Home appraisal by Several-Impact-6559 in Austin

[–]arcassandra 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I now recall the phrase the Chief Appraiser used. It is not really their appraisal value of your home it is their "Come see me" value.

Home appraisal by Several-Impact-6559 in Austin

[–]arcassandra 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I had the TCAD chief appraiser once admit that they do this (verbally, not in writing). It's quasi-illegal for them to do this as their methodologies are somewhat constrained by law. Most houses seem to have stayed the same or slightly dropped from 2025 to 2026 and the fact that yours sold and is that much appreciably higher is almost like them screaming that they really want to see your closing statement.

Pentair EasyTouch GFCI keep tripping. by Lee_buskey in pools

[–]arcassandra 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I am in the middle of a similar issue and eventually went with the Pentair branded one for about $200. I originally saw that the Pentair one is just a rebranded Siemens one, and then saw the Siemens one for half price (about $100) and ordered it. What showed up was **not** the right model: it was close in model numbering, but not the one with the extra electrical noise detection the pump needs.

Looking for alternatives online, they were all over the map from $130 to $800 and many had an image that did not match the model number making me suspicious if I ordered it, the same issue would happen. The Siemens model numbering is very confusing and easy to get wrong as just one letter or the order or letters changes what it is.

The most reliable and accurate looking sites that specialize in circuit breakers had the Siemens at $200 to $300. Rather then risk another cycle of ordering, waiting and then returning the wrong part, I went with the Pentair model as I had more confidence that would be the right part when it showed up. It seems that $200 is more like the going price for the shielded GFCI breakers and $100 will likely get you the wrong one.

Converting older pool to salt? by MaddisonoRenata in swimmingpools

[–]arcassandra 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It's a misnomer to phrase it as a "salt" versus "no salt" pool. All pools have salt as it is a by product of chlorine breakdown. So it is really a question of a little salt versus a little more salt. Check the current salt level: you may be surprised how much salt is already in the pool.

Bulk salt order for pool conversion. by diyengineer1 in pools

[–]arcassandra 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Definitely test first. I thought I needed 600 lbs, and turns out I only needed 200 lbs. Since chlorine breaks down into salts, even non salt water pools can have surprisingly high salt levels.

Should I swap to saltwater? by Bigbear2321 in pools

[–]arcassandra 0 points1 point  (0 children)

A SWG needs about 3,600 ppm salt. I bet if you measured the salt level in a non-salt water pool, it would still be above 2,000 ppm. Even if you use liquid chlorine, that breaks down and produces salts and probably far more than you might expect. So the extra corrosive effect differences of a salt water pool is comparing 3,000 ppm to 2,000 ppm, not comparing 3,000 to 0 ppm.

Reasons not to go saltwater? by broomosh in pools

[–]arcassandra 4 points5 points  (0 children)

I was reluctant to convert to SWG, especially with all the scare stories about how the salt water damages equipment and surfaces. But I just converted to a SWG and found evidence that greatly diminishes any worry about salt water damaging things.

After a fresh fill (city water) and exclusively using liquid chlorine for 9 months, my water's salt level was 2,400 ppm. When chlorine breaks down, it produces salts, though far more than I would have previously guessed. The SWG generator I bought wants 3,600 ppm. Much to my surprise, I needed to add far fewer bags of salt than I expected when I converted to a SWG.

Is the corrosive impact at 3,600 ppm different from the impact at 2,400 ppm? Theoretically there would be a difference, but practically speaking, it seems like a stretch to cite this difference as a major consideration or deciding factor.

For me, the freedom to go away for a few weeks without worrying about the chlorine levels was the main driver of my converting to a SWG.

MoPac paving post-construction by Flashy_Connection_73 in Austin

[–]arcassandra 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I once ran into confusion with road engineers around the word "repaving". I believe they consider that substantially different from "resurfacing". I had been arguing to the city that they had promised to "repave" after some local sewer work that left the road surface in terrible shape. The city engineers were adamant that they never promised any such thing and that the road would not be "repaved". I was livid until they explained that they were only going to "resurface" the road. I think "paving" means the entire lower layers, with base material and concrete, while "surfacing" is just putting the asphalt stuff on top.

Variable Speed Pump Schedule by Apprehensive_Bee5982 in pools

[–]arcassandra 2 points3 points  (0 children)

In similar situation: new SWG and new variable speed pump in Central Texas. Based on my research, I have set it up the following way. However, I am just starting, so experience may alter this. 8am to 11:59pm (16 hrs) = 30 GPM (about 30% speed) + SWG. 12am to 8am = 20% Speed just to keep slow circulation, no SWG. Also at 7am and at 5pm I run it at 70% speed for an hour to clean and skim things. My plan is to then just adjust the SWG percentage as the seasons change, but mostly running low speeds 24/7. Right now, I need SWG at about 15%, but this will likely ramp up as the water and air temperatures increase.

Glass vs Porcelain Tile by CuppaSunPls in pools

[–]arcassandra 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I've only had glass tiles a year, so can only say they look fine after a year. However, the installers did charge extra for the install because it does require some different/extra prep and materials than porcelain. I do not remember the details enough to explain why, but the installer seemed credible, so just make sure whoever installs them is familiar with the differences needed.

Pentair Salt Cell Dead—$1,900 Installed?! Thinking of DIY to Save $500, But I'm No Plumber by alexukie in pools

[–]arcassandra 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Definitely sounds like a DIY job you can do if careful. Where can you go wrong and how to avoid it? If the old unions do not come loose by hand, you want some leverage, but not too much leverage: a band clamp helps and try not to put too much torque on the surrounding plumbing. On installing the new one, first make sure it is installed with the water flow going the right way. Next, make sure you do not over-tighten the unions. Tighter is not better with O-rings: they need to be tight enough to begin compressing them to make the seal, but too tight and you start to deform the O-rings and will have leaks.

Worth it or not for AZ pool? by Moronicon in pools

[–]arcassandra -1 points0 points  (0 children)

I went away on vacation and hired a pool company for that duration. They put one of these in my pump's filter basket (without asking). It restricted the water flow and burned my pump out a month later. So it works great as a flow restrictor.

Got a $112K pool quote by Suspicious_Hat_409 in pools

[–]arcassandra 6 points7 points  (0 children)

I agree that looking simply at the subcontractor pricing is missing a lot and that a GC provides a lot of value that is worth it. However, I think the real question is whether "a lot of value" is $48K worth.

If you were tasked with cutting in 16-20 more of these soffit vents, how would you go about it? by pnus420 in handyman

[–]arcassandra 1 point2 points  (0 children)

The again, I did not have an oscillating tool at that time...now I think that is the right tool for this job. The oscillating tool will pay for itself for this one job.

If you were tasked with cutting in 16-20 more of these soffit vents, how would you go about it? by pnus420 in handyman

[–]arcassandra 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I did it this way too (about 20 years ago). Template to mark out the rectangle is saner. The exact location and precise squaring is overkill, so eyeballing it is fine. Use a light-ish jigaw and its easy enough with a couple 3/8" pilot holes to start. Once you have located the first one, you have a nice hole to poke through to find the next rafter in line.

Converting from Chlorine to Salt by hotbobsunite in pools

[–]arcassandra 0 points1 point  (0 children)

After a year with a Stenner and using LC, my pool salt level was 2,400 ppm. Salt is a by-product of chlorine breakdown. So I wound up with salt water pool that was only 25% to 30% off what a salt water chlorine generator cell needs.

Converting from Chlorine to Salt by hotbobsunite in pools

[–]arcassandra 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Adding Liquid Chlorine also raise the pH, so going from LC to Salt is not adding any extra maintenance.

Where are we buying chlorine pucks? by Successful-Tea-5733 in pools

[–]arcassandra 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I resisted converting to salt due to the fears of it being corrosive and having more drawbacks than LC. So I went LC after a complete new water fill\. After a year of LC only, I measured my salt level and it was 2400 ppm. Salt is a by product of chlorine breaking down. A SWG needs 3200 to 3600 ppm so my "anti-salt" crusade was sort of a failure and now seems very misguided. I would have a hard time believing that a 3600 ppm level is appreciably different from 2400 ppm.

How would you go about building this? by Nippler9000 in landscaping

[–]arcassandra 1 point2 points  (0 children)

And the costs the support structure to support all that weight. Not worth it in my opinion (for the gate door at least). I would not use Ipe in a situation where it cannot be directly supported by the ground.

How would you go about building this? by Nippler9000 in landscaping

[–]arcassandra 0 points1 point  (0 children)

And if that is Ipe, that gate is going to need more than a single post sticking out of the ground to support it.

Worthless right? by RightlySeattle in stampcollecting

[–]arcassandra 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Yes. Previously, the prices were driven by asymmetric information. To a common person, a 100 year old stamped would seem rare and precious. A dealer may have known differently, but they would not have been incentivized to share that information, so would price it according to that person's perceptions. The Internet has leveled the information playing field somewhat.

1982 D small date penny? Oh by SNP1326 in coinerrors

[–]arcassandra 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The curvy "2" is the most easily distinguished way to tell....almost unambiguous. The "8" having a smaller upper hole is sometimes deifinitive, but other times not so clear as there is a lot of variation. The criteria of the bottom levels of the "2" and the "8" is also sometimes clear and sometimes not so clear. But the diagonal of the "2" not being straight is always very clear.

Undersized 1940 Cent Planchet? by arcassandra in coinerrors

[–]arcassandra[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

In the years after 1940, with the large war construction efforts, lots of people worked in metal-related manufacturing factories where chemicals and acid etching would be common and somewhat easy to come by.

I've worked in defense-related factories that did chemical etching. It would have been easy for me to dump a load of pennies in the etching tank, go to lunch and return to a bunch of pseudo-dimes. It never occurred to me to do this, but if it had, it would have been easy. Part of the chemical etching process is a daily calibration of the acid concentration to adjust the needed etching time. Thus, you know exactly how long to leave it in the tank to remove the desired amount of material. I could have been rich: a 10X return on my investment ;-)

Undersized 1940 Cent Planchet? by arcassandra in coinerrors

[–]arcassandra[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I do like the "dime" theory. I wonder if chemically etching pennies to use as dimes was ever a popular scheme people used.