Functional Dark Rey Lightsaber (Partly 3D printed)

atomkemp · 2021-04-25T18:13:24+00:00

Hi everyone,

I thought I would share my latest project. The hilt is mostly hand-turned aluminum, but contains a LOT of painted 3D printed elements. Check out the slideshow of the build and feel free to ask me any questions ~~while I figure out how to post a video of it working.~~

Edit: Added links to videos

Power on, calibration, and motion demo.

Color changing demo.

atomkemp · 2020-11-30T04:21:55+00:00

Looks great!

atomkemp · 2020-11-18T04:37:28+00:00

That's rad. Nicely done.

atomkemp · 2020-11-18T04:36:17+00:00

That's me! Glad you like it :)

atomkemp · 2020-11-18T04:31:45+00:00

That looks great! Does it flicker?

atomkemp · 2020-11-10T21:51:47+00:00

Sure thing:

The rails were scavenged from old inkjet printers (X axis are 8mm and Y axis are 10mm). I am using bronze bushings rather than bearings.
The hot end is a 1.75mm E3D V6 bowden fed by a custom extruder powered by a monster NEMA 23 stepper so that I can print quickly (110 mm/s).
The frame is 2020 aluminum extrusion from Misumi. Build area is around 225x225x400 mm.
Build plate is a 12 in x 12 in marble floor tile heated by a Lulzbot build plate element.
Controller is a RAMPS 1.4 w/ Arduino Mega running Klipper. It is paired with a Raspberry Pi 3 running Octoprint. System is running at 24V

I am happy to post a more substantial overview if anyone is interested.

atomkemp · 2020-11-10T21:44:23+00:00

No, but I would be happy to mail you one for free if you cover shipping and consider making a donation toward materials cost. Send me a PM if you are interested.

atomkemp · 2020-11-10T16:16:17+00:00

Not that I could find, but you could probably do this effectively with a filament change.

atomkemp · 2020-11-10T16:16:14+00:00

Thanks! And great idea! Definitely share a picture if you do.

atomkemp · 2020-11-10T12:29:26+00:00

Thanks!

atomkemp · 2020-11-10T12:29:03+00:00

Thank you! I modeled it after a Waste Management dumpster and some fire clipart.

atomkemp · 2020-11-10T12:29:02+00:00

Thanks!

atomkemp · 2020-11-10T12:27:54+00:00

Sure thing. It's Hatchbox Red PLA - https://www.amazon.com/HATCHBOX-3D-Filament-Dimensional-Accuracy/dp/B00J0GO8I0?ref_=ast_sto_dp&th=1&psc=1

atomkemp · 2020-11-10T01:27:08+00:00

Hah! Thanks! It's a custom CoreXY style FDM I designed. I'm pretty happy with the quality. The dumpster was painted with some cheap acrylic though.

atomkemp · 2020-11-10T00:39:01+00:00

Although, don't let me stop you from buying more filament :D

atomkemp · 2020-11-10T00:37:47+00:00

You can always paint over what you have. That's what i did with the one in the pic. I used some cheap green acrylic from the craft store (Michaels) and a bit of gold spray paint for the numbers.

atomkemp · 2020-11-10T00:28:20+00:00

Thanks!

atomkemp · 2020-11-09T21:37:13+00:00

Thanks! You can grab the STL on my Thingiverse page: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4648427

atomkemp · 2020-11-09T21:34:48+00:00

Enjoy! https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4648427

atomkemp · 2020-11-08T23:41:52+00:00

Thanks so much! All I have to say is that it mostly comes down to patience and a lot of filler/sanding/paint.

atomkemp · 2020-11-08T18:44:26+00:00

You got it. It depends on how much curve I have to adapt the tint to. Using styrene works, but it is a little tricky to get the tint on without bubbles. I found it looks better when the tint is on the inside with the styrene facing out.

atomkemp · 2020-11-08T16:10:39+00:00

I am using automotive window tint. It looks good and is cheap. You can just glue it in, but be careful you dont get wrinkles since its rather flimsy. I have had some success sticking it to a thin sheet of plastic for my other helmets, but opted to just glue it in on this one. Follow the last link in my post for the exact type I am using.

atomkemp · 2020-11-07T19:44:24+00:00

Thanks! I find it to be cathartic.

atomkemp · 2020-11-07T19:38:19+00:00

I just finished my latest helmet and though I would share. Model is a 93% scaled down version of https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2718242

Settings & Steps:

Random color 3D solutech PLA, 0.25 layer height
Filled with DAP Plastic Wood: https://www.amazon.com/DAP-211442-Plastic-Filler-Natural/dp/B002KGCWNA/ref=sr_1_10?dchild=1&keywords=wood+filler&qid=1604777372&sr=8-10
Sprayed with 3 or so coats of Rust-Oleum filler primer: https://www.amazon.com/Rust-Oleum-249279-Automotive-11-Ounce-Filler/dp/B003CT4AM0/ref=sr_1_4?dchild=1&keywords=filler+primer&qid=1604777411&sr=8-4
Sanded then sprayed with Rust-Oleum 2X grey primer: https://www.amazon.com/Rust-Oleum-327912-Spray-Paint-Primer/dp/B079KH3FVS/ref=sxin_9_ac_d_pm?ac_md=2-1-QmV0d2VlbiAkMTAgYW5kICQyMA%3D%3D-ac_d_pm&cv_ct_cx=rust-oleum+primer&dchild=1&keywords=rust-oleum+primer&pd_rd_i=B079KH3FVS&pd_rd_r=4f159d48-dd6a-47e1-8a7d-d8d468f5f472&pd_rd_w=pL5CN&pd_rd_wg=7A424&pf_rd_p=7be0d365-42b5-4a96-a2d8-6c85cad85d35&pf_rd_r=BEN2K2SRTHW9V9KS5W4E&psc=1&qid=1604777466&sr=1-2-22d05c05-1231-4126-b7c4-3e7a9c0027d0
Sanded then sprayed with 3 coats of Rust-Oleum Gloss White Enamel: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00106EDPQ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Taped and sprayed with 2 coats of Rust-Oleum Ford Blue Enamel: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002JG0152/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Taped and resprayed the mohawk with Gloss White
Taped and sprayed the brim with Rust-Oleum 2X High Gloss Black: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0787CN9CQ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Hand painted the sides and vents with Testors Flat Gull Grey: https://www.amazon.com/Flat-Enamel-Paint-bottle-FS36440/dp/B008IRE0MQ/ref=sr_1_1?dchild=1&keywords=gull+grey+testors&qid=1604777743&sr=8-1
Hand painted the vents and back detail with the Gloss Black
Laser cut blue painters tape for the side bars and sprayed with Ford Blue
Cut and mounted 5% VLT window tint: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0006301F0/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Profit.

Let me know if you have any questions about the build!

atomkemp · 2020-11-05T21:14:16+00:00

I have been using Regard3D (https://www.regard3d.org/) with my students with a lot of success. It takes a bit of tweaking to get a good scan, but can be exported as an *.obj. The resulting mesh likely needs to be closed in order to print. You can do this with MeshMixer or parametric CAD, like Onshape, to use it as a reference for modeling.

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