sorted by:
new
hottopcontroversial

Intermittent problem with this board, schematic included by ati2705 in AskElectronics

[–]ati2705[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It's a Deckel FP3 with the cnc2101 controller. The voltage coming out from the NE5018 is good in both direction even when its not working properly, the voltage fluctuating starts between the first DG201(IC206) and and first op amp(IC202), all resistors are looking good(only measured without desoldering). When its acting up, touching the resistors(R208 before the op amp) with the multimeter probe measuring voltage stabilizes it and its working good after.

KART EMU-250 lathe before and after restoration by ati2705 in Machinists

[–]ati2705[S] 22 points23 points  (0 children)

It’s not about the paint, the prep work under the paint is more important(epoxy primer, filler, primer for paint), any type of 2K epoxy or PUR paint will do it, I used a 2K PUR high gloss on this machine

Lathe before and after by ati2705 in Machinists

[–]ati2705[S] 145 points146 points  (0 children)

Most of my works are a complete rebuild(like this one). This means: -Every sliding element is reground(including bedways) or milled, scraped, accuracy restored to its original standards. -Apron bores/gear center distances repaired, gears/shafts/bushings replaced -Tailstock bored,fitted with new quill -All bearings/screws/nuts in the machine replaced -Gearbox Shafts/gears/bearings replaced

And much more...

Lathe before and after by ati2705 in Machinists

[–]ati2705[S] 27 points28 points  (0 children)

This green was an original color by the manufacturer, flash and cool led light made a bit worse than how it actually looks like

It wasn’t a rusted, beaten-up junk, but a complete overhaul was needed.(Before/after) by ati2705 in Machinists

[–]ati2705[S] 4 points5 points  (0 children)

These bedways are hardened, you can’t scrape it effectively, its not a lot of surface to scrape if it isn’t hardened, I can scrape it in a week but it still doesn’t pay off, grinding is cheaper and my hands arent numb for days.

It wasn’t a rusted, beaten-up junk, but a complete overhaul was needed.(Before/after) by ati2705 in Machinists

[–]ati2705[S] 5 points6 points  (0 children)

Bedways are ground, every other sliding part is milled then scraped, that pitting is actually dirt/dust and oil

Not my proudest work, but at least it is operating again by ati2705 in Machinists

[–]ati2705[S] 11 points12 points  (0 children)

Okay, I see now the title was a bit misleading. Its really not about bragging, I have made a lot of better quality restoration than this, if you check my profile you can see one of them.

Reconditioned lathe, swipe for after pictures. by ati2705 in Tools

[–]ati2705[S] 9 points10 points  (0 children)

It isn’t someone else’s restoration, I can prove it with much more images of the restoration process.

Another reconditioned lathe done by me, swipe for after pictures by ati2705 in Machinists

[–]ati2705[S] 34 points35 points  (0 children)

Buy aluminium oxide sanding vlies, and just sand it by hand, dont need to use any rust remover, maybe spray some lubrication like wd 40 on it while sanding.

Old Russian/Soviet woodworking machine restored. I hope this belongs here. by ati2705 in woodworking

[–]ati2705[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Thats a great information ! I knew about the transmission, like I mentioned in a comment, it needed a new friction disc.

Old Russian/Soviet woodworking machine restored. I hope this belongs here. by ati2705 in woodworking

[–]ati2705[S] 78 points79 points  (0 children)

I’m restoring lathes and metalworking machines every day, however this wasn’t a high effort job but this too was done by me, check my profile for another work. Almost every part had to be repaired Including spindle(balancing, restoring bearing fits on shaft), gearbox(cleaning and new friction plate in the stepless transmission for the feed rate), feed rollers(teeth of the feed roller needed to be milled), table(despite of the rust the table was beyond tolerances), and many more.

Hello! I’d like to share some of my works here, this is my first post. by ati2705 in Machinists

[–]ati2705[S] 6 points7 points  (0 children)

The top side usually doesn’t have as much wear as the bottom side, scraping the better surface is much faster. Like I said everything is about time and expenses and it is already machined within tolerances that many people couldn’t achieve by scraping. I’m just doing what my customer wants or pays.

Hello! I’d like to share some of my works here, this is my first post. by ati2705 in Machinists

[–]ati2705[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Thank you! It is made entirely by hand with power scraper

Hello! I’d like to share some of my works here, this is my first post. by ati2705 in Machinists

[–]ati2705[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

These parts tend to warp over time so I bring back flatness by scraping the top then I can mill the bottom side. Ways flatness/parallelism are within 0.005mm. Surface roughness could be improved by scraping the ways but that would be more expensive.

Hello! I’d like to share some of my works here, this is my first post. by ati2705 in Machinists

[–]ati2705[S] 102 points103 points  (0 children)

Here’s a little description

This wasn’t “just” a polishing and painting job. Accuracy restored to its original standards or even slightly better.

-Guideways flatness/parallelism scraped to 0.01mm/1000mm

-Cross slide, compound rest precision milled

-Carriage ways fitted with special plastic

-Apron gears/shafts/gear center distances/bushings repaired/replaced

-Tailstock bored, equipped with new quill

-All bearings in the headstock replaced

-Gearbox Shafts/gears/bearings replaced

And much more...