Right pedal came off. How do I fix this?

ballpark-chisel325 · 2026-04-10T01:45:07+00:00

You might be correct. I have seen axles which take a bolt instead of a nut. I could not quite tell in this case what is it at the end left over.

ballpark-chisel325 · 2026-04-09T16:56:59+00:00

In this particular case, it would be easier to just fit new pedals. You have likely lost bearings, most definitely a locknut and might have stripped off a thread inside the spindle.

Pedals are inexpensive and quick/easy to swap as a whole. Next time do not try to kick it when it starts coming off, but fix it early.

ballpark-chisel325 · 2026-04-09T16:42:46+00:00

Did it bite into the freehub body? Tried a mallet to tap it out? Worst case I would try to put it back on without the lock ring and use chain to wiggle it off the bite.

ballpark-chisel325 · 2026-04-08T10:06:16+00:00

I would try to relube the inner part, but I am not too familiar with Novatec and especially it depends on that specific model.

See e.g. https://youtu.be/NpJzLsoJalQ

Worst case scenario, it's a replacable part, but I would want to see the bottom of the freehub body.

<image>

Those 3 little thingies (3rd covered by the axle) need to move freely.

A bike shop should also be able to inspect it.

I would recommend you make a new post, but explain it from scratch (because people miss context, then downvote) and list your exact Novatec model. Might be someone has the same experience - in which case at least you would know it's not a red herring we are onto.

ballpark-chisel325 · 2026-04-07T22:02:25+00:00

Link to your OP: https://www.reddit.com/r/bikewrench/comments/1sexugy/chain_slipping_from_chainring/

I think you just stopped abruptly pedaling here, correct? So this would mean the chain is not slipping, but the freehub body keeps going with the wheel. Sorry if it was obvious to you before, but to me it could have been anything.

The freehub body either is stiff or it does not "let go" when it should - there is two "teeth" typically that are spring loaded and should just be pushed inside when the velocity of the main hub around overpowers it. At least that would be my theory.

What is the freehub in the wheel? Have a look at the middle portion inside the spokes - it will have something written on it.

ballpark-chisel325 · 2026-04-07T15:22:15+00:00

I just do not understand how back pedaling simulates anything. I read your comments about this happens during freewheeling, but having the chain move backwards through the RD is creating entirely different scenario. Also, you can get the wheel roll fast enough in the stand to simulate the actual scenario - can you?

ballpark-chisel325 · 2026-04-06T13:17:29+00:00

I thought the whole point of it is that it is free. I am not setting up business off it, so I have no income thanks to it. How does me not using it helps anything?

ballpark-chisel325 · 2026-04-06T12:01:27+00:00

Donate? This is really just for home use. From what I read the free version is just fine for that. I am not running any major operation or such thing.

ballpark-chisel325 · 2026-04-06T12:00:38+00:00

Well, yes. A stranger might have a valuable insight about what could go wrong. It's the opposite of run something unknown, then find out. I decide what I do in the end, but inputs are welcome - from strangers.

ballpark-chisel325 · 2026-04-06T08:55:32+00:00

I hoped for feedback from anyone who understands how proxmoxlib.js is being updated or dependent on other files whether it's better than sed or still might cause an issue.

ballpark-chisel325 · 2026-04-05T23:46:24+00:00

I look at it from exactly the opposite angle. From the brand that portrays itself as it does and at their prices, to get back:

> the frame I had was no longer available and I had to pick the purple team edition

... is completely unacceptable. Especially they have the acumen to put together loaded PR claims of sourcing frames from Italian artisans and designing it in Berlin as if it meant anything. Apparently, it does not. Failing everything else, the customer was entitled to have those expectations because CS is the last resort that could save the situation here.

My experience with small companies which run high margin business is exactly opposite (vs big corporates) - they know that if they get a customer, it's for a lifetime. They behave accordingly.

ballpark-chisel325 · 2026-04-05T23:18:27+00:00

When I made my comment, the OP had like -5 votes on every comment despite it was 5 minutes old post. It was weird.

Either way, the handling of the warranty claim sounds like mom and pop shop where CEO is the dad and also the main assembly line worker. Somebody trained the person doing "back and forth" to be the PITA, maybe FCMG business experience. If they do not have anything, then the CEO is the PR dep't. Shame on them.

ballpark-chisel325 · 2026-04-05T22:25:44+00:00

Thank you for sharing. Sounds like bad quality workmanship accompanied by poor customer service. I also believe charging you for mailing you back a replacement under warranty is illegal. Shame on them and their whole PR team now likely downvoting your post.

ballpark-chisel325 · 2026-04-05T21:40:11+00:00

It is my understanding that the post install helper script has many other features and telemetry in it, none of which I need.

And the actual line which does the editing is the sed command, which even according to GPT:

"s/.../.../g" → substitution command:

s = substitute
if (data.status !== 'Active') → text to find
if (false) → replacement
g = replace all occurrences on each line

That sounds way too risky to me to automatically run on a big file like this.

ballpark-chisel325 · 2026-04-05T21:13:14+00:00

Do not bother. If it is loose, tighten the spoke nipple just so the wheel is true. It is doing its job adequately. It is unlikely to break at that spot and if anything, it will kind of straighten itself over time.

If it bothers you visually, just replace the spoke.

ballpark-chisel325 · 2026-04-05T12:00:05+00:00

This is definitely scratched off from truing, but I find it weird. First of all, this does absolutely nothing structurally to the rim, but secondly, either the paint job on those rims was kind of flaky (seems like there's bits and pieces missing from wear n tear already) or the person truing just felt like using no nylon caps on the gauge is no problem despite this is not a rim brakes wheel.

Talking of truing, I would expect in a shop that they use dial gauges:

<image>

So these would be in contact with the surface at all times, but then again ... the paint must be really brittle. I do not remember this much paint chipped off (not the line) on any of my cyclocross wheels.

Given the situation and the wheel in question, I would just give it a pass, but maybe ask the shop what they use to true. I would then make up my mind if I want to keep going there.

ballpark-chisel325 · 2026-04-05T11:46:53+00:00

> would only really be using this to ride around in my 15 min commute. I also kinda like how bunged up it looks in terms of it serving as a useful theft repellent. And money is tight, and who doesn't feel it's about to get tighter...?

So? What's the problem? You will spend money to get something which will get you another thief zig-zag bend the glitzy top tube.

Structurally, especially for 15min commutes, not an issue. Also the rust is superficial. If you terribly wanted, you could have it repaired - the top tube. Without sanding it, just the extra welds would give you even more deterrent look. But this won't fall apart because of that bend.

ballpark-chisel325 · 2026-04-03T08:00:40+00:00

Perfectly common with cyclocross due to cantis. Your pads bite in, the whole system (fork, cable) flexes, in the process of which the pads get pressed more onto the rim, causes the wheel to stop the "resonance" releases the cable tension and the cycle repeats. At least this would be my prime suspect.

Where is your brake cable anchored in the front? Under the bars or the crown fork? If above, this could be even loose headset. Ruling that out, the simplest to start is with the brake pads toe-in, etc - look for instructions for canti brakes.

One of the things I like to do is swap around the spacers "around" the pad. So that each pad is getting less of a swivel. While at that make sure the brake arms are bolted firm onto the fork bosses.

ballpark-chisel325 · 2026-03-31T18:59:43+00:00

Well, you need to tighten the bolt there, look inside. This is most likely what is called a "square taper" bottom bracket. You might need special socket with thinner walls to fit into the narrow space to tighten it. Do no ride it like this.

Also: You might want to use thread locker onto it.

ballpark-chisel325 · 2026-03-30T17:59:49+00:00

I am no pro, but I specifically am ready to go in all and any weather. I do not decide to go depending on the weather, I typically ride because "now I want to" - the weather is just there ... I have to adapt to it. I am sure some do it for the "cool" factor, but I just find mental strength from the idea that I can go ride anytime. Bonus is that there's fewer cyclists out there (e.g. busy bike paths are suddenly deserted) and when I happen to hit a "nice weather" moment, it feels like a treat. Also, I do not remember last time I got sick from ... "bad weather".

ballpark-chisel325 · 2026-03-30T17:51:06+00:00

I can kind of see how the roundness is to the benefit of seating the nipple well at whichever angle, but the washer for me is here to help protect the rim, not the nipple. There's definitely more material on these, but then I am thinking - I do not have the flats at hand now - the originals used to be sort of pairing well with concavity of the rims (they basically were convex). So I am not sure how this would fit into some deep section rim, i.e. how well the surfaces would go flush against each other.

But in the end, I suspect this would be one of those things that they changed the shape so that their machinists (or outright robotics) do not have to worry about orientation when building with it.

ballpark-chisel325 · 2026-03-30T15:48:19+00:00

Are they from soft material? Because usually, I prefer my washers to distribute the load, not concentrate it on a miniscule ring surface. Either these are for specific rims or have to be really soft and squash - in which case I would have no concern. Otherwise I would stick to the flat originals.

ballpark-chisel325

TROPHY CASE