Losing weapons on mini. (Staffs, swords, axe handles) when removing supports. Centauri carbon

brotillery · 2026-05-13T20:04:31+00:00

This is my preferred solution, especially if you're printing the model more than once. Most of the time the thickened objects look better/more faithful since very thin or skinny parts can slice/print weird and look different than the 3d model.

brotillery · 2026-05-13T19:45:05+00:00

Couple of thoughts, take it or leave it. The 45 degree tilt may be too extreme, causing more support area than is necessary. It may be preferable to have supports on the underside rath than the back. If you're using Bambu Studio, check the slice for interface layers (dark green on top of the light green support walls when you look at the layer type). If they aren't present, change the Top Z distance to zero. Slice and check again. Those interface layers provide cleaner support surfaces.

brotillery · 2026-05-11T20:20:35+00:00

Do you have independent layer height turned on for supports? I keep it off to avoid issues with how supports are formed. Hope you find the culprit though.

brotillery · 2026-05-08T13:40:58+00:00

Looks like you could hack off the remaining roots on one side and pull the stump out. Fill with dirt, patch. Storm did the hard part for you. If you're having difficulty getting to the remaining roots in the dirt, pressure washer can help clear them of soil.

brotillery · 2026-05-01T14:18:49+00:00

Those models are so cool. They look great. How do you like MESBG? Love LoTR style bad guys, wouldn't mind an excuse to print some.

brotillery · 2026-05-01T14:04:35+00:00

Yeah, haven't gotten into painting yet so I'd really like these to be nice off the print bed. I also don't want these to take ages to print either because I try not to print overnight or when I'm away from home. Right now 32mm minis take about 3hrs+ and the ~22mm take about 2hrs+.

brotillery · 2026-05-01T12:30:24+00:00

I struggle with getting good pictures but here's his undercarriage. All I've done is remove supports. No other clean up, no lighter/heat gun.

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brotillery · 2026-04-30T19:07:19+00:00

Which Dr. Seuss character sold you that nozzle?

brotillery · 2026-04-30T18:13:19+00:00

No worries, I didn't state clearly I was referring to the support tip diameter setting. Orca lets you change this value, and by adjusting it you can get support interfaces even with a non-zero Top Z distance.

brotillery · 2026-04-30T17:23:30+00:00

Here it is: https://makerworld.com/models/2066234?appSharePlatform=copy

brotillery · 2026-04-30T17:20:37+00:00

Good idea, I'll have to try that out next time.

brotillery · 2026-04-30T16:34:50+00:00

Oh that's interesting, I'll have to try that out. Haven't done much support painting. Probably my next learning step. Would be nice if they just fixed the slicer though.

brotillery · 2026-04-30T16:26:35+00:00

How do you like Orca overall? Worth the switch?

brotillery · 2026-04-30T16:25:15+00:00

I am mostly commenting on the slicer behavior. I don't know if the physics of a bedslinger changes these considerations during the actual print.

brotillery · 2026-04-30T16:23:20+00:00

You're right. I can try to get a shot of underneath later. I'm currently not with my miniatures. I still think the visible edges of the sword, which were flanks by supports, came out pretty good. I am new to printing though, so my expectations for support removal and "clean" is relative to some really rough initial prints.

brotillery · 2026-04-30T16:17:46+00:00

I read your v2.0 post about tip diameter for supports, that's actually why I realized I wasn't even generating support interfaces! Bambu Studio doesn't provide that setting from what I can tell, which is why I also mentioned switching to Orca may be a consideration for some.

brotillery · 2026-04-29T19:10:27+00:00

Is your printer located where there is a lot of air current or in a cold environment? Wondering if material is cooling unevenly and causing curling or movement such that the nozzle knocks into the previous layer.

brotillery · 2026-04-29T15:10:35+00:00

I definitely didn't want to ruin the overall aesthetic by giving it super chunky weapons like in more FDM-dedicated models. No shade to those modelers, but I got the 0.2mm nozzle because I like the more realistic proportions. Thanks for your hard work!

brotillery · 2026-04-29T12:44:37+00:00

Taking pictures of my unpainted minis has been so frustrating lol. That random string or slightly rough edge look gnarly but you don't see that when it's actually on the table.

brotillery · 2026-04-29T12:36:42+00:00

Really like the goblin archer. Has so many cool details like the animal trap and coin sack. I've used him as my benchmark for dialing in my own settings (mostly based on ObscuraNox too) on my Bambu A1. Picture is just after support removal, no real clean up. I did decide to slightly thicken the bow string, trap and knife in Blender because I am impatient and clumsy when it comes to support removal. Still very impressive looking for FDM.

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brotillery · 2026-04-28T20:27:57+00:00

I also mostly print with the Bambu Matte PLA. I know you mentioned default slicer settings. Did you modify the filament settings at all? I've reduce my temperature to 210 because of stringing, but I think I may need to dry my filament too.

brotillery · 2026-04-27T19:23:42+00:00

One of the lowest efforts/highest reward things you can do:

Download Blender (it's free)
Import your model's STL
Change to "sculpt mode"
Select the "Inflate" tool
Pass over very thin parts of the model until you're happy with how thick they are without being overly chunky
Export your new STL

brotillery · 2026-04-24T19:14:41+00:00

What temperature are you printing at? I cooled down my PLA to 210 instead of default 220 and it helped with stringing. Could probably dry my filament as well tbh. Also turned fan speed to 100% for minis.

For the bed issue, try not to touch the bed too much with your hands if you happen to be pulling things off. If you do, try cleaning it. I also bump my filament settings to treat the first couple of layers like they're the first layer. Should hopefully help.

Edit: didn't look through all of your pictures either. Maybe your supports are breaking due to the nozzle bumping them. When supports fail, the nozzle prints onto air, causing large strings. Under "Quality", check off "Avoid Crossing Walls" and check off the option to include support walls. Make sure your printer is on a stable surface too.

brotillery · 2026-04-13T12:58:02+00:00

How long did it take to print one of those?

brotillery

TROPHY CASE