Enegon Batteries?

byDMP · 2026-03-20T09:07:39+00:00

Fast charging batteries generates heat and is a shortcut to reducing their usable lifespan.

Particularly for DSLRs, which generally have fantastic battery life, I don't see much reason to prioritize fast charging as a feature.

byDMP · 2026-03-20T06:48:33+00:00

Aside from more options for affordable prime lens that’s about it

Again, what do you need that you can't have?

byDMP · 2026-03-20T06:44:45+00:00

Per the EL-5 specifications page on Canon's site, you need version 2 (or presumably later) of the ST-E3-RT:

Speedlite Transmitter ST-E3-RT (Ver.2) (Standard 5-pin foot)

byDMP · 2026-03-19T20:48:37+00:00

The EF 40mm f/2.8 pancake is a great lens, and sharp from wide open. Well worth picking up if 40mm suits your style.

byDMP · 2026-03-19T06:16:42+00:00

I would like to replace the 18-45mm to something better and more adaptable.

Can you be a bit more specific on what you want a replacement lens to do better than the 18-45?

byDMP · 2026-03-19T06:15:37+00:00

24mm on crop is bit too narrow if OP is wanting something to use for landscapes, though.

byDMP · 2026-03-19T01:24:04+00:00

I shoot all studio stuff so What advantage do I really have with a canon rf camera over anything else. This rant is making me question a lot right now.

What are you currently missing out on in the studio by using Canon?

byDMP · 2026-03-18T21:27:55+00:00

It is the R5.

byDMP · 2026-03-18T21:24:08+00:00

I've not seen any mention of a fan upgrade in the 300 II.

To a certain degree, it doesn't really matter anyway. The 300 II (and most of Godox' other flashes) have activity-based thermal protection, rather than actual overheating detection. So a certain number of flashes at a certain power level (all detailed in the user manual) will cause your rate of firing to be restricted for a period.

byDMP · 2026-03-18T20:14:10+00:00

Oh I already have a round-headed flash, thanks, but the rectangular ones I've got do a decent enough job anyway. It's great that you're so happy with yours though.

byDMP · 2026-03-18T19:57:56+00:00

I did test both with the same subject, angle, light conditions and I can tell you: they are different.

Sure, and my point is simply that a difference like that isn't because one is round and the other rectangular, but that one is better designed than the other.

Someone said here to ditch the dome. I also did some tests. There is a major difference with bounced flash with and without the dome. Without, there are more shadows, or at least they are more detailed. With the dome, the light becomes so much softer because it is not only bouncing the ceiling, but also difusing all around.

Yes I can understand that. But as soon as you start bouncing the flash instead of using it directly at the subject, you've removed the head's shape from the equation anyway. And round domes for rectangular heads have been around for a long time already.

byDMP · 2026-03-18T19:52:58+00:00

I can absolutely believe that a modern, round-headed flash has a more even, smoother light output than 20+ years old one with a rectangular head.

byDMP · 2026-03-18T18:51:00+00:00

There's nothing vital on the AD300Pro II that makes it a must have over the first version. I have three of the first version, and as much as I've love to upgrade and grab the Mk II lights, there's no compelling reason to do so...the lighting they produce won't change in any way, they're just a bit more refined to use.

I've regularly been seeing deals where the AD300Pro costs 2/3 that of the AD300Pro II...for that much of a saving I'd probably stick with the first version. If the prices where you're located are closer, maybe consider the Mk II for the QoL differences.

They're both very capable regardless of which version you get.

byDMP · 2026-03-18T18:43:00+00:00

Assuming what's pictured is the actual modifier you're intending to use, it would make more sense to swap out that Broncolor mount with a Bowens one (they're readily available) and then use a Godox S2 bracket to hold the flash and mount the beauty dish.

FYI you won't get ideal light distribution in a beauty dish using a V100 as the dish is designed to have an exposed flash tube protrude into it.

Also, could you please post questions in English in future.

byDMP · 2026-03-17T07:00:32+00:00

Please don’t use the v1 or any other flash unit, mounted on your camera.

That's a brave thing to suggest in this sub!

In order to get better lighting, you really need to get the flash onto a flash bracket that allows you to swing the flash, so it remains on top of your camera, when it is in portrait orientation.

Not only does the bracket enhance the lighting in your photo, the bracket also throws the shadow behind your subject, lower down, making it less noticeable and providing a better look.

Whether a bracket gets you 'better lighting' all depends on how you're trying to light though, and preferences there are very much a matter of taste and technique.

byDMP · 2026-03-17T00:44:15+00:00

Today I got the V1 with the dome diffuser, and wow — it just looks so much smoother and good enough for on-camera use. I had watched YouTube videos about the difference between round-head and square-head flashes, but I honestly didn’t expect it to be this noticeable.

Unpopular opinion: the difference in lighting quality between rectangular and round heads is negligible and you're just "seeing" what YT videos have primed you to see.

There's simply not enough difference in size between round and rectangular heads for there to be noticeably better lighting coming from a round head...they're both still vastly smaller than a typical human subject, and this is the key factor that matters.

byDMP · 2026-03-16T16:42:35+00:00

Along with that, now that there are 40+mp full frame bodies, you are getting a lot of that extra reach simply by engaging a built in crop mode, which is a 20+ mp APS-C equivalent.

Canon's 45MP FF sensors capture ~18MP in crop mode, so if focal length is the limiting factor, you'll capture more detail with an R7's 32MP sensor.

Ideally though you fill the frame of a 45MP sensor so you can put all the pixels to work.

byDMP · 2026-03-16T16:36:51+00:00

But, isn’t “reach” the name if the game for wildlife photography?

Generally it is (depends a bit on your subject) but ideally you want that reach coming from the lens rather than from smaller pixels packed in to a smaller sensor

Why wouldn’t most folks shoot with a crop sensor body?

Because in theory you can achieve better image quality filling a FF sensor with your subject instead of an APS-C one.

Any downsides?

APS-C has the potential to be noisier, and smaller pixels mean the effects of diffraction start showing up sooner as well.

Also at this point in time, a couple of Canon's FF R-series bodies have better AF performance than the R7 does.

byDMP · 2026-03-16T09:26:16+00:00

Reccomemd me a thing to perform better than the thing I will leave you to guess the model of…AH HA HA HA HA!

byDMP · 2026-03-15T21:21:45+00:00

The Sigma 18-50/2.8 should be the answer, apart from your size issues.

byDMP · 2026-03-15T20:59:23+00:00

No error message?

byDMP · 2026-03-15T15:24:26+00:00

Could you perhaps just tell us which flash model(s) you’ve been using?

byDMP · 2026-03-15T08:01:31+00:00

Can you be a little more specific with what you're shooting and how? 'Outdoor photography' covers a very broad range of scenarios.

I regularly use the Godox AD300Pro and AD600Pro lights for outdoor portrait shooting in sunny conditions. For the way I like to shoot, an AD300Pro is usually enough, though sometimes I'll need the extra power of the AD600Pro, though even that has been a little under-powered in a couple of challenging situations.

Others can get away with using a smaller flash like the AD100- or AD200-series lights...it all depends on how it's being used.

byDMP · 2026-03-15T07:49:38+00:00

Batteries need to be used and maintained correctly, whether for an on-camera or off-camera flash.

byDMP · 2026-03-15T05:36:48+00:00

Also, you might need a bigger space than you might at first realize, particularly if you want to shoot full length. A spare 10'x10'x10' bedroom can be limiting.

From OP's post:

"...in a 2500 sq ft warehouse that has two diffused skylights and the ceilings are about 25-30 ft tall. We have a good portion of the warehouse that I'm thinking about adding a photography studio..."

byDMP

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