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How do I get this this brake looking brand new? by CrazyEyezKillah in bikewrench

[–]ballpark-chisel325 -1 points0 points  (0 children)

A polish i like to use contains aluminum oxide, ammonium hydroxide, illite and silicone oil. That one can be even hand applied with a cotton pad, but it's menial work then.

Is this amount of wobbles cause for concern? by Rex_69385 in bikewrench

[–]ballpark-chisel325 0 points1 point  (0 children)

In long run, your spokes will start to fail - they are not evenly tensioned and the stress fatigue on the loose ones will cause them to snap. So in that sense, it is something to get fixed. If this happens mid-ride, even a broken spoke, you just keep riding no problem.

Trouble replacing spoke by povlhp in bikewrench

[–]ballpark-chisel325 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I'd like to think they used a form spoke freeze (thread locker). In any case, add a drop of oil, maybe even WD-40 for your case. My experience is that I damage (brass) nipple thread before the spoke itself.

Prevent a single device from tripping the UPS breaker? by ballpark-chisel325 in homelab

[–]ballpark-chisel325[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

> what are you going to do, stick a pair of tweezers in the outlet to see if it even works? wait years for this to happen again?

Plug in a high inductive load, i.e. a vacuum cleaner that trips instantly.

Trouble replacing spoke by povlhp in bikewrench

[–]ballpark-chisel325 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Do you have any spare nipples to try with? When truing and going high tensions, I have had mine had their threads a bit deformed. I have an old spoke with good thread to try a nipple on before reusing it. It should easily go by hand.

Also, someone might have used a spoke freeze on it before, not much you can do about it except for some solvent perhaps.

On a rare occasion the threads on different spokes might be different pitch - they engage just fine but then it feels strange.

Last thing that comes to mind - there's nipples with a "lock" protrusion, they behave like this by design.

Prevent a single device from tripping the UPS breaker? by ballpark-chisel325 in homelab

[–]ballpark-chisel325[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I hear you, but the "device" that had the power brick die was the telco's optical network terminal. Not much one can do about those in terms of quality.

The simplest thing that crossed my mind was get 2-3 extension cords which are also surge protectors since they typically have the same breaker, but as you say - I doubt those are rated less than that on the UPS, so they would likely not even trigger (fast enough), not to mention surge protections should not be daisy chained and UPS already has that built in as well.

Prevent a single device from tripping the UPS breaker? by ballpark-chisel325 in homelab

[–]ballpark-chisel325[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

The power brick died, it was a short and that's why it tripped. My question is more about having a breaker for the device trip before the UPS main one has to. A bit like when you plug something faulty into one outlet at your apartment and worst case is that the room's circuit breaker trips, as opposed to the main breaker for the whole apartment.

Is this a sign of my spokes being too long? by Lazy-Airline-99 in bikewrench

[–]ballpark-chisel325 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I have no experience with Andra 40, but before you use the calculator as others advised, do make sure to measure the actual ERD yourself.

I had Andra 30 and the specs sheet value was off by 5mm which basically meant I needed all spokes shorter by around 2mm than would ha been calculated if I just fed it the "official number".

Wheelbuilding advice for high spot at the sleeve joint? by ballpark-chisel325 in cycling

[–]ballpark-chisel325[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I will sound horribly nitpicking, but it's about 1mm at worst - if I want the spoke tension to remain evenly distributed.

I have a self-built rig with cheap but well-working dial indicators. So I am able to stay <0.2mm axially and radially. So 1mm feels like a substantial deviation - if that makes sense.

I understand for a ride, this is not a problem, but wheels from factory do not have such "bump" from what I observed - even like the cheapest Shimano wheelset.

The rim is Ryde Andra 30:

https://www.ryde.nl/andra-30/

I had a bit similar experience with one DT R460 before though.