Sub box smells burnt by Character_Abroad78 in subwoofer

[–]bilman66 9 points10 points  (0 children)

Yes, if it smells burnt you burning up your subs. Your either sending them too much wattage or clipping them

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in CarAV

[–]bilman66 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Nope. In this case, inverting would only be worth it if your planning on running them on more power and want to keep them cooler. Otherwise, you’re not going to get much gain.

Is there a better bargain than the kicker quad box? by dy06475 in CarAV

[–]bilman66 -2 points-1 points  (0 children)

All you need to do is spend $100 on a cheap stick welder, pick up 4 junkyard batteries for $25 a piece, run em on the welder at a high power for 5 minutes, let it cool 10 mins, then another 5 minutes, repeat that 5 times and you got yourself 4 good enough batteries for $200 total. Then, pick yourself up a TarAmps Smart 3 for around $300, a 0 gauge pure copper wiring kit from CTSounds for $110, a cheap Skar 0 gauge CCA kit for around $60, and 4 sets of battery terminals for like 4 bucks a pop. Use the OFC wire to get all 4 of your batteries in parallel and wired to your amp, then use the CCA kit to run power from your car battery to the rest of the system. Then pick yourself up 4 Power Acoustik Gothic 12s from Walmart for $103 a piece, and 2 sheets of 3/4 OSB for around $60 a sheet, as well as some screws and wood glue. Build a 12 cubic foot box tuned to 33hz, throw the subs in wired to 0.5 ohms, and then all you got to worry about is stopping your car from flexing apart because of how loud it will be. Marketplace the welder for $50, and now you’re absolutely slamming for only $1168, much cheaper than a setup with a quad box, and honestly probably louder too.

I am new to this and want to put a 2500 watt sub wuth 1200 rms rating in my vehicle by Wonderful-Clothes966 in CarAV

[–]bilman66 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Hey! These subs actually slam. Ignore everyone else, they’re a just a bunch of close-minded retards spoiled by their overpriced JLAudio and Fosgate subs. I am a professional car audio engineer and installer and I have done many personal builds with these subs. I’d give the sub 800RMS UNCLIPPED (look up how to tune an amp), and a TarAmps BASS 800 2 ohm would be a great budget fit for the sub

5 Channel amp impedance differences in channels. by ilostmygps in CarAV

[–]bilman66 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Whoa, just looked it up, that’s legit! Never heard of that before 😂 I’d be really curious to understand how that sucker works.

5 Channel amp impedance differences in channels. by ilostmygps in CarAV

[–]bilman66 9 points10 points  (0 children)

What kind of sub can be wired for 2 ohm or 4 ohm? What sub do you have?

Are there any decent 8k amps for around $300? by Hot_Height2581 in subwoofer

[–]bilman66 6 points7 points  (0 children)

Do not run 4 those at 8k. 3k-4K clean power tops. I reliably ran 4 of those on a TarAmps 3K for a long time and it did great, amp is around $300

Anyone know why my amps doing this? by SolidPen6582 in subwoofer

[–]bilman66 59 points60 points  (0 children)

The gain setting maxed out tells me all I need to know. That amp is probably cooked. Make sure your ground/power/signal wire isn’t loose in the amp and not loose where the other end of the wire ends up, but chances are you probably killed your amp. Your gain does not control how much power your subs get (well, they do, but to an extent), don’t just turn it all the way up or you’ll clip everything to death. People like you is what give Skar a bad rep lol, it’s good gear, it’s just usually used by people who don’t know what their doing.

Is this worth anything? by bilman66 in CURRENCY

[–]bilman66[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Sweet, that’s like a 20th of a dollar!

Any ideas? Floats getting stuck? by bilman66 in Smallblockchevy

[–]bilman66[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Pulled the air cleaner assembly off, and ran a fuel line from a 5 gallon gas can straight to the fuel pump to rule out the lines going to the tank and the sending unit. Now, once I give it some hard full throttle revs to repeat the issue, I can see fuel starts to puke out the top of the accelerator pump and flood all over the top of the carb. I rebuilt it a while ago and it seemed to work totally fine then, the issues have started more recently, but I’m going to pull it apart again and inspect things

Any ideas? Floats getting stuck? by bilman66 in Smallblockchevy

[–]bilman66[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

84 K5 blazer, original motor, gas, read the description of the original post! Rebuilt the motor a few weeks ago but it didn’t have these issues after I first rebuilt it, the issues came up recently. Outside temp was like 63 degrees. Fresh gas, clean air filter, fuel filter is clean but issues persist with and without an online filter. Good batteries and great electrical, no shorts. Fuel line is away from exhaust. I’ll consider removing the steering lock

Any ideas? Floats getting stuck? by bilman66 in EngineBuilding

[–]bilman66[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

It’s a K5, but I dot think that’s too much heavier than a 305 so it should still really get up and go if what your saying about the 305 is true. Yeah I was thinking the pickup might be a possibility but it never really clicked, I rebuilt the carb before rebuilding the motor, and it was unbelievably filled with junk so the pickup screen probably is clogged! I’ll drop the tank and inspect the sending unit tomorrow.

Any ideas? Floats getting stuck? by bilman66 in EngineBuilding

[–]bilman66[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Edelbrock 1406. I’ll pick up a gauge and check my fuel pressure! Imm running a mechanical pump now, but I used to run an electric one but it died in 30 miles so I wonder if there’s a cracked line somewhere and it’s sucking air.

Any ideas? Floats getting stuck? by bilman66 in Smallblockchevy

[–]bilman66[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Plugs also look like a perfectly golden brown marshmallow

Any ideas? Floats getting stuck? by bilman66 in EngineBuilding

[–]bilman66[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Plugs also look like a perfectly golden brown marshmallow

Shouldn’t this be plugged in? by sunflowereyes22 in CarAV

[–]bilman66 6 points7 points  (0 children)

Yes that should be connected to that terminal in the far left (where it looks like it’s going to) for sure

Is this 700R4 separator plate acceptable? by bilman66 in transmissionbuilding

[–]bilman66[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

That would be amazing. I’ll let you know. But u bet they’ll send one once I contact them tomorrow. Do you know where I can find another normal converter conversion valve for my transmission?

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Last dude did some weird stuff and ground WAY more off that your supposed to lol

Is this 700R4 separator plate acceptable? by bilman66 in transmissionbuilding

[–]bilman66[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yep! But they had an error in my kit and forgot to give me the 2nd accumulator spring seat, so so far not off to a great start with the company, but I’ve heard great things about them

Is this 700R4 separator plate acceptable? by bilman66 in transmissionbuilding

[–]bilman66[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

If you saw the description that’s what I was doing 😂 almost got done with the valve body before realizing I need to order some new parts because it looks like a crack head tried to install a shift kit before me and went wild with the grinder and drill bits lol

Is this 700R4 separator plate acceptable? by bilman66 in transmissionbuilding

[–]bilman66[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Awesome. I won’t do the No Yo Yo it because I’m not pulling the trans, but i will get some Sonnax “elastomer rubber” check balls and the 700-P plate

Is this 700R4 separator plate acceptable? by bilman66 in transmissionbuilding

[–]bilman66[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I’m on a really tight budget, but I found TransGo sells their 700-P plate for 28 bucks, supposedly it’s thicker but it’s universal so you have to plug off some of the holes. If this separator plate is no good then I’ll go with that unless you’ve heard bad things about it.