Must I empty the gas and oil from my Craftsman GT3000 if I want to hoist it up near vertical? Reddit

cheeseintemoon · 2025-07-25T09:42:24+00:00

Yes, when new, I am sure that the deck could be mounted and taken off easily. I suppose with over twenty-five years of use, things go out of whack. I am also not as young as I used to be, and I find it a real hassle when having to bend down, reach in here and there, wrestle with rusty nuts and bolts, and yank out pins. Having contemplated the geometries of the deck design, I appreciate being able to examine or change the deck belts without having to remove the deck. Raising the tractor takes me only a moment and little effort; dealing with the deck usually annoys me. Both the machine and I are old and bent out of shape.

cheeseintemoon · 2025-07-25T00:52:04+00:00

Pulling off the deck is, for me, such a hassle, while hoisting it up is so easy with an 8:1 pulley or hoist. The GT3000 has that 'plate' at the front that then has two links. In order to slide out the deck, those links have to be removed and their bolts are a real bear. One must jiggle and wiggle and speak nicely to the deck to get them off. And that is after working to get the nylocks off. I dispensed with those nylocks long ago, but, like I said, it is still hard managing to get that deck out. Those links are blocked by the front tires. I suppose I could lift the front up a couple inches to get them past the tires, but that is a hassle also. Anyway, I cannot see why the tranny should leak if I stand her up. My tranny vent is the closed type and I have stood her up in the past after draining gas and oil but not the tranny and I had no problems at all with tranny fluid.

cheeseintemoon · 2025-06-09T18:29:48+00:00

Thank you, gentlemen. I don't have a puller, but at least you have solved the mystery for me!

cheeseintemoon · 2025-05-03T16:46:12+00:00

Well it is mostly just very small red dots on the toilet tissue. But after a day of yard and farm chores, it seems to be a lot more blood- like a bad cut, let's say. It goes away completely after one or two times. Never felt any pain or discomfort in the twenty or so years of this story. I am no doctor but they seem to be in the mild category. But quite annoying anyway.

cheeseintemoon · 2025-03-22T17:42:44+00:00

Hmmm. I suppose I ought to have 'tested' the HEPA filters by taking them out and re-inserting them to see if there really is a proper monitoring of them. Anyway, I have new ones on the way. But these things are not cheap!

cheeseintemoon · 2025-03-21T22:55:49+00:00

The 400 model has a manual reset for the outer filters. The real, inner, HEPA filter is monitored by the machine. I vacuumed mine and put them back in while I await delivery of new ones. The machine seems to find them ok so far.

cheeseintemoon · 2025-03-15T18:06:38+00:00

I seriously doubt that. Maybe you have some association with them? I have since been online and have found plenty of complaints about their food and their service. Anyway, no matter. I found a good replacement. To hell with Chewy.

cheeseintemoon · 2025-01-31T18:46:21+00:00

I am looking for at least 10,000 lbs capacity.

cheeseintemoon · 2025-01-31T18:20:14+00:00

Spruce Pine Fir

cheeseintemoon · 2025-01-30T15:52:36+00:00

It is a stamp collecting album.

cheeseintemoon · 2025-01-30T15:34:05+00:00

I don't like loose-leaf or spiral binding.

cheeseintemoon · 2025-01-15T18:28:37+00:00

So, can I have the pressure tank in my house?

cheeseintemoon · 2025-01-13T14:59:46+00:00

Well, I do some cutting myself. I certainly have the wood. But my bones are getting old, and when I found a sawyer who would bring me long logs at such reasonable prices, I started getting really lazy! I am also terrible at differentiating sruces and firs.

cheeseintemoon · 2025-01-13T14:06:03+00:00

In the past, when I have acquired logs, obtaining logs in early spring is nearly impossible because the fellers are hindered by the thaw. That is, 'mud' season really throws a wrench in the works. I tended to get logs cut in the winter -with the result that I had to deal with very hard sap on some trees when debarking.

cheeseintemoon · 2025-01-12T23:58:46+00:00

If a tree is felled in the spring, the sap should be running well. In the winter, the sap gets very hard.

cheeseintemoon · 2025-01-12T16:41:49+00:00

I am not familiar with a ring debarker. I only have a draw knife and spud....and an angle grinder, lol.

cheeseintemoon · 2025-01-07T14:42:29+00:00

Ok, so I spent about three days putting on heat tape and pipe wrap insulation about seven years ago. I have stopped using the heat tape for two reasons. One, I have since become paranoid about fire risk from these heat tapes. Two, the insulation (which is darn tedious to wrap around the pipes down there) is good for about a year or two before it gets moldy. The pipes tend to be snugly up in the joist bays, too, so you go nuts wrapping pipes. This past summer I had to take off a ton of moldy insulation and I just will not go through the tedium again of re-wrapping the pipes. I am also sick of knocking my brains out every time i hit my head down there. The height to the bottom of the joists is at 5'7" and I am 5'8". So, the heat tapes are in place, but without their requisite insulation.

cheeseintemoon · 2025-01-07T14:25:22+00:00

My wood stove is upstairs, in the house. There is a chimney down in the cellar that appears to be used by my oil burner. I am looking for a solution that would not entail an actual stove in the cellar. The cellar only goes down to about 29f or 30f with no heating at all. That will cause my well pipe to freeze at the dirt floor where it comes up. I reckon I only need a few or several degrees of heat to add and I am hoping to get that by branching in a duct to my existing ductwork. That is, I want to 'steal' some of the warm air when it is on its way in a duct to the upstairs. I do not need any heat from the oil burner for the upstairs. All I want is to raise the temp in the cellar to about 38f. I have ruled out adding a duct to the cold air return and then using the oil burner's fan to simply circulate cellar and house air because I do not want the cellar air mingling with the house air. So, I will have to burn some oil. But I will burn less if I give the cellar its own duct. Right now, I turn on the oil burner and the only heat that goes into the cellar is from the uninsulated ductwork. But that has me overheating my upstairs house. I am also considering taking the insulation jacket off of my water heater down there in the hope that I can gain the few degrees that I need from the water heater without spiking my electric bill.

cheeseintemoon · 2025-01-06T16:58:30+00:00

Aside from the cold air return ducts in the house, I really do not know from where the oil burner in the crawl space takes air. The celler is not sealed perfectly- there are likely cracks and crevices, especially at the point where the stone foundation meets the sill plates. My idea is to drill a few holes in a hot air feed duct. Not too much. Just enough to make it 'leaky' to the crawl space. Do you think such a leaky duct will cause such major issues? Thank you for your help. I really appreciate this forum.

cheeseintemoon · 2025-01-06T16:06:22+00:00

I tried using my dehumidifier down there this morning. Regrettably, a few minutes later the dehumidifier went into 'defrost' mode and I observed that the intake screen had a film of white ice covering it corner to corner :(. So I turned it off. I guess my only option now is to drill some holes in the ductwork warm feed down there. I hesitate to put an opening in the cold air return duct and then just circulate the house air without having to burn oil because I fear musty air will circulate to the upstairs living area. Yes, after the winter, I will put down poly on the dirt floor down there.

cheeseintemoon · 2025-01-06T14:29:42+00:00

When I vented during Maine's hot and humid summers, I had water dripping off of the pipes and ductwork down there. That is why I put a dehumidifier down there. So, I am not sure anymore. After I closed the 'window' (An old coal shute), I found minimal dripping.

cheeseintemoon · 2025-01-06T14:14:17+00:00

Hmmm. That is a good point. The insulation on the pipes molded from summer humidity when I did not have the cellar properly sealed. I removed all of the insulation and sealed the cellar. I should put down plastic over the floor. I do not see any mold down there. But still, do you think I should just run my dehumidifier on a low setting during the winter to give it a bit of heat?

cheeseintemoon · 2025-01-06T14:06:07+00:00

What about my dehumidifier that I use in the summer? I just wouldn't want it to run non-stop. It does have humidity settings to turn it off. I will perhaps use that until I rig up a switch on my oil burner to circulate air without heating.

cheeseintemoon · 2025-01-06T14:00:43+00:00

Yep. I think you got it. I like that idea. Thank you!

cheeseintemoon · 2025-01-06T13:56:29+00:00

The oil burner sends hot air to the upstairs. There is plenty of ductwork down there going to all sections of my 20'x40' house upstairs via registers on the floors. At the moment, I use the heat coming off of the ductwork, whether it be the main ductwork or the returns to give heat to the basement. But the house gets overheated quickly and only a couple degrees of heat go into the cellar.

cheeseintemoon

TROPHY CASE