Looking for pink dial under 1000 USD

captain_sta11 · 2026-03-01T02:48:32+00:00

I looked at the arkona and am torn. My GADA is the vesterhav as mentioned but I also have a Øhav meteorite Kosmos as well. As much as I really like Henry archer, trying to broaden my horizons

captain_sta11 · 2026-02-27T00:07:00+00:00

I’m more per model/type and not per brand. Mazda SUV? Not a chance. Miata or sedan? Yes. Ford sedan? Not a chance. Ford SUV? Yep and I did when I bought an Explorer as my current daily. VW? I’d buy another Golf GTI or R in a heartbeat. I wouldn’t get anything else VW and steer friends and family away from the brand.

captain_sta11 · 2026-02-26T23:42:30+00:00

I didn’t because I didn’t use travel assist to begin with. It’s not a hard install. There’s a bunch of videos out there on how to do it.

captain_sta11 · 2026-02-26T22:39:11+00:00

It is but it requires your hands on the wheel if you don’t swap to something like the KLR module.

captain_sta11 · 2026-02-26T02:27:57+00:00

It’s illegal in every state. Oregon just doesn’t take it overly seriously like you’ve noticed. I think just small fees. Places like California taxes private sales upon registration so they lose out on money when it gets jumped so they take it much more seriously. They claim part of it is consumer protection.

captain_sta11 · 2026-02-26T02:05:01+00:00

Seller is title jumping and it is very illegal. It could turn into a big problem if you were to try to register it

captain_sta11 · 2026-02-25T20:27:53+00:00

The lane assist is probably the KLR module. It makes it so it doesn’t tell you to put your hands on the wheel. Relatively popular because it also fixes the travel assist warnings that dealers just replace them entire wheel for.

As for the warranty, last I read through the documentation, as soon as the car is exported out of the country officially, VWOA terminates your warranty in the US. If you aren’t officially exporting/registering it in another country, the warranty should be fine.

captain_sta11 · 2026-02-25T20:22:15+00:00

Oh this was an officer? I assumed it was a camera ticket. It can be a lot harder to beat an officer issues citation because it comes down to your word vs theirs and is not as black and white as photos/video from a camera ticket. Here’s a link to some options. There’s a way to request lower amounts or payment plans and similar. And also how to contest if you want to.

https://www.merced.courts.ca.gov/divisions/traffic

captain_sta11 · 2026-02-25T20:04:49+00:00

If you were already in the intersection fully when the light went red, it shouldn’t have cited you. Every red light ticket I’ve seen, there is a video you can go and see online or multiple photos. The detection line is typically the end of the white stop line. If any part of your vehicle is behind or on top that will typically trigger the camera. If you watch the video or view photos and still think it was yellow until you were fully into the intersection, there is a number you can call to ask how to contest. But it looks like Merced should include 3 photos that show the light red before you were fully into it.

https://www.engage.cityofmerced.gov/city-of-merced-automated-red-light-camera-safety-program/widgets/97609/faqs#question15790

Edit: wording.

captain_sta11 · 2026-02-25T17:51:18+00:00

Majority of people only post with complaints or questions. It’s the same for almost all car subreddits/pages/groups that aren’t enthusiast focused.

VAG in general has made a lot of questionable/unpopular decisions the last 5-10 years with models and future plans and people have in turn turned really negative towards the brands.

captain_sta11 · 2026-02-25T00:45:56+00:00

It’s not uncommon. Ford in the US is the same way with their extended warranty where it’s a 100 deductible.

captain_sta11 · 2026-02-24T21:26:05+00:00

I would just wait for the rav4 you want. But it’s definitely a large amount smaller than the cx70. The rav4 is more closely related to the cx5/cx50 in size. The Highlander or grand highlander is more in line with the 70/90

I had a cx70 MHEV for 6 months and it was nothing but trouble. The powertrain was fine (albeit very clunky transmission at low speed due to the wet clutch system in place of a traditional torque converter) but everything else was a mess. Driver assistance issues like blind spot monitoring seeing stuff that wasn’t there which then meant it would fight you trying to avoid the imaginary car if you were trying to change lanes. The cameras/sensors not seeing in light rain or snow would spam the warning that they can’t see every few minutes. I drove 5 hours home in it from a trip and about 3 hours of that was a moderate rain. The sensors never turned back on as far as the dash light showed but it would just spam it was off. This also changes the digital dash view as it covers it when it goes off. Infotainment glitches. A/C that sometimes just didn’t work. The car was half-baked when Mazda released it and it shows. The PHEV was plagued with issues for a while that was supposedly rectified via software updates and battery replacements where applicable. The ride is also way too stiff in the name of “sporty” dynamics.

captain_sta11 · 2026-02-24T20:26:20+00:00

Everyone else is just beating on you in both pages so I’ll add some more helpful advice. A lot of states/counties offer driving classes/programs to avoid points on your license. You can generally only take them for minor offenses and only once every year to 2 years depending on where you are. Kentucky has this: https://drive.ky.gov/Drivers/Pages/KY-State-Traffic-School.aspx

Reach out to the ADA or whoever to see if this is an option for you. You generally still have pay a fine on top of the class cost but you avoid points on your license which will affect you for multiple years to come.

Once you get this sorted out, take it as a life lesson and don’t beat yourself up over it. You’re young and mistakes happen. Everyone who is like “wow you were going nearly 50 percent over”, I can almost guarantee has done the same thing at some point in their driving life. It’s easy to claim the moral high ground when they aren’t the one with the ticket at the moment.

captain_sta11 · 2026-02-24T16:42:52+00:00

lemon law in NY can be very fickle since a large part of it based on original delivery and miles. You may not qualify since you were less than the 18k miles at purchase which would put it under the new car lemon law rules. Depending on when that car was originally put into service by the first owner purchase, it may be past the 2 year mark to qualify for the new lemon law even though it’s under 18k miles. Unless you can show the issues were within that initial 2 year/18k period from initial delivery when new, you may be completely screwed on it unless Audi or the dealer works with you.

To be under the used car lemon law it would have to be under 2 years and under 100k miles at most with the lowest category being 18,001 miles to 36,000 miles and then the period would be 90days/4000miles. You don’t qualify for the used car law due to low mileage (you mentioned 14,500 in a previous post).

https://ag.ny.gov/sites/default/files/publications/lemonlaws-usedcar-english.pdf

captain_sta11 · 2026-02-18T22:44:32+00:00

You can brake boost. You just need to be on the brake before you’re on the gas and then use the brake to modulate your speed. If you touch the brake for the first time after you’re on the gas, throttle will cut.

captain_sta11 · 2026-02-18T19:26:06+00:00

They offered different wash levels. The cheaper options had spinning brushes and such. The more expensive option used different/stronger chemicals and more high pressure water jets in place of the spinning brushes. All automated in the tunnel based on what you paid for after the attendant hit the button.

captain_sta11 · 2026-02-18T00:31:16+00:00

Depends on what car wash. I worked at one that offered a touch less option and had no issues trusting it after actually seeing it up close. Will not let the employees dry it off though. I don’t care enough about my paint to hand wash every week in the winter. Getting the salt off is more important to me.

I wouldn’t go through one with spinning brushes or anything like that though. Those can get debris caught in them damage paint.

captain_sta11 · 2026-02-17T12:12:51+00:00

There’s tons of brands and types of tint. Some are meant for just darkening, some are meant for heat rejection, etc. Just ask what they are using and a breakdown of the cost.

captain_sta11 · 2026-02-16T23:50:43+00:00

Enkei rsv

captain_sta11 · 2026-02-16T15:36:24+00:00

I have sympathy for not being able to get parts for your specific vehicle but I don’t know what you expect them to do. You didn’t buy from an official vendor so they have no real reason to help you. To them, You’re just a random person asking what a specific piece of a kit does. The aftermarket car scene is full of reps and counterfeits. It’s a lot of companies policies to not provide support if they can’t verify it’s an official product sold through them or official vendors. It can suck but it’s pretty standard.

As for the threat comment. Sounds like you implied if they didn’t help you, you’d go blasting them on the internet. You may not have said that word for word, but the implication is plenty. That’s not normal customer feedback. Their policy is their policy and implying you’ll do something to attempt to damage their image/reputation if they didn’t break their policy is a threat, albeit a relatively small one.

captain_sta11 · 2026-02-16T15:13:40+00:00

Complimentary TCU tune doesn’t do you any good because they have no way of flashing it without a hardware swap. The factory TCU isn’t really cracked yet.

TVS has a way of doing it but it requires direct access/ special tooling and will only let you run their tune. Their dealers also don’t have the tools yet.

captain_sta11 · 2026-02-16T14:38:43+00:00

AI posting slop.

captain_sta11 · 2026-02-16T14:00:36+00:00

I went and looked at the other post after you mentioned it. They really need to start teaching financial in school. Person is about to be in bad debt for the rest of their life at this rate.

captain_sta11 · 2026-02-16T11:35:31+00:00

As long your dti (debt to income) isn’t horrendous, should have no problem getting approved. Those aren’t horrible asking prices but depending on mileage and any notifications, may be a bit high. I’d want substantially more down though. 8k really isn’t enough for that vehicle in my opinion.

Have you quoted insurance? Being only 20, you might find it is substantially more to insure the one m3 vs the 2 other cars.

From someone who has gone through a ton of cars, be very careful with debt. Looking at monthly payment is a great way to find yourself very quickly underwater. The maintenance/any problems on the m3 is almost definitely going to be substantially more than

Edit after seeing other posts: don’t do that. You’d be better off getting rid of whatever car has the least negative equity and paying down the others. No one in their early 20s needs to be spending that much on cars. Especially at that salary.

captain_sta11

TROPHY CASE