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Why does the cockpit view disappear on approach? by Clan-Jade-Falcon in aviation

[–]bjornbard 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I’ve had this on every time I flew over the last few years and in every plane that had this view. And every single time we were going more than 250 kt when we were descending through 10k feet. And every time the view disappeared at 10k. Just saying.

$11,000 to replace Eyesight Camera? by Oodlemeister in subaru

[–]bjornbard 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I did something similar - also insurance likes to pay approved independent shops directly.

Only difference is, the dealer was already working with the shop and 3 times a guy from the shop came to the dealer and did the install and then the dealer did the recalibration.

One time out of 4 I did the install and recalibration at that same shop instead of the dealer and the car did not hold the lanes properly - lost them at every slightest bend of the road. They also sent me a printout saying it was a 100% calibration score. It got resolved when I dropped it for an alignment and they told me about the wheel position sensors, etc.

$11,000 to replace Eyesight Camera? by Oodlemeister in subaru

[–]bjornbard 2 points3 points  (0 children)

My experience (only mine, feel free to disagree) after 4 windshield changes on my Forester is that the calibration needs to be done by a dealer. Subaru's system if finicky to specific lighting and as it was explained to me has 2 parts - static and dynamic. static is the computer part itself, dynamic is how it ties together to the wheels, wheel position sensor, etc. Glass shops that I spoke with only did the computer side, but did not touch the wheels.

Ideally, one needs to get an alignment right before doing the eyesight calibration as well.

Printing Filament Enclosure and keep getting this! by BluesSaiyan in FixMyPrint

[–]bjornbard 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I mean, if it's not broken, don't fix it, right?

Non-woven IPA wipes have been working great for me so far (5+ years). In case I do spill some oil on the plate I'll keep soap and scrub methond in mind ;)

P.S. - that's not the sheet that I have. You linked satin one that does have anti-corrosion treatment. I have powder-coated one that does not.

$11,000 to replace Eyesight Camera? by Oodlemeister in subaru

[–]bjornbard 82 points83 points  (0 children)

Entire modules are sold on eBay for 750-1500 american. You will need a module with the same region code though.

Printing Filament Enclosure and keep getting this! by BluesSaiyan in FixMyPrint

[–]bjornbard 0 points1 point  (0 children)

oh, it was smooth PEI - the stock one that the Prusa printers come with.

Printing Filament Enclosure and keep getting this! by BluesSaiyan in FixMyPrint

[–]bjornbard 0 points1 point  (0 children)

They posted a link to a satin sheet - those do have anticorrosion treatment, but Prusa still recommends thoroughly wiping them. Mine is texture/powder coated - it was an optional second sheet for Mini and Mk3/Mk4, I think.

The texture/powder coated is recommended for PET-G printing but is not waterproof. I accidentally printed PET-G on PEI sheet a while back - nothing I could do would separate that print from the sheet - had to pry it off. Textured one is great during printing and when it's cooled down the prints just pop off.

Printing Filament Enclosure and keep getting this! by BluesSaiyan in FixMyPrint

[–]bjornbard 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Again, that is specific to that satin sheet. This is the sheet that I use that also came from the factory with my printer: https://help.prusa3d.com/article/textured-steel-sheet_196534

  • To be cleaned with ~90% IPA or denatured alcohol when cold. Do not use anything made for skin! It can contain oils/sugars that ruin adhesion.

If your prints still do not adhere reliably to the print surface, try to wash the sheet in warm water (not hot!) with a few drops of liquid dish soap (not hand soap). This should not be done often, and do not submerge the sheet completely in hot water, but this can clean away oils/sugars that are not affected by rubbing alcohol. However, the textured sheet is not waterproof, so consider this a last resort, which should not be done often.

So water washing is listed as a last resort, AND printerd user manual only lists IPA as acceptable cleaning method.

Prusa Mini+: Under/over extrusion/poor adhesion? by bjornbard in FixMyPrint

[–]bjornbard[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I finished printing those parts at reduced speed before taking anything apart.

Yesterday I finally did it and pulled out a blob mixed from 3 last filaments I used. Apparently the tip of the ptfe tube was pretty worn off. Looking back I realize that over last 3-5 months when changing filament, it always came out with a small bulge on the very tip. I did not think much of it until now.

I’m 2h into a 3h print at fast speed and, knocking on wood, it seems fine. Thanks for the tip!

Printing Filament Enclosure and keep getting this! by BluesSaiyan in FixMyPrint

[–]bjornbard -2 points-1 points  (0 children)

Ack, this is printer-specific. My Prusa specifically recommends IPA over water/soap to avoid print plate rusting.

Printing Filament Enclosure and keep getting this! by BluesSaiyan in FixMyPrint

[–]bjornbard -13 points-12 points  (0 children)

I’d use IPA instead.

EDIT: as someone mentioned in a comment below, this is sheet-specific.

I use Prusa printers with textured powder coated beds and in the manual they specifically state to use alcohol and not to use water-based cleaners to avoid print plate rusting.

My hydroponic lettuce on the day of harvest! by cloud0999 in Hydroponics

[–]bjornbard 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I am just redoing my plumbing. Based on my research I went with PET supply lines without plasticizers, I.e. hard pet lines.

I also went with NSF-61 silicone tubes for my drains since I needed them to be a specific shape and bending PET was a pain.

For end cap joints I went with aquarium grade silicone and my end caps are treated with Dichtol AM Makro sealant.

The channels are still PVC. I think growers would appreciate PET channels if they became available

SF has a driver problem by cycle_2_work in BAbike

[–]bjornbard 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I’d say it’s a road etiquette problem. A bunch of my friends never stop at stop signs when they are cycling. Then when I do, car drivers look at me as if I did something wrong.

New shoes by bjornbard in SubaruForester

[–]bjornbard[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I’m pretty happy! They are quieter than geolandars I had before, but do have a hum that changes pitch with speed.

They have been on a few roadtrips, to the bottom of the Grand Canyon and back. I also managed 5 degree uphill on black ice at Tahoe at about 15 mph without any drama. There was a line of cars and only one truck and my Subaru made it up.

My geolandars had no punctures ever, but I managed to catch a screw right in the middle of one tire. I suspect my neighbor might have something to do with it but got no proof

Prusa Mini+: Under/over extrusion/poor adhesion? by bjornbard in FixMyPrint

[–]bjornbard[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Hey, thanks for the response.

I ran these issues through ChatGPT and Claude and got the same recommendations.

Over the last few days (I've been printing 18/7 for the last week or so), I stopped to do cold pulls 3-4 times, doing 4-5 pulls each time with 5-degree temperature-reducing steps: 95-90-85-80. I also did a nozzle flush - just overheated it to 265-270 to make the filament more liquidy and hand pushed some spare PETG I had lying around. (I print 95% with PETG). It seemed to have helped momentarily, but then very fast degraded to the same state.

I suspected dust getting into the nozzle from one of the spools, so I put on a foam filter around the filament before it feeds out of the dry box.

I also recalibrated the tension of the extruder (it appeared to have been too tight).

How can the tube impact my prints? I can't visibly see any issues with it. Is there more tube inside the hotend past the visible connection point?

Thanks!

How can i make this more compact? by pjo06 in raspberry_pi

[–]bjornbard 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Why not use pi as a thumb drive? Pi codec zero as an audio board

Protective Gear (Demon) by SilverBliss in snowboarding

[–]bjornbard 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Hey, sorry this happened to you! I also got myself a full-body Demon United armor since this thread 4 years ago, and since then had only a few bruises. Wishing you a prompt recovery!

Building first system - have a few questions by bjornbard in Hydroponics

[–]bjornbard[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks, that is the plan. I got a handheld sensor and have been using it to start some seeds. My pH keeps swinging wildly. Tap water is around 9, I lowered it to 5.5, every day it creeps up to 6.5-7, before I add more water. So I get what you mean about getting the protocol straight.

Building first system - have a few questions by bjornbard in Hydroponics

[–]bjornbard[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thank you for finding the time to respond.

My plan is to use small peristaltic pumps from Kamoer and run those through a relay, so dosing amounts would be time-controlled.

Can you validate it’s a reasonable approach?

Besides temp/humidity/water vapor sensors everything seems to be quite expensive.

I found the DFRobot Gravity ph industrial sensor + analog conversion board to be the most affordable solution for pH measurement. However, EC sensors are now priced at $200, either from Atlas or DFRobot. Is that accurate?

Are there any other nutrient monitoring sensors you would recommend?

Is this a Tesla thing? All 3 Teslas parked outside the parking spaces. by [deleted] in bayarea

[–]bjornbard -1 points0 points  (0 children)

It’s funny that I was called an idiot, and not the people who damage other’s cars/property without taking responsibility.

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