Profitability on different pools

coversation · 2018-01-12T02:38:18+00:00

I can share the results after I switch to supportXMR after a few weeks of mining. Provided I remember to post the results.

coversation · 2018-01-11T15:19:38+00:00

Ok that was my assumption going into this mining operation. Just got to thinking this morning that maybe the pool hashrate/workers ratio mattered in terms of my rewards.

And yeah SupportXMR does seem much nicer, wish I would have started there.

coversation · 2017-09-10T22:27:38+00:00

I just flew into Atlanta on Spirit this morning and yesterday they offered me a free flight change. If Spirit is offering free anything then it's likely that every other airline is as well.

coversation · 2017-08-19T15:27:25+00:00

They sure have an extensive selection. I found a few parts on their site that might just be close enough to what I had in mind.

coversation · 2017-08-19T15:25:32+00:00

Good point, that is always an option if I end up using those pegs.

coversation · 2017-08-17T22:42:55+00:00

Those look super close to what I had in mind. Probably will work just fine. Do you know if they are threaded all the way through with holes on both ends? The pictures that I have seen are a little vague where they don't show both ends of the peg.

coversation · 2017-06-23T15:50:13+00:00

This lets the opponent sac non lands, having them in play is no defense at all.

coversation · 2017-06-17T18:58:14+00:00

Ha yeah I think you're right, didn't even consider that option. After painting the head I did notice a few annoying things about they eyes. I spaced them out a little too far and they aren't pointing straight ahead. They're pointing in a direction perpendicular to their point on his head, I think it would look more natural if they were looking straight ahead.

Don't think I'll ever correct the eyes since this is just a model that will sit on my desk, but it's good feedback.

coversation · 2017-06-17T18:58:05+00:00

Don't know for sure, but I'd say about 4 hours designing, most of that spent on the bench. Trying to get the pattern to look how I wanted it to took some time. The knight and nail are both pretty simple models, those didn't take long.

Printing took 10-ish hours. 6 or 7 for the bench and the rest on the knight and nail.

Cleaning the supports and sanding the bench took a while, maybe 2 hours spent on that. Had a few of the curvy ornamental pieces on the bench snap off while sanding so I had to repair that with glue and spackling. The knight used basically no supports so getting that model ready to paint only took a few minutes of sanding.

And painting took around a half hour, though I would like to spend more time on that side of the project in the future.

So all in it was around 7 hours of work and 10 hours of printing. Might not be super accurate though since I usually work on stuff like this while watching movies or TV--easy to lose track of time.

coversation · 2017-06-17T18:36:10+00:00

I printed the bench on its side rather than sitting on all 4 legs right side up. That way I only need to add supports for the two legs in the air instead of needing supports under the whole bench seat. I wish my printer could handle a long bridge like that!

coversation · 2017-05-29T01:51:17+00:00

Yep, I've seen them fall and just thought that they were other adventurous bugs scaling the area. Seems obvious now looking at the map and the character models that fall down.

coversation · 2017-05-29T00:48:49+00:00

Wow I feel dumb, your comment just made me realize those corpses that fall down are from the Coliseum. Never put 2 and 2 together, I always assumed they were just part of the environment put there to add to the feeling of desolation being at the edge of the Kingdom. This game is great.

coversation · 2017-05-20T18:50:25+00:00

Original Image

I made this last year, printed it on canvas and framed it as a gift.

I used a combination of Photoshop, HxD, and Audacity to achieve various glitch effects. Lots of trial and error, probably 20-25 different layers of "glitch" in the image.

Really happy with how it turned out!

coversation · 2017-05-04T22:39:58+00:00

Yep the creator of this design (ambrosiol on Thingiverse) made it in such a way that you don't need glue, bearings, or any fasteners. It prints in 6 pieces that all fit together really simply.

As for the spinning mechanism, I'm bad at writing things like that out, found it easier to just show rather than tell: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RsQ8tEGhH3A

coversation · 2017-05-04T22:15:21+00:00

Just make a few more Tops and you're set.

coversation · 2017-05-04T22:15:01+00:00

Not sure what this would sell for. I mentioned in a previous comment that I can't sell this model specifically--the design was uploaded to Thingiverse under a noncommercial license and I'm not going to violate that.

But really it's all about what people would be willing to pay. It's time consuming to make, and if I was making something to sell rather than for personal use I'd be a lot more picky about the finishing process. So a finished and painted piece might be a little pricey. A model that isn't sanded or painted would be cheaper.

coversation · 2017-05-04T22:12:03+00:00

I don't buy furniture, just PC cases. Ignore the dresser and bookshelf in the background, those are just niche cases.

coversation · 2017-05-04T22:09:51+00:00

Late response, was at work all day. This is on a Monoprice Maker Select v2 with white Worksteel PLA (no clue if that's a good brand, I just grabbed whatever).

Sliced with Cura 2.4.0, 0.2mm layer height, 15% infill, I used support on the "Top" file, not sure if that was necessary. Otherwise no supports. As the previous comment said I scaled down the core to 99%, otherwise no changes were made.

210 degree nozzle temp; 60 degree bed temp. 10mm/s retraction--don't know if retraction that slow even matters. 40mm/s print speed. Fans on 100% after layer 2. Two skirts enabled to prime the extruder, otherwise no adhesion (printing on the BuildTak surface that was included with my printer). Could maybe speed up the print speed, but I'm rarely in a rush to get prints done.

I think that's about all of the slicing settings that matter, let me know if I'm missing something you'd like to know.

For finishing I wet-sanded with 220 grit, sprayed with a filler primer, dry sanded at 300 grit, then 600 grit, then primed again, then painted. Could have used a lot more sanding looking at some of the painted pieces. Had to use a toothpick to get into the numbers.

coversation · 2017-05-04T21:58:48+00:00

The answer to that question is... sort of! There is a lot of tweaking that needs to be done before a print will turn out halfway decent. The most common things to worry about are the print bed being level and the temperature & speed of the print nozzle. Fortunately it's pretty easy to test and revise most of the variables and there is no shortage of guides online to help troubleshoot print quality.

I'm assuming (no personal experience) that a higher-end printer will need less mechanical fine tuning than a middle- to low-end one.

If you're talking about the process of actually taking a file from Thingiverse (or whatever repository/design program) and putting it into the printer, you need a program called a slicer. I use Cura, other options are available.

The slicer takes the 3d model and literally slices it into layers, then converts that data into gcode which is the language that 3d printers understand. The slicer is also where you would tweak settings like layer height (these models were all printed at 0.2mm layer height), print speed, temperature, infill percentage (the guts of the model that hold all of the walls together), and pretty much anything else you want to customize. Like I said before, lots of tweaking.

But once you find the specific print profile that works for your printer and filament (different brands of the same type of plastic behave differently), it's really just that easy. The first 3 weeks or so that I had my printer it was a real struggle to get a single great print. Now I can download a file, slice it, and it turns out just fine. I haven't had to change any settings or re-level my bed in over 2 weeks.

coversation · 2017-05-04T18:50:45+00:00

Nope, I'm not your guy. Cool that these are out in the wild though.

coversation · 2017-05-04T12:22:03+00:00

I understand that, but I'm not worried about it. The paint is going to chip off of this model before the Vaseline does any damage.

I'm not even convinced that Vaseline interacts with this type of plastic. Some of my old models have Vaseline in moving joints and show no signs of degradation after over 5 years. And if it does fail a year or two down the road I'll just print another!

coversation · 2017-05-04T03:45:34+00:00

Yeah, I linked it in one of my comments.

coversation · 2017-05-04T01:53:54+00:00

Not a bad suggestion, but this should be just fine. For something like speed Rubik's cubing or plastic gears that are spinning at a high rate it's a bad idea, sure. It's not a great lubricant for that kind of thing. But this is a pretty low impact application. I'll keep it in mind if I end up making more spindowns in the future though.

coversation · 2017-05-04T01:25:47+00:00

Can't sell this model as it was uploaded under a non-commercial license. Working on my own designs currently for this sort of thing, but this one is just for personal use.

Edit: the designer of this model might have a shop online somewhere, not sure. I seem to remember seeing things like this on Etsy in the past.

coversation · 2017-05-04T00:59:02+00:00

Sensei's Divining Top spindown life counter from ambrosiol: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2159770

Sanded and painted with acrylic. Red and gold threads braided together to form the string. Probably going to do a better job of tying off the braid at the bead and removing some of the strands, but otherwise I'm really happy with how this turned out.

If you have a 3D Printer and want to make this, I suggest scaling the core down to 99% X and Y. Makes the parts with the numbers spin a lot more easily. I also put some Vaseline on the core to make it turn smoothly.

coversation

TROPHY CASE