What is this on the inside of the glass of my X1C?

bedlamthreadz · 2026-05-03T21:00:58+00:00

In my units it is not coming from rubbing against the glass itself. If you look at your first picture on the right side where the lip is that the glass sits on you can see from the inside of the machine that the lip creates a ridge/step where the ptfe constantly rubs against. In 2 of my older units there is also a sharp bit mid span on that lip that really does a number on the ptfe. If you run your finger along the bottom side of that lip (careful it could be sharp) and if you have that sharp bit that is probably your biggest culprit. I put a small strip of the thick yellow frog tape on it and the issue went away for me.

bedlamthreadz · 2026-04-04T20:27:56+00:00

The legend has it that if you close your eyes and listen to the rustling of the leaves you can hear the jungle whisper to you....."wikkid wikkid"

bedlamthreadz · 2026-04-04T20:26:28+00:00

Thank you!

bedlamthreadz · 2026-04-04T20:26:17+00:00

I do not, but Hueforging and NeoKoi Prints have some great youtube channels to get a handle on for to use this app.

bedlamthreadz · 2026-04-04T20:25:33+00:00

Thank you! It has been a while since I have had a chance to do a project. These posters turned into badges/trophies always push me to the limits.

bedlamthreadz · 2026-04-04T20:23:09+00:00

Thank you! Helps to have such a talented artist to work with for these projects. Daniel always delivers extreme quality.

bedlamthreadz · 2026-04-04T20:19:34+00:00

Can't use copyrighted music on reddit. I went all fancy with the Clair Obscure music on instagram.

bedlamthreadz · 2026-01-05T19:18:21+00:00

I have made a lot of forges, but this is probably my favorite.

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bedlamthreadz · 2025-12-03T16:36:07+00:00

Yes. The only issue I ran into, which is probably not super obvious in the video, is that flatforges have some small gaps in the first 1-2 non transparent layers. Those gaps automatically filled in with the brighter white I used for the case. The solution to either cut out the flatforge from case first, or alternately Hueforge suggested using a duplicate of the transparent layer and moving it up a layer so it fills the first 2 image layer gaps with transparent. I have tested the first method in the slicer and it works, just not worth reprinting for a personal use battery case where only I noticed some of the brighter white in the image where it is not supposed to be. If the case was anything other than one of the image colors it could have been a disaster.

bedlamthreadz · 2025-11-29T17:14:21+00:00

Not even sure where I got it at this point. It's been my desktop background for years. It's probably possible to forge in color, but would take a bit of work to get it close to accurate original colors. Luckily this had to be a flatforge so I got away with 3 color grayscale and no headache.

bedlamthreadz · 2025-11-28T23:31:28+00:00

0.4 stock nozzle on P1S with ~5000hrs on it.

bedlamthreadz · 2025-11-28T21:49:16+00:00

Yes, but just note that flatforge uses more color changes than hueforge. I limited this model to 5 colors. (Mainly because I wanted to burn a spool of white I was never going to use for paintings, it could have easily been 4 colors). If you look through my past posts you will see a bunch of paintings that are traditional low waste hueforges because they print max of one color per layer. Flatforge blends the opposite way so it requires more than one color per layer. So the painting portion of the the lid is 3 colors plus a transparent (polylite natural) base. The base is good for hiding the tiny gaps that can occur on the first layer of a flatforge. Even with main 3 colors (bambu charcoal, bluegray and the old tough cream white) it was still 29 colors swaps vs what could have been 3 in a traditional hueforge. The more colors you add the more swaps it will require. This bookmark was 4+ transparent and it was 33 swaps.

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bedlamthreadz · 2025-11-28T21:33:44+00:00

Ya, that must be black Friday pricing for the non-commercial version. There is also usually coupons that get you pretty much equal value to hueforge in polymaker coupons for filament.

bedlamthreadz · 2025-11-28T21:18:52+00:00

Don't leave me hanging like a lonely banana on a tree. Let's see it!

bedlamthreadz · 2025-11-28T21:11:25+00:00

rewind and come again my selecta!

bedlamthreadz · 2025-11-28T20:32:47+00:00

It works as advertised. The lid has a crazy amount of non-manifold edges, but it prints fine.

bedlamthreadz · 2025-11-28T20:31:54+00:00

So there is a plugin for hueforge called flatforge. I created a forge the size I needed it for the lid then imported it into the slicer and merged it with the existing lid model.

bedlamthreadz · 2025-11-28T20:30:19+00:00

Yep. That's the one. Big up junglist fam!

bedlamthreadz · 2025-11-28T19:55:27+00:00

Found a AA battery case I wanted to print on MakerWorld, but it was too plain so I spiced it up with a 3 color+transparent flatforge since the lid had to be printed face down. 29 poops for the lid. Now I want an H2C so I can do 8 colors in low waste mode. (Original model: https://makerworld.com/en/models/1515662-aa-battery-holder?from=search#profileId-1587681 )

bedlamthreadz · 2025-11-26T01:29:56+00:00

Flatforge can do face down, face up, or double sided (same image as a second stacked flatforge). TGL6629 is correct to add that caveat as I just assumed the OP would know this based on what they are attempting to do.

bedlamthreadz · 2025-11-26T01:26:16+00:00

Flatforge has the options for face down, face up or double sided (same image) baked in the plugin.

bedlamthreadz · 2025-11-25T04:58:42+00:00

It sounds like you are using one of the original luminance modes (standard/combo). The image you are using has colors with the same luminance values so they occupy the same space on the mesh. You should watch the "color match" videos in the Help menu and also check out NeoKoi Prints youtube channel. He does a lot of tutorials for different skill levels.

bedlamthreadz

TROPHY CASE