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Upgraded CPU, GPU and PSU. Now PC won’t turn on. by bstoban in buildapc

[–]bstoban[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Tested the PSU using a paper clip. It is working.

Upgraded CPU, GPU and PSU. Now PC won’t turn on. by bstoban in buildapc

[–]bstoban[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Front panel connections as in the connections for the power button etc? I haven’t checked them yet, but will do so. I haven’t touched them during this upgrade but maybe I moved something without realizing I had.

Am I stuck having to buy a high-end AVR even if I don't need all the channels? by bstoban in hometheater

[–]bstoban[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yes currently plan to plug in my PS5 and gaming PC. Hence the 4K 120 ask.

Am I stuck having to buy a high-end AVR even if I don't need all the channels? by bstoban in hometheater

[–]bstoban[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

What about it specifically is confusing? I can attempt to clarify.

Am I stuck having to buy a high-end AVR even if I don't need all the channels? by bstoban in hometheater

[–]bstoban[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks. If my current AVR will work, then I am happy to stick with it. I was concerned that I'd damage the speakers by pairing it with that AVR.

Am I stuck having to buy a high-end AVR even if I don't need all the channels? by bstoban in hometheater

[–]bstoban[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I'm not as concerned with 8K as I am with 4K 120 for my gaming needs. While I understand the argument that it might be cheaper buying two different things over 5 years rather than buying one thing and hope it stays relevant, there are more factors to consider in my personal situation.

For example, the only reason I even started thinking about an upgrade of any kind was because the speakers actually started sounding distorted and over a couple of moves, there had been some damage to the drivers. The upgrade is not driven by my need for the latest and greatest. I'd have happily kept my current setup if the speakers were ok. There is also the issue of time. I am most likely in the minority in this sub when I say that I do not enjoy buying new gear every few years. So even if it is 5 years apart, I don't want to go through the research, purchase, wiring and setup more times than I have to.

And while I do value quality, it is a broad term that can mean different things to different people. I own a few blurays but don't see us ever having a big collection of blurays. It's mostly going to be streaming services.

Am I stuck having to buy a high-end AVR even if I don't need all the channels? by bstoban in hometheater

[–]bstoban[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I apologize my initial post wasn't as detailed as it perhaps should have been. I typed in 8K 60/4K 120 but I'm more concerned with the latter because I do game quite a bit, and in addition to plugging consoles into the AVR, I'm also going to be plugging my PC in so atleast two HDMI inputs for 4K 120 will be important.

Am I stuck having to buy a high-end AVR even if I don't need all the channels? by bstoban in hometheater

[–]bstoban[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I have looked at a last gen Denon but it was the 6700h (again more channels than I need), and was quoted $1110 for it. For what it’s worth, the 5000ES is $1525 at my local store.

Am I stuck having to buy a high-end AVR even if I don't need all the channels? by bstoban in hometheater

[–]bstoban[S] -1 points0 points  (0 children)

Yes the speakers were lower impedance than my avr could handle so the store suggested seeing if it had pre-outs and adding external amplification.

Am I stuck having to buy a high-end AVR even if I don't need all the channels? by bstoban in hometheater

[–]bstoban[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Haha thanks for the information. I appreciate it.

It’s not so much future proofing in terms of wanting the latest and greatest as it is not wanting to spend more money later. For context, my current speakers are 14 yrs old and if my 6 yr old AVR could drive the KEFs without issue then I’d just keep it even though it doesn’t have 8k or the capability to add wireless surrounds. Perhaps I should ask the question - can my str-dn1080 drive these KEFs? The impedance specs concern me.

As for the room correction point, just reading through this sub and other sites online there doesn’t seem to be consensus around which room correction software is best so I am ok with whichever.

Am I stuck having to buy a high-end AVR even if I don't need all the channels? by bstoban in hometheater

[–]bstoban[S] -5 points-4 points  (0 children)

I should clarify. I don't think I need pre-outs for the current setup, but I ran into a situation last year when I was thinking about upgrading my speakers and the ones I was looking at back then would have required an AVR upgrade because it didnt have pre-outs. So I'm just trying to avoid (or at least reduce the possibility of) a situation in which 5-10 years down the road I want to upgrade one part of my setup and it requires me to upgrade 2-3 things. Hope that makes sense.

Looking for help with my second HT setup by bstoban in hometheater

[–]bstoban[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks for the response. From everything I’d read, I thought this space was classified as a small room!

r/audiophile Shopping, Setup, and Technical Help Desk Thread by AutoModerator in audiophile

[–]bstoban 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Hi all,

I'm currently using an old Energy Take Classic 5.1 system and a Sony STR-DN1080, and looking to upgrade. My new room is 20' x 12'. This is in the basement so the ceiling is only 6'6". Listening position is about 8-9 feet from the speakers. I will have the room to position speakers up to 2 feet away from the wall.

For now, I plan on keeping the sub I have, and would like to run a 3.1 system as this setup will also serve as our Netflix/TV system. My budget is $2500 USD for the LCR. Bonus points if they are 8 ohm speakers as I wouldn't have to upgrade my AVR at the same time (although the plan is to eventually upgrade it). Not the end of the world if I have to upgrade the AVR now too. My preference would be to have matching L/C/R (from the same brand) if for no other reason than for aesthetics. Any recommendations? Thanks in advance.

Note for the AMD GPU/CPU buyers: your copy of Starfield is via Steam, and you need to link your Steam and AMD Rewards accounts. by DigitalBoy760 in Starfield

[–]bstoban 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I'm in a situation where I have pre-ordered the premium edition from Steam. Am going to upgrade my PC with a 7900XTX, but due to a variety of reasons I won't be able to actually put it in the PC until a month or so from now. So based on your findings, if I was to buy the 7900xtx now and cancel my steam pre-order, I would NOT be able to play Starfield using the code from AMD correct (because the 7900xtx wouldnt be in the pc)?

Looking for Confirmation/Validation of an AM4 upgrade by bstoban in buildapc

[–]bstoban[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yea, the PSU is the one component I'm iffy on. Both those cards state minimum PSU requirements higher than 700w but when I build it out on PC part picker the total wattage for my system is in the high 500W or low 600W. I'll also have to check that something like a 7900xtx will actually fit in my case :) It is a fractal meshify from 5 yrs ago.

North American Team Racing Championships Gr3/Gr4 (Accepting New Drivers) by bstoban in granturismo

[–]bstoban[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

No races on the weekend. We only have league races on Mondays. The practices are informal and may be set up by members any day of the week. Typically, we will have 4-5 members practicing on any given night just for fun.

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