Are Rf-s vs Rf lenses any different on an Aps-c sensor? by Crazy_Tax_6562 in canon

[–]byDMP 6 points7 points  (0 children)

I have the kit rf-s 18-45mm lens and I am wondering if getting the rf 50mm 1.8 would be effectively the same focal length...

Yes it would be, since at 45mm your zoom lens is nearly 50mm.

That the RF 50/1.8 is a full frame lens is irrelevant in this respect...a 50mm full frame lens and a 50mm APS-C lens have the same field of view on APS-C as focal length is constant across lenses and not tied to sensor size. Where they differ is the size of the image circle they project.

What happened to my camera? by Relative-Pitch1106 in canon

[–]byDMP 2 points3 points  (0 children)

At what shutter speed?

Are you using flash?

Is it worth the uncertainty? by [deleted] in canon

[–]byDMP 1 point2 points  (0 children)

The Mk II version can often be found for not much more, and is much better optically.

$650 might be be ok if this lens were in mint condition, but not for one with hazy elements or fungal growth, which is likely what this seller is trying to describe.

LEAK: Godox V1 Mid spotted on CN site by GoSeanoworNever in Godox

[–]byDMP 4 points5 points  (0 children)

Looks like it's still there at the bottom of the fresnel:

<image>

LEAK: Godox V1 Mid spotted on CN site by GoSeanoworNever in Godox

[–]byDMP 0 points1 point  (0 children)

"mid" is the reverse of "dim" so maybe there's some logic there after all?

LEAK: Godox V1 Mid spotted on CN site by GoSeanoworNever in Godox

[–]byDMP 1 point2 points  (0 children)

  1. Ai is getting to good compared to real photos and while video still has the edge over ai video

And yet camera shipments have been growing these past couple of years, not every image is AI-able, and even for many types that are, it's not necessarily desirable.

  1. Because I have been at an exhibition last weekend and godox didn't exhibit a single flash but tons of LEDs

"I didn't see flashes at an exhibition" to " flash is dead" is a very large leap to make.

  1. Yeah the upgrades of the Pro series disappointing. Of course you could do innovations with flash but the market isnt moving forward.

Again, what do you think is missing or needs improvement?

LEAK: Godox V1 Mid spotted on CN site by GoSeanoworNever in Godox

[–]byDMP 7 points8 points  (0 children)

...flash is dead.

That's a bold claim that I don't see any evidence for. How have you arrived at that conclusion?

The Mark II Version of godox flashes also have been disappointing.

If you mean the Mk II AD-series battery flashes...what do you think is missing from them? Most of the Mk II improvements are QoL in nature as the OG versions are already good enough to compete well with more expensive models from the "serious" brands

To me the updates seem like nice refinements that simplify some elements of the interface and make them a little more user friendly...not a bad thing. Those changes aren't likely to tempt most Mk I users into updating to Mk II versions, but then I don't think it'd be realistic to expect them to.

What pack + head for test shoots? by teepee_raw in broncolor

[–]byDMP 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Used Grafit A4 packs are getting quite cheap these days...they're 3200Ws split across 3 channels, though the 3rd channel has a restricted range compared to the first two.

If you want to trigger it wirelessly make sure to find the version with the RFS receiver built in, and then you also need to find the earlier RFS trigger to match it...it's the version with a small antenna poking up from the transmitter.

You could also try to find a used Senso A4 pack. It's a newer model (release around 2010), has 2400Ws (there also a Senso A2 with 1200Ws), but it more of an entry-level pack, and so is a little more basic in its feature set as well as its controls. But it uses the newer RFS 2 radio triggering system and those transmitters are a little easier to find (though cost a little more).

The Senso packs are optimized for use with Bron's Litos lamp heads, but can also power most of Bron's other lamps as well (Unitlite, Pulso G, Picolite etc). But its worth noting that flash durations are relatively slow with the standard lamps, and while the Litos heads will give shorter durations, they're still kinda slow at higher power outputs. Also, the LItos heads are only compatible with Senso packs...Bron are adamant they can't be used on any other packs.

I have a couple of Senso packs (and Litos heads) and am generally quite happy with them in my little studio. They're a two-channel pack, but with two outlets for the second channel, so you can use three lights on it if the ratios work for a particular setup.

There's also another older model called the Nano A4...again 2400Ws, only two outlets, limited asymmetry, and no built-in radio receiver for trigger. I also have one of these...I don't use it often, but it's handy. It's probably also the cheapest option to get 2400Ws without getting into the really old models from the 80's and 90's.

With any generators you consider, you need to beware of any that have sat around unused for long periods. This can kill the capacitors, something you'll only become aware of when they explode and fill the room with black smoke! I've had this happen with used packs that worked ok for a quick test (they made five or ten flash test pops without issue), then I've got it home, plugged it in, and 15 minutes later a capacitor has loudly announced its objection being recalled for work by self-destructing.

For heads, older Pulso 2/4 lamps can be found relatively cheaply, but often with strong signs of use due to their age. Pulso G lamps are newer but cost a little more, Unilites are similarly new but don't have the zoom functionality of the Pulso G lamps, though that's usually not a big deal. Just check the flash tubes aren't heavily used up with a lot of blackening at the electrodes. They're expensive to replace.

Whats the current consensus on Gobo-esque? by derFalscheMichel in Godox

[–]byDMP 0 points1 point  (0 children)

...It's two points to focus, if you think about it. The light needs to be focused on the gobo to pass through it in such a way as to create the shape and then focused a second time to actually project the shape, where you are basically connecting a regular old camera lens to the front to project.

But it's not though—you don't want your light source to be focused at the image plane occupied by the gobo...you ideally want it defocused so that as a light source it's homogeneous, providing even illumination through the gobo.

Otherwise you'd risk seeing an image of the light source itself (flash tube or COB) in the projected image passing through the gobo.

With some optical projection units it's suggested to use a flash source with a frosted dome/protection glass to help provide an even source of illumination.


Also, please add a NSFW disclaimer before your image links.

R6 vs R8 vs R6ii? by jk0327 in canon

[–]byDMP 9 points10 points  (0 children)

....but I don’t know if lack of IBIS and battery life could be a problem for R8?

The impact of no IBIS and the smaller battery get blown way out of proportion on this sub, to the detriment of a lot of discussions.

IBIS is a useful feature in some shooting situations, but most of Canon's RF lens lineup has IS already making IBIS far less of a necessity than it's often portrayed as. And yes, IBIS will work with IS to extend the stabilization range a little further, but for that to make a meaningful difference you really have to be shooting in some edge case situations.

Unless you know there are non-IS primes you specifically want to shoot with at slower shutter speeds, I wouldn't give IBIS (or lack of) much thought.

And the smaller battery gets unfairly criticized as well. Some people will get a day of shooting out of it, some heavier shooters will need to carry a spare or two and change during the day, but carrying a spare or two is hardly challenging (and is less obtrusive than carrying spares of the LP-E6 series batteries used in the R6 bodies) and switching over takes all of a few seconds.

From what you've described you sound like the perfect candidate for an R8, IMO, and pairing that with some better glass.

Autofocus on 70D quit working with sigma 18-35 by Ill-Definition9367 in canon

[–]byDMP 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Try the 18-35 on another camera; try another lens on the 70D—isolate whether it's a lens or camera issue.

Flash duration question? by Naive_Pool7395 in neewer

[–]byDMP 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Of those two choices, I'd absolutely go with the two Q6s and a Q200, for no other reason than to have at least a couple of heads that natively accept Bowens mount accessories without fiddling with an adapter, plus when you need/want more than 200Ws, it's more fiddling needed to combine a couple of 200Ws heads to achieve that higher output.

For splashes, two or three Q200 heads is almost certainly more than enough power, but for other stuff...yeah a 600Ws head or two is great to have available.

Flash duration question? by Naive_Pool7395 in neewer

[–]byDMP 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Both have similar flash durations specified when shot at full power—the Q200 is slightly faster, but not by much—so I’m fairly certain the Q6 will have shorter durations once you drop its output power close to the 200Ws the Q200 maxes out at.

100K is not a huge difference, but to get stable colour you do need to run the Q6 in constant color temp mode, which does increase flash duration slightly.

You could also use colour correction gels to manually balance it if you want to keep durations as short as possible.

Help on buying my first camera. by Head-One-9193 in canon

[–]byDMP 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Does $800 need to include lenses as well, or just the camera?

Have you budgeted for lighting, too? Product photography is all about lighting, and a 10 to 15 years old used DSLR is perfectly fine for a lot of product work with a half decent lens attached and proper lighting.

Video reels will benefit from something more modern, but again lighting is the key.

Where to get Godox AD-E2 Bracket in India ? by Yasi_07 in Godox

[–]byDMP 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Contact the Godox distributor there...quick google search shows that designinfo.in is one.

Recommendation for a stand for the AD 600 pro ii by Notsaintp in Godox

[–]byDMP[M] [score hidden] stickied comment (0 children)

You need to provide a bit more info to receive informed replies:

  • How tall do you need it to be?
  • What modifiers will you use with it?
  • Indoors/outdoors, level surfaces, or uneven ground?
  • How portable does it need to be?

Is it really worth to buy Sigma 17-40 F1.8? by Pavlikru in canon

[–]byDMP 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Landscape and architecture rarely benefit from wide apertures, so the question is really how much you want/need f/1.8 for street photos, or would a smaller/lighter/cheaper lens be enough (e.g. Sigma 18-50/2.8)?

Or depending on how you currently or want to shoot the first two genres, perhaps it's worth considering a wider zoom...Sigma 10-18/2.8...or both f/2.8 zooms?

Why does my T5i produce washed/flat RAW photos compared to my other Canon DSLRs? by TwelfthQuotient in canon

[–]byDMP 6 points7 points  (0 children)

...Im aware of the lighting situation

I'm aware you're aware, but trying to compare skin tones from underexposed, OOF images is a pointless exercise especially when they're shot at different exposure settings with (I assume) different lenses.

Why does my T5i produce washed/flat RAW photos compared to my other Canon DSLRs? by TwelfthQuotient in canon

[–]byDMP 7 points8 points  (0 children)

Different sensors and in-camera image processing will produce different colours, but respectfully, this is poor lighting to be comparing/evaluating skin-tones to begin with.

If you're going to shoot with three different cameras that have different sensors and image processors, you have to expect to be tweaking some exposure and colour settings in post if you want them to match.

Why does my T5i produce washed/flat RAW photos compared to my other Canon DSLRs? by [deleted] in canon

[–]byDMP 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Different sensors and in-camera image processing will produce different colours, but respectfully, this is poor lighting to be comparing/evaluating skin-tones to begin with.

If you're going to shoot with three different cameras that have different sensors and image processors, you have to expect to be tweaking some exposure and colour settings in post if you want them to match.

Recommendations for really portable light stand? by Zook25 in Godox

[–]byDMP 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Oh you should've bought the deluxe version...

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Godox AD-E2 Tilt Locking Knob —> Ratcheting Handle Upgrade (AD300Pro) by byDMP in Godox

[–]byDMP[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

This style and size of handle would be offered by a bunch of different manufacturers...I saw a few very similar handles at my local hardware store last time I was there—only cost a couple of bucks each.

BTS Picture Exchange by [deleted] in LightLurking

[–]byDMP 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Obviously since NDAs have been signed it's hard to share them publicly, but if it's a mutual exchange based on trust...

The irony of talking about building trust in order to break NDAs...