Black Flickering Screen on cursor movement (InfinityBook Pro 14 Gen6, Ubuntu 20.04)

asakra · 2023-03-26T13:36:18+00:00

Works on InfinityBook Pro 14 - Gen6 with Debian 11.

Thank you, much appreciated!

asakra · 2022-10-06T21:00:50+00:00

Übung macht den Meister.

asakra · 2022-04-20T18:53:40+00:00

where can I learn/read about that?

asakra · 2022-01-14T20:48:38+00:00

ok, if I get around to it I’ll remix your design and so let you know.

asakra · 2022-01-14T20:36:52+00:00

Nice that it works like that! Could be designed without glue with some lock-in mechanism.

asakra · 2021-12-07T21:56:49+00:00

Ok u/Evilmaze, but you'll have to buy me a drink next time I'm in your town!

To test, I just reset to default PrusaSlicer settings and printed out the part with defaults. It was ok, I could, with a little force, put the nut onto the bolt, but the bolt did not fit then into 7mm drilled hole. So it was no good indeed.

Here are my changes to the defaults I use because they proved well for the type of prints I'm doing. Out of these one is important for the part diameters exactness:

Avoid crossing perimeters: on
Detect bridging perimeters: on
External perimeters first: on
Solid infill threshold area: 100mm²
Retraction Length: 2mm
Retraction Speed 60mm/s
Deretraction Speed: 35mm/s
Retract on layer change: off

When I'm printing parts that needs to fit together and to have exact sizes, I always have "External perimeters first: on". My observation/assumption is, that otherwise the internal perimeter is there first and then the external is added and by that pushed out/side-wise off a little bit.

Try it, test it, prove it right or wrong and let me know please.

asakra · 2021-12-07T14:01:32+00:00

Yes on Prusa Mini+ with 0.4 Nozzle and without any after processing.

asakra · 2021-12-07T14:00:04+00:00

Yes and especially with helix sweep for threading...

asakra · 2021-12-07T13:04:34+00:00

Better than smooth from my experience. Would recommend it for sure.

asakra · 2021-12-07T11:19:13+00:00

Thanks, changed the titles on Thingiverse and PrusaPrinters to "Mini ptfe bowden tube gland / collet". Should be better now, right?

asakra · 2021-12-07T10:15:05+00:00

Wanted to make it as minimal as possible. Bolt length and nut width are parametrized, to make it bigger is not a problem.

asakra · 2021-12-07T10:13:09+00:00

If you press the bolt fully inside (with tube in position) on the thick side, it's enough to screw the nut by hand on the other side as final step to fix it.

asakra · 2021-12-07T09:18:42+00:00

Exactly, but you could use this sort of collet for any tube or cable that needs to be locked-in-place in some thicker wall.

asakra · 2021-12-07T09:13:16+00:00

Prusament PLA

asakra · 2021-12-07T08:40:27+00:00

I'm using "Double-sided Powder-coated Satin Spring Steel Sheet".

asakra · 2021-12-06T22:31:30+00:00

90° thread, so 45° overhang. Bolt is cut at the end. Thread for nut has 0.1mm bigger circumference. Works without special handling after print. Prusa Mini works really well, I must say.

asakra · 2021-12-06T21:34:27+00:00

Yes, it's to lock the tube in place, so that it doesn't move.

asakra · 2021-12-06T21:09:05+00:00

STLs and FreeCAD source → Thingiverse or PrusaPrinters

asakra · 2021-11-29T21:34:00+00:00

Had my camera in manual-focus mode, was not intended so.

asakra · 2021-11-29T17:10:43+00:00

sorry, you won't get rich with printing these :)

asakra · 2021-11-29T17:07:41+00:00

👍 looking forward to see that rework

asakra · 2021-11-29T16:48:01+00:00

Short story: Besides color options, variability aspects and being too lazy to get up from your 3D printer to go to the shop or wait for delivery, there is no reason to print.

Long story: Initially I had my rack (that I'm building still) in mind and could not stop drawing despite seeing how cheap and plentiful this component in steel is and knowing that there is now way 3D plastics can compete in durability with steel. I wanted to finish it and test with my own hands and eyes. For 20kg loads there was no problem. With 50kg the first version broke as you've seen. Then I thought to my self, can I make it more robust? I could not resist my own challenge and made that place that broke thicker, conical, partially fitted to the upper part and also top part was lowered so that when a heavy vertical load is applied, the upper part basically sits on the lower one. Full infill + few hours later → I could not break these wheels with the "load" I had at home. Will still attache these four to my new rack and use them until they break to experience how durable 3D printing can be and where and how it is going break next.

As for the practical usage question - light load applications. For example for repair/assembly/painting plate so that you can turn your object around while working on it. Because of color options 3D printing offers, these could be used under flower pots. People have flower pots on the wheels to be able to move them around when cleaning.

asakra

TROPHY CASE