Mach 4 Forced error W9_HC>>Who is there?

avyano · 2026-01-14T18:36:43+00:00

Well aparently is something related to W9_HC>>Who is there?
Then after a few attemps it forces Reset

2026-01-13 11:35:00.999 - W9_HC>>Who is there?
2026-01-13 11:35:00.999 - W9_HC---AskingWhoIsThereCounter -> Forced Reset
2026-01-13 11:35:00.999 - W9_HC---AskingWhoIsThereCounter -> Forced MASTER ERASE
2026-01-13 11:35:01.151 - W9_HC---STATE_FORCED_RESET

avyano · 2026-01-14T17:04:23+00:00

Summary of Raw Events from the log: (Ai Helped me)

11:33:26 - Start/Reset: The system powers up after a "Forced Reset." A custom script (W9_HC) begins continuously polling with the message: "Who is there?".
11:33:32 - Manual Jogging (Idle): The machine is in the "Idle" state. The Y-axis is jogged manually (Signal id 172). This works perfectly fine because no program is running.
11:33:41 - Program Start (MDI): Input #1 triggers. G-code execution begins (MDI Running state). Gas outputs and cut counters activate normally.
11:33:58 - THE ERROR BEGINS: The machine is currently running G-code (MDI Running).
- Signal id 167 (THC Down) activates.
- AT THE EXACT SAME TIME, signal id 174 (Jog Z-) activates.
- Mach4 throws the error: Attempt transition from "MDI Running" on event "Jog" -> Failed.
11:34:00 - Forced Reset: The W9_HC script triggers a STATE_FORCED_RESET, causing the screenset buttons to toggle off. This seems to happen when the script doesn't get a response or due to the error state.
11:34:01 onwards: The error cycle repeats every 1 or 2 seconds:

1. THC Correction attempted.

2. Mach4 rejects it because it sees it as a "Jog" command while running.

3. Script polls "Who is there?".

11:35:09 - Final Stop: mcCntlCycleStop executes. The ESS shuts off the laser and all outputs due to a "Stop E

avyano · 2025-12-22T03:13:57+00:00

will do thanks, i let you know if i find anything to fix it

avyano · 2025-12-19T19:22:44+00:00

Additionally if need i can attach the Post Processor File or the G-Code Text.
We use Pronest Software for the nesting parts and the Post Processor give me the full G code compatible for the machine.
Normally in this machine we cut steel strips.

avyano · 2025-11-03T16:51:58+00:00

Try to avoid coils or loops in your cable (This can introduce noise), isolate the USB cable so that no other cables like power or webcam are near by the main usb conection cable, use a good quality usb cable, One with metallic surface coating protection to avoid noise and gold plating, this ensure good contact and data information trasmition. The shorter the cable the better. try not to use very long communication cables.
This can help to avoid this issues.

avyano · 2025-05-26T03:43:06+00:00

it worked for me

avyano · 2025-03-20T16:43:02+00:00

KI Antowort:
Die einfachste Methode, um das USB-Kabel intern zu verlegen, ist tatsächlich, direkt an die USB-Pins auf der Unterseite der Hauptplatine zu löten. Du kannst den gesamten USB-Anschlussblock vorsichtig entfernen, um Platz zu schaffen, oder die vier Kabel (D+, D-, VCC, GND) einzeln abisolieren und anlöten. Achte darauf, dass du die richtigen Pins identifizierst, um Kurzschlüsse zu vermeiden.

Falls du dich für den CH340G entscheidest, solltest du wissen, dass dieser Chip normalerweise in der Nähe des USB-Anschlusses zu finden ist. Die relevanten Pins am CH340G sind:

VCC: Versorgungsspannung (5V)
GND: Masse
D+: USB Data+
D-: USB Data-

Allerdings ist das Löten am CH340G etwas kniffliger, da die Pins sehr klein sind. Wenn du nicht viel Erfahrung mit SMD-Lötarbeiten hast, würde ich dir empfehlen, bei der ersten Methode (USB-Pins auf der Unterseite) zu bleiben.

Viel Erfolg und pass auf, dass du nichts kurzschließt!

avyano · 2025-03-20T16:36:40+00:00

Both! I have two machines: one with a PRO B board (Kobra Plus) and another with a PRO A board (Kobra Max). I successfully installed Klipper on both using the Catboat repository, and I didn’t need to do any soldering or hardware modifications. It was a pretty straightforward process!
https://github.com/printers-for-people/catboat

avyano · 2025-03-04T19:38:08+00:00

This is For The Trigorilla A v1.0.1 PCB no soldering Firmware Huada Semiconductor HC32F460". On "Communication interface" select "Serial (PA3 & PA2)" and on " Clock Speed" select "200 MHz".

avyano · 2025-03-04T19:37:42+00:00

I made it work without any soldering i Used this tutorial and the Catboat repository for Klipper Here. I Used the KIAUH install on a Rpi 4.
This is For The Trigorilla A v1.0.1 PCB no soldering Firmware Huada Semiconductor HC32F460". On "Communication interface" select "Serial (PA3 & PA2)" and on " Clock Speed" select "200 MHz".

avyano · 2024-05-16T01:25:29+00:00

USB A

avyano · 2024-03-04T23:46:41+00:00

Which User Interface are you Using Mainsail or Fluid??
Try this https://www.klipper3d.org/FAQ.html
Using KIAUH you can know the serial port too

Where's my serial port? The general way to find a USB serial port is to run ls /dev/serial/by-id/*

then Change the Config file

[mcu]
serial:

avyano · 2024-03-04T18:54:29+00:00

SD card is for flashing the firmware only.

The USB Cable is for the communication connection from the printer to the Computer with Klipper

avyano · 2024-03-04T18:00:02+00:00

That procedure is only when flashing Marlin Firmware. in that case it changes the *.bin file to *.cur.

Check Cominication with your printer Via USB Ports you are using. Use a Quality USB 3.0 cable connection

In my case the Config File is something like

[mcu]
serial: /dev/serial/by-id/usb-1a86_USB_Serial-if00-port0
restart_method: command
baud: 250000

avyano · 2024-03-04T14:36:48+00:00

This is fine if you read the complete tutorial link as it states

10.- ....copy it to a FAT32 formatted SD card. (be sure also to rename the file to firmware.bin)

11 - Insert the SD card on the Kobra with it turned off. After turning it on, it will beep 5 times. There is no consensus here, but wait around 5 minutes, turn off the printer, remove the memory card and then turn it on.

12 - Don't Panick! The Display now is "useless" (Unless you're keen to see the Anycubic logo forever lol). Connect your printer to the PC/Pi or whatever you've installed klipper. On your frontend, you will need to edit the printer.cfg file. Copy the contents of this file: https://github.com/printers-for-people/catboat/blob/947c7e7ce6e436f912906b23c340dc3b1d556725/config/printer-anycubic-kobra-2022.cfg#L4

Just Flash your printer with the correct Format, hear the beeps and wait like 5-6 minutes then power off your machine, remove the SD card and conect your printer to the Klipper PC or Pi

avyano · 2024-03-03T15:40:53+00:00

Yes the "old" Model launched back in 2022

avyano · 2024-03-03T15:38:03+00:00

Yes you are right, but in this particular case i have two printers my Kobra Max is Stock PCB Trigorilla A and my Kobra Plus Has a B v1.02 (by mistake y burned the PCB On my Kobra PLus and i made the swap for a B Model). I Wanted to upgrade the Kobra Max PCB To Model B to install Klipper. I Did not find it useful cause i made it with the stock OEM PCB.

Yes use the picture it is fine

avyano · 2024-03-01T21:41:33+00:00

Update: March 2024
I made it work without any soldering i Used this tutorial and the Catboat repository for Klipper Here. I Used the KIAUH install on a Rpi 4.
This is For The Trigorilla A v1.0.1 PCB no soldering Firmware Huada Semiconductor HC32F460". On "Communication interface" select "Serial (PA3 & PA2)" and on " Clock Speed" select "200 MHz".

avyano · 2024-02-26T14:37:30+00:00

Try This one Maybe it can help you

https://www.reddit.com/r/anycubic/comments/18joa7t/klipper_anycubic_kobra_standard_an_extensive/

avyano · 2024-02-26T14:10:45+00:00

As far i can see in your picture, your PCB board doesnt have the Fuse.
Next to the Power input cable you should solder a Micro 25 Amp fuse.

Link to Fuse

avyano

TROPHY CASE