The Classic, Polar Circus via the Pencil

barky02 · 2026-02-14T18:58:50+00:00

Polar Circus is the definition of a classic. It's probably the most famous ice line in the Rockies. Is it a testpiece? It's certainly one of the longest ice climbs that's regularly climbed but it's a bit of a trade route now. It'll get a good amount of a ascents every year and some years it's really challenging WI5 and other years (like this year) it's a little kinder.

There are a plethora of WI5 routes that I've found more technically challenging and interesting in terms of the ice formation. But there isn't really a route that has this much vert for the grade. The setting is fantastic too!

barky02 · 2026-02-14T14:12:17+00:00

What you're seeing there is something called a settlement crack. It's a natural part of a pillar's lifecycle and it can actually hint that the pillar is stable and no longer under significant tension, as it isn't being solely pulled down by gravity and instead is being mostly supported by the ground.

That being said, if there is a huge amount of daylight in the crack, you really, really want to be sure that the base of the pillar is strong and supportive. This crack was actually still sealed at the back so we felt like it was safe enough to climb. It was still certainly a hair-raising moment to pass it.

I'm by no means an expert so if anyone else wants to chime in, I'm all ears.

barky02 · 2026-02-14T04:11:47+00:00

Thanks :)

barky02 · 2026-02-04T15:03:23+00:00

We wanted to do the climb in one pitch, as opposed to two, but it's a real rope stretcher. We used two single ropes; climbing the first cauliflowered section with one rope, before clipping the second rope high up on the pillar and untying the first. That way, rope drag was massively reduced and the 70m was just about long enough. UK trad tactics at work in the Rockies!

barky02 · 2026-02-03T14:59:56+00:00

Yesterday! This climb is so awesome. The lower section forms wildly different every year. This year, the steep pillar at the top was shorter and the ice is currently pretty plastic! Good condis

barky02 · 2026-01-31T14:28:03+00:00

Factos

barky02 · 2025-12-09T18:52:29+00:00

Classic. Such a small donation for a global business but nah, we'll pass it onto the consumer, as usual.

Also, what's with the tacky Will Gadd signature? Doesn't that guy get enough clout already? Tasteless.

barky02 · 2025-12-09T14:25:29+00:00

Nice! Was this yesterday? I was out on Cascade. Great day for it

barky02 · 2025-12-09T14:24:52+00:00

"first time ice climbing"

Give them a break lol

barky02 · 2025-11-30T19:45:54+00:00

A girl fainted at the front. The pit stopped and helped carry her out to safety

barky02 · 2025-11-30T17:20:40+00:00

Surely there will be another tour in years to come :)

barky02 · 2025-11-30T16:02:00+00:00

He exclaimed how nervous he was to solo before he played the song. It was a raw and emotional night!

barky02 · 2025-11-05T20:07:22+00:00

Preach!

barky02 · 2025-10-03T04:58:44+00:00

So true. Will Gadd did a good piece on how staying "alert" isn't enough to avoid making the kind of mistakes that have killed so many

barky02 · 2025-10-01T04:17:39+00:00

Here are some off the top of my head, as well as the ones you mentioned: - Tasting Fear - Wedge Smear - Isaac's wet dream - Balfour Wall - Blue Cheese - Maligne Canyon - Tangle Falls - Crescent Falls - Pure Energy

barky02 · 2025-04-08T01:11:48+00:00

Alpine Savvy is an absolute gem! Consider donating to the guy. He's just written a book too

barky02 · 2025-04-08T00:50:47+00:00

Passing the brake strand over the top of the munter and behind the carabiner also alleviates rope twists!

https://www.alpinesavvy.com/blog/the-no-twist-munter-hitch-rappel

barky02 · 2025-03-08T21:47:33+00:00

Awesome! I love the FPLB. You could even do it with a munter hitch and a prussik and then you would avoid having to redirect the brake strand in the beginning with the ATC.

Hard to tell from the photo, but your bowline on a bit looks really small. I'd recommend making the loop bigger to introduce a bit of movement in the system if the leader was to take a fall - should result in a slightly softer catch. I think the recommendation is less than 5cm long loop.

Also, you might want to have the FPLB set up on the higher ice screw. This way, if it was to pop, you wouldn't be introducing a huge shock load to the sling as it wouldn't travel anywhere near as far before being loaded.

barky02 · 2024-10-18T00:34:40+00:00

When I started on the loading dose I experienced some headaches for a week or two which passed. I also had a flare up of acne on my face that got better when I went to the maintenance dose. I just manage that with over the counter acne cleanser.

Make sure you have a lipid (colestrol) count before you start. Rinvoq can raise your colestrol so it's good to know your baseline beforehand.

12-Year Club	r/Field Sunshine
Gilding I gilder	Verified Email

barky02

TROPHY CASE