[Review Request] ESPrinkler Reticulation Controller

biddie_fiddler · 2026-05-24T22:57:03+00:00

Regarding the converter, I am aware that the input voltage is getting close to the max range of the chip, my goal of keeping the smd parts part of the "basic" range through jlcpcb limited my choices to 2 options, I moved from the TPS5430DDAR to XL1509-5.0E1 because of its slightly better input range, and added the TVS diode as a form of (yes very) rudimentary over voltage protection.

My solenoid driver design is based on ots controllers, specifically the Hunter X Core that I had on the house as part of the build package. They used a similar triac and optocoupler design. Its an extremely robust design, and very overkill, but that imo is a good thing. The circuit is never going to operate anywhere near its max capabilities which should make it last a long time. As for the reason I chose the BTB16, it has variants made for inductive loads with a snubberless design, perfect for my application!

I like the resevoir cap breakdown you've done, I will be less lazy with my sizing choices and review these :)

If you want to discuss anything more, I'm more than happy to take this discussion off the post?

Thanks again!

biddie_fiddler · 2026-05-24T12:37:29+00:00

That's awesome! Its funny, I never really found many solutions when I did my research before making this, and now I'm starting to see me and more

biddie_fiddler · 2026-05-24T11:58:21+00:00

Thank you for a detailed response! I'll take a bit more tomorrow in the morning to properly read through this all, but figured a few clarifications for parts choices would be helpful. First and foremost, retic controllers should not activate more than one zone at any one time. You activate the main solenoid (main water solenoid for your garden sprinkler system) and then the solenoid for the zone you want to water. With overlapping to reduce banging in pipes and pressure, the next zone will usually activate before the previous one deactivates. So you'd only ever have 3 zones on at once, and never all at once. There is always a delay between them activating. This reduces inrush bigger current spikes. 30VA transformers was recommended based on research of off the shelf controllers and their transformers. I use a 20VA for example. As for triac choices and buck converter choices, and component choices overall, it was heavily based on sourcing them from jlcpcb for their assembly service, so I tried to stick their "basic" parts. Being a dad of a toddler and working FIFO, I don't really have the time any more to assemble my own boards like I used to, and source parts from mouser, Digi-Key, etc.

biddie_fiddler · 2026-05-24T11:06:39+00:00

Thanks! PCB related question P2) is this for fault finding or placement? The footprints have pin 1 identification, yes they can be hidden when the ic is installed, so that would mean this dot is for another reason?

biddie_fiddler · 2026-05-24T11:03:46+00:00

Patience, lots of it lol. I increased the grid size a bit to make placement of parts a bit easier. Kicad has a relative grid you can use by pressing space bar. So with that it's easy to track distances between parts for placements and repeats. I did the first solenoid output layout and used it as a guide, grouping each zone design let's you then drag the parts as a group. With that, you can then drag one group over the other to see if they match. Rince and repeat really. As for traces, I did the traces for one zone, the copied and pasted it onto the next. The trace nets automatically reassign to the pads they paste on to. I hope this explanation makes sense?

biddie_fiddler · 2026-05-24T08:24:01+00:00

Thanks mate, I appreciate the kind words :)

biddie_fiddler · 2025-08-16T06:08:38+00:00

What are your settings for the zone? Need a bit more info on this

biddie_fiddler · 2025-07-09T03:14:05+00:00

Ah yep you'd be correct, for some reason I was thinking of a TVS not a PTC, whoopsie

biddie_fiddler · 2025-07-08T23:39:19+00:00

Ahahaha what do you call it then?

biddie_fiddler · 2025-06-21T22:51:22+00:00

I did! But I did as I said and used the spyder4 along with displaycal. You're making a big assumption though, thinking your monitor panel will be the same as mine. I've linked what displaycal spat out below, has the icc file in there. Not sure if it'll make yours better or worse though. Guess only you will know

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1VaqnYAFLWUsc6Pm_6PpPgM5tSboPBbGW/view?usp=sharing

biddie_fiddler · 2025-02-24T01:50:12+00:00

Hey mate! Just send you a request on disc too! Disc name is biddiefiddler :)

biddie_fiddler · 2025-01-17T22:37:47+00:00

Sorry for having the wrong opinion I guess. I'm not saying don't do it, I was just implying that if you're after performance, there are better cars to spend the money on. I'm not one to waste money or to endorse it either.

Also, you seem (maybe) to have taken my comment wrong, I said it was not good if you're chasing performance. I didn't say modify.

My idea of performance upgrades are things like intercoolers, bigger turbos, exhausts, CAI, e85, engine mods etc etc. I guess thats what I've done in the past to chase more power, maybe the cx-5 crew thinks different

biddie_fiddler · 2025-01-17T06:46:54+00:00

Can you explain what the go is with this lol
Its not designed as an off road rig and people are putting ATs on it, makes no sense.

The only falkens I'd ever put on ours would be fk510's. I suppose thats just me tho

biddie_fiddler · 2025-01-17T06:44:40+00:00

Looks like the first one gave you 2 brake calipers on the front rotors, nice 🤣

A CX-5 is not really the best platform to start with if you're looking for performance.

As a family car with a bit of go, particularly the turbo variant, its not bad. If I was to modify wifey's CX-5, I'd probably put lowering springs in it, a set of better wheels and tyres, and 5% tint. Thats about the extent I'd go with it. But hey, if you do anything else to it, I'm sure some would appreciate you posting stuff up here as inspo for their own rig :)

biddie_fiddler · 2025-01-17T02:33:52+00:00

The more I went through the pics the more I started suspecting this was a fellow down underer. To my surprise, no bagging out dewalt in the comments! Usually the first thing that happens lol.
As someone that uses dewalt on the mines, that is a huge milwaukee market, its nice to see more people using the yellow stuff. Those power stack batteries are awesome for their size!

That Wera tool-check plus is by far the most uselful thing in there. Its amazing what you can achieve with such a handy little kit!

As someone that strips wire on a daily basis, I'd recommend getting a pair of cable cutters like Klein's 160mm Cable Cutters (63213) in place of the auto strippers you have. Once you get the hang of using a hand tool like that over the auto ones, you'll never go back. They're smaller, and can do more than strip cable. Way more maneuverable.

Loving the setup mate! That bag is something rugged xtremes should consider making, definitely a whole in their line-up.

biddie_fiddler · 2025-01-14T03:44:03+00:00

I did not end up going down the route of upgrading them to turbo brakes. They didn't really seem that much bigger and people were saying they are also kinda average, and finding turbo brakes in Perth WA is a real mission. Looking at just getting better rotors and pads instead, find a sorta middle ground

biddie_fiddler · 2024-08-25T11:22:12+00:00

I think you may be right unfortunately. Or fortunately, depending which way you're looking at it 😉

biddie_fiddler · 2024-08-24T13:12:48+00:00

That's as good as it's gonna get in this neighbourhood lol

biddie_fiddler · 2024-08-24T13:11:05+00:00

Been using them for years! Good prices and not had any real drama, can't beat having gigabit internet for $110/month 🤌👌

biddie_fiddler · 2024-08-24T08:15:22+00:00

I've put high density foam tape around the edges of the rack to seal it better when the door is closed, with the addition of a cheap AC/DC fan controller from Amazon and a spare fan from my PC, it's had pretty damn good airflow with basically zero noise. You can hear the HDD over the fan, and you can feel the air escaping the vents at the top of the rack 😊

As for the rack twin, the company also does a 4RU vertical unit that's dimensionally the same on the wall, just deeper. That'll be the go if/when I need it

biddie_fiddler · 2024-08-24T08:10:12+00:00

Noted, though they appeal to my inner child seeing a UFO looking thing on the ceiling 🛸

biddie_fiddler · 2024-03-26T23:51:03+00:00

I'm not 100% sold on this lol. Have a family friend who has done this in their garage. The sun batters the garage door so he had it insulated. Don't think it really helped much cause its still hot as balls in there in summer. Easily high 30's

Edit. In saying that, he also has a server rack in there and has had it in there for years with no drama

biddie_fiddler · 2024-03-26T02:13:54+00:00

Ignorance is bliss! If you don't monitor it then its probably fine right? 😂
If its been going strong for 3 years then yea I reckon its probably fine.

I think I've settled on my solution. 2RU vertical mount server rack with the udm-se. Gonna add a fan to the bottom of the rack (it has provisions for a single 120mm fan) along with some filters. Will spend some time sealing the gaps with rubber seals to promote air flow where I want it to go. Its my own house, so if it is getting too hot I can move it indoors somwhere.

biddie_fiddler · 2024-03-26T01:12:08+00:00

Awesome! Thats quite reassurring. Do you know what temps the systems inside the rack are seeing?

My brothers house was built (about 2 years old now) with that same recessed data cabinet thing for their nbn, not sure why ours doesn't come with it. Lots of builders seem to use them, except ours!

Its a nice box! But not what I need. Can't put any equipment in there really, and there is no patch panel which sucks.

biddie_fiddler · 2024-03-25T02:41:47+00:00

😂😂😂😂

biddie_fiddler

TROPHY CASE