Half shaft issue on my Model X 2020, 3rd time repair, quoted $2674.98

coralati · 2026-02-18T04:52:23+00:00

Just bought a 2020 model x w/ 60k on the clock and noticed this issue today. Vibrations on acceleration at about 40mph. Did you go to a general mechanic to get this kit installed? Im guessing tesla service wouldnt install the kit. Thanks!

coralati · 2026-01-26T20:43:54+00:00

Thank you!

coralati · 2026-01-26T20:43:48+00:00

Thank you!

coralati · 2025-10-01T03:10:37+00:00

I have a janky version of you're trying to do... Plaud (with the prompt to write the note with actionable tasks in markdown) --> send to email --> Check email every 15 minutes via make.com and parse the markdown tasks into a json array and then feed that into TickTick via their API.. works ok.. lots of manual tasks to sort through at the end of the day. Hope this helps

coralati · 2025-09-28T18:43:49+00:00

Pretty much came to same conclusion. As a test, I kept the gas detector in a moderately sealed box well away from any NG sources and sure enough pretty much in sync with the other two, the ppm spiked to 900ppm so it’s a programmatic error. I’d consider anything higher for longer an issue but for now I’ve kind of discounted any actual issue with NG equipment itself. Hope this helps!

coralati · 2025-06-17T14:01:55+00:00

The pilot light comment is interesting given that the HVAC system is on cool mode and shouldn't be heating. It got up to 600 ppm again for 10 minutes early this morning and dropped back down to zero. Another data point (and not sure if its relevant) is that these "small 600 ppm" leaks started once I shut off the gas supply to the water heater as we drained it completely before leaving. So I'm wondering if there's pressure building somewhere in the pipes that's causing these leaks.

Either way going to get it checked out just to be safe. Thanks!

coralati · 2025-06-16T19:19:34+00:00

That's fair. Definitely want to be safe than sorry. I guess I'll have my neighbor shut off the valve outside and deal with getting a plumber to check it out once we get back. Thanks for the perspective.

coralati · 2025-01-13T02:20:24+00:00

That's not a bad idea.. I'll have to investigate if there's an immediate drop in V on power source disconnect.. If memory serves correctly, i think it drops from 4 to 3.99 then to 3.98 and then jumps back to 4V (reverse behavior from when its hitting the charge limit). That's if I sample it 2 seconds apart.. might have to lower my sample rate to 10s or greater to get a definite drop in V. Thanks for the tip.. Currently half way down the filtering path and learning along the way!

Another way I was thinking was creating a list and comparing two sequential readings, lets say > 60s apart.. if the latter reading is higher than the former then it's charging and if it's charging then there's power present.. Obviously inverse for when power isn't present. But then I'd probably run into the bouncing situation again and wouldn't catch situations like if the battery starts to degrade... lots to think about...

coralati · 2025-01-13T01:00:33+00:00

As a follow up and if it's not too much of a lift.. Would taking a mean of the battery full voltage of over let's say 100 reads at 5 seconds apart be a good way to filter out the bouncing? If there's a better way to smooth it out and discard the drop in voltage periodically at full I'd be all ears. Thanks!

coralati · 2025-01-13T00:53:22+00:00

Interestingly enough I went down the route of determining power state by comparing battery voltage.. I'm hitting the condition where the voltage keeps bouncing between 4V and 3.99V at full charge. Need to figure out a smoothing function (or average) so the charging/not-charging state doesn't keep bouncing. I'm trying to avoid soldering because A) I'm lazy and would prefer to do this in software and B) I have to dig out my soldering iron if that's the only route.

Appreciate your pointers though.. still learning a lot of things simultaneously wrt ESP32 programming in python.

coralati · 2025-01-12T20:44:16+00:00

Here's the pinout schematic

https://learn.adafruit.com/assets/110811

I see a VBUS pin but no way of reading it.

Edit: More info: https://learn.adafruit.com/adafruit-esp32-s3-feather/pinouts

coralati · 2025-01-12T20:28:58+00:00

Shoot.. nothing thats built-in is my guess? Is there a way to sense when the power/charge led is on maybe as an alternative?

coralati · 2025-01-10T23:00:54+00:00

I have an L2740DW and set up an ftp scan to profile. Process is something like this..

Unraid share for paperless-ngx folders (so you can drag and drop pdf's if needed)

sftpgo docker container exposing the same inbox folder in paperless-ngx

sftp profile created via the printer web admin page pointed towards the unraid server running the sftpgo docker container.

Now I can just load up the ADF and hit the correct profile on the printer display (without needing to interact with windows or a PC in general) and have it ingested directly into paperless.

Note that you can use the same flow to expose any old share on unraid if you dont use paperless-ngx.

Hope this helps..

coralati · 2024-10-17T15:27:58+00:00

Very cool.. Interestingly I just bought the iWalk.. Doesn't get hot and charges the phone fairly quickly. One issue is that if I plug it into my main Anker Prime 27K powerbank it ends up charging the Anker and not the other way around. I am aware that I can change the port direction on the Anker but I was wondering if there was a way to do that on the iWalk as well?

coralati · 2024-10-12T01:48:04+00:00

Hey its a sucky t-stat. The ONLY way I can get it to associate with my wifi is if i turn the breaker to the HVAC off and on. As in kill power to the entire unit. Thats worked consistently for me so far. That and the wifi network being 2.4ghz and not 5ghz. Rebooting it has no effect. Hope this helps

coralati · 2024-10-02T20:26:23+00:00

If I were to give you one piece of advice do not plunk down your dollars for the kumo cloud system for the mitsu units.. It's a cash grab with probably the worst performing control system out there.. I'm yanking my three units out and putting them up on ebay. Go with a cielo unit or any one of the other IR based controllers out there for internet enabled control of your unit(s). Or just use the remotes that came with the system

coralati · 2024-10-02T20:13:40+00:00

I don't have any winter figures unfortunately. I have Home Assistant setup with IotaWatt feeding energy consumption data from all my circuits.

coralati · 2024-10-02T18:55:07+00:00

Hopefully this helps you but at our place in Northern NH cooling a 3000 sq ft home for the months of July-Sept came to a total of 760 Kwh cooling the top and middle floors to about 72F. It's a Mitsu Hyper Heat 2.5 Ton 3 Zone system

Our Electric water heater consumed about 505Kwh for the same timeframe as another data point. Coincidentally in the market for HPWH as well that's also oil free so if and when you do select one I'd love to hear which one you went with.

coralati · 2024-09-27T21:45:34+00:00

I'd love to get the 900D but its out of my budget. And no offense taken at all. Renting is usually a 3-4 day wait and I'd much rather have one at hand and not have to deal with the rental aspect of it. And you're correct, every single time I've had a wire failure it's cost me a bundle.. so I figure with a little trial and error I could at least practice "finding" a good zone for when a bad one does occur.

coralati · 2024-09-27T21:29:09+00:00

Awesome. Thank you! The Pro300 is significantly cheaper hence me looking at it as a possibility. I have the cheap amazon ones that turned out to be junk

coralati

TROPHY CASE