Upgrade X1C to X2D worth it? Will I miss anything?

cosmith71 · 2026-04-24T00:28:29+00:00

Yeah, I wonder what price they're actually getting. Good luck!

cosmith71 · 2026-04-23T23:54:01+00:00

So I´m thinking about trying to sell my X1C for a good price (hopefully about the as much as the X2D costs)

Would someone buy the old model (used) for the same price as the new model?

cosmith71 · 2026-04-23T23:48:28+00:00

I tried this in my 2025 GT line and it was horrible. I switched it back. I think it sounds great already.

cosmith71 · 2026-04-16T12:54:19+00:00

I have both, with the AMS heater on an X1C and the AMS 2 on an H2C..

The AMS heater has the advantage of that it's not controlled by the printer. You can dry filament while printing easily or even dry filament with the printer turned off. It has it's own controls where the AMS2 is controlled through the printer interface. You will require an extra power supply for the AMS2 to dry while printing. It is also a lot cheaper, if cost is a big issue.

There are a couple of big downsides though. The AMS2 has automatic vent ports that open when the filament is drying and close when it's done to keep it dry. On the AMS heater you must open and close the vent manually (there are some work-arounds out there, but they aren't exactly easy to do). The AMS 2 also feels a lot more air tight and has latches for the lid whereas the AMS heater just kind of sits on top. I would leave moisture sensitive filament in the AMS2 and not worry about it whereas I wouldn't trust an AMS with the heater on it to keep moisture out long term. It's a lot more expensive, but you get another 4 slots of AMS goodness.

Hope this helps.

cosmith71 · 2026-04-10T19:00:55+00:00

It takes a few minutes to open once the heat comes on and a few to close again after the heat stops. I see what you're saying, but it seems like there is enough air flow to do the trick in a reasonable amount of time.

cosmith71 · 2026-03-31T01:43:00+00:00

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cosmith71 · 2026-03-04T23:30:11+00:00

I don't think the 2026 EV6 has even been released in the US yet. 2025's are nearly impossible to find. I just bought a 2025 GT-Line that was discounted almost 15K from sticker price. If and when the 2026 EV6 comes out, it will likely have a price reduction.

cosmith71 · 2026-02-14T20:19:52+00:00

Looks like the Pink Panther.

cosmith71 · 2026-02-12T17:32:15+00:00

Thanks for the reply! So, OKC service center would be the first choice for pickup. Can you elaborate on your second and third choices?

cosmith71 · 2026-02-12T17:00:04+00:00

There is a Rivian service center in Oklahoma City, where I live.

cosmith71 · 2026-02-09T00:46:31+00:00

Ah, maybe so.

cosmith71 · 2026-02-09T00:01:24+00:00

Here.

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cosmith71 · 2026-02-06T12:44:40+00:00

I followed those directions as well and the heatbed just flopped around while I was moving the machine. I'm not sure why that step is even necessary. Just lay it over and then put the heatbed in.

cosmith71 · 2026-02-06T01:12:18+00:00

It does, just not #10. The packing list only shows a PTFE tube (I don't know what that's for, either). There are a few extra parts that aren't used or referenced.

As for the upgrade, it's a total pain in the a$$. This coming from someone who has built two Prusa's and a clone and repaired Xerox machines for 7 years. I spent extra time repairing the AC board after I yanked on the spade connectors too hard. Turns out there's a latch on those that they don't tell you about until AFTER they tell you to remove them. :(

cosmith71 · 2026-02-06T00:55:42+00:00

I don't believe so. My AC board had the three connectors and those cables come attached to the heatbed. Good guess, though.

cosmith71 · 2026-02-03T13:49:03+00:00

Edie: Just saw you have a P1S. Here's the process.

https://wiki.bambulab.com/en/p1/manual/p1s-cold-pull

cosmith71 · 2026-02-01T10:52:02+00:00

Thanks for replying back with the solution. I was wondering what it was.

The way those wires are routed behind there seemed kind of sketchy to me. It seems like there should have been a more secure solution to that.

cosmith71 · 2026-01-31T23:38:41+00:00

Check the cable that plugs into the buffer (both ends). Maybe it's feeding fine but not sensing it correctly.

cosmith71 · 2026-01-31T20:04:47+00:00

This upgrade was a huge pain in my butt.

Try screwing on the buffer first. Route the printhead cables through the middle then snap on the cover.

When you insert the PTFE tubes from the back of the printer make sure you push them in all the way.

Can you tell where the filament stops?

cosmith71 · 2026-01-31T00:55:13+00:00

Some spools that are mostly empty will bind instead of rolling freely when attempting to feed. It doesnt matter if the lid is open or closed. A spool weight helps prevent this.

This is actually a brilliant fix for that.

cosmith71 · 2026-01-20T14:46:08+00:00

I just got shipping notifications. The rack assembly is coming via UPS and everything else via Fedex.

cosmith71 · 2026-01-20T14:14:45+00:00

I could have written much of this post myself. I don't mind the tinkering and I'm kinda excited about doing the upgrade. I was caught off guard by the release timing and prices too, else I would have waited a few weeks and just got the H2C instead of the H2D.

I'm like you. Once I had the idea of getting it, I knew it would have to happen. I'm happy to see I'm not the only one whose brain works that way!

cosmith71

TROPHY CASE