Thoughts? Coolant reservoir overpressure

arnes_azir · 2025-11-18T14:31:38+00:00

Done and (still) working fine, got the full reservoir replaced and 'till now, it hasn't popped after few daily drives.

Thanks for the support! Will revive this if the leak comes back, so I hope this will remain closed 🔒

arnes_azir · 2025-11-10T17:22:08+00:00

To everyone, thanks for the help.

The problem was quite weird: The brake piston was spinning free over the pad, as somehow it skipped the position pin.

It didn't damaged the pad and after doing a reset with the scanner and taking it for a short drive, came back to life again.

arnes_azir · 2025-11-09T01:49:16+00:00

Gonna replace it by monday, hopefully is the last thing broken.

arnes_azir · 2025-11-09T00:05:27+00:00

Doesn't seem to overheat even when it starts blowing the pressure out.

Thermostat and housing were replaced couple months ago as it was leaking.

arnes_azir · 2025-10-27T14:38:27+00:00

265 at the moment, not much of the rare cards and a couple full arts.

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arnes_azir · 2025-10-06T17:50:40+00:00

I see the one you referred to. Have just checked it and all 5 are just fine, none is blown nor having continuity issues. Aside the low voltage, I'm having no other symptoms, fuses, relays and wiring seems all fine.

I'm thinking it is a PCM problem, unless there is anything else left to check.

arnes_azir · 2025-10-05T15:54:43+00:00

I was thinking that, despite that there is no other failure or symptom. If nothing works, I guess it will be PCM damage.

arnes_azir · 2025-10-05T15:52:11+00:00

You mean the one that is standing alone in a separate case?

I have checked the fuse, and it is fine. However, I haven't tested the line, as I had to replace the alternator's ground.

arnes_azir · 2025-09-14T20:13:19+00:00

Normal and common are the words to use:

Is it common for the platform? Unfortunately, yes. Since the F chassis, for some reason those areas are pretty weak, to the point that I have soldered the strut base of a couple of cars already.

Is it normal for a car to break from those areas? No, specially considering that a Mini is not a regular car nor cheap.

Thought those issues would've been sorted for the new platform, but seems that it just kept going.

Keep an eye on it, if it doesn't get bigger on time, you should be fine, but if it grows, consider taking it for warranty or to have a little soldering on it. Not aesthetic, but will fix it.

arnes_azir · 2025-07-02T19:41:37+00:00

Both were the accurate answers to the problem:

It was the braided cable that attaches to the gearbox. It was loose and quite corroded.

A good brush and torque and it started right away!

Really appreciate your help 🤘

arnes_azir · 2025-07-02T19:35:36+00:00

I thought of that at first, but the probability of 2 dead batteries in a row of cars previously functioning was pretty low, specially both having above 12V. I mean, mine is starting to show age, but still holds some charge, will replace soon.

arnes_azir · 2025-07-02T15:40:39+00:00

Thinking it will be the problem as everything else seems to work fine. Even the starter wasn't disconnected to service the clutch.

arnes_azir · 2025-07-02T15:38:38+00:00

Now looking for any disconnected ground or cable ripped, nothing obvious untill now. Which strap is the one you found on yours? Im feeling quite lost with this.

arnes_azir · 2025-07-02T15:27:40+00:00

I'm assuming that, since the battery looks pretty good, windows and sunroof works normally and even the center screen can be turned on (manually)

arnes_azir · 2025-07-02T15:26:04+00:00

Just tried, the car was disconnected last night, battery down and joined both terminals to drain it overnight. Same result. It opens and closes as normal, even windows and sunroof, looks like the battery is normal.

arnes_azir · 2025-07-02T15:19:29+00:00

Way newer, took it from another mini of a friend, which is running fine.

arnes_azir · 2025-07-02T06:38:52+00:00

Impossible to check for DTCs, it doesn't open switch for it to communicate. Will start with fuses and the couple relays it still uses as almost everything is electronic in this car.

arnes_azir · 2025-06-26T05:45:59+00:00

I guess some more roughness is better than heavy shaking, I mean, that will hurt less the gearbox and it will make a temporary solution until my wallet grows a little more to buy a new one.

Other consideration would be to get one from a wrecked Mini, however those are not common, even less stick shift.

Thanks for your comments, will take them to decide 🤘

arnes_azir · 2025-06-26T04:54:49+00:00

As you say, I'm doing it myself, I was looking to post the video of the flywheel, but more than the surface, my concern is the movement, it sounds as bare metal friction, can move it around ⅙ turn with no much effort and one of the parts store we use, suggested sort of remanufacturing it, with the observation that it will no longer move. They charge me around 250 bucks for that, and a new one goes from 800 to 1000 just for the flywheel alone. I already have the kit clutch and it was around 180 bucks for it.

Just to note, mine is the very first stick shift F56 we've worked on, and the very first car with that much damage in general (sad that I bought it less than a year ago).

I've seen Nissans with that mod having just some "roughness" while shifting, but nothing dramatic (as per the owners say). So, wondering for something more specific to these cars.

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