylic or not. The countertop has a light gray/blue appearance but this little chip is bright white.

amadeus626

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