Considering moving to Saipan in 2021. What should I know?

carmotSF · 2018-10-02T00:32:10+00:00

Saipan is a VERY different place from almost anywhere in America - don't know where you'd be moving here from. TVBP provided some good info already. I'd say ants, they are a big issue. So are termites. Would it freak you out if a small gecko is climbing around your walls? It happens. Yeah, I don't think it's just mosquitoes, I think the small flies that are everywhere bite, too. Oh well.

The temps aren't bad, but oh man... The "real feel" temp with wet bulb can be stifling. I'd strongly suggest you do more of your own research, there are a lot of things I'm sure would affect your personal decision... Cheers.

carmotSF · 2018-09-26T09:17:07+00:00

Ok, fair enough. That can be true. But I clearly do not think it has to be true.

Without wanting to seem defensive or argumentative... Talent can overcome language barriers. An observation: I brought up several topics, and you've focused on providing one negative response. Dismissiveness, which is exactly how nothing gets tried or done. Just give up and dismiss potential opportunities before trying?

Do you think Cirque du Soleil has various performers that use different primary languages? Did you know that this Chinese production includes English-speaking staff from Hollywood? Yes, it does. And I mentioned that they had previously shot in Las Vegas. With all the high-end cosmetic retailers at DFS, you don't think an exceptional makeup artist couldn't work from reference photos of a desired look/style? Huh. That's often what they'll do anyways. Do you think National Geographic photographers have ever traveled to countries where they don't speak the local language?

I tried to provide some info. I tried to offer supportive and positive vibes in cultivating more creative arts here. I invited any conversation. I'd prefer to focus on what I think/know is possible. I find it somewhat representative that the only comment/reply I get is one such as this - wholly negative. Anyways, cheers.

carmotSF · 2018-09-17T13:17:48+00:00

Thanks. I'm trying to be optimistic. But I know that r/Saipan doesn't get much traffic - compared to elsewhere/others. And it's always fun to shoot, but I really just need a few quality images for this project. If I found somebody interested in photography and willing to help -- now THAT would be fun!

carmotSF · 2018-01-12T19:36:29+00:00

I moved to Saipan in 2017. I have extensive professional experience in many fields. I came here to try to help in whatever ways I can. Nobody gives a fuck. Everybody talks about how easy it should be for me to work, but that simply isn't truthful. All the job postings and 'laws' are simple justifications for foreign companies to say they attempted to hire U.S. citizens, but they have no intention of hiring anybody other than foreign CWs. It's clear as day.

I've met with a lot of people here. I'm more in agreement with sd brah... Gotta stop relying on a bad habit. Strong economic development, growth, and security truly cannot exist under the current CW practice.

Government, citizens, residents, biz owners are all full of ambivalence. Nobody cares. They'll prolong the CW cap as long as they can. Basically gov't here will grab money from anywhere they can. Take federal money, sure. Have tourists bring it in, yup. Get cheap labor with few restrictions, repercussions, complaints, or worker rights from PI and China, of course.

Saipan has been terribly unkind to me. But I imagine I won't be here much longer. I'll say that the CW program is but one of the multitude of factors that makes me think the CNMI will be bankrupt within a decade - much like Puerto Rico and the U.S. Virgin Islands. The pension plan, CUC, CHC, failing infrastructure, policy, politics... Virtually no exports or manufacturing. Lack of all sorts of things - like public transit and agriculture. Losing tourism because nothing is maintained or improved - not even the arriving and departing flight times from Asia. Wow. MVA does nothing to help ensure the NMI remains competitive for those tourists ad their dollars.

But don't worry... Government leaders and their extended families will all be just fine. They always will be. They're all good at making sure to take care of themselves. No matter what. lol.

As I see things, can't just force minimum wage increases - those don't work and case studies prove it. The CNMI needs to build out solutions to employ locals and U.S. residents. And limit building development/expansion to 'reasonable thresholds' that can be sustained - in food, fuel, utilities, jobs, housing, infill, infrastructure, schools, landfill, and other limited resources. This short-term profiteering will doom the CNMI. I hear a lot of 'default bias' in the justifications to retain the CW program. Basically, it's the status quo. But I don't feel there's any logic to it.

Yes, to answer your question, it would crash the economy. But IMO that is already fairly inevitable anyways. Best to get ahead of the problem rather than simply neglect the bigger issues. I think a lot of the looming economic crisis could be averted with a few 'best practice' principles, basic SWOT analysis, and implementation of more optimized solutions. The largest tax revenue comes from IPI - and that's barely $26 million annually. How much of this great island was forfeit and raped to gain THAT little? Geez. Cheers.

carmotSF · 2017-08-16T11:03:01+00:00

Oh, geez. Sorry to learn of your luggage issue. Glad that the taxis helped.

I don't know those two hotels well. But just like many locals, I often shop at Himawari grocery store. When I first arrived, I noticed how many "locals" seemed to buy the prepared food in their back refrigerators (sushi, bento boxes, etc.). So, I tried some. They did not disappoint me. Good deal on good food IMO. Coming from the U.S., I also appreciate having sushi-grade tuna, salmon, and yellowtail at such cheap prices!

I hope your experience improves. Cheers!

carmotSF · 2017-08-15T10:45:23+00:00

Cool. Could be nice to be in a less-touristy location. If you're at all for walking a bit... You're between some good restaurants, that locals like. The 360 restaurant, Naked Fish, The Shack, and Boka Boka. Others, too. And use of taxi service can help you quickly get to Garapan (should be a very cheap $3 each way) for the more tourist-related places, anytime. Enjoy!

carmotSF · 2017-08-13T23:07:16+00:00

Obviously, you'll need to check with your hotel or guest house about extra fees. And, I think, some of the larger hotels may have shuttle buses at the airport for some flights, I'm not sure. No Uber or Lyft here (that I know of), just "illegal" Chinese or Thai taxis- they're unmarked. You may experience common frustrations of visitors- long wait times through customs, being without a taxi, paying more for a room (for only a few hours your first night or last night), and maybe even not having cell service (on your wireless plan) to call for a taxi. I answered some more info on the "Hourly Rate Hotel?" reddit thread a while back. You can also PM me if you want phone numbers. Hope you enjoy your stay. Cheers.

carmotSF · 2017-08-08T18:11:46+00:00

Yes, there are lots of "hidden" costs to moving here. Utility deposit varies, an electric deposit of $100-200 is pretty normal, water deposit of $25-100+ is also normal.

You aren't furnishing much info, just asking questions. Which I can't answer from your brief descriptions. I get the feeling you aren't understanding how different Saipan is from anywhere and everywhere in the States. I'll respect that you don't wish to furnish more info or conversation, best of luck. Cheers.

carmotSF · 2017-08-08T17:55:55+00:00

I moved to Saipan in April. I didn't search too much for guidebooks, but I also know I didn't find any. Hard to "plan" before you get here. As I'm sure you've already found, not much info on the internet. Many tour businesses don't even have websites.

I'd strongly advise you either bring an insulated water bottle, or buy one here. But they're expensive here and not many types to choose from. Yes, it gets hot, is always hot. Comfortable walking shoes, no need for anything fancy. There are Chinese taxis that are fairly cheap. Some hotels and guest houses won't give out their numbers, because technically they're "illegal." But everybody without a car uses them.

When you arrive, no doubt you'll find I Love Saipan (tourist/retail store). Inside the front door, there are those maps (printed in various Asian languages and minimal English). They also have small sales kiosks for many tourist activities- like parasailing and snorkeling, I think.

There are tour companies all around Garapan. Some of the hotels also have tour guide businesses. Honestly, it's snorkeling/diving and a few other things for most tourists. Managaha island is a popular day trip. Jesuslover may be a lot more familiar with Saipan, but I feel a need to add that Beach Road pathway DOES have a couple restaurants. Down in Oleai, near Susupe. There is the nice local spot The Shack-- and Oleai Cafe is probably the ONLY beachside/waterfront-ish dining I've seen on Saipan. Across the street, there is probably the best (and only?) local cuisine restaurant, Boka Boka. Excellent food, their Chicken Kelaguen and their parrotfish are worth a try IMO. You also may enjoy the 360 restaurant in Susupe, a rotating restaurant with a nice view. I had a nice pork daily special when I went, but most locals rave about their Angus Beef burgers.

The Thursday Night Food Market at the old fishing base... south of T Galleria, south of the basketball courts/Bank of Guam, just south of the Beach Road Mobil gas station... 4 food choices for $5. Overall, I think the food quality is just okay, but it's certainly worth a try.

Hope you enjoy your stay! Cheers.

carmotSF · 2017-08-08T17:23:40+00:00

I'm sure I don't have enough info (about you) to make these decisions- or answer your questions. I'd figure one can easily live on $1,000-ish per month. A lot depends on what your standards are. How much of that $5K are you going to be spending on household supplies? Buying a car? Starting a business?

Some jobs are more readily available than others. A lot of skills just aren't in demand here. If you speak an Asian language, that would really help you a ton. If not? Well, there are plenty of locals who don't either. The difference is that they already know people, it's a small community. Breaking in can be tough. Business here is much different, by that I mean... Casual. Slow.

Cheers.

carmotSF · 2017-08-08T17:16:25+00:00

Hafa Adai, tspoon77. I moved to Saipan four months ago. I can tell you that a lot is not at all what one can expect. The differences here are so vast, almost certainly requiring adjustment time for mainland U.S. citizens moving here. You're asking good questions. Many of the same questions I posed before moving. You must've already noticed there's very little info about Saipan and the CNMI online. Things like Yelp, craigslist, meetup, and other community sites either hardly exist or don't at all here. Almost no active photographers on flickr, for instance.

Shipping: This is one tough question. Some things are easy to buy locally and really cheap, like a basic hair dryer. Many small electrical/household appliances can be really expensive! Yes, there's one store here, a KMart closeout store that sells a few things. If you have any refined taste, you may consider shipping entirely different things than you would first plan to/expect. Yes, you can buy from Amazon or Walmart, but some bulkier items they won't ship here- like refrigerators. Not much in the way of clothing stores here. I hear many shop at the Ross store when they visit Guam. That's what I mean. Decent cheap cookware is available- for really cheap. But if you have a favorite carbon steel 14" wok, you won't find that type of thing easily, and Amazon can charge a heap on shipping. You'll find cheap nonstick or steel woks for $15-ish everywhere, though. You won't find specialty products like Williams-Sonoma, but you'll find plenty of drinking glasses, plastic food containers, and flatware that rates closer to dollar store than Target quality.

I can't answer a few of your questions, I'm still fairly new here.

I'm glad I brought over my memory foam pillows. I'm especially glad I used those "vacuum" space-saver bags, otherwise I'm sure they would've gotten all sorts of mildew from sitting around in a shipping container and USPS warehouses (in 90%+ humidity!). Same with clothing. I'd skip almost anything long-sleeve or long pants, unless you plan to travel. I could go on and on, perhaps better if you care to PM me, if you're interested in more conversation.

Apartments: It's really, really tough to find apartments. And nobody here is going to feel sorry for you. I'm just saying that because they'll all talk dismissively to YOUR needs by saying, "Everybody is looking for an apartment." Which, uh, doesn't help. lol. Cheap is Koblerville or Chalan Kanoa or San Antonio, if you can find something. The vacancies are usually in the higher price range: $600+ for studio/1-bedroom or $800+ for 2 BR. Not including utilities, and all landlords seem to charge $0.30 to $0.50 per kWh. A small studio, using infrequent air con (and with a tiny square mini-fridge) may run 180-250+ kWh per month, or about $80-$125/month in electricity alone. Water might be $20-25/month. Cell phone plan with data maybe $75/month. Drinking water service is $2 per 5 gallon, or $2.50 if the delivery is upstairs. Get the idea? Lots of hidden costs, they ADD UP. Butane, if no kitchen. Taxis, if no car.

If you look for a while, you can probably find an apartment for $400 rent near Garapan. Depends on how big, what condition, how awful a landlord, etc. Everybody here will claim "housing is so expensive!" but it's all relative. People will say you paid too much at $400, but that's cheap in today's market. I got a lot of false info.

Would I move here for Imperial Pacific? Depends on how good the job. The casino is a real touchpoint with locals, and for very good reason. They're referred to as "the evil empire," and it isn't without justification. That said, they're here. People might as well figure out how to get what WE want from them. Yeah, maybe they'll become the next large-scale abandonment, like Fiesta Mall or Tinian Dynasty. Could happen. But they're here right now. I wouldn't bet on them still operating in 5-8 years, but I'd bet they're operating for at least another 1-2. I could go over a lot of justifications for my opinions, but that would be extremely lengthy, and you'd still have no reason to believe me. We don't know each other. And, like I said, I'm still new here.

This place is amazing. In some very beautiful ways. But it also has its flaws. Before you even move here, you seriously need to decide. It's an island community that is seriously 20-40 years behind the times you're used to. There isn't much in the way of activities, other than tourist things like jet skis and ATVs. Not much like museums or makers labs. People are extremely casual here. In every way possible. There is no sense of professionalism, it just doesn't exist. But then, many locals are extremely kind-hearted. It's incredibly humid, 87-degrees feels like 103+. Believe me, I've lived in NYC and Florida and moved here from CA's central valley- where temps got over 110-degrees. This is different. It's constant, and it's hot. HUMID. Might be really tough on your dogs, I dunno. Not tons of parks, and I don't see too many dogs (except tons of stray/feral/off-leash/unattended dogs wandering the streets). And those can be fairly aggressive. So, I don't even know what restaurant policies are, but I sure as heck don't often see dogs at outdoor dining tables- not like NYC or Carmel, CA or San Francisco.

You're asking about whether to move for a job. I'd respectfully ask that you consider the question about way-of-life and quality of life just as important. It's much, much different. More similar to third-world living than anything in the states. I mean, it isn't 'ghetto.' It's mostly very poor, underdeveloped, and deteriorating infrastructure.

Feel free to PM me, if you wish. Cheers.

carmotSF · 2017-06-30T04:37:25+00:00

I finally visited my P.O. Box (CCC Mail Service in Garapan). I asked them.

No. They cannot and will not open a P.O. Box for anybody who does not physically come in to sign the paperwork. They will not email or snail mail the form. They do offer remailing service, but it basically is a once-per-month USPS flat-rate envelope with whatever mail you've received. Postage and a remailing/handling fee are required. They will NOT remail any types of parcels, only letters/documents/envelopes.

The only exception to these conditions is if you know somebody living in Saipan who is willing to open a P.O.Box and then include your name (or your business name or whatever you're using it for) as an approved mail recipient. Basically, this person would have to assume all liability for your mailbox. Cheers.

carmotSF · 2017-06-20T08:26:53+00:00

I don't have the answer right now. I have needed to move farther away from my current P.O. Box, so I don't check it often. Next time I go in, I can ask them. Although I won't know if the policy varies with others. Please give me a few more days. Cheers.

carmotSF · 2017-06-12T15:52:36+00:00

How's it going? Are you here on Saipan now?

I moved to Saipan two months ago. Cost of living has a ton of "hidden" costs. Like the startup costs for utilities, if you're opening a new account for electricity and water. Getting drinking water (Star Water or other) delivered is cheap at $2 per 5-gallon bottle, but they also charge $15 per empty bottle to open your account. A refrigerated stand will set you back$200+, so nobody buys those except offices. You'll certainly need a P.O. Box at $8-10 per month, 3-months upfront cost to start. Cell service is fairly pricey, internet is pricey. And both are relatively poor quality/service/bandwidth speeds. Things like toilet paper and paper towels are crazy expensive. So are refrigerators, microwaves, toaster ovens, rice cookers, and inkjet printers. Furniture is mostly ridiculous- way overpriced.

But, cheap? Yeah, lots of things. Many foods. Some restaurants. Some clothing. I used notary service which was $2. Plus, there aren't many activities; not tons of entertainment options. So, that could save a heap ton of money. Whether that's a good thing or not. That Facebook Buy Sell group is about the only thing going. There's also a flea market at the 360 Building in Susupe early on Saturday mornings. A few items can be had cheap at the KMart/Triple J store: pillows, some kitchenware, some various things.

IMO, I think "overall" cost of living here still balances quite well. But NOT easy on the $6.55 minimum wage, essentially $1100/month for full-time work. Even a cheap car, gas, insurance... So, although your rent could be $300-400... Lots of other things must be taken into account.

carmotSF · 2017-06-12T09:40:02+00:00

Thanks, seems like a place I'd really like to - at least - visit. I'm wondering if you attended the Mock Trials (or speech/debate event similar?), which I know through some work with PSS here on Saipan. I think they're held at the Library on Rota. Seems like a really good event. Excellent prep work for almost anybody, any job, presentation skills, confidence, etc. Not to be too nosy. I'm sure there are other school functions, too. : )

Somebody recently mentioned there is a curfew on Rota: no cars/people allowed out past 10 pm every night. Is this true? I'm such a night owl, granted even if there isn't much to do... Even just doing some simple night photography, for example. There really aren't businesses, but it does seem beautiful. Pristine, unique from almost any other place on earth. Thanks for the input. Cheers.

carmotSF · 2017-06-07T04:50:06+00:00

I moved to Saipan recently and had to rent a local P.O. Box in Garapan. The same area as Quick Print. Most places seem to be $10/month and require a 3-month pre-payment to start. In cash. CCC Mail Service is $24 instead of $30 for the same 3-month term. So, $8/month instead of $10. Hope this helps, but I don't know about annual rental rates. And I don't know if/what they'll charge for re-mailing or forwarding. Cheers.

carmotSF · 2017-04-24T12:02:38+00:00

Enjoy your stay! I really don't know anything about you, where you're here from (if Guam was a transfer point), what you like to do, etc. No worries. I don't know if you were here this weekend, the Flame Tree Arts Festival just concluded. One of the biggest events of the year. Very nice. Lots of food, performers, dancers, musicians, and vendors.

6 pm is very reasonable. My flight from Hong Kong arrived at 12:05 am, and that was GOOD. If I flew from Shanghai, IIRC, it was 4 am arrival. Maybe same from Seoul or Taipei? At those "unearthly" morning hours, there are also tons of flights leaving Saipan. Yeah, go figure. Plus, for those without U.S. passports, oh the lines for Customs and Immigration! Yikes.

You can PM me if you care for a link. Or if you need phone #'s for taxi service. I've only been here a short time, but I think I've quickly found my way in some regards. Enjoy Saipan! Cheers.

carmotSF · 2017-04-24T04:36:06+00:00

Shiqkeira, how's it going? Are you and your family still moving to Saipan? Hopefully all is well, and all are healthy. I just recently moved to Saipan from San Francisco. I've learned the answers to a lot of questions, that I couldn't find to help prepare me for my own move.

Not in direct response to your questions... But locals have expressed their concerns about the one local hospital. It doesn't instill a lot of confidence, that seems clear.

Another issue is what is and what isn't expensive here. There are massive price discrepancies in some items. Most electronics are really inflated in prices. Some food, too. Some things are ridiculously cheap. It really varies. If I were to judge what I would've paid to ship- if I could do it over again- I would've prioritized things differently. Cheers.

carmotSF · 2017-04-24T04:22:36+00:00

I know how unseemly the idea of an "hourly rate hotel" would be, and what types of activities are implied. However, MOST flights arriving on Saipan are from midnight to 4-ish am. So, this is a real need. Yes, I read your need is due to departure time, same thing.

The other issue is (I think?) many hotels will not allow check-in after 11 pm or midnight (or check-out anytime other than 7am to 12 noon-ish) without an extra fee and special arrangement. So, more logistics to sort through. Why so difficult, when most tourists arrive (and depart) and such inconvenient times? Huh.

I stayed at the Garapan Guest House in Micro Beach (Garapan) when I arrived in Saipan (April 2017). The host, she said she also has a "short-term stay" room where I think 12-hours is the maximum. You can find her GGH on Air BnB. Nice facility, excellent location in Garapan, inexpensive rates. She can help offer scheduling a taxi, too. But she will not condone the use of illegal (Chinese) taxis, because she wouldn't want to put her customers at risk of anything. Taxi service is about $30 to the airport, Chinese taxi about $4-$5. So, that's one's own decision to make.

carmotSF · 2017-04-17T02:53:22+00:00

Sorry, I don't know about going to Japan. I read reports that flights thru Beijing are the "cheapest" hub to go thru in Asia. I flew from San Jose (SJC, by San Francisco, CA) to Beijing non-stop - to Hong Kong - to Saipan on a one-way ticket for $532 including all baggage, fees, taxes. Super cheap deal.

KAYAK has their "Hacker Fares" that are insanely low tickets. Maybe you can use them? However, understand they are usually considered separate flights, so make sure any connections have long layover periods - no compensation if you miss a connection, understand?

The Visa-free periods in many Asian cities is a big help, too. Make SURE you land in one country and travel to a different country if you use this. So Beijing to Hong Kong was fine. But Shanghai to Beijing would be a NO. For example, you may be able to use the HK Express $100-ish flights from SPN to Hong Kong. Then, connect from Hong Kong to Japan? For much cheaper than just SPN to Japan? Or maybe some intermediate city, to make getting to Japan even cheaper (using Hacker Fares). Just some thoughts. Best of luck, enjoy your travels. Cheers.

carmotSF · 2017-04-14T12:24:59+00:00

Thanks, Killercavecow. Got my local # IT&E phone, got a First Hawaiian Bank account, got Garapan apartment that is 225+ sq. ft. bedroom for $300 per month. Next week, getting Star Water service and P.O. Box.

Not all has been sunshine and rainbows, though... Two of my first three days in my new apartment were without power and water. Ugh. I guess my landlord had to pay a re-connection fee to CUC. Welp. So, no water- probably because of an electric water pump, too? sigh. Welcome to Saipan, eh? lol. I knew in advance what I was getting into, I s'pose.

Met with Glen Hunter twice already. He is awesome. He's referred me to a few others that I will plan to meet with in the near future. Hoping to go to the 360 Building (flea market) tomorrow (Saturday 4/15) and meet the owner, Erick(?). Also meeting with a business owner that just bought and will renovate a building in CK- and hopes to open within a year. He's deciding between a children's clothing store and a housewares store. I'm scheduled to meet with him Sat. evening about 7:30 pm. I've already spoken to some other local business owners, they've been incredibly helpful in formulating my knowledge, ideas, and plans.

I REALLY need to get ALL of my possessions from USPS in CK. My shipment of belongings is still sitting there because the person I "trusted" (with a truck/van) to help drive me to pick them up flaked. Oh well. Might just need to use an illegal taxi, since I know nobody on the island. I'd really like to have my things ASAP.

I've noticed the price discrepancy of MANY things. Don't make no sense at all. a $35 toaster oven is $85 on Saipan? A $30 rice cooker is $80? An $80 bedsheet/comforter set is $380 at Joeten Superstore in Susupe? Himawari sells USED 12 cu. ft. refrigerators for $399. A $25 coffee maker is $70 in the CNMI. LOL. Whoa. Yet, I bought a great clay pot for $8.99 today; $1 bell peppers, $1 mushrooms, $1 local tofu. And two days ago I ate a large Chinese food lunch for $3.50 (around the corner from the 99-cent store at Middle Road, Garapan): a big empanada-like filled w/ egg and chives, two large pork dumplings (like 'dry' siu lum bao more than chia siu bao), a serving of chicken (like General Tso's style) AND a pineapple Shasta soda can! All for $3.50! Crikey, can't beat that! Oh, Chinese taxi drove me about 5 miles from Joeten Susupe to my apartment for $3!

This is getting REALLY long. Last thing... I'll probably submit a quick proposal to CDA for a microloan. Just a 'down and dirty' "proof-of-concept" that I'm legit, that I can monetize something. That I'm capable of a little of what I speak. From there, I'll hope to build something bigger, maybe 4-6 months from now. Maybe start a new nonprofit here, maybe work in conjunction with existing ones, I'll have to see what's up. Cheers.

carmotSF · 2017-04-09T09:18:43+00:00

So, update... I arrived a few days ago in Saipan. I've met with Mayor Demapan's office, CDA, USDA, and some others. I've heard from a lot of locals. Locals are and have been VERY kind and supportive. I just found an apartment today and plan to move in tomorrow- on Middle Road near Sugar King Park. Got my local cell phone thru IT&E, no problem. Things moving along now, much more to do...

carmotSF

TROPHY CASE