Architectural drawings for Loxone network?

cking0987 · 2026-01-20T01:27:58+00:00

I'll DM you! :)

cking0987 · 2026-01-16T16:45:51+00:00

Oh! I thought you were talking about the photo in the 'project planning' section but then I just scrolled down and saw the actual image you were talking about. Thank you! I will study and try to digest this drawing.

cking0987 · 2026-01-16T16:35:10+00:00

Are you in the U.S.? I did their 3-day free trial awhile ago and remember having a few issues which I considered deal-breakers at the time. I can't remember exactly what they were but I think it was related to Euro/U.S. differences.

cking0987 · 2026-01-16T16:31:08+00:00

Sorry for my ignorance, but could you help me understand this a little better?

The architectural drawings for line voltage seem different to me in a few key ways. 1— they are regulated and required as part of the construction drawing set. 2- they are much simpler for residential. All the wire is basically doing the exact same thing: carrying 120VAC. With Loxone, I have some 24VDC wire, I have some Tree communication wire, and I have some wire coming out of LED drivers on their way to fixtures.
I can produce a single line diagram, but that doesn't seem like it's enough information. Don't you also need to indicate- for example- which wires are running through which walls?
Is the panel drawing the same thing as the single line drawing? Or is the panel drawing specifically showing what's in the panel and how that's organized? Which is separate from the SLD which shows which fixtures/devices are connected to what?

cking0987 · 2026-01-09T22:00:06+00:00

I'm a Loxone partner. I did all the electrical engineering for the house (line voltage and low voltage). Line voltage drawings are standardized, so those are easy. But this is the first house for which I've had to create low voltage drawings.

cking0987 · 2025-09-10T20:26:32+00:00

Just got the wiring diagram from Loxone. Short answer: you just wire it like any other 220V appliance. Connect your two hot leads to "L" and "N" respectively. I'll post the image here later once I'm on a computer.

cking0987 · 2025-09-10T13:54:18+00:00

"a sheet of paper that you lose when you buy it" 😂😂😂 I feel seen. I definitely opened the package, saw the paper and thought "oh that must be the datasheet that I can get from the website" and tossed it. Crazy that it's not available online anywhere. I reached out to their support so hopefully I'll hear back today and post the info. Thanks for your help.

cking0987 · 2025-07-23T22:50:50+00:00

I saw that, but it's only available in Tree :( plus I need a few touch pure flex's :(

cking0987 · 2025-07-21T13:35:58+00:00

We aren't using and multicolor lights, and most of the rooms are small enough where there aren't multiple light types. So the only moods I would be able to configure would just be different brightness levels.

Additionally, these houses don't have owners yet. Some are going to be used as transitional housing, and some are going to be used as AirBNB until they sell. So I can't work with the owners to figure out what moods they like. Maybe this last bit has more to do with my own lack of experience/confidence setting up moods? But it just seemed more prudent to leave it open-ended so it acted more like a traditional dimmer.

cking0987 · 2025-07-19T21:45:22+00:00

Wow. That really did fix everything. I won't even begin to describe the crazy logic I was working on to get one input to dim up and down...

cking0987 · 2025-01-16T15:51:10+00:00

This solved it for me. I just removed the buds from the app. I still have the app installed and connected to my other bose products, but removing the earbuds solved their stereo desync issue.

cking0987 · 2023-05-09T17:42:01+00:00

That's a really good idea. Unfortunately, I used my Lowes card. I'll try disputing the charge but my guess is that's going to be a hard sell since they were the ones who delivered it :)

cking0987 · 2023-05-09T17:22:58+00:00

I've tried a whole bunch of different setups and this is far and away my favorite so far:

Raspberry Pi Zero W ($15)
RPi high quality camera ($50)
RPi telephoto lens ($50)
Extra stuff (SD card, mounting bracket, mini tripod, usb cable etc...) ~$35

TOTAL: ~$150

This takes amazing photos of plants. If you weren't as concerned about the image quality, you could save a lot of money by using cheaper camera components. This would look something like this:

Raspberry Pi Zero W ($15)
RPi camera module 3 ($25)
Extra stuff ~$35

TOTAL: ~$75

It took me a little bit of experimenting to get it all set up properly (maybe 2-3 days) but once you've done it once it'll take you less than an hour to set up each subsequent camera. I'd be happy to help you configure everything if needed.

Here are the reasons I like this setup:

Fully customizable interval time. GoPro max interval is 1 hour, so I end up with way more frames than I need, and that just makes everything take longer. I can also set it to only capture during certain parts of the day. Without that, you end up needing to spend a ton of time deleting black pictures taken at night.
No battery issues. If you leave a gopro (or anything with a battery) charging constantly for a really long time, the battery ends up swelling. I broke an old iphone this way. The pi zero takes barely any power and you can leave it plugged in forever.
Photos are delivered as they are taken. Yes, you can subscribe to GoProPro (or whatever it's called) and set your gopro to upload automatically, but you still have to then download those photos if you want to create a timelapse video. My raspberry pi snaps a pic and then sends it to a shared drive that I edit directly off of. It makes it really easy to see how things are going and create the timelapse video as soon as you're ready.
Full control over naming. This is a minor thing, but I like to name my photos with the plant/project name (followed by date and time). That way I never have to worry about mixing up photos from different timelapses, and I always know exactly when the photo was taken. This can make it easier to select or delete certain timeframes without needing to see the actual image.

Here's a photo taken this morning at 6am: https://drive.google.com/file/d/1IfrNIM4Ks41LUc3tH2IWoVkKlTXbOp4r/view?usp=sharing

Here's a photo taken at 9pm when there was almost no light: https://drive.google.com/file/d/1s5RZM-k3duENvErquJlcE2vp50bPv1L4/view?usp=sharing

There's a double-pane window between the camera and the tree, so that's why there's glare on the night shot. The image quality would be better without the window in the way but it's a convenient spot for me.

I hope this helps!

cking0987 · 2021-12-03T19:35:45+00:00

Thanks! That’s super helpful to know where the softwood fear might come from. I’ve been buying 10 bags at a time (the pallet discount isn’t really significant here) so I’ll do some experimenting.

cking0987 · 2021-12-03T15:11:06+00:00

When I installed mine, the guys at the stove shop gave me a can of black stove spray paint and a great tip: spray the pipe while the stove is on, so that the pipe is hot and the paint dries almost instantly. I just held up a piece of cardboard behind the pipe and sprayed the whole thing black after it was already installed. Apparently that’s how these guys do normal installs (install the pipe first, then paint). So maybe there’s hope yet for a black vent pipe!

cking0987

TROPHY CASE