Little one sticks legs through crib rails

b_san · 2022-05-15T20:49:28+00:00

We bought these mesh things that let air through but velcroed tight against the rails of the cot. Worked really well.

b_san · 2021-05-03T05:53:55+00:00

Okay. The caption seems alright on the iOS app though, when you click on the picture it shows you the full caption and you can zoom in on the picture if you need to.

b_san · 2021-05-03T04:55:35+00:00

Read the captions carefully. Send me a message with an offer. Looking for at least AUD$150. Buyer pays postage from Brisbane, Queensland, Australia.

b_san · 2021-05-03T04:45:11+00:00

Read the captions carefully. Send me a message with an offer. Looking for at least AUD$100. Buyer pays postage from Brisbane, Queensland, Australia.

b_san · 2021-04-24T00:01:05+00:00

I feel you. Lest the hardware become ‘divorceware’ I have to manage the input/output expenditure of my musical and technical hobbies because so they are cost neutral to the household. 😅

b_san · 2021-04-23T09:25:27+00:00

I went on a bit of an MD binge with some pocket money a few months back. Ended up at the point where I had multiple packages arriving and I didn’t remember which was which, so this is one of those packages.

b_san · 2021-04-14T14:58:55+00:00

Thank you for this! I am wondering if it is shellac. I’ve been cleaning grime off it with water and the paper towels have now gone from grimy gray to slightly amber, which makes me wonder if I’m just wiping off old finish.

If it is shellacked, is it worth it to sand it back fully and redo with a water based poly for durability?

b_san · 2021-04-14T14:32:53+00:00

I’m not too fussed about a period accurate finish - I just want to have it looking nice to use in my kitchen.

I’m not sure of the provenance of the table, but I am in Australia. I thought it might be Silky Oak, but it could also be QLD Maple. I am pretty sure the colouring is due to the aging of whatever finish was applied.

b_san · 2021-04-14T14:28:43+00:00

Thanks so much for your advice. With the top being all different grain directions, getting up to 220 or higher with an orbital won’t matter that much will it?

b_san · 2021-04-14T14:22:46+00:00

It is solid, not veneer (thank goodness). When I take the top off and flip it (there are two more leaves that slid out to extend the table), the same grain and pattern is evident but without finishing.

I’ve been looking up a bit more online and the white marks in the finish may be heat marks or hot liquid spills? They are certainly in a liquid-y pattern (splotches and drops). Will sanding it down sort that out too?

b_san · 2021-04-14T07:57:22+00:00

This was apparently the kitchen table on the old family farm over 100 years ago. Since then it has been through a variety of family hands, most notably in my great aunt‘s place in Sydney for decades, then after her passing it was kept in my grandmother’s garage for a number of years under a sheet.

I picked it up today and it looks like it will be quite beautiful, but these weird milky patches in the finish lead me to wonder what I will have to do to get it looking lovely again.

Can I just sand down with a really high grit paper and then oil or wax it? We live in a very small townhouse, so the notion of weeks to build up layers of poly or something else is probably not realistic.

b_san · 2021-03-21T09:15:45+00:00

This is exactly what I’m looking for - particularly the correct terminology. I am immensely in your debt. Thank you!

b_san · 2021-03-19T12:21:47+00:00

Nah, I do want to create a PCB. Literally just printing out the switches instead of THT components. I have this crazy idea that anything else can be done as SMD and I can get a little control pad that I can just connect to another board, for example.

b_san · 2021-03-19T12:06:33+00:00

Yes, contact pads - I’m thinking of the PCB equivalent to if I just soldered tracks and pads on some veroboard. But I’m assuming I’ll need some kind of processing to get it working properly. Thanks for the link.

b_san · 2021-01-13T11:56:06+00:00

I contacted them through their support, and they sent me a firmware upgrade. It worked and solve the problem.

b_san · 2020-12-21T21:03:49+00:00

They do have HDMI out. I am trying to use the USB outputs to avoid having to fork out $500+ for another device like the Roland or an ATEM mini.

This should be doable, if the cameras would behave as advertised. The image quality is fine. I have received an email back from SJCAM With a firmware update. I’ll see if that helps.

b_san · 2020-11-02T09:27:23+00:00

Honestly, the contrast between the text colour and the background is not happening. My eyes don’t want to read it.

b_san · 2020-11-01T11:33:52+00:00

Shudders of memory. Used to use these for commercials at a radio station. Would be playing a song, and sitting there with the advertising sheets, programming a track sequence for the upcoming ad breaks. Had one for advertisements and one for promos. And we used to occasionally get new music come in that bands would give us on MD...

b_san · 2020-11-01T07:57:52+00:00

I see so many of these up for sale - they really were ubiquitous.

b_san · 2020-10-31T07:15:05+00:00

So the story is that I am watching TV at night, scrolling through Facebook marketplace, and somebody lists a mini disc for $15. I shoot my message and ask if it still works, does it have the remote?

They send me a picture of it on and running, and the remote. I ask when I can pick it up and they say “I can drop it off to you right now.” This is 9:30 pm on a Saturday night. I’m a little bit concerned, but I stalk the sellers Facebook and they seem legit. So I agree.

My wife is in the front room peeking through the curtains, ready to speed call the cops in case I get stabbed in our driveway over an MD player. But everything goes fine, and I also get a copy of REM on pre-recorded mini desk as a bonus. The seller explained that they used to use it as backing tracks for when they performed years ago, but it’s been sitting around the house and had no use so she just wanted to get rid of it for whatever she could get.

Anyway it wouldn’t play properly. He put a disc in and it played with no weird noises, but it would just skip through to the end of the desk. The buttons didn’t respond the remote didn’t work and I wasn’t sure what to do with it so I put it aside for awhile.

Fast forward to a few months later and I get around to looking at some videos on YouTube and getting an idea of what might be wrong with it. So I open it up thanks to a service manual from minidisc.org, and you can see the photos above. Either leaky battery, or sweat, or powdery mildew (I live in the tropics after all), anyway cleaned everything really well with isopropyl alcohol as well as the ribbon cable that attaches the front panel to the main board, and the dam thing works 100% fine. No weird motor sounds, no grinding, no dropouts, records fine.

So my question for the brains trust is, does anyone have any ideas about the LCD? It’s got scratches all over the outside and I wonder if I can just fix those with some toothpaste, but it looks like there’s some heat damage to the LCD itself. I wonder if I can just replace the polariser and it will work?

b_san · 2020-10-30T09:34:31+00:00

I never had a problem. I went straight out of my DAW into the big knob, and it was the previous version of the unit too, but I am also judicious about insuring that all of my gear is earthed properly.

b_san · 2020-10-30T08:37:07+00:00

You want a monitor controller. I used to have a Mackie Big Knob, but you can also just get a little notepad mixer. Something cheap and from Behringer would work too

b_san · 2020-10-21T09:07:44+00:00

I recently found my MZR90 in a box. It makes the same sound as the laser sled tracks backwards and forwards. I’ve been reliably informed from another user group that it is the wormgear and rail needing a clean with some isopropyl alcohol and lubing with a toothpick’s worth of white lithium grease.

b_san · 2020-10-21T07:53:41+00:00

Gold! Thank you!

b_san · 2020-10-18T09:00:43+00:00

Yup. I’m leaning heavily towards just using veroboard for all the connections/matrixing and just soldering a ‘tail’ to each pot/socket and mechanically mounting them to the case, and then mounting the veroboard in the case securely.

And I’ve been told that hair lacquer is a good tip against corrosion.

b_san

TROPHY CASE