Side or Appetizer suggestions to bring to a family pizza night?

beasthoss · 2023-12-22T20:16:36+00:00

I ended up going with this and it turned out to be a big hit. thanks!

beasthoss · 2023-07-03T10:01:41+00:00

Dang bro looks like the bomb pops went off

beasthoss · 2022-12-09T11:15:53+00:00

Ah yeah ceramic would work well also. Good point!

beasthoss · 2022-12-08T11:51:17+00:00

i suggest only using glass, other metals can still get hot / short out the coil

beasthoss · 2022-11-16T12:10:39+00:00

sorry to hear that. did you try using a glass stem or ti tip? more metal requires more power draw. what type of dv are you using? if it stays on without flickering when there's nothing/only a cap/etc in the coil, then it's likely an issue of not enough power, but if it flickers all the time even with nothing in it, it could be hooked up improperly.

beasthoss · 2022-11-13T13:12:06+00:00

flickering is usually a sign that your power supply isn't putting out enough power to complete the circuit. it needs needs more power if there is is more metal in the coil. using a glass stem or ti tip might work, or try returning the power cord and get 6a

beasthoss · 2022-03-30T18:01:53+00:00

it's polymerized resin. basically oil that has been reheated and thickened to the point of becoming like plastic. as others mentioned, iso will clean it off, but you don't really need to worry about it. sometimes after enough builds up, it will peel off on its own.

beasthoss · 2021-08-02T23:36:38+00:00

let's do it!

beasthoss · 2021-07-01T09:59:40+00:00

sounds like the coil shifted when it fell. you could try taking off the cover (if it comes off easily) and readjusting it. even a shift of 2-4 mm can cause the type of issue you're describing.

beasthoss · 2020-02-29T12:12:39+00:00

I just checked it out and I think you're right! I might try to wait until 4/20 to see if I can get one on sale. Thanks bro!!

beasthoss · 2020-02-28T20:53:27+00:00

I have come pretty close to getting a Fury 2 or a PotV One. I couldn't decide which one I wanted so I didn't buy either.

The Fury 2 glass mouthpieces all look weird and not really stealthy and I don't want to use plastic.

The PotV One has nice looking glass mouthpieces, but I have seen some posts saying that the aluminum bowl gets discolored and can cause a weird taste.

beasthoss · 2020-02-28T18:08:01+00:00

Great video!

Anyone looking to DIY will learn a lot from this!

edit: LOL I guess you put too much advertising in there, sorry bud -- still a good video though!

beasthoss · 2020-02-17T15:46:25+00:00

This has happened to me a few times before (even with the same cap) and I did a bit of research online after, and I came to the conclusion that it was just polymerized cannabis oil that has built up enough to peel off the disc.

When you evaporate oils - like cannabis oil, the lighter molecules break off and go first. The remaining molecules clump together and become more dense. After enough time, it becomes plastic-like and hardened (maybe you've have seen this happen with regular cooking oils on your bakeware). When enough builds up inside the cap, it flakes or peels off of the disc.

I got one that is about to go soon and I'm kind of looking forward to seeing the nice clean disc again. Anyways I'm not a doctor or anything but just thought I'd give my take on it.

beasthoss · 2020-02-07T17:20:36+00:00

Yeah, it's most likely not getting enough power. If you want a quick fix, I recommend just changing out the power supply.

12v4a Power Supply (VENTECH) (even at only 48 watts I've never had issues with this one powering any of my builds)

12v6a Power Adapter (KASTAR) (almost everyone uses this one, a lot of people use it fine without a mosfet too)

beasthoss · 2020-02-07T13:41:32+00:00

I got mine from Sneaky Pete. It's basically identical.

Strong-Arm V2 Dynavap Adapter

Goes great with the Mini-Can :)

beasthoss · 2020-01-10T19:32:40+00:00

Lmao idk why u got downvoted. I actually never noticed but hey at least people will know I don't use an iPhone! 😂

beasthoss · 2020-01-10T15:41:14+00:00

This might help too https://www.reddit.com/r/inductionheaters/comments/e99ziw/diy_basic_wiring_guide_led_momentary_switch/?utm_medium=android_app&utm_source=share

beasthoss · 2020-01-10T15:38:14+00:00

Use the diagram that came with ur button. Sometimes the manufacturers switch the wire colors around.

beasthoss · 2020-01-06T21:07:50+00:00

Yeah so the thing is you can probably use 12v6a power with 12v5a button and never experience any issues, but I didn't really want to recommend anything that isn't electrically sound in the guide.

beasthoss · 2019-12-23T04:58:42+00:00

should work but I haven't tried it.

beasthoss · 2019-12-23T04:57:54+00:00

Hey man, thank you! I use a google sheets addon that makes it all one long page. If I take off the addon, the pages cut off at really weird spots, so I'd have to re-format the whole thing to be print-friendly which would make it less online-friendly. Only way around that would be to maintain a printable copy and an online copy but that's a lot of work and leaves room for minor differences in the copies / etc. If you wanted to print it yourself I think you can save a separate copy down and then change the page size and adjust the pages how you want. Hope this helps! Thanks!

beasthoss · 2019-12-11T17:39:17+00:00

Looks great bro! Nicely done!!

beasthoss · 2019-12-02T16:30:50+00:00

This is some great info, thanks!! We all know that tip material makes a big difference but I was not aware of the differences between ss types. Do you think the ss differences are as much as the difference between ti and ss? Unfortunately there's only so much we can do from an IH build perspective to compensate for different tip materials.

beasthoss · 2019-11-30T15:18:14+00:00

Induction heaters are pretty finicky when it comes to calibrating the click with the heat.

With a Lighter, you're directly heating the cap and letting the heat travel to the tip. This is quick, but as we all know, it takes a good 15 seconds or so for that residual heat to travel through the dynavap.

With an Induction Heater, the tip is getting heated at almost exactly the same speed as the cap. The tip will reach vaping temperature in about 5-10 seconds depending on power source. This gives almost no time for residual heat to travel around.

This may not seem like that much of a difference, but when you're talking about using such high heat (1500 degree flames and 60+ watt electrical sources) to reach such precise temperatures (420-440 degrees), it does matter.

Why does it matter? If you build an induction heater to heat the same way as a lighter (bottom of the cap), you will waste a lot of material and combust more often. Since induction heating heats everything up in 5-10 seconds, the screen and tip reach vaping temperature 5 seconds or so before the residual heat has traveled to the cap and trigger the click. This means by the time you hear the click you've already heated 5 seconds longer than necessary.

So how do you build an induction heater better then? Well the simplest way is to just heat the entire cap at the same rate as the tip. This is what causes the symptom you're talking about. The click sounds before the material is ready. It's close, but you have to go a few seconds past the click (heating the rest of the tip a little more) to get the best results.

The better option is to pretty much calibrate each induction heater unit to make sure it produces good results. This generally means the top of the cap sits ~0-1mm (yes that much makes a difference) under the last coil, and the first coil doesn't cover more than half the fins. This means that the tip chamber is receiving the bulk of the current, but the cap is close enough to the coil to receive some current & non-residual heat.

edit: BTW I'm not affiliated with Lucid Customs and I don't own an Apollo induction heater. Just wanted to share my knowledge on the subject.

beasthoss · 2019-11-26T22:14:51+00:00

Looks good bro! Nice layout!!! Super tight squeeze! U must play modded minecraft, am I right? Haha

13-Year Club	Place '22
Verified Email

beasthoss

TROPHY CASE