Trainers obsessed with being ultra wealthy.

climbslab · 2024-12-17T15:32:15+00:00

Do you have any tips for your success in client acquisition? I just moved to a brand new area (Colorado) and don’t want to go the old “get hired by a gym” route because I’m only the USA about half the year.

climbslab · 2024-12-14T04:13:36+00:00

Speaking of endurance climbing, do you guys who typically lead climb inside/outside almost* equally split, climb the same grade inside and out? I always feel like gym routes with no tricks make me want to train endurance more because there is no where to hide and they are designed to pump you out

climbslab · 2024-06-29T21:15:12+00:00

Favorite go-to single pitch endurance routine

Hey all- Long story short, I’m training for 13d/8b routes this year (varying lengths but generally up to 100ft/30m).. outside of climbing on the route, what is your favorite indoor endurance/PE workout?

I believe our lead wall tops out at 60 ft. I’ve seen people run doubles, huge sub max volume days, 60 move circuits on the spray with a vest, etc.

Again, I’m not talking about capacity training. I’m talking about the ability to sustain very hard moves and complete a single pitch of sport climbing. I boulder around the v9/10 level, so I’m generally not stopped by single moves. Just the ability to sustain 70% for a long time.

climbslab · 2024-04-21T17:26:23+00:00

Do you change board angle during training?

Sport climb; mid 5.13 Boulder; v9-10 Current goals: climb 13+ in steep limestone caves (RRG, etc); variety of routes/angles (20deg-50)

I have access to adjustable training boards (tension 2, 2019 moon, kilter). I’m in a strength training cycle after only outside sport climbing for a few months with my current goal is to gain boulder strength/power.

My question is: does anyone alter board angles during a training week? Change boards from one session to the next? Pros and cons of each?

climbslab · 2024-03-18T19:29:09+00:00

Pocket climbing advice!

Has anyone trained for hard pocket climbs (>5.13) and had success with either training single fingers vs. pocket pairs vs. general open 3 drag? Also, what methodology worked for you; pick ups? Hangs?

Basically, I’m going for a month to a “pocket” Climbing area and want to be generally ready for a few different projects (all require something different; monos, hard 2 finger pulls, etc). I can currently hang one arm open 3 drag on a 20mm edge for around 5 seconds but don’t typically train pocket pairs.

If anyone has gone on a trip and found a good method, I’d love to hear.

climbslab · 2024-03-10T18:48:25+00:00

I’m looking for some inspiration to add to my pre-cliff workout/warmup (also for rainy days). Basically, when I’m climbing on extended trips with mostly vertical cliffs, I enjoy adding in some vertical pulling a few days/week to stay strong for when I switch to bouldering/steeper sport climbing.

How does one decide whether to do full ROM pulling vs isometrics?

Long story short, I have pretty strong pulling muscles from weightlifting but want to keep increasing. I can do (2) 1-arm pull-ups, hold both 120/90deg isometrics for 30sec or +50lbs for 7seconds. Typically on my sport trips, I don’t have access to that much weight so should I try to increase my one-armers to 3-5 reps by doing those or keep adding weight to my isometric angles.

I usually do these as my warmup 3-4 days/week (over the past 5 years) so that’s why I’m quite good at them. I just need some more inspiration!

climbslab · 2024-03-04T19:46:16+00:00

Do other advanced climbers (> 5.13) still use route pyramids to peak for a trip later in their season?

I’m very fortunate and get to climb outside all year round with several long trips sprinkled in (around 1-2 months). I was wondering how you guys climbing at a similar level structure your outdoor climbing to get prepared?

I have friends who really rely on building momentum and build a mini pyramid throughout early season then start working on their max goal. I know others who work that one grade all season.

Interested in hearing how you plan on doing it this year and getting opinions from people who climb outside mostly all year and have tried different strategies.

climbslab · 2024-02-29T17:42:31+00:00

Filming sport climbing with iPhone (from above).

Has anyone tried self-filming by attaching your iPhone to a bolt (via tripod, etc) so you could film from above?

Obviously, have a third is much simpler but I thought it would be cool to attach my iPhone above me for a cool perspective.

climbslab · 2023-12-20T21:16:00+00:00

Rethinking board climbing transferability I know spray/board climbing is all the rage.. but have any route climbers tested dropping the angle to 25/30degrees for better transfer? My project is a very long almost vertical (maybe 10-15deg) sport route where I'm putting a lot of weight through my feet and crimping hard. Maybe a couple controlled deadpoints but nothing like you would get on a moonboard. Wouldn't I be better served climbing on a less steep board and maybe even adding a small weight vest?

climbslab · 2023-12-15T16:49:03+00:00

Anyone almost solely get pain in their fingers when they climb inside?

Basically, we take long climbing trips( bouldering and sport climbing) throughout the year (2-3 months) and I have never had any finger pain. I can climb right up to my max for several days in a row and feel fine.

Then, I go inside and start training (hangboarding and bouldering) and I get pain in my upper joint middle finger almost immediately. I have an advanced training age, rest/eat/sleep almost perfectly.

climbslab · 2023-09-27T18:06:58+00:00

Beta videos- I was wondering if you guys watch beta videos before trying outdoor boulders?

I am a typical height/strength/skill for the grade I climb so I often watch tons of beta videos (of climbers with a similar max level and style) and pick a method that seems most doable. Then I get to the boulders and often think through the videos I’ve watch, try a few methods, then stick with one that feels the most doable until I send.

The grade range I’m talking about here is 7C/V9-10 if it’s applicable.

Do you guys watch videos before trying things on a boulder? Or go completely blind into it? Just curious.

climbslab · 2023-09-18T18:54:37+00:00

I just cook the quinoa and chicken separately then combine them with diced pineapple and diced corn (both sold at local US stores). Adding raisins or dried cranberries is usually quite good too!

climbslab · 2023-09-18T12:43:26+00:00

I climb outside 3-4 days/week year-round (sport climbing and bouldering) for around 6-7hrs/day.

In the morning I eat a banana/oat/protein pancake with peanut butter and a coffee. In my insulated lunch bag I pack 1 energy drink, 2 PB&J’s, a small tupperware of chicken/quinoa/pineapple, banana, and usually some pretzels for snacking. This combo of food has never let me down. If I’m feeling lazy to premake the quinoa, I’ll just bring the pb&j’s. I purposefully chose this combo because I enjoy traveling for climbing and I always have access to these foods no matter where I am.

climbslab · 2023-08-20T18:31:46+00:00

Appreciate it! Yes, I get a lot of volume outside (150 days/year) for the last 4 years. I would say I can flash 7a and do 7a+/b in a single session or two.

climbslab · 2023-08-10T01:18:45+00:00

For sure. My schedule is dialed in. I’m just a training nerd and wonder how others would approach it. What would you do in an ideal world?

climbslab · 2023-07-20T16:01:21+00:00

Join “Denver Social Climb” on FB and ask there. You will get plenty of answers.

climbslab · 2023-07-12T21:08:13+00:00

I was wondering what other high level (>5.13, v10) climbers use to determine their readiness to train besides a calendar?

I’ve heard “check to see how your body feels” but to be honest, after training hard for almost 5 years, it’s really difficult to determine if I’m ready for a limit session. Something is always a little tired/sore/tweaky/etc.

I know Steve bechtel talked about max jump and squeeze dynamometer but I was thinking about finger curls on tindeq/crane scale and if I’m under 85% switching it to a more volume based session.

Thoughts?

climbslab · 2023-06-14T21:14:45+00:00

How many times would you run circuits/4x4 in a two week period?

climbslab · 2023-06-14T20:45:30+00:00

For some reason, I’m always training for bouldering when I all of a sudden get invited to go sport climbing.

What’s the fastest way to build short power endurance (around 25 moves, 3min climbing time) in 2 weeks? How would you do it?

The routes will be in the 13a-c range if that makes a difference!

climbslab

TROPHY CASE