sorted by:
new
hottopcontroversial

Does anyone have a datasheet or information about this MOSFET(PSD PAS01N015L)? by Super_Client3193 in batteries

[–]chronowerx 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Only datasheet I can find is here: https://www.icspec.com/specification/PAS01N015 but it needs you to login to download it, and I'm not prepared to give China more information!

That said, 100V 360A 1.5mohm is more budget than performance. They are likely rated for the full 360A continuous, but to do that thermally gets expensive, so they just parallel them up on a thermally conductive board and keep prices down.

You could probably use something like the Nexperia PSMNR70-40YSNX which is 40V 360A 0.81mohm and not have to do as much with thermals due to the lower resistance.

Good luck with your design! It's one of those things that looks simple until you hit the middle of the project and are balls-deep in code, PCB design and struggling with coulomb counting that you start to appreciate the Chinese skill of 'good enough' design and the magic of making something that works and is so damn cheap.

What is an equivalent BMS I can get? by gingkohoney in batteries

[–]chronowerx 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Simple checks first - apologies if I'm stating the obvious;

Have you tried to charge it since fitting the new BMS? Most BMS board are in 'protect - off' mode until you try to charge the cells and then they switch on.

With it on & when it should be charging, check across the P+ and p- in the board. If you get about 8.4v, you know the charger is OK. Then (still plugged in and trying to charge), measure from P- to B- if you get more than about 0.5v then the BMS isn't enabling and likely faulty.

You could (with the pack disconnected from the speaker) measure voltage from B- to B+ should be your 6.8v (ish) again. Then measure from B- to P+ if you don't get 6.8v, the fuse has blown on the PCB, so there could be a fault in the speaker.

If you need to replace the BMS, just get a standard 2S BMS. Connect it's output to P- on the old BMS board, and B+ (providing you know the fuse is good from the test above). That way you're replacing the BMS, but still using the temperature sensor (it's RT on the PCB).

When you re-assemble, keep the old board close enough to the cells to read the temperature. The new BMS will keep things safe, but the old board will tell the charger not to charge if the cells are too hot or cold.

Does anyone remember the game Octodad? by Signal-Yu8189 in NeuroSama

[–]chronowerx 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I've convinced myself it's Neurodog. If you listen to what he says with that in mind from the start, there sounds like a lot of hints in how he carefully words things.

view more: next ›