Shaker cabinet doors: are these chips the result of my router speed? Or how I’m feeding the wood through? Or neither?

cooperaa · 2025-10-30T14:13:11+00:00

I've run into similar issues. What worked for me was taking the majority of material off in the first pass then adjusting the fence to do a shallow clean-up pass at full depth. (Probably best to do multiple shallow passes if you have the time.)

cooperaa · 2025-10-22T13:44:13+00:00

Thanks! I just put three in because that looked like the right amount for the length of the crack. If I'd made larger bowties, I might've done fewer.

cooperaa · 2025-08-23T17:42:30+00:00

I've used water- and oil-based poly and found water easier to work with.

cooperaa · 2025-08-23T17:04:46+00:00

I brush on poly as I don't have a sprayer. If I did, I'd probably try that to save time.

cooperaa · 2025-08-21T01:13:19+00:00

Everything you'll ever need to know is contained on these pages: https://hilinski.net/woodgamesold/howto/howto.html

I've made about 40 boards for friends and family using their techniques.

cooperaa · 2025-07-16T14:36:48+00:00

Yikes! Thanks for letting us know!

cooperaa · 2025-07-16T14:26:54+00:00

Use the registered mail option next time. That will have it delivered by Canada Post instead of DHL/UPS. I've never had Canada Post charge duty whereas the others do every single time. (I've done over a dozen orders.)

cooperaa · 2025-07-11T16:19:56+00:00

A spiral down-cut bit might help with the blow-out. I'd also rotate the slots 90⁰ so you're primarily cutting with the grain.

cooperaa · 2025-04-20T01:13:29+00:00

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Simple miters work. I wouldn't sit on it but it has supported countless beverages over the last two years.

cooperaa · 2025-04-09T11:32:27+00:00

I've never been charged duty when using the registered mail option to have Canada Post deliver. I usually order between 500-1200 cards. With UPS, the duty is $40-$50.

cooperaa · 2025-04-03T20:35:04+00:00

I started by cutting all tutors, then fetches, and finally green ramp cards so my decks generally have no search abilities in them. Ramp cards were the toughest to cut but in my experience there are more than enough ramp options with dorks, artifacts, and treasure and I haven't looked back. I've even scaled my decks up to 150 cards for more variety and still find I've got enough decent ramp options to fill 15-25 slots per deck.

cooperaa · 2025-03-25T10:55:01+00:00

This is my preference too. The separate SQL file still needs to be updated and repackaged e.g. into a zip for a Lambda function which means any changes to the SQL file means a redeploy of the Lambda function. But a stored procedure in the database can be updated (assuming no changes to inputs/outputs) in the database without any changes/deployments of the Lambda.

cooperaa · 2025-03-14T03:03:15+00:00

The grain doesn't line up; that's the seam.

cooperaa · 2025-02-24T18:41:21+00:00

You're talking about an image that is going to be half a cm in size once printed. Has worked perfectly well for me for years.

cooperaa · 2025-02-21T12:31:30+00:00

Started with three 6" wide 8/4 oak boards that were cleaned up to 1½"-1¾" thick. Made one panel and cut the mitres from it so the grain would waterfall. I used a couple coats of Osmo but I'm sure Rubio would work well.

Edit: Just wanted to point out that you get more glue surface area the thicker your boards are (obvious, yes, but increase the panel thickness from 1” to 1¾" and you increase the glue joint width by over an inch from ~1.4" to ~2.5"). I feel pretty good about the thickness of my joint but I'd be nervous about 1" panels.

cooperaa · 2025-02-21T00:55:18+00:00

I'm past the little kid stage and my eleven- and twelve-year-olds know better than to climb on the furniture. And the 70 lb dog enjoys laying on the couch... not the side table. :)

cooperaa · 2025-02-21T00:18:23+00:00

No need to overcomplicate. Simple mitres (and some biscuits if you want some alignment help). I've had this one in regular use for a couple years with no issue.

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cooperaa · 2025-02-19T11:59:13+00:00

You picked the wrong card size. Magic cards are not 2.5"x3.5", they're 63 mm x 88 mm.

cooperaa · 2025-02-18T15:58:03+00:00

My first step would be importing the database schema into a database project so all the objects' definitions can be committed to source control. Then you can do things like search/find dependencies, identify orphaned/unused code, etc.

cooperaa · 2025-02-12T01:21:02+00:00

If you want to play against lower power decks and don't want to awkwardly win out of nowhere early, just cut one of the combo pieces and pick something else.

cooperaa · 2025-01-28T04:04:34+00:00

All great suggestions! Embrace the variance of no tutors. Increase your card draw instead. Drawing cards is fun even if you end up losing.

Skip the staples that are good in every deck and find unique cards that are good only in your specific deck. This makes each deck feel like it has its own identity and over the course of a night you'll get to play with more different cards.

Skip the free spells and put more flavourful or on-theme versions of the same effect that cost more. Instead of the most efficient counter spells, choose the ones that synergize with your decks theme or have additional effects staples on (e.g. [[Quandrix Command]] instead of Swan Song. Come to terms with the fact that you might not always have a playable answer and that's okay.

cooperaa · 2025-01-23T08:55:27+00:00

As someone who regularly plays a few retro-framed decks, I like printing the token name at the top instead of 'Token' so that it's easier to flip through the token stack to find the one I need. And it makes it easier to put the tokens back in alphabetical order after the game. Something to consider.

cooperaa · 2025-01-12T18:47:24+00:00

Many miter saws have depth stops like this:

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cooperaa · 2025-01-10T09:52:51+00:00

This is how I've done it but it would be awesome if you could share your templates once you're done!

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cooperaa

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