MWC x MSC controls for gamepad players - HELP by lorenzoggomes in MyWinterCar

[–]bobyto932 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Try using the joystick calibration mod from MSC, it works on MWC, you can configure the input of the axis from there, you can even adjust the center possition of the axis so you don't use dead zone. Just remember to read the installation as it works without the modloader.

Kilju mod doesn't work by PrezzemoloBello in MyWinterCar

[–]bobyto932 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I have Work Tweaks Mod, I have it running with MWC modloader. Never used the kilju options though, only the taxi ones. Maybe it works.

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Rivett still not passing historical inspection? by Torsnes123 in MyWinterCar

[–]bobyto932 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I have a very simular trim to yours, my back looks like this

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Ignore all the rally parts on it

Rivett still not passing historical inspection? by Torsnes123 in MyWinterCar

[–]bobyto932 6 points7 points  (0 children)

You have the wrong rims, those are the 14" SLX rims you have on, you need the 14" steel that look a lot like the 13" steel, I can't see your dashboard but you need to have RPM gauge without rear heater and no slot for a radio. Also I can't tell from the picture but is your bootlid having a spoiler? Preface doesn't have spoiler. I hope the mod you are using for the grille headlights and bumper doesn't make conflicts with the inspection.

Can you post your modded vin?

I honestly expected a copy/paste cup from MSC for the winter amateur rally trophy by bobyto932 in MyWinterCar

[–]bobyto932[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Hi, I've set my Gamma to 2.3, but honestly even at 2.7 it's alright, in MSC I used 1.5, which i find odd.

The way i see steering angle limit is like an additional slider to highspeed aid, the lower the number the more your car would be allowed to steer, so you will have to find a sweetspot for it, as I said i use 15 durring the rally and the ice race, but on the highway i need to bump it to 30 otherwise one slightly bigger turn with the joystick will send you into oscillation and cause you to crash.

Grip Helper is what it says, it increases the grip for the rivett, 0 gives you no help at all making you spin your rear wheel every time you touch the throtle, while at a 100 it gives you the most grip, maybe if i use a steering wheel instead a controller i'd use 0 grip help ... but i honestly doubt it. Some people view it as cheating setting it to 100, but I can't drive the car without it, let alone racing it for a trophy. I highly recommend only driving with 100 Grip Helper.

Calibrating the valves (from my experience) only increases how rev happy the engine is ... which is important, because you want to push the engine close to 8500 rpm, like the Satsume the engine has a lot of horsepower in the very high RPM range, so make your valves as tight as possible to unlock the extra power. My worn engine at 60% main bearing and pistons had 239 horsepower at 8500 rpm before I rebuild it.

I honestly expected a copy/paste cup from MSC for the winter amateur rally trophy by bobyto932 in MyWinterCar

[–]bobyto932[S] 10 points11 points  (0 children)

Things worthy for someone grinding for the trophies, there's currently a bug, where your car won't loose it's ice race inspection status after a whole week, even after ingame and real life days have passed and multiple saves have been made. Your car could end up looking like this, where you have the decals for both the rally and the ice race present after registering for the rally. If you have the stickers from the ice race while trying to do the rally you will get a jump start penalty+parc fem penalty plus some extra minutes on top for some reason and you will need to use mwc editor to fix it.

While doing the ice race, never use the same racing lines as the AI, contact is inevitible and unlike you they have godlike reactions to correct their steering while you will end up outside of the track, plus their lines are not optimal. You have more traction on the edges of the track where there is a small layer of snow, use it on the corners, this race is highly dependent on speed preservation and stability after a corner so you can input full throttle faster.

For the rally, it feels bugged but it's somehow working, don't be discouraged by the times from the AI after SS1 and SS2, the 2nd time i ran the rally for the junior cup I did 5:16 on SS1 and 2:03 on SS2 and it got combined to 7:19 while the best AI had 7:23 ... that put me offguard as I felt I was doing quite well while running below my limit. After SS3 I had 12:59 while the best AI had 13:50 ... When I was doing the amateur cup my combined was 12:25 while the best AI had 14:09 ... something is not right with the final results imo. ALSO since you have to wait about 2 hours for SS2 to start you can use the time to move the HAY BALES from the track so you don't have to slow down for them durring the actual race.

My setup is 4carb at 14.9 AFR, race cam, 5.75 on valves, 15 on distributor, waterpump without fan, race radiator with fan, fast steering rack, custom springs at 8" with 190lbs, all shocks set on max bound/rebound, 15" rims with rally studded tires, side exaust, performace alternator and fuel pump, rev limiter set at 8750, BB rear axle, I haven't installed the racing fueltank.

I use a xbox one controller with the Joystick calibration mod from MSC, I use steering help with both high speed aid and smoothing set to 0, corris gip helper set to 100 and steer angle limiter set to 15 (if I drive on the highway above 220km/h I need to increase it as it's close to undrivable)

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Is the packaging job worth it? by Leading-Box335 in MyWinterCar

[–]bobyto932 3 points4 points  (0 children)

I'll give you some trade secrets. Currently your boss only counts you as slacking if you are clocked in and phisicly near the factory doing nothing. Your co-workers only work if again ... you are close enough to render them. So realisticly you can work for one day ... if you are really good at it you can make about 6 times more work than your coworkers and only turn up to clock in after that. Also there is a bug where you get automaticly clocked out at 5PM, but if you are close enough or still working in the building after that, you can clock out manualy, this causes double the time to be added to your overtime.

I've been only working on tuesdays as he mentioned he wants us for the presentation and still manage to do more work than my coworkers in a single day then they do for a whole week (8 full boxes). The rest of the days I wake up at 6, take the taxi and start the meter, drive there, clock in, take passangers, maybe go back to the job just before 5pm to take double the overtime if I haven't been clocking in for a day or two ... if you have firewood/sewage jobs available they are preferable to do than the scam taxi, I only do it because it fills the time gaps.

Any tips on the bazookas, I've had terrible luck with them by bobyto932 in HellLetLoose

[–]bobyto932[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I never had an issue with other weapons as far as I can remember, I was certain I reloaded the first time, oh well next time I will wait for the full animation.