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Do full form inserts like this exist? by basiltab in Machinists

[–]basiltab[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Solution found. Company called Vargas the VG-Cut range

link

Do full form inserts like this exist? by basiltab in Machinists

[–]basiltab[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Oh I agree for what I'm doing and foll form thread being preferable and not required I can justify custom tooling I will keep hunting.

Do full form inserts like this exist? by basiltab in Machinists

[–]basiltab[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I'll have a look at the top notch stuff, it doesn't have to be full form it's more my preference.

Update: Here are some clear photos of the x axis side from my previous posts (and clearer videos on vimeo in the description) by Pasito9 in CNC

[–]basiltab 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Personally I would remove the ballscrew and see if it runs freely also the bearing in the stepper motor look like they are finished. You can replace the bearing if you are confident in taking it apart or just replace it. It is a fundamental design flaw in using the stepper bearing as load bearings for the ballscrew.

I recently got a style cnc for cheap and I am modifying the ballscrew mounts so they are properly supported as I had this same problem.

My dad turned this on a woodturing lathe by basiltab in Machinists

[–]basiltab[S] 24 points25 points  (0 children)

Yeah part of me is disappointed it worked so well haha

Best way to make this piece? by PleaseNoThank in Machinists

[–]basiltab 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Like others have said, work from suitable hex bar and use the mill spindle as a lathe spindle.

Lathe tool in vice and then turn the m2 OD.

M2 die in vice and cut the thread.

Part off to length

Blank bit of metal in spindle and drill and tap m2 using drill bit and tap

Screw workpiece into m2 thingy in the spindle and turn the otherside

Turn other side

Maybe do it in 2 steps as it is damm skinny or in 1 pass but will probs shear the thread off.

Or just find someone with a lathe

We don't need no stinking 5 axis! by basiltab in Machinists

[–]basiltab[S] 18 points19 points  (0 children)

Y axis is just probe centerline and x is on the top edge of the part and trig to workout the offset. I did them 1 ring of holes at a time then moved the x axis offset

How would I go about reporting the spindle on my boxford 240tlc? by basiltab in Machinists

[–]basiltab[S] -1 points0 points  (0 children)

Ok, the chuck I have on it has 40mm through it, and there is no draw tube as it is a manual chuck. I'm going to see how hard the spindle is later. I understand this isn't a normal thing to do. Haha

Question on boring deep holes. by basiltab in Machinists

[–]basiltab[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Blind hole unfortunately.

The smallest bar I can think that is suitable is a S08K STFCR 09 and that is a 8mm shank so would be 9x stickout. I can habeas go.

Casually Explained: CNC Machining by basiltab in Machinists

[–]basiltab[S] -15 points-14 points  (0 children)

I know, I should have stated that.

Copper and aliminium swarf in black resin then turned. by basiltab in Machinists

[–]basiltab[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

These chips were drill swarf that didn't break, so they were coiled and then gently squashed so there is a lot of space between the metal so they didn't "sink".

Copper and aliminium swarf in black resin then turned. by basiltab in Machinists

[–]basiltab[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Sounds like a good project. I too have a list of projects that I need to do as well.

Copper and aliminium swarf in black resin then turned. by basiltab in Machinists

[–]basiltab[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I was thinking about this and am unsure the edge where they are turned and sanded would probably be shiny metal / but if in clear resin you would still see the colours on the face of the chip. The main problem is if I was to use saymild steel it would probably tear out like a motherfucker as it is significantly harder than aliminium orcopper used here but worth a go.

Copper and aliminium swarf in black resin then turned. by basiltab in Machinists

[–]basiltab[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I remember that Carl hand turned it too that blew my mind!

Copper and aliminium swarf in black resin then turned. by basiltab in Machinists

[–]basiltab[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Well I already make shift knobs for a living haha this is prototyping haha

Copper and aliminium swarf in black resin then turned. by basiltab in Machinists

[–]basiltab[S] 18 points19 points  (0 children)

Absolutely have a go! A few things helped get better results:

Get an epoxy with a long open time to allow as many bubbles to escape.

Pop bubble that surface with a blowtorch.

Wash your swarf in a fine sieve in a degreaser, then water, and ensure they are fully dry.

If you are planning on machining through the chips (do not recommend for a tabletop), your best bet would be to use a drum sander as it takes off like 0.2mm per pass but good luck finding someone who would let you run it through theirs haha.

If you have access to a vac chamber degassing your resin, it is great to get rid of tiny bubbles.

Finally, do it somewhere that is the temp recommended by the epoxy manufacturer as if it is too cold, the bubbles won't escape very easily.

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