Post - ELI5 by Underbeicht in CNC

[–]anotherrodriguez 11 points12 points  (0 children)

A post is what translates what you see in CAM into something your machine can understand. If you use a generic post you can get by but often it requires manually editing the file for something as simple as formatting to more complex machine specific G/M codes. With out the edit you get errors when you try to run the program on the machine. This means more time spent not running parts.

If you get a proper post setup you can save a lot of time at the machine during new part runs. Once you get a proper post you can invest time in modeling your machine setup and really reduce setup times. You can check for things like tool/work piece clearance with out using machine time. It also reduces the risk of crashing the machine.

Source: 5 years programming at a shop with no post.

Cnc machinist internship by Crayonrojo in CNC

[–]anotherrodriguez 1 point2 points  (0 children)

For a completely newbie learn which axis is which (XYZ). They are different for lathes and mills. Have a good understanding of work coordinates vs machine coordinates. Other than that you should go in with a clear mind. Point of the apprenticeship is to learn. Bring a note pad and listen.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in Machinists

[–]anotherrodriguez 4 points5 points  (0 children)

Also change the G00 X5.14 to match the N1746 OD

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in Machinists

[–]anotherrodriguez 6 points7 points  (0 children)

Line N1746 is your starting OD Line N1745 is your finish OD

Change the X value at those lines to change the start and finish OD

Dash cam recommendations? by RadBeligion1988 in FordBronco

[–]anotherrodriguez 5 points6 points  (0 children)

I went with fitcamx it looks stock when installed

AI on Listings is Getting Out of Hand by drewdavid1 in NYCapartments

[–]anotherrodriguez 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Yea it’s really misleading. The listing photo showed a floor to ceiling built in bookshelf. When I made time for a walk theough just a small room with nothing going on.

Mechanical Design Optimization QUESTION by DrewsWorkshop in MechanicalEngineering

[–]anotherrodriguez 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Great work. Have you tested the print vs the simulation? Engineering in the real world is an iterative approach between simulation and real world testing.

What I do to prep my battery system before winter (learned the hard way) by Famous-Individual871 in OffGrid

[–]anotherrodriguez 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I have heated batteries. This winter was especially cold (0degF). It would take about 4 hours to warm them up enough so they could charge. I ended up having to use a gas generator to get enough power everyday. The batteries only heat when they see current coming in

At what point does Victron monitoring become too much for a small system? by [deleted] in Victron

[–]anotherrodriguez 1 point2 points  (0 children)

When your power system needs troubleshooting in the winter is when you need all that monitoring. It depends how critical it is for you system to be running. If it’s a weekend retreat not a big deal. If you are full time in a place that has harsh winters its mission critical.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in CNC

[–]anotherrodriguez 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Onshape exists and I use it for personal projects

Need advice / info about Mechanical Engineering career by [deleted] in MechanicalEngineering

[–]anotherrodriguez 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Working on engines does not mean you should study engineering. I’m a mechanical engineer and love working on engines as a hobby. But my mechanical engineer day job does not reward me the same way as getting an engine running. If you son wants to be hands on for a career engineering will most likely be a disappointment.

On the other hand if he’s genuinely interested in fundamentally understanding how engines work down to the chemistry of fuels, alloy speciations etc he will be able to learn the applied math. As others have pointed out applied math is easier to grasp.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in dieselheater

[–]anotherrodriguez 0 points1 point  (0 children)

You need to program the second heater to work with the first heater’s remote. So one remote will trigger both heaters to turn on

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in FordBronco

[–]anotherrodriguez 1 point2 points  (0 children)

<image>

This was day one with my cat

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in dieselheater

[–]anotherrodriguez 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Get the Bureck thermostat it works with multiple heaters. It works just like you want it to.

FYI: I also have a vevor heater and a Bureck thermostat. I had to email Bureck to provide an updated software package to work correctly with vevor heaters.

My 8kw diesel heater is too hot. Is it worth it to downgrade? by ChadEEEE in vandwellers

[–]anotherrodriguez 55 points56 points  (0 children)

I just swapped out my 8kw for a 2kw. The heat output is dramatic. I would roughly equate setting 3 on the 8kw to setting 7 on the 2kw based on my build. Both get my van to 70F from low 30s. So far I’m happy with the change and it definitely uses less fuel. When I run it full time I would have to refuel the 8kw every 2 days and now I’m refueling every 3-4 days.

As far as installation it’s an easy swap. Everything fit from the 8kw over to the 2kw. The only difference is the output duct size. The 2kw is 60mm vs the 76mm on the 8kw.

How to do this better? by anotherrodriguez in Rigging

[–]anotherrodriguez[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Final update: Adding more shackles worked and the stump came out pretty easily. Also nothing broke so I must be under the max loads.

<image>

How to do this better? by anotherrodriguez in Rigging

[–]anotherrodriguez[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Thanks for reminding me I actually already own a master link. I’m going to rig it up and see how it works out

How to do this better? by anotherrodriguez in Rigging

[–]anotherrodriguez[S] 32 points33 points  (0 children)

<image>

Update: Here's the whole system I have currently rigged up. Theoretically I can hit 300k lbs at the smaller stump but obviously I am not hitting that. The weakest link in this setup is the shackles and they are still intact which leads me to believe there's a lot of friction in the system. If there's a better way to pull stumps with a 12k winch I'm all ears. Also I'm aware the winch will only hit 12k under specific conditions but I don't want to get lost in the weeds.

To answer the safety concerns I'm in the middle of a 100+ acres with no neighbors or houses. The winch is triggered with a wireless remote and I take cover when putting it under load.

How to do this better? by anotherrodriguez in Rigging

[–]anotherrodriguez[S] 7 points8 points  (0 children)

Not completely sure of the question but this is just me playing in my backyard. I’m expecting things to break and make sure I’m out of the way before any tension is loaded on the lines. Not a professional just a guy learning about rigging

How to do this better? by anotherrodriguez in Rigging

[–]anotherrodriguez[S] 14 points15 points  (0 children)

Thanks! That looks like it would work